This is just one of some 80 files about machining and metalworking and useful workshop subjects that can be read at: http://www.janellestudio.com/metal/index.html ------------------------------------------------------------------ This file has many user tips for converting Taig accessories to Sherline machines, and vice versa. Sometimes the adaptation is simple, sometimes a bit more complex. In any case, when you have a new need with one of these brands, it is very worthwhile to see if there is a solution in the other's accessory line. If the other's part cannot be directly adapted, perhaps the basic idea can be adopted/adapted to make something that will work for your machine. Or maybe there is an idea on a totally different brand. Look in some of the other files here and on commercial and private members' sites. The machining world is full of extremely complex gadgets invented by home shop machinists, perhaps designed to be as difficult to make as possible, all the better to impress other machinists -- and judges at exhibitions. There is usually a simpler, and perhaps better, or at least less expensive, way. Research and think. For example, one brand has rather expensive metal tooling plates to mount on the milling machine table; they help to hold down the item, and also protect the mill table from damage should your cutter or drill bit go too far. Many projects can get by with a piece of MDF secured to the mill table. It is flat enough for most work; it can be drilled, and screwed and glued or whatever it takes to safely secure the work. If you are producing multiples, such an MDF piece can be made into a precision jig to instantly align materials or parts and greatly speed up production. If you got to this file directly from my HOME PAGE, return there by using your browser's back button. 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(c) Copyright 2003 - 2015 Machining and Metalworking at Home The form of the collected work in this text file (including editing, additions, and notes) is copyrighted and this file is not to be reproduced by any means, including electronic, without written permission except for strictly personal use. ===================================================================== From: Dave Martindale Date: Thu Oct 26, 2000 4:54pm Subject: Taig arbors Another question: Do the Taig blank arbors fit on the Sherline spindle as-is, or do they need to be altered? Both Taig and Sherline use the same spindle nose thread, but the amount the thread projects beyond the seating face on the spindle is different for the two lathes. From reading other people's comments (not personal experience), it seems that mounting a Taig chuck on a Sherline spindle requires boring a recess in the back of the chuck, while mounting a Sherline chuck on a Taig spindle requires adding a spacer between the chuck and the seating face on the Taig spindle. So, are similar adaptations needed when using Taig blank arbors? Dave [Note: no on-topic reply ever made, but answers are in other posts] ------- From: Randy Gordon-Gilmore Date: Tue Nov 7, 2000 5:07pm Subject: Taig arbor blanks -> Sherline endmill holders Based on the posts from a couple of weeks ago, I ordered 10 arbor blanks from Taig. They came last night, and I'm now in process of converting them to endmill holders for my 5400 mill. The stock Sherline endmill holder is 1.2" long, with a .5" deep "socket" of 3/4-16 threads, relieved at the base of the socket. The Taig arbor blank is 2.0" long. It is tapdrilled about 1", with about .7" of 3/4-16 threads that run out (i.e. no thread relief.) There is a .2" long thread relief at the entrance to the socket. The Sherline spindle nose is about .31" long to the shoulder. I don't want the endmill holder protruding any more from the spindle end than necessary. I figured that I could safely face off .38" from the socket end. I've done so, and if any of the pieces don't seat firmly on the spindle shoulder I'll go in and relieve the base of the threads a little. I've also drilled through 5 of them to 5/16 diameter as a pilot hole before boring them to size. The other 5 I'm leaving alone for now, in case I want to make holders for smaller mills one of these days. But the project looks promising so far. The steel does cut really well also. Best regards, Randy ------- Date: Wed Nov 8, 2000 1:20am Subject: Re: Taig arbor blanks, and question At 02:07 PM 11/7/00 -0800, I wrote: >than necessary. I figured that I could safely face off .38" from the >socket end. I've done so, and if any of the pieces don't seat firmly on >the spindle shoulder I'll go in and relieve the base of the threads a >little. Late breaking news! .375" is too much to face off! The blanks fail to seat by about .050". (I did the facing at work during lunch on our big Clausing lathe, and didn't have my spindle with me. Oh well...) To avoid relieving the threads you should face off between .20" and .30" (I'd still recommend facing off at least the "end" thread relief to get full thread engagement on the spindle) To bore the blanks on the mill spindle, I will put the mill headstock on my Sherline lathe. For boring the blanks, I think I need to indicate the spindle axis to be parallel to the carriage travel. I have a Starrett Last Word indicator, but am unsure where to use it. I don't think that I can count on the spindle bore to be true... Is there a "best" way to indicate the raw spindle? Best regards, Randy ------- From: Thomas Gilmour Date: Thu Nov 9, 2000 1:15am Subject: Re: Re: Taig arbor blanks, and question Randy: If you intend to use the arbors on the mill then the easiest and most accurate boring should be done on the mill. Why not start by drilling out as much excess material as you can on the lathe. Then, assuming you have a boring tool, mount the headstock back on the mill and mount the boring tool on the table. Bore to the finished diameter by lowering the headstock onto the tool. This would assure that the hole is concentric and on axis with the mill head, at least at the time it was cut, given the headstock alignment design. Tom ------- From: Randy Gordon-Gilmore Date: Thu Nov 9, 2000 1:49am Subject: Re: Taig arbor blanks, and question At 01:15 AM 11/9/00 -0500, Tom wrote: >If you intend to use the arbors on the mill then the easiest and most >accurate boring should be done on the mill. >Why not start by drilling out as much Thanks for your reply, Tom. I do already have the arbors drilled out .312 dia in preparation for boring to .375. But as long as the arbors are on the mill spindle and it is turning in its own bearings, I thought that it doesn't matter whether the headstock is on the lathe bed or the mill column. The mill is totally disassembled from my modifying it for the head counterbalance springs and stepper mounts, and I figured I'd work on the holders-to-be while waiting for all the CNC stuff to arrive. I've got Dan Mauch's 2A board and three Sherline 110/134 oz-in motors and mount kit and a 24V, 8A power supply (switcher) from Marlin P. Jones ( http://www.mpja.com ) on order. On the mill, I'll need to indicate the column vertical with respect to the table, and the spindle axis (i.e. headstock alignment) to the column. On the lathe, I only need to indicate the headstock alignment parallel with the carriage motion. But it's the aligning the spindle itself that is puzzling me. I definitely want to be more accurate than the default "keyed" alignment, since any runout will affect the accuracy of the cuts I make with the holder later. I'm trying to think what would make the stiffest boring bar. I'm thinking about making a .312 diameter "D" type bit (the "D" section being short and then the full diameter behind it) and relieving the whole OD a little behind the cutting edge. That should be stiffer than a regular-type boring bar, and the most metal I can fit in the hole as I bore it. Do you have any ideas about that? Best regards, Randy ------- From: Thomas Gilmour Date: Thu Nov 9, 2000 2:53am Subject: Re: Re: Taig arbor blanks, and question Randy: Since the Sherline uses a key for alignment I would think that there is always a certain amount of uncertainty about the alignment. Unless you tram the head before every cut! Even then, how do you know if the head hasn't twisted during a cut. I was assuming that the headstock on the mill was trammed. My thinking was that this play in the head is always a possibilty, but by mounting the headstock on the lathe adds even more misalignment possibility relative to the mill. I agree that the spindle needs to be parallel to the ways in the horizontal plane, but it also needs to be parallel in the vertical plane. This two axis alignment is just much easier on the mill. I'm not sure how to accomplish this on the lathe with the same ease. A "D" bit sounds like a good idea for boring but I'm no expert in this area. Sorry I can't offer more, maybe something will come to me. Tom ------- From: Date: Thu Nov 9, 2000 6:50pm Subject: Re: Re: Taig arbor blanks, and question Thomas Gilmour, and Randy, Sherlines' newer machines use a GROUND key and they really try to get this right. If you "Pull" the "head" (towards the hex key) as you tighten, you will be "pretty" close. Hope this helps. Ballendo ------- Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:35:15 -0500 From: "Carol & Jerry Jankura" Subject: Motorized feed for Lathe Folks: Yesterday, I made an adapter to interface a Black&Decker electric screwdriver to the Sherline lathe leadscrew. My machine has the threading attachment and has the "Sliding Shaft", "Fixed Shaft," and "Engagement Lever" (with O-Ring) installed. The adapter is made from aluminum rod. One end is a 1/4 inch stud to fit the socket on the screwdriver; the other end is a 3/8 inch hole with a small slot milled out to accommodate the pin in the "Sliding Shaft." It works like a charm. The screwdriver turns at 180 RPM, which should translate to a 9 inch/minute rate on the Sherline. This is somewhat faster than the power feed that Sherline sells. It may be too fast for some of the steels, but seemed to work quite well on the aluminum rod I tried yesterday. I'll probably try to see how the screwdriver can be clamped to the lathe mounting base. Advantages to the screwdriver that I see are: 1. It's lower cost than the Sherline power feed 2. I can drive the leadscrew in either direction, the Sherline power feed is unidirectional 3. If I ever decide to add CNC, the screwdriver reverts to being a screwdriver instead of a leadscrew driver. Disadvantages or differences that I see are: 1. I don't know anything about battery charge life (How many times will I be recharging the batteries) - Maybe I should build a power supply for it. 2. I don't know how the difference in feed rates will affect the unit. This may turn out to be a PITA. Maybe a variable voltage supply will allow me to vary the speed. Jerry Jankura Strongsville, Ohio ------- Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2001 23:33:04 -0800 From: Dave Martindale Subject: Re: Taig Accessories At 23:15 26/02/01 -0500, you wrote: >Has anyone used the Taig #1030 Chuck with the Sherline lathes? It has a 3.25 >inch diameter vs the 3.125 for the Sherline. It's also priced at about half >that of the Sherline chuck. If I remember correctly from previous discussions, there is a problem. The threaded portion of the Taig spindle is longer than the Sherline, or more precisely the "shoulder" on the spindle that the chuck seats on is further from the spindle end on the Taig than it is on the Sherline. The Taig chuck thus expects the spindle end to thread further into the rear of the chuck, and in fact the hole apparently doesn't even have threads all the way to the rear surface; the threads are further inside. So if you put an unmodified Taig chuck on a Sherline, either the spindle threads don't engage the chuck threads at all, or they don't engage enough turns. The fix is to bore a recess into the back of the Taig chuck, deep enough to make it mount solidly on the Sherline spindle. I assume that this needs to be bored fairly carefully, since the bottom of the recess becomes the surface that aligns the chuck on the spindle. Going in the other direction, a Sherline chuck on a Taig needs a spacer between the rear of the chuck and the shoulder on the spindle. Dave ------- Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 09:15:39 -0800 From: "Nicholas Carter and Felice Luftschein" Subject: Re: So Many Questions..So Little Time [sherling group] > Are the "T" slots on a Taig the same as Sherline? No, The t-slots on the Taig lathe use #10 square nuts (larger than Sherline nuts) and the mill uses 1/2" wide nuts. http://www.casco.net/~felice ------- Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2001 09:37:09 -0800 From: Randy Gordon-Gilmore Subject: T-nuts, was Re: So Many Questions.. > No, The t-slots on the Taig lathe use #10 square nuts (larger than > Sherline There is a critical difference between the Taig and Sherline t-slot nuts. The Taig is a plain square nut. It is less than 1/8" thick, which means that is the difference between not even engaging the nut, and running the screw down against the table. If you make your own accessories, you need to take this into account, or plan on grinding screws down to this window of length. I didn't do the former, and ended up doing the latter on the batch of toolposts I made. One of these days I'll go back and counterbore them all to a "proper" depth so I can use stock screws. The Sherline t-nuts have a long threaded shank on them. This gives a much wider tolerance for the height stackup of whatever tooling you're making. Best regards, Randy ------- Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2001 10:16:24 -0600 From: "John Shadle" Subject: Adapting Sherline chucks to Taig I made the behind-the-chuck Sherline spacer by chucking a large nut in the Taig 3-jaw, then bored out the inside to 3/4" with a boring tool. It's important that the faces on the spacer are trued exactly parallel, or the chuck won't run true. To this, I chucked a piece of 1" aluminum in the Taig 4-jaw and turned a spigot on it, just exactly the size of the inside of the spacing washer. I trued one side of the spacer, then turned it over and trued the other side. You can repeat this operation several times, and the result will be a spacer with parallel sides. If the washer wants to turn on the spigot on the 1" square aluminum, you can secure it with super glue (one of the best "clamps" around). John B. Shadle, CMC Online Clockbuilding: http://geocities.com/jshadle.geo/online_clock_building http://geocities.com/jshadle.geo/ -------- NOTE TO FILE: The use of a Sherline chuck on a Taig spindle requires a spacer with parallel surfaces to ensure squareness of the chuck mounting. John Schadle writes about one method to make a spacer on 2 Jun 2001 here. Jerry Kieffer describes a similar process on 29 Oct 2004 in a thread. Don Rogers has a slightly different method reported on 29 Oct 2004. Others have just taken a Taig arbor blank and machined off the forward portion to make a threaded spacer. ------- Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2001 00:12:09 -0400 From: "Carol & Jerry Jankura" Subject: RE: Mill tooling [ADVANTAGE OF USING SOME OF THE VERY CHEAP TAIG ACCESSORIES ON THE SHERLINE -- IN THIS CASE THE ARBOR BLANKS] Daniel: It's not a $2 difference, the actual price is about $2.00 - $3.00 per unit. If it were only a $2 difference, I'd also stick with Sherline. But, Sherline's and Taig's are not the SAME items. Sherline's costs more and fits into the headstock taper. Taig's screws onto the headstock thread. I think that it would be difficult to make a 1/2 inch diameter shank holder from the Sherline offering while it's duck soup with the Taig offering. Just remove the excess material from the threaded end, screw the arbor onto the headstock, drill the opposing end slightly under the required size (This would use the horizontal boring bar that comes with the Sherline lathe tool set) and use a reamer to enlarge it to size. Then, take the arbor off of the lathe headstock and move it over to the mill. Mount it on the table using a V-Block or the vise. Drill the arbor for a 10-32 thread and tap that hole for a set-screw. Once that's done, you're in business. And, yes, I also agree that Sherline treats their customers quite well. Both they, and Shopsmith, are good places to deal with. Carol & Jerry Jankura Strongsville, Ohio ------- Date: Sun, 21 Oct 2001 14:20:00 -0700 From: "David Goodfellow" Subject: Using 3/8" shank cutters with the Taig mill When I bought my Taig mill I somehow got the idea I could use my 3/8" shank milling cutters with it, but found on delivery Taig's collet system is limited to 5/16" maximum. On advice from others I tried to make a 3/8" collet from a blank, but found there wasn't enough meat left to do the job. Then when going through my Sherline stuff which will soon be up for sale, I found a 3/8" end mill holder. Tried it on the Taig and it was a perfect fit. For those interested, it is Part Number 3079, '3/8" End Mill Holder,' and is listed at Sherline.com. Dave Goodfellow Northridge, CA ------- Date: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 17:39:55 +0000 From: Tony Jeffree Subject: Re: Sherline Motor/Speed Control on Taig Mill At 09:09 03/12/2001 -0800, you wrote: >I'm considering replacing the Taig motor/belt change system on my CNC mill >with a Sherline motor/speed control. I understand others have done this, >and would appreciate comments. Some things I would like to know: >1. Overall appraisal. Are you happy with the result? Very. Works extremely well - I still use the Taig pulley set, & the 3rd slowest speed gives dead slow to 5000 RPM - this is mostly the only setting I use. The fastest pulley setting will give 14,000 RPM - more than the headstock bearings can stand. >2. What issues need to be resolved for successful conversion, like -- > -- motor mounts -- belt -- pulleys The Taig mounting plate needs re-drilling to suit the Sherline mounting centres, but this is trivial. The motor rotates the right way to mount in that position, so it is a straight swap. The Sherline motor turns out to be lighter in weight than the Taig one (at least, lighter than the one I had on my mill, which was an early version), so less strain on the Z axis motor. >Are there viable alternatives to the Sherline motor/speed control? I have >heard about treadmill motors. Are these overkill for the little Taig? Has >anyone tried this route? There are other controllers/motors around - I have a similar (not Sherline, but the same make of controller that Sherline uses) on my lathe. The Sherline motor/controller is more neatly packaged though. No personal experience with the treadmill motors, but I'm sure others can help you there :-) >Any other alternatives? 3 phase motor & VFD would be a feasible alternative - and probably would cost about the same as the Sherline kit (~ $175). However, you would have to work out the detail & wiring yourself (not difficult if you are moderately electronics literate - but tricky if you are not!) For me, $175 & minimal hassle makes the Sherline motor a no brainer. Regards, Tony ------- Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 22:09:53 -0000 From: "jamesbknighton" Subject: Re: Link wanted [HERE SHERLINE MOTOR ON TAIG] --- In sherlinex~xxy..., "David Goodfellow" wrote: > I had to drill two new holes in the Taig mounting plate to align with the > 8-32 (I think) mounting holes of the Sherline motor. Discarded the belt > guard. Since the belt guard is used to attach the speed control, I > have to come up with another method to do that. David, I relocated the control box on my Sherline lathe to a vertical position to the left of the motor. For a mount, I machined a block of aluminum to fit inside the guard and then bolted the riser to my base. Sorry, no pics available for now. Instead of "guarding" the pulley/belt assembly, that piece of plastic now holds the control box on the aforementioned vertical riser (press fit only, that's all that's needed here). Looks good, too. No mods necessary to any Sherline parts, and the whole thing can be readily put back into their factory original position. I hope this helps, Jim ------- Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 10:36:41 -0500 From: Stan Stocker Subject: Re: 1/2" end mill adapter [USING TAIG BLANK ARBOR] Al: Mount the arbor on the quill. Hold a center drill vertically in the vise. Locate the drill on the center of the arbor. Lock the table in both axis. Enlarge to a bit less than final hole size by step drilling. Once almost to size, either ream or finish to size with a boring tool held in the vise. If boring, set the tool with the tip dead on the X or Y axis. Unlock only that axis and move the table to control the boring tool depth of cut. Cross drill and tap for set screw, deburr the inside of the set screw hole - a length of drill rod with the end cut to a sharp 20 degree tip as in a paternmakers reamer makes this easy, or a ball stone or burr on a dremel tool does the job nicely. Nice thing about this approach is that you are sure the bore in the arbor is dead on the quill centerline. Stan ------- Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2002 10:46:13 -0500 From: Stan Stocker Subject: Re: 1/2" end mill adapter After hitting send I realized I hadn't mentioned an important detail about making end mill holders on the mill. Either mill flats or drill tommy bar holes before mounting the arbor to poke the hole for the end mill. If you don't, getting the arbor off may be a real pain, requiring vise grips or channel locks. No sense in burring up the outside of the arbor :-) Sorry to have missed this, I'm used to working with R8 tooling on mills rather than thread on spindles. Stan ------- Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 12:30:34 -0600 From: "Bad Brad" Subject: Re: Those little cranks >From: wmbrady >Reply-To: taigtoolsx~xxyahoogroups.com >Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2002 18:55:43 -0500 >Is anyone making (selling) replacement cranks for the slides? I have been >doing some milling and boy are they a pain after an hour or so, being too >small. I have been learning the gibs, so to speak. >Wm. "Bill" Brady, Harwood MD Mr Brady, I added Sherline handwheels to my Taig lathe, check out the picture section of Nick Carter's Taig Lathe Pages. It was easy to turn adapter shafts and the resetable scales are very handy. Forrest ------- Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 20:46:29 -0800 From: "Carol & Jerry Jankura" Subject: RE: Those little cranks Bill: You should be able to order them from Sherline or any of their dealers. Check out www.sherline.com for more info. Sherline's part numbers and list prices are: 3420(3430 = metric) 2" handwheel $35.00 3440(3450 = metric) 2 1/2" handwheel $40.00 Hope this helps Carol & Jerry Jankura ------- Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 16:25:58 -0500 (CDT) From: Tom Benedict Subject: Re: Taig 3 1/4" four jaw chuck On Tue, 16 Jul 2002, tburns wrote: > Thanks Tom. That seems like something that would work. > If anyone has mounted one of these on a rotary table, what > sort of adapter did you use? The Sherline rotary table comes with something that'll use the 3/4"-16 thread to mount it to the table. BUT (the big but) you still need something to keep it from spinning off if your cutter would tend to push it CCW. Unfortunately there's no lip or groove to grip it with strap clamps. You could use strap clamps against the face of the chuck, provided that didn't poke up so high that they would interfere with your workpiece. Say, you're taking about the 4-jaw independent chuck, right? I'm pretty sure the scroll chuck has a different back. But the back looks a lot like the 3-jaw from the pictures I've seen. Tom ------- Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 14:32:16 -0700 From: "Nicholas Carter and Felice Luftschein" Subject: Re: Taig 3 1/4" four jaw chuck Taig sells an adapter, but you do have to worry about rotation as Tom says. You could easily mill pockets or a groove in the chuck body to allow clamping, or drill holes throught the face for bolts. http://www.cartertools.com/nfhome.html ------- Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 22:06:18 -0500 From: "jwalters" Subject: Re: Taig 3 1/4" four jaw chuck I have mounted a 3 1/4" Bison 3 jaw chuck to my Sherline rotary table using a simple adapter made from 4" round aluminum. A short pilot is turned to mount the chuck, flat head screws are used to attach the chuck to the adapter and socket head cap screws and t-nuts are used to attach the adapter to the rotary table. The chuck is now dialed into the rotary table and clamped down. This is a very solid setup that works very well. The adapter is easy to remove should I need the table for an alternate use. John Walters ------- Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2002 22:24:06 -0500 From: tburns Subject: Re: Taig 3 1/4" four jaw chuck John, That is about what I have planned for my 3" 3 jaw chuck. It will be a 4 inch long piece of 1/4 x 3" aluminum plate, leaving room at two ends for slots or holes for attaching to t nuts. I'm undecided about whether to try to work a pilot into the design. I believe if I get a good close fit with the three screws they should hold the chuck in position OK. I may change my mind though, and bolt a pilot to the center of the adapter. I really like the idea of bolting the 4 jaw straight through the chuck into t-nuts in the rotary table slots. Wish a 3 jaw could be mounted so easily. Troy ------- Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2002 19:05:35 -0000 From: "troy2burns" Subject: Re: Taig 3 1/4" four jaw chuck I got around to mounting both the 3 jaw and the independent 4 jaw chuck to the rotary table yesterday. I screwed both chucks directly to the table (not at the same time, of course). The 3 jaw chuck required drilling a 3/16" hole through one of the 6mm threaded mounting holes to the face of the chuck, and another 3/16" hole opposite the first hole. Both these holes are outside of the scroll. The 4 jaw chuck has 4 threaded mounting holes, so it was no problem to drill two of those holes out to the face of the chuck. I also made a pilot for both chucks, with one end turned to .270", a snug fit in the rotary table's hole, and the other end turned to a snug fit to the hole through the chuck. The chucks are bolted to t-nuts in the table slots with two 10-24 screws. The 4" rotary table is one that Harbor Freight advertises for $99 and sells for $79, and is a better quality piece of equipment than I was expecting when I ordered it. It makes for a handy and inexpensive piece of gear. Troy ------- Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2003 06:13:22 -0800 From: Mark Subject: Taig vs Sherline 4-jaw chucks I bought a Taig 4-jaw (because it was local - Lee Valley Tools) and the price seemed right. Did a lot of deburring and stoning and scotchbriting - was really disappointed with the finish - ok after the work. As suggested earlier, I have a piece of 1-inch drillrod that has been faced off, mounted it in my larger lathe's 4-jaw, dialed it in for no wobble, mounted the Taig 4-jaw on the other end, dialed in the body (assuming it was generally concentric with the spindle threads) and undercut the body to allow the Sherline spindle shoulder to go further into the chuck, thus engaging more threads. Works fine for me. mark ------- Date: Sun, 02 Feb 2003 14:58:37 -0000 From: "n2562001 " Subject: Re: 4 jaw chucks Dan: I have a couple of Taig chucks that have been fit to my Sherline spindle that I use for special purposes. They seem to be a fair value for what I paid for them. However my Sherline Chucks have a superior fit ,finish and the most important thing to me repeatability in both movement of the jaws and transfer from machine to accessory. For me the additional cost is more than worth it. Jerry Kieffer ------- Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2003 12:04:41 -0600 From: "Daniel Kaschner" Subject: RE: Re: 4 jaw chucks Thanks to everyone that replied on this one, it really helped me, especially on a few points I was not aware. Based on the input I received here I think I will be going with the Sherline, not because of any lack of quality with the Taig chuck, but mostly due to my confidence in my machining capabilities. Making attachments for the mill and lathe is fun, but there are a few tools I don't care to tackle quite yet. they seem to be the basics for me. chucks and collets fall in that group. I feel better about using them straight from the box with good performance, and the consensus seems to be that the Taig needs modification to engage enough threads to work properly with the Sherline. I have always been happy with Sherline fit, finish, and performance and am willing to pay for it when it makes sense. ------- Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2003 15:01:18 -0600 From: "Don Feinberg" Subject: Successful toolmaking report! Folks, this post refers to a thread that was discussed here some time ago -- that is: how do you use endmills larger than 1/4 on a Taig mill? I solved part of the problem by purchasing the Sherline 3/8" collet, which screws right on to the Taig's shaft. However, I did want to get to 1/2". I finally got up the energy to try to make one, starting with one of the Taig "blanks". **Success**! And it wasn't really all that hard to do! I progressively drilled out the blank to about 15/32", using regular drills (on the lathe). I did not attempt to ream the hole. Instead, I bored it out on the lathe, a little at a time. And towards the end, I really mean I bored it out **A LITTLE** at a time -- that is, I just breathed a little bit on the cross slide each time. I didn't even think about turning the dial :-) :-) !!! My last cuts were each way less than a thou... In the end, I got some 0.5000" tools to fit in the new collet just perfectly snd smoothly. The result seems easily as accurate as the Sherline collet. I think that the real trick here was not in the boring. It was in taking a fair amount of time to get the blank centered in the lathe's chuck. I found it very easy to have it running pretty coaxial "by eye", but to be in fact more than 0.001" off concentric, which would have ruined the result altogether. I had to set the clock up on the lathe and get the blank "just so" in the chuck... By the way -- I found the Taig plenty strong enough for reasonable cuts with a 1/2-inch 2-flute "high clearance / high angle" (aluminum cutting) end mill on regular 6061, even climbing. I haven't tried steel, but I'll be pretty conservative with that... Don Feinberg ------- Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 05:35:45 -0500 From: "John Guenther" Subject: RE: Help Needed > From: J. DeLancier [mailto:jojox~xxipa.net] > Subject: [taigtools] Help Needed > A buddy of mine needs help with the following. If anyone could > help, I'd appreciate it. > "Does anyone know of a MT #1 or 3/4-16 adapter to use the ER > collet system on a Sherline. I have searched high and low and can not > find one. Does anyone know where one can be found?" Thanks! I don't know of any, but it certainly would not be hard to make one. You can buy the closer nut from J&L, MSC, Travers and others and just machine up the adapter on the Sherline. I made one for my 7x12 lathe, it is really just a simple machining operation, a little threading and boring and you are there, all on the lathe. John Guenther 'Ye Olde Pen Maker' Sterling, Virginia ------- Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 10:37:30 -0800 From: "Nicholas Carter and Felice Luftschein" Subject: Re: Help Needed Sherline makes an "industrial" headstock that uses ER collets, but it is different from the regular mill/lathe headstock. http://www.cartertools.com/nfhome.html ------- Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 04:26:31 -0000 From: "dqrwagoner" Subject: Upload of aTaig Collet Adapter For the Sherline Lathe Not too long ago I read a message of someone asking about the Taig collet set. The set will not work as is because of the 15 degree taper of the collets. So, already having the Taig blank arbors, I ordered a set of the collets (~$30US) and made this simple adapter. The result is in the photo section as "Taig Collet Adapter". The collets are not as well made as the Sherline set, but for the money and for my purposes they do just fine. I hope it is of help to someone. Best Regards Dave Wagoner ------- Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2003 06:55:57 -0000 From: "Jim Knighton" Subject: Re: HELP, need drive-belt for mill and taig Scott is on target. You should be able to take your existing belt (even if it is broken or worn out) to a sewing machine repair shop and get a close match for size and profile. I've been this route myself and used for a while what the Sewing Center called "cotton belts." I don't know where the "cotton" is - they look like translucent yellow urethane belting to me, but there are some visible reinforcement strands molded in. Be warned, however, these belts absolutely do not like to be "too tight". The folks at the Sewing Center made a point of this. In spite of the warning and my deliberate care regarding tension I couldn't get one to last more than a few weeks of heavy use. These belts are relatively inexpensive, but given their short life I definitely wasn't a happy camper. If you can find an outlet, Singer (sewing machines) makes a much stronger belt that looks rather like an automobile fan belt - the same kind of color, composition, and construction. It's just much smaller. I'm using one of these at the moment and it has proven to be entirely satisfactory. I use a non-standard length, so I don't have a part number that matches the Sherline part. Another alternative you might consider is round urethane belting. You can probably get it from a local industrial supplier. I got mine from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). They have on-line ordering but I don't know about shipping overseas. This stuff is sold in bulk, and I think the minimum order is 10 feet. You cut it to length and use special metal connectors to join the ends. I've tried this stuff (3/16") and for the most part found it superior to the "cotton" sewing machine belts. It also wore quickly but lasted considerably longer than the sewing machine belts - its round profile isn't altogether happy with the "V" shape of the pulleys. Still, I got a few months use out of them before they finally failed. I keep a few feet of this stuff on hand for emergencies but I don't recommend it as a permanent fix. Its bright yellow color is downright garish and something of an eyesore in the shop, but it sure beats having an unusable lathe. Regards, Jim Knighton ------- Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 10:47:41 -0600 From: "Tim Goldstein" Subject: RE: Drive Belts Just measured the spindle diameter on the Taig and on a Sherline. Didn't have a great pair of calipers handy so these are close, but not exact. Taig spindle is .625" OD on the pulley mount and the Sherline is .560" OD. So, you can use the Sherline pulley if you bore it out. My reason for suggesting the Sherline pulley and belt instead of the Taig is that I had a lot of slippage problem with the Taig belt when turning or drilling some larger stuff. Never had the same problem on my Sherline lathe. Also, if you want to use the Taig pulleys you have to not use the Sherline belt guard, which is what the speed control mounts to, and cobble up a motor mount using something other than the face mounting holes are used by Sherline as the pulley will not fit the spacing. So, it comes down to a question of do you want a fast and clean looking power upgrade with variable speed or do you want to do a lot of re-engineering. Using the Sherline pulley you could have a clean job by simply boring the spindle pulley and making a simple L bracket that attached downward to the base plate instead of sideways to the headstock. As far as positioning the motor further away than the Sherline belt allows, there is no need to if you position the motor the same way as on a Sherline with it protruding to the left as it is out of the way and doesn't get chips thrown on it. If you want to turn it around and mount it like a Taig motor with the shaft n the left and the tail end on the right you will need to position if further away and you will also have to open the speed control and switch the wiring so the motor turns the other direction. Tim ------- Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 11:12:56 -1000 (HST) From: Tom Benedict Subject: Re: Energizer Bunny and Drive Belts The main reason I'd consider it is that the Sherline lathe and the Taig lathe are both very similar in size. The Sherline motor, pulleys, and belt are all set up to drive a lathe the size of the Sherline. The Taig is almost identical in size, so the same setup should work with very little modification. Tim put it well: You can either look at a project that will involve boring out a single pulley (and yeah, I'd bore the pulley and not turn down the Taig spindle), or you can look at a project that will involve more work and planning. In any case, I'd still get the Sherline pulleys and belt. Even if you wind up hating them, they'll power your lathe long enough to let you use it to make the setup you really want. As an alternative, people with variable speed drives have also used timing belts and pulleys. I haven't heard anything negative about that kind of setup, and you won't have any problems with belt slip. Tom ------- Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2003 21:43:00 +0100 From: Tony Jeffree Subject: RE: Drive Belts The Taig belts/pulleys deal with the Sherline motor just fine. I've had one running like that for several years. Regards, Tony ------- NOTE TO FILE: A thread started in the Sherline group on 22 Dec 2003 on the Subject: RE: mill collet grip capabilities that was actually generic in value to any mill brand. That thread is carried in the file here called Cutters Collets and Arbors. Later on in that thread, some detailed information was added as to how to adapt Taig blank arbors into mill cutter holders for the Sherline mill (or for the Taig mill) when you have no lathe -- just the mill -- to do the necessary machining. Kept in the same file. ------- Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 02:46:02 -0000 From: "ggfinger65" Subject: Using Taig chuck on Sherline Hi Group, I have been looking at the Taig four jaw chuck for my Sherline lathe. I understand that the Sherline threads are different and the back of the chuck has to be modified to fit on the Sherline. Whats eating me is how do I properly hold the chuck in my lathe to do the work? I modified one of the Taig machinist faceplates without a problem. I just threaded the thing on backwards and machined the resess. I cant reverse the four jaw chuck because its too deep and will not seat on the threads? I think that the taig chuck is a fine little gem, and very well priced...I love my Sherline stuff too but some of the spare parts are costly..Am I gaining a headache or will I save some money. Rob ------- Date: Wed, 09 Jun 2004 08:08:17 -0500 From: "Bad Brad" Subject: RE: Using Taig chuck on Sherline One method is to use a larger lathe and chuck up a 1/2 inch bar and true it by taking a clean-up cut. Then chuck the four jaw on the outboard end. Face the back of the four jaw chuck the amount needed to get full thread engagement, now the back will be perpendicular to the jaws. Interestingly enough, My Taig four jaw fits Sherline spindle threads without any modification. I must have gotten lucky though because I have heard others say they can't get full thread engagement. Bad Brad Rabid Weasel Racing Team ------- Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 10:13:21 -0700 From: "Nicholas Carter and Felice Luftschein" Subject: Re: Using Taig chuck on Sherline The problem is the unthreaded 1/8" long register section in the back of the Taig chuck means that you only get a few threads engagement with the Sherline spindle, it fits, but it would be better if it could have more thread length holding it on. See our web pages http://www.cartertools.com/nfhome.html ------- Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 00:43:48 -0000 From: "campgems" Subject: Re: .165"spacer for sherline 3-jaw chuck [taigtools group] > Jerry Keiffer and others have recommended that I put a .165" spacer > on the [Taig] headstock before I screw on the sherline 3-jaw chuck. I > received the chuck and put it on and it seems to fit fine. The jaws > open to the max. and close all the way closed. Am I missing > something here? John, the need for the spacer is to ensure that the chuck registers against the spindle, and is not hanging on the threads. Take a look and see if the chuck screws all the way back and there is no gap between the hex portion of the spindle and the back of the chuck. A firm mating to this edge is required for the chuck to run true. > Also Tony Jeffrees recommends truing the 3-jaw Taig chuck > before use. Is it necessary to true the Sherline jaws before using? None of the three jaw chucks, of any size, will run exactly true. With the aluminum jaws, you can chuck up a washer near the size of the stock you are going to work with and the bore the jaws to exactly align them to the spindle. This would need to be repeated again for a different size stock. However, if the chuck is not registered correctly, there is little to be accomplished by truing the jaws as they will change every time you screw the chuck on the spindle, and maybe during a cut. Don ------- Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 18:31:08 -0000 From: "n2562001" Subject: Re: How do you make the .165" spacer? John. The front and back must absolutely parallel for proper alinement. A hardware store washer will not be parallel. You can machine this spacer as follows. First install. 1.000" or slightly larger steel stock in your lathe with about one inch sticking out in front of the chuck. Next face off the front at high speed for a good finish. From that point move back on the stock about .200" and cut a grove .250" deep and slightly wider than your lathe tool. Using a left hand lathe tool you can machine the back side of the spacer to a min. of .165". If your stock has not moved in the chuck both the front and rear will now be parallel. Next you can bore a .750" ID hole or part off the spacer ( Without touching the machined inner surface) remount it and bore the hole. Deburr where needed and you will have a parallel spacer. Jerry Kieffer ------- Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 18:56:51 -0000 From: "whatt_kid" Subject: Re: How do you make the .165" spacer? Jerry, That's a very clear explanation... which prompts me to ask an embarassingly simple question about a basic procedure: How do you cut a flat-bottomed groove in a turning such as you referred to in your explanation? Other than using a parting tool to cut the groove in increments, I can't imagine a method. Even using a parting tool, I'd be faced with the problem of how to finish the bottom of the groove. Obviously I'm missing a very fundamental piece of machining technique! Regards, Andrew ------- Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 20:08:11 -0000 From: "n2562001" Subject: Re: How do you make the .165" spacer? Andrew. It's actually a very good question that I never got a practical answer to many years ago when I first asked the same thing. For applications like model engine crank shafts etc. it is best if it is ground. However a very accurate square bottom can be machined by taking a .001" to .002" cut with a cutoff tool and moving it from side to side. This needs to be done with a good quality (at least USA made) cut off blade held as short as work will permit. It also must be square to the work. With a variable speed motor and a little experimenting with speed plus cutting fluid you can achieve a very nice finish. Jerry Kieffer ------- Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 22:18:35 -0700 From: Don Rogers Subject: Re: .165"spacer for sherline 3-jaw chuck >3 jaw chuck accuracy and repeatability is really very simple. >It is directly proportional to spindle accuracy, mounting accuracy, >and the quality of the chuck. Jerry, no argument on that point. The Taig is a great little chuck. You can't accidently unscrew it to the point you loose alignment with the jaws. You can machine the jaws for special jobs. In fact one of my projects to do is making a 1-10 spindle to Taig 3 jaw adaptor for my Atlas. It will allow me put /2" stock through the head stock with no problem, and it is very accurate also. What does affect any chuck, or collet, is the condition of the screws, and the registration surfaces of the spindle, and the chuck. Also, on the 3 jaw chucks, or any of the scroll chucks, the accuracy of the scroll comes into play. Including wear. This is the reason to do a final cut on the soft jaws for the ultimate accuracy for a given size stock. On the topic of the 0.165 spacer, it really doesn't have to be 0.165" thick. Close is OK, but parallel surfaces is important. It doesn't even have to be round, as long as the hole in the center allows the chuck to tighten on one surface and the other surface to register on the spindle. The reason you need the spacer is that the Sherline chucks aren't counter bored deep enough to register on the Taig spindle. The spacer accommodates this difference. But, it introduces a problem. If the spacer is off parallel by just 0.00025", it will introduce a couple of thousands of wobble to the face of the chuck. Just project the angle from the 1/2" from center to the 1.5" on the diameter of the chuck. Also, as it is not fixed to either the chuck or the spindle, the wobble will not be repeatable with each mounting of the chuck. If the same misalignment was there without the spacer, the chuck would register in the same place on the spindle, and the jaw could be recut to accommodate the slight wobble. With the spacer, this repeatability is not possible unless the spacer has exactly parallel surfaces. One of the special setup jobs I do regularly is to machine the mounting lug off the back plate on a AGD group 1 dial indicator. Do do this, I adjusted the jaws to just under the right size to grasp the back plate. Put the correct size washer in the jaws and tightened them down. I then cut a step into the face of the jaws very close to the diameter of the back plate, and just deep enough to grasp the back plate but still allow me to surface the face of it. I have to recut this setup every now and then, due to wear, but it gives me a very accurate, and repeatable setup for this operation. The same approach could be used to produce the .165 spacers, even if the chuck was wobbling badly, as long as it is solidly mounted. You are truing the jaw surface to the spindle, so once you cut in the step to hold the washer, machined one surface, turn it around and machined the other, the spacer/washer would be parallel. You would then put it behind the chuck and go through the resurface of the jaws again to now true them with the spindle now that the chuck body is running true. Don ------- NOTE TO FILE: (Above.) The use of a Sherline chuck on a Taig spindle requires a spacer with parallel surfaces to ensure squareness of the chuck mounting. John Schadle writes about one method to make a spacer on 2 Jun 2001 here. Jerry Kieffer describes a similar process on 29 Oct 2004 in a thread. Don Rogers has a slightly different method reported on 29 Oct 2004. Others have just taken a Taig arbor blank and machined off the forward portion to make a threaded spacer. ------- NOTE TO FILE: This next started as a question about adapting a Beall collet chuck to a Taig lathe, and quickly spread to adapting chucks to use on both Taig and Sherline lathes; so I put the discussion here where both brands' users would benefit. Actually, the ideas are relevant to any lathe. ------- Date: Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:12:20 -0000 From: "Jim Knighton" Subject: Re: Beall Tool Co. Collet Chuck > I notice the Company [Lee Valley] offers a collet chuck with 3/4" - 16 > thread. Has any Taig user tried one? This would be a good replacement > for the Taig collet system. The Collet chucks appear to ER collets. > Thanks Gordon Reithmeier Gordon, the Beall chuck is primarily oriented to woodworkers, and is available from a variety of woodturning suppliers including Craft Supply USA (www.woodturnerscatalog.com) and Woodcraft (www.woodcraft.com). Some small woodturning lathes use a 3/4" - 16 thread rather like the Taig. Personally, I've not seen the Beall chuck in this configuration. It is not listed with these threads in either the Craft Supply or the Woodcraft catalogs. For instance, CSU lists the Beall chuck with 1", 1.25" and 1.5" threads only. I've not seen any indication of what collets Beall uses, but since the largest shown in the catalog is for 3/4" work, I suspect they are ER32. CSU lists the Axminster "Junior" collet chuck and offers 3 collets in sizes most commonly used by woodturners. The Axminster (UK) web site clearly states that these are ESX20 collets. ESX20 is apparently the European designation for ER20 collets and the two are supposedly identical and interchangable. This is the only ER chuck that I've found that might be directly mountable on the Taig or other similar lathe. Since I have Sherline lathes, this was not an option because Sherline doesn't accomodate the registration recess. Taig chucks and other acces- sories with the recess won't thread securely on the Sherline. Only a thread or two engages. In the case of these woodturning accessories, not even that much would engage leading me to believe that the woodturning lathes for which these accessories are intended might not have exactly the same spindle nose configuration as the Taig. Caveat emptor! Some of the woodturning accessories and chucks (including the Axminster Junior) are sold with a 5/8" plain (unthreaded) mount. This matches the spindle nose of Shopsmith tools and perhaps others as well. It is possible to machine an adapter that will permit using these accessories on other machines. I did this to mount to my Sherline lathe 1) a stubby industrial er20 collet chuck, 2) a short industrial er40 chuck, and 3) a Nova woodturning chuck. The same can be done to mount them on the Taig. For what it's worth, all three of these "non-standard" work holding tools work exceedingly well on my lathes and should work just as well on the Taig provided that you take their length into consideration. Photos are available if you are interested. Send me an email at jimknightonx~xxworldnet.att.net and I'll send them to you in reply. Regards, Jim Knighton ------- Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2004 10:38:39 -0000 From: "dan pines" Subject: Re: Beall Tool Co. Collet Chuck hi all. i would like to second jim knighton's advice on using er style collets. i use sherline equipment and they also suffer from the lack of a good collet solution. at first i discussed with nick carter (dear man who helped me get started on metal working) the possibility of using the taig collets on the sherline. it can be done but as there are no metric sizes (i live in israel) and the max size is rather limited i gave it up. i searched for straight small dia. shank er collet closers. i ended up with 50mm long 20 mm. dia closers for er25 and er32 collets. mine are made in italy but i am sure you can find other brands as well. i cut the shank of the heavier er32 collet closer to 25mm length. both now fit nicely into the sherline 4 jaw chuck and would probably fit the taig 4 jaw as well. they work quite well. i also bored blank taig holders to hold these collet closers. ruined the first 2 by over-boring less than 0.01mm. the third came out ok. to sum up, the solutions are somewhere out there, even if not offered by the tool manufacturer. some photos can be seen at the end of the photo section on http://groups.yahoo.com/group/i-s-u/ regards dan pines sherline distributer, israel ------- Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2004 20:20:14 +0000 From: Steve Blackmore Subject: Re: Re: Beall Tool Co. Collet Chuck >i would like to second jim knighton's advice on using er style collets. I finally got around to making an ER16 one today, took about an hour. I used a spare head assembly and pulley. Spindle is a Straight shank Extension mini collet chuck ER16 EXT/MINI/COLL/CH 16DIx160 MM LONG J&L part No HHV-76014D The 16mm id bearings came from my local supplier. They are rated at 10,000 rpm with grease 18,000 with oil. All it needed was 2 collars making, one fits below the bearings and has spanner flats, it's held onto the shank by setscrews into ground flats & loctite. The top bush is held with three setscrews. The pulley needed just a tiny amount boring out to make it fit. I used the existing centre spacer and mount. I had to cut 24mm off the shaft to get the pulley down. It was case hardened, once through that it cut easily. It was assembled in the vice with a bit of pressure to get some preload then all tightened up. Ran it for couple of hours to set the loctite and did some test cuts, seems very good. Nice touch -- it is hollow with a threaded section that has a screw. It makes it easy to get a repeatable height offset when changing tools. Steve Blackmore ------- Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 17:52:19 +1030 From: "Eric Parsonage" Subject: Re: Need an MT1 to 3/4-16 adaptor Sherline make a MT0 to 3/4-16 adaptor. There is a MT2 to 3/4-16 adaptor at http://www.bonnieklein.com/BKOrderForm.htm but I don't know of a MT1 to 3/4-16 -- sorry. I am just about to buy the MT2 one so I can put my Taig tooling on my Myford. [Original post was looking to put Sherline chucks on a MT 1 adaptor.] ------- Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2004 15:56:50 -0000 From: "n2562001" Subject: Re: Need an MT1 to 3/4-16 adaptor Alan: Sherline makes a MT-1 blank that a 3/4"x 16 thread could be single point cut on it for this type of application. (P/N 3055) This is one of the reasons I have never regretted spending a few extra dollars for the Sherline rotary table. Everything is compatible where chucks and WW collets can be accurately transferred from the lathe to a table that is far more accurate than the Imports. I suspect that is also why Taig also uses it. Jerry Kieffer ------- Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2005 11:22:34 -0000 From: "Walter Anderson" Subject: Re: Sherline motor on Taig In taigtoolsx~xxyahoogroups.com, "free2cnc" wrote: > Would the Sherline headstock easily mount to the Taig? Larry It is an easy modification for either the lathe or the mill. If you are using the mill the adapter plate will need four new holes drilled for mounting the motor. For the Sherline pulleys the spindle pulley will need to be bored to 0.625". If you use the Taig pulley's the motor pulley will need a shaft adpater to fit the pulley to the motor's 0.3125" shaft. I performed this mod on my lathe a month or so ago. The information should apply to the mill as well. I posted information on my web site if you're interested; www.walteranderson.us/hobbies/metalworking/microlathe/sherline_motor_ upgrade/ It has dimensioned drawings for the plate as well as photos of my modification. It works very well. I've also included a table of the RPM's I've measured on the different pulley settings. The low end ones are conservative (I chose RPM's where the torque seemed very high). One advantage of the Sherline Pulley is that lower RPM's are possible. Walter ------- Date: Sat, 02 Jul 2005 01:38:18 -0000 From: "Jim Knighton" Subject: Re: Tail stock [taigtools group] > Hi, I'm a Sherline lathe owner and I need a more adjustable tail > stock. I've looked around the Sherline site's but didn't find one > that was adjustable so you could cut a taper. So I looked around at > the other desktop lathes and the Taig's tail stock looks like it > will fit the bill. [did not want to offset the Sherline headstock] Scott, a couple of years ago I adapted a Taig tailstock to work on a Sherline lathe. Photos are in the Sherline forum archive in a folder bearing my name. I think there is a photo of on Nick Carter's web site as well. A few weeks ago I finished a new tailstock for my Taig lathe that is more Sherlinesque. Nick Carter has the photos but he hasn't done an update since recieving them. Both tailstocks can be adjusted laterally for turning tapers. Both work quite well, in fact. If your Sherline has risers there is ample vertical space to do this adaptation. If it doesn't, you might be able to use the same design approach, and/or machine your own tailstock body, but the taig casting might not work. Contact me off forum if you want to discuss this in more detail or if you would like me to send you photos. Regards, Jim ------- Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 02:43:12 -0000 From: "Jim Knighton" Subject: Re: Lathe tailstock Mod? In taigtoolsx~xxyahoogroups.com, "Martin Dobbins" wrote: >> I'm proposing to replace the tailstock barrel with a steel shaft which is hardened and ground and exactly 0.5". Of course, it doesn't fit the hole in the tailstock which happens to be a shade under. My first thought was to ream the tailstock to 0.5", then I actually engaged my brain and realized that I want a sliding fit just like the present tailstock. So what do I need? I figured an extra 0.001, or maybe 0.002 should do it; so what size reamer do I need to get 0.501", 0.502" or bigger? Thanks, Martin << Martin: A couple of years ago I adapted a Taig tailstock to my Sherline lathe. In that context, I did the modification you're thinking about. I reamed the Taig's tailstock to .500". AS I recall, originally the bore was .497". Of course, and as you noted, once this is done the original Taig tailstock ram/live center doesn't fit any more. So, I made new ram and live centers using 1/2" drill rod. Again, as you noted, this stock won't give a sliding fit without a bit of work. I found that with fine files, sandpaper, and some polishing/buffing I quickly got the fit I wanted. This approach has worked well for me and over time I've built several drilling arbors, live centers, etc. that work exceptionally well (at least in my shop on that machine). Just don't overdo the abrasives - it doesn't take much to get the fit you're looking for. Regards, Jim ------- Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 22:03:58 -0500 From: "Martin Dobbins" Subject: Re: Re: Lathe tailstock Mod? Tom Benedict wrote: >> You can get over/under reamers that'll do 0.501 and 0.499, respectively. Pick up the over reamer, and you'd be good to go. BUT! That being said, I'd rather ream to 0.500" and do what Jim wrote. You'd get a closer fit in the end. Tom << Thanks for the tip off about over/under reamers, but I've had second thoughts about reaming a sliding fit tolerance when it's better to make one by lapping. This shaft is ground to an exact 0.500, so going "under" to 0.499 isn't going to work either. Martin ------- Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 21:56:08 -0000 From: "Jim Knighton" Subject: Re: Sherline chuck on Taig lathe?? In taigtools, "scitech200" wrote: > I would be very interested in hearing from Taig lathe users that have > installed the steel Sherline 3-jaw chuck, in place of the standard > Taig chuck. Keith: Since I have several Sherline chucks (and lathes to go with them, for that matter) I tried to adapt them to my Taig lathe. You are probably already aware that the spindle noses are rather different. It's not a simple "thread-on" proposition. The Sherline threaded nose isn't as long as the Taig, and the Taig has an unthreaded registration area behind the threads. In addition, and not so well known, the Taig threads are cut to an H3 limit. The Sherline's are H2. All in all, this presents some interesting challenges. You may be able to use the Sherline chucks with a very precisely machined thick washer, abt 1/8" - 3/16" thick. The faces have to be absolutely parallel - if not, the chuck will be canted on the spindle nose and accuracy will definately suffer. In my case, I abandoned the idea. Sherline chucks stay on the Sherline, Taig chucks stay on the Taig, with this exception: In my shop I also have an Asian 7x lathe with a 3MT adapter with 3/4" - 16 threads. In theory, it is supposed to allow Sherline chucks to be used on the 7x. In fact, it doesn't - the threaded nose is too long. The Taig chucks, however, fit nicely on the adapter and run very true on the 7x. Curious, isn't it? I'm not sure what problem you are trying to solve, but in my case I ended up purchasing a Bison mini chuck from New England Brass & Tool. This chuck measures approx 2.5" in diameter (maybe a bit less) and is threaded 3/4" - 16. Its threads are deep enough, and it has the required registration recess. It fits "just right" on the Taig spindle nose. I think the Bison chuck is a significant improvement over the Taig 3-jaw scroll and I'm very pleased with this combination. I hope this helps, Jim ------- Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2005 01:41:52 -0000 From: "n2562001" Subject: Re: Sherline chuck on Taig lathe?? Keith: If I remember right I think I was told by the factory that the Sherline chucks were shipped with runout of no greater than .002". However none of mine have exceeded .0013" when clean and tested with an accurate test piece. To maintain this accuracy it is important that the spindle and Scroll/Jaws remain clean as with any chuck. I personally like the Sherline Chucks for three reasons. First they can accurately hold small items down to .025". Second even the 2.5" model (Larger one is 3.1") has a 1.000" jaw travel that has greater holding capacity and flexibility than the much larger Import Chucks. Third the compact design is much easier to work around with both large and small work pieces than the larger After market chucks on Taig/Sherline size machines. I have owned several Taig lathes over the years and currently own two. The Sherline chucks have threaded on all of the machines that I have owned without a problem. However there is about a .130" section at the rear of the threaded Taig spindle that is not threaded. The Sherline Chuck is designed to be used on a full threaded spindle as on the Sherline Spindles. If an accurate .750" ID X .160"-.190" Thick X at least 1.000" OD spacer is used on the Taig Spindle to take up the unthreaded space, the Sherline chucks can be used without a problem. Since the threaded part of the Taig Spindle is about .230" longer than the Sherline the spacer will not cause a problem. The spacer must be parallel in order to Maintain the factory accuracy of the Sherline Chuck. One accurate way of doing this yourself would be to machine a snug fit spacer with one side faced off square. Then cut off to about .200" thick. Next locktite it on the spindle with the faced off surface facing the rear of the spindle and against the register. Once the locktite sets up you can carefully machine the front surface that will be as accurate as your lathe. When completed the spacer can be tapped off the spindle with little effort. If you do not wish to machine a spacer yourself you can purchase one or more as needed. An example would be a .750" ID hardened and ground parallel Milling machine Arbor spacers such as MSC part number 08188161. Jerry Kieffer ------- Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2005 14:14:33 -0000 From: "John Shadle" Subject: Re: Sherline chuck on Taig lathe?? I use a Taig lathe daily in my work (clock repairing) and, while the Taig chuck has its uses, I much prefer to work with the Sherline chuck. It's smaller, I appreciate the steel jaws, and it's much more finger-friendly. As remarked earlier, it requires a 1/8" parallel-sided washer to back it on the lathe arbor. I frequently remove the chuck to use the WW-collet feature of my lathe, and this off-and-on repetition doesn't bother the truth of the chuck, although in a case where I'm particularly concerned with concentricity I may have to re-mount it a time or two before it's dead on. John B. Shadle, CMC Call sign: AC0CX Hand-built clocks http://www.onlineclockbuilding.com ------- From: Dave Hylands Date: Thu Dec 8, 2005 10:24 am Subject: Re: [sherline] Need a cheaper T-rest solution [sherline] On 12/8/05, Tom Murphy wrote: > Does anyone know of a cheaper solution for a WR Smith T-rest (like part > number 2110). Need to do some hand graving/turning (for brass) .... > but the price on this part is a little steep. > Any other options? Anyone hand make one? designs? Hi Tom: Well, I did something close. I ordered the Lee Valley Wood Turning swivel base for the Taig and modified it for the Sherline. http://www.davehylands.com/Wood-Working/Tool-Rest/ The Lee Valley Tool rest is available here: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=50247&cat=1,330,50260 I ordered just the "Extra Swivel Base" which is only $22.50 US. Dave Hylands Vancouver, BC, Canada http://www.DaveHylands.com/ ------- From: "n2562001" Date: Thu Dec 8, 2005 10:36 am Subject: Re: Need a cheaper T-rest solution Tom: For occasional use round or square stock held in the tool post parallel to the bed will work. Jerry Kieffer ------- Re: chuck spacer [taigtools] Posted by: "Collins, Graham" collingx~xxnavcanada.ca Date: Thu Jan 11, 2007 11:51 am ((PST)) >>A general question about which way the fit goes with Taig and Sherline- specific chucks. As I understand it, a Sherline chuck on a taig requires some work (the current thread, or boring the back a bit). Is that right? Second, do Taig chucks and other Taig-specific spindle-mount things work on the Sherline without modification? bill << The Sherline parts work on the Taig but you need a spacer for the spindle as the Sherline parts don't have the same registration area that the Taig chucks do. Taig chucks on the Sherline are another matter as they have a registration area and won't use as many threads on the Sherline spindle as a Sherline chuck. I have no experience in this area however and defer the question to someone with first hand knowledge. Use the the Sherline 3 jaw chuck and face plate on my Taig all the time. I made a spacer to fit over the registration area of the Taig spindle 3/4" inside diameter or there abouts ( I bored it fit ) and just long enough to just cover the registration area. After parting off I checked the runout of the Sherline 3 jaw chuck and got about .003" to .004" - pretty much as I was expecting from what I had read about in previous posts. However, I took it one step further. I hand lapped my spacer on a sheet of glass using 400 grit wet or dry and lots of oil. Smoothed both ends of the spacer and ended up with parallel faces within .0005". After mounting the chuck and checking runout with the spacer rotated to various locations I found a position where runout was not a bit less than .001". I marked one of the hex faces on the Taig spindle with a light centre punch and a corresponding one on the spacer (light so as not to distort anything). Now I can mount the chuck with the spacer the same way every time knowing my runnout will be around the .001" mark. Hope my description is not confusing. Cheers, Graham in Embrun near Ottawa Canada. ------- Re: chuck spacer Posted by: "Tony Jeffree" tonyx~xxjeffree.co.uk Date: Thu Jan 11, 2007 10:09 am ((PST)) > if I face off and bore a spacer, won't parting it off make > both faces parallel? Parting off doesn't always leave you with a nice flat face - depends a lot on the type of parting tool that you use, how it was ground, whether it is truly perpendicular to the spindle axis,...etc. So the cut face from parting off will often give you what is effectively a conical surface. Regards, Tony ------- Re: chuck spacer Posted by: "Tony Jeffree" tonyx~xxjeffree.co.uk Date: Thu Jan 11, 2007 3:32 pm ((PST)) At 20:59 11/01/2007, you wrote: >Thanks Tony, >I'm hoping to learn as much as possible, and appreciate those with >lots of experience contributing to the discussion. I was thinking I >would use the T Bar cut off tool from behind as is normal for this >tool. Because of the clearances on this tool, I guess I was thinking >that as long as the tool is moved into the work at close to >perpendicular, I would end up with what it basically a facing cut from >behind. Perhaps that thinking ignored the flexing of the tool >(especially if it is really not perpendicular and so rubbing against >the kerf (do machinists call it a kerf??)), or even the flexing of the >material, if the part is thin. I'm not thinking that the .160" or so >thickness of this part would flex, but then, like I said, I don't >really know anything about metal. I probably have all kinds of wrong >ideas about its rigidity. I know I can part off very thin disks of >hardwood of consistent thickness if I'm careful, the tool is sharp, >and the gods like me that day. You may end up that lucky. I haven't used the T-bar tool on the Taig - I acquired a cutoff tool that uses Carbide inserts and have used that for a while. With that tool the shape of the cut does seem to be very sensitive to the angle relative to the spindle axis - probably a lot of this is as you say due to flex in the tool (which is necessarily quite thin). >I'm trying to picture how a conical section (of course with an >extremely shallow angle) is produced. Is it convex or concave to the >parted part usually? Or is that simply a matter of angle of incidence >of tool to part? Combination of angle of incidence and the type of tool. I suspect that the effect is enhanced if the end of the cutoff tool isn't ground square (which is often the case). >If it's convex, then although the registration >contact would be *significantly* reduced, it would still be parallel >to the faced face, wouldn't it? Or would the thickness of the part >vary not only transversely (from I.D. to O.D.) but also axially (am I >using these terms correctly here?)? I'm thinking it shouldn't. You're right - the plane of contact should still be parallel to the faced face, so it may not be a practical issue. >Also, whether convex or concave, could careful lapping correct the >issue, as Graham suggests? I've got a nice flat piece of plate glass >with sandpaper glued to it ranging from 80 grit to 2000 that I use to >sharpen my woodworking chisels and plane blades. As long as there is >no axial error (I'm going to be brave and just keep using the word >that way), then as long as the newly polished bits remain concentric, >then I'm lapping them parallel with the other face, no? If you can lap something that accurately you're a better man than me ;-) Seriously, it can be hard to lap with sufficiently even pressure to avoid removing more material at one side than the other. >Finally, if I attach the newly parted part to the register surface >with Loctite and *carefully* face it, will I have a parallel washer? That could work. Alternatively, use the 3-jaw chuck and bore the jaws at about the right diameter to grip the part; that should then hold it nicely against a newly cut face that can't help but be perpendicular to the spindle axis. Regards, Tony ------- Using Taig Accessories -- Thoughts [sherline] Posted by: "VINCE PUGLIESE" gigitreoseix~xxrogers.com Date: Wed Feb 13, 2008 12:21 pm ((PST)) I have noticed many of the Taig accessories like the slitting saw, fly cutter and drill chuck arbor simply screw on the spindle unlike the equivalent Sherline components which are designed for a drawbar. Has anyone used these and would care to comment. (I know that it is necessary to rid the Taig accessories of the register length.) Thanks in advance, .vp ------- Re: Using Taig Accessories -- Thoughts Posted by: "Greg Procter" procterx~xxihug.co.nz Date: Wed Feb 13, 2008 1:06 pm ((PST)) Hi Vince, tools held by the Morse Taper and drawbar _should_ be more accurate than those screwed onto the spindle because the taper is made in a single operation whereas the spindle has to be turned and then separately threaded, as of course does the accessory. However, the questionable accuracy of threaded spindle tools is so small that it is nearly negligable when one is setting up an individual job. If you're doing production line work which involves regular changes of tool then the additional Morse Taper fitting accuracy is worth having. I used the Unimat threaded spindle fitting for 25 years without problems. Greg.P. ------- Re: Using Taig Accessories -- Thoughts Posted by: "Pierre Coueffin" pcoueffinx~xxgmail.com Date: Wed Feb 13, 2008 3:32 pm ((PST)) I thought that a threaded nose spindle does not use the threads to locate the part? The flat surface coming into contact with the spindle, was supposed to align the chuck to the headstock.... I'm fairly sure I read that in Doug Briney's book, but it has been a few years. Please enlighten me if I've somehow got a very confused idea of how the headstock and spindle threads work... ------- Re: Using Taig Accessories -- Thoughts Posted by: "David Wagoner" dqrwagonerx~xxyahoo.com Date: Wed Feb 13, 2008 3:45 pm ((PST)) Vince, I have used the Taig arbor blanks (1130) for years for special mill holders, cutoff saws etc. I even modified one to use the Taig collet set (1040). I find it so quick and easy, I use it way more than my Sherline collet set and I have not noticed any accuracy problems. Best Regards Dave Wagoner ------- Re: Using Taig Accessories -- Thoughts Posted by: "Jerry Jankura" toolzngluex~xxsbcglobal.net Date: Wed Feb 13, 2008 5:26 pm ((PST)) Dave - could you post the details of your collet set adapter in either the files or photos area of this list? I know at least one list member who's interested - and suspect that several others are as well. Thanks, Jerry Jankura ------- Re: Using Taig Accessories -- Thoughts Posted by: "David Wagoner" dqrwagonerx~xxyahoo.com Date: Thu Feb 14, 2008 7:04 am ((PST)) Jerry, I will be happy to. I posted pictures and a writeup years ago but there did not seem to be much interest at the time. I pulled the photos off after a few months when the group started having space problems. I will see if I can dig up the information again. Dave ------- Re: Using Taig Accessories -- Thoughts Posted by: "Greg Procter" procterx~xxihug.co.nz Date: Wed Feb 13, 2008 4:54 pm ((PST)) Hi Pierre: The flat surface at the back (of the chuck, ...) locates the tool at right angles to the spindle centre line, but the tool also needs to be concentric with the spindle. Obviously the spindle shank can't locate precisely the socket of the tool. If shank and tool socket are straight then there needs to be clearance between them for one to fit over the other. The two can be out of concentricity by half the amount of clearance. You can't resolve that problem with a taper because then the back of the chuck/tool wouldn't contact the spindle flat. In fact, the thread is the taper that centres the chuck/tool. It is an extremely short, large angle (c60 degrees) taper, which isn't as good at centering the tool as the Morse Taper. In our cases, we're discussing a difference that is more theoretical than practical. Both forms of mounting are subject to inaccuracies through any dirt or dust. Greg.P. ------- Taig Collet Adapter for Sherline Lathe and Mill [sherline] Posted by: "David Wagoner" dqrwagonerx~xxyahoo.com Date: Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:17 pm ((PST)) All, I could not find the original pictures so I took new ones. I did manage to find the old post and added to it below. In 2003 I bought a Taig Collet set and closer nut (1040 - $29.85US) and some extra collet blanks (1043 - $2.90US). I made an adapter from Taig arbor blanks (1130 - $3.90US) that I keep around (very handy). I trimmed off the excess overhang that Taig arbor blanks have, being careful to keep this clean and square. I then flipped the blank over and drilled/bored out the center to match the lathe spindle hole, cut the thread for the closer nut and, finally, cut the 15 degree angle for the collets. I did all of these operations in one setup without removing the blank from the lathe. I uploaded the two pictures to the Photo folder called "Taig Collet Adapter". I find the collets quick and easy to use. They are not the quality of the Sherline collets but they are also not the price of the Sherline collets. For all of the work I have done, they have worked fine. Best Regards David Q. R. Wagoner ------- Re: Taig Collet Adapter for Sherline Lathe and Mill Posted by: "Tom Bank" trbankx~xxpaonline.com Date: Sun Feb 17, 2008 7:56 pm ((PST)) David: Could you measure the length of the Taig collets for us? Also, do those collets grip the work piece for their full length? I'm wondering how long a piece they would hold straight while you worked on the end. The fact that the workpiece can go through the collet is a real advantage. Could you give us a guess as to how large a bore you could put in a blank collet without destroying its integrity? Thanks much, Tom Bank ------- Re: Taig Collet Adapter for Sherline Lathe and Mill Posted by: "David Wagoner" dqrwagonerx~xxyahoo.com Date: Sun Feb 17, 2008 9:55 pm ((PST)) Tom: The total length of the collets range from .605in (blanks) to .635in (largest). I uploaded some more pictures to the Taig collet folder I made. One shows a back shot of the collets. This one shows that all but the largest go all of the way through and grip the entire length of the collet. The second picture is a close up of one (sorry for the fuzzy picture). If you squint your eyes you should be able to see the projection on the front that goes into the closer nut and the "tail" on the back. The closer nub is about .100in long and the tail on the back is about .075in long. I bored out the adapter to be just a little larger then the tail diameter. I measured the OD of the "tail" to be about .335in so the MAX I would bore one out would be .300in. Best Regards Dave ------- Re: sherline (mdl. 3750) tilting angle table [taigtools] Posted by: "n2562001" jlkiefferx~xxcharter.net Date: Fri May 2, 2008 7:32 am ((PDT)) "leeharrysouth" wrote: > I am considering purchace of this table and wonder if any one could > comment on its rigidity and precission. I intend to use it on a taig > manual mill. I also am curious what material it is made of and if taig > chuks will fit the table 3/4 X 16 chuck mount. thanks, Johnny Johnny: The Sherline adjustable angle plate is made from stainless plate stock with steel fixtures. Mine is accurately constructed and is rigid enough for the size of work that a Taig mill was designed for. Precision of adjustments will of course depend on your measurement. One thing I have done to mine was to flip the angle adjustment plates 180 degrees. This allows the vertical plate to be mounted in the middle of the mounting plate. I have found this arrangement to be a little more flexible on setups. The chuck adaptor can be used with Taig chucks by putting a .200" spacer under the adaptor to reach the chuck threads. Jerry Kieffer ------- Re: Sherline dovetail vs Taig dovetail? [taigtools] Posted by: "David Underwood" dave.underwoodx~xxsympatico.ca Date: Tue Sep 30, 2008 2:07 pm ((PDT)) j.toddshultz wrote: > Does anyone know if the Sherline lathe bed dovetail is the same specs > as the Taig lathe bed? The Taig bed dovetails are 45 degrees and the Sherline 55.5 degrees. Dave ------- Unknown 4 jaw self-centering chuck [sherline] Posted by: "ransome_duke" ransome_dukex~xxyahoo.com Date: Mon Dec 29, 2008 4:15 am ((PST)) Need some help in identifing a 4 jaw self-centering chuck. Was told it is a Sherline chuck but the jaws appear to be home made. Is a dealer offering this type of jaw? Any help would be appreciated. See photo in album named Ransome ------- Re: Unknown 4 jaw self-centering chuck Posted by: "n2562001" jlkiefferx~xxcharter.net Date: Mon Dec 29, 2008 8:16 am ((PST)) Name?? Your Photo is not very clear but it would appear that you are the proud owner of a Taig self centering 4 Jaw Chuck. http://www.taigtools.com/c1060.html If so it will have aluminum Jaws designed to be machined for whatever purpose is required. (Yours have been machined.) While occasionally desirable, I personally have not found them well suited for general machining. Especially for holding small items accurately. I mainly use my Taig Chucks for holding Glass work pieces. They work well for this and as I understand were originally designed for Optic work. Taig Chucks will screw on a Sherline spindle but only by about one thread. To properly secure to a Sherline Spindle, a 1.050" diameter x .150" deep pocket should be machined at the rear of the register/thread. The above Taig link will provide insight on use as well as a source for new sets of Aluminum Jaws. Jerry Kieffer -------- Re: Unknown 4 jaw self-centering chuck Posted by: "a3sigma" dcclark111x~xxcomcast.net Date: Mon Dec 29, 2008 10:42 am ((PST)) Hi Jerry, et al, I think this may have been covered before, but refresh my failing memory, please. Why won't a Taig chuck screw onto a Sherline spindle without modification? Are the threads on the Taigs recessed, as in a counterbored hole? Then why a 1.050" pocket? The large diameter of the spindle nose on my Sherlines is .986" Or am I completely missing the point (again)? As an alternative, what do you think about making an adapter by modifying a Sherline end mill holder to emulate a Taig spindle nose? Could this be done by reducing the diameter and turning a 3/4-16 thread on the end? When you say that you "have not found them well suited for general machining" are you referring to just the aluminum jaws, or to Taig chucks in general? Taig chucks seem to be less costly than Sherline's. Do you consider them a good value? More generally: Can you (or anyone) tell me what other Taig accessories may be interchangeable or well adaptable to Sherline equipment? How do the dovetails of the ways compare? On the mill table, do they use the same size Tee nut? Are the Tee nut slots the same spacing? Many thanks for all your excellent information and advice, David Clark in Southern Maryland, USA ------- Re: Unknown 4 jaw self-centering chuck Posted by: "Alan Marconett" KM6VVx~xxSBCglobal.net Date: Mon Dec 29, 2008 12:07 pm ((PST)) Hi David: The blank Taig endmill holders are said to be a bargain, although I have not tried any. I can't think of any other Taig parts that would be useful enough or of sufficient bargain to warrant buying them over the Sherline parts. I just got a pair of the new 4-jaw self- centering chucks, and they look great! I'm looking forward to using them. I think it was a shoulder that needed to be turned off of the Taig chuck, rather then a pocket to be cut. It should be obvious when the chuck is viewed or tried on the spindle of the Sherline headstock. The ways and T-nuts are altogether different. Dovetails, certainly not that I am aware of. Have you looked at the Bison chucks? I keep hearing about them. Alan KM6VV ------- Re: Unknown 4 jaw self-centering chuck Posted by: "n2562001" jlkiefferx~xxcharter.net Date: Mon Dec 29, 2008 12:22 pm ((PST)) David: The Thread in the Taig Chuck is recessed by about .175" causing issues on the Sherline`s short nose thread. I only suggested 1.050" pocket diameter for safe clearance since plenty of metal is available for this cut on a Taig Chuck. As with many things you get what you pay for, no more no less. The aluminum jaws on the Taig three jaw/four jaw chuck have not worked well for me personally for general machining. In addition the jaw travel is quite limited for the size of the chucks. (Almost half of Sherlines.) In addition to that both the scroll and the jaw threads that contact the scroll are soft. I suspect that this has caused some of the repeatability/runout issues I have experienced after a limited amount of use. The Sherline jaw threads are hardened. Personally I have found the Taig chucks to be a very good value as an extra chuck for limited use on special projects requiring machined soft jaws. Machining a pocket in the chuck body is very simple. A accurate ground drill blank can be mounted in a Lathe chuck with the Taig chuck mounted on the same rod. The pocket can then be machined on the chuck body. In my opinion this would be easier and more repeatable and stable than an adapter. Most Taig and Sherline accessories are not interchangeable with each other without some modification. The table slots on the Taig mill are slightly larger than Sherlines with different spacing. Dovetails and ways are different angles etc.. I have found most Taig accessories are a good value at a fair price for what they are and what you get. If your demands or expectations are high, I think you will find most of Sherline's accessories a better value for the dollar. Especially if you want it to work right the first time out of the box. Jerry Kieffer ------- Re: Unknown 4 jaw self-centering chuck Posted by: "Pierre Coueffin" pcoueffinx~xxgmail.com Date: Mon Dec 29, 2008 10:06 pm ((PST)) I like the Taig blank arbors. I own a 3/4"-16 TPI tap, so I could buy 1" diameter pieces of free-machining steel, cut off a 2.5" piece, bore it out, then tap it... But for the price of the taig arbors, they are a really cheap and quick way to mount a random object on the spindle thread. I've got a nice 4" carbide-tipped cutoff saw that I'm going to set up an arbor for next. That should be handy for all sorts of cutoff and narrow slotting operations. They'd make a nice starting point for a custom boring-head or flycutter project too, though I really want to do a nice flycutter that starts out as a sherline lathe faceplate. ------- Re: Unknown 4 jaw self-centering chuck Posted by: "alenz2002" alenzx~xxbellsouth.net Date: Tue Dec 30, 2008 12:48 am ((PST)) Pierre, I agree that the Taig blank arbors are the best kept secret Sherline bargain of all time. I got a bunch from Nick Carter a few years ago. Just cut back the excess lip, mount it on the spindle and anything you make it into will be dead true and, in my experience, will stay that way. Probably truer than the Sherline mill holders. Al ------- Re: Unknown 4 jaw self-centering chuck Posted by: "Pierre Coueffin" pcoueffinx~xxgmail.com Date: Tue Dec 30, 2008 12:48 pm ((PST)) On Dec 30, 2008, Alan Marconett wrote: > I seem to remember that one would need to cut off a little of > the endmill holder to "get down to the threads". Maybe > someone can verify that. Alan KM6VV On the blank arbors that I bought, the threads engage my sherline spindle for about 2 turns. 'm planning on facing off some of the unthreaded part of the arbor to get better engagement at some point though. If I were very careful to indicate them in before facing, I think that I won't lose any accuracy, but if I do, I'll just machine all the surfaces after I mount it on the spindle... I think that if I take a cleanup cut on any critical surface, it should be as accurate as anything that I could produce on the lathe. ------- Re: adapter on spindle [sherline group] Posted by: "Tom & Judy Bank" trbank1x~xxverizon.net Date: Thu Dec 31, 2009 9:17 am ((PST)) Original Message From: rsimonus Wednesday, December 30, 2009 >> I am going to make a adapter on spindle. Can someone tell me what >> the size and TPI on lathe spindle? How do you make thread on it to >> fit the thread on spindle? Reid "chieftoolmaker" chieftoolmakerx~xxearthlink.net wrote: > Hi Reid. What is the adapter for? > If for Sherline lathe (or mill), the thread is 3/4"-16 ( TPI) > Adapters are available on Sherline and other Internet sources. > You may not have to make anything.....Unless you want the practice. > Jerry G Reid: If you want to make attachments for the Sherline spindle nose, take a look at , item #1132, priced at $2.75. It works with Sherline lathes and mills, but you have to cut the bore off back to the threads. The Taig lathe has a different nose configuration, like a woodworking lathe, on which the threads are farther out than on the Sherline. I and many others, buy these things a half dozen at a time to make Sherline machine accessories. Much easier than threading your own attachments with the 3/4"-16 thread. Regards, Tom Bank ------- Re: adapter on spindle Posted by: "Reid" reidsimx~xxgmail.com Date: Thu Dec 31, 2009 10:39 pm ((PST)) It is for mill. I would like to make a tool holder for gear cutter. Look at the picture: http://metaltronics.files.wordpress.com/2008/03/gears_05.jpg and just the idea that I want to make one. How do we make thread on it? Do you use the Sherline Thread Cutting Attachment? I have one but never used it before. It came with lathe when I bought it. Reid ------- Re: adapter on spindle Posted by: "a3sigma" dcclark111x~xxcomcast.net Date: Fri Jan 1, 2010 4:43 am ((PST)) Hello Reid, Making fixtures that screw directly onto the spindle nose is a viable idea. But they must be well made in order to achieve good results. It will be necessary to single point cut the threads in the same setup as you machine whatever features will establish the axis of your cutting tools or gear blanks. Or, cut the threads first, screw the fixture onto the spindle, and then machine the features. Or, buy a threaded, blank arbor, http://tinyurl.com/y8d8xl7 for example, and machine that. Alternatively, here's a cutter holder I made from a Sherline 3065 Slitting Saw Holder http://tinyurl.com/ya5ob52 http://tinyurl.com/ya3sby4 David Clark in Southern Maryland, USA ------- Re: adapter on spindle Posted by: "Hamilton Elliott" helliottx~xxmicroflex.ie Date: Fri Jan 1, 2010 5:23 am ((PST)) Hi David & Reid, I have found those 3/4" 16 blanks from A2Z to be an easy way to get started on making my own with a set of taps. Sherline make MT1 blank arbors with drawbolt for a good price. Great if you don't feel confident about making accurate tapers yet, like I don't. It's a lot cheaper than modifying already finished tools. Hamilton ------- Slitting Saw [sherline] Posted by: "rsimonus" reidsimx~xxgmail.com Date: Tue Jun 22, 2010 10:44 am ((PDT)) I would like to order a slitting saw. Can we use Taig tools' 1110 Slitting saw arbor on the Sherline Mill or Lathe machine? Will it work? Reid ------- Re: Slitting Saw Posted by: "Flosi" flosigudx~xxsimnet.is Date: Tue Jun 22, 2010 11:26 am ((PDT)) Yes, with modification. You have to machine off the unthreaded part. Flosi [later message] > I am very new on this and I am not sure what do you mean by "unthreaded part" Can you explain little more? Do you mean we need to change the thread on arbor which we can attach to Sherline. I feel dumb on this. :D Reid < The difference between Sherline and Taig arbors is that with the former the thread starts immediately while there is an unthreaded part about 1/4" which means that at most one thread is engaged. This part has to be cut off. This all becomes obvious when you can compare actual parts. I'm going to post a picture of a Taig arbour blank that has identical thread to the item you are asking about and an endmill holder made from such blank and a genuine Sherline endmill holder. ------- Re: Slitting Saw Posted by: "Jeffrey T. Birt" birt_jx~xxsoigeneris.com Date: Tue Jun 22, 2010 12:49 pm ((PDT)) You can also get a Slitting saw arbor that is a direct for the Sherline from A2ZCNC in both a short (1.35") and long (2.1") versions. (They are designed for ½" ID blades.) It is not something I stock but I could get them in on my next order, you can also order them directly from A2Z. ------- Re: Slitting Saw Posted by: "Reid" reidsimx~xxgmail.com Date: Tue Jun 22, 2010 12:56 pm ((PDT)) Flori, I think I got it. We need to cut off unthreaded part of Taig arbor. How much cut off? Please send picture and I would like to see it befoe I decide to buy one. Does anyone know where is good place to buy a saw for it? Taig slitting saw part number is 1111 which they are .032 x 2 1/2 diameter high speed. Are they good to cut any metal? Reid ------- Re: Slitting Saw Posted by: "Dave Hylands" dhylandsx~xxgmail.com Date: Tue Jun 22, 2010 2:46 pm ((PDT)) Hi Reid, I used a Taig adapter, and there are some pictures and stuff over here: http://www.davehylands.com/Machinist/Modifications/Taig-Slit ting-Saw-Arbor/ Dave Hylands Shuswap, BC, Canada http://www.DaveHylands.com/ ------- Re: Slitting Saw Posted by: "Flosi" flosigudx~xxsimnet.is Date: Tue Jun 22, 2010 1:17 pm ((PDT)) The picture is in a folder by my name. The leftmost piece is a Taig arbor blank, next is an endmill holder made from such blank and finally genuine, never used, 8mm Sherline endmillholder. I now remember that I actually made a couple of saw holders from these blanks many years ago. The third one seems to have to gone walkabout. I will post pictures of them. The main reason for buying these blanks was the low price 1.75$+pp. That was about 12 years ago. I still have seven unmachined of 20 originally. I don't know how prices have evolved, but wouldn't be surprised if inflation had some effect. If saving money is your concern why not buy the unmachined arbor? Regards, Flosi in Iceland ------- Re: Slitting Saw Posted by: "alenz2002" alenzx~xxbellsouth.net Date: Wed Jun 23, 2010 12:19 am ((PDT)) Reid, I would strongly urge you to consider Flosi G's suggestion to make your own from a Taig blank arbor. Note, blank arbor, NOT the predrilled and tapped arbor. The reason is that after facing off the extra lip material, all further machining will be done with it mounted on the same spindle that it will later be used on. With no muss of fuss it will always run true on that spindle. If it were pre-threaded you would need to go to extra lengths to keep it true as Dave H. describes. Besides, the blank is cheaper too :) You can get them (you'll want several) from Nick Carter at: http://www.cartertools.com/catalog.html About half way down the page it's P/N 1132 Blank Arbor x~xx $2.75. That's still one of the best buys around for us Sherline lathe users. You can make saw arbors, mill holders, etc., etc. and know that they will run true on YOUR machine. Usual disclaimer, I am not affiliated with Nick Carter, just a satisfied customer. Al Lenz ------- NOTE TO FILE: Normally I only put a conversation into one file here. The following discussion wandered between adapting a Taig chuck to a Sherline machine (how to) and why, and the topic of Sherline chucks. Rather than break the conversation between the two files, it was placed in both: "Sherline to/from Taig Adapters" and "Sherline Chucks". ------- Taig Chuck for my Sherline Mill [sherline] Posted by: "m0nkshon0r" m0nkshon0rx~xxyahoo.com Date: Wed Nov 23, 2011 9:44 pm ((PST)) Fellas, I was thinking of buying a Taig 4 jaw chuck for my mill. I know the size of the Taig chuck causes clearance issues on the lathe, but I think it should work just fine on the mill. I figure, just keep one chuck dedicated for the mill. Any thoughts? p.s. one my future projects is stamping letters, I saw a tip on the Sherline website where they used a self centering 4 jaw to hold the letter stamps. AL ------- Re: Taig Chuck for my Sherline Mill Posted by: "Flosi" flosigudx~xxtalnet.is Date: Thu Nov 24, 2011 2:02 am ((PST)) You can machine a recess that makes the chuck fit. There was an article describing this in Machinist Workshop recently. I found the article, it's in April/May issue this year. The recess has to be 28mm [approximately 1.1"] wide and 3.8mm [approximately 0.15"] deep. rgds, flosi ------- Re: Taig Chuck for my Sherline Mill Posted by: "dbvogt" dbvogtx~xxyahoo.com Date: Thu Nov 24, 2011 7:32 am ((PST)) Don't know about the Taig chuck on a Sherline mill but A2Z sells all sorts of adapters. I went the opposite way and have an adapter to attach the Sherline chucks to the Taig Mill. The only drawback is the adapter does not have a through hole but drilling/boring it may get you 1/4 to 3/8 capacity. ------- Re: Taig Chuck for my Sherline Mill Posted by: "jerry kieffer" jlkiefferx~xxcharter.net Date: Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:53 am ((PST)) Al: The Taig chucks require a machined recess to properly mount on the Sherline spindle as mentioned. Personally I use a recess that is .150" deep by 1.010" in diameter. The Taig chuck can be held using the jaws for machining but the jaws should be trued using Taig's instructions on a Taig Lathe before machining. For letter stamping, the large diameter of the Taig chucks obstructs working vision for setup and stamping. Even the 2.5" Sherline chucks will obstruct vision somewhat, but are sufficient for a quick hassle free setup. If you do not want to purchase a chuck for stamping, you can easily machine an adaptor for use in a three jaw chuck. Start with round stock and machine at least a 1.000" long pocket in the stock. This pocket should be about centered in the stock with a snug fit to the square stamp. Next machine a flat across the top of the round stock deep enough to form the fourth side of a square hole that fits the square stamp. Then solder a plate over the flat and machine round for mounting in the three jaw chuck. Jerry Kieffer ------- Re: Taig Chuck for my Sherline Mill Posted by: "timgoldstein" timgx~xxktmarketing.com Date: Wed Nov 30, 2011 ((PST)) "m0nkshon0r" wrote: > so, the recess is necessary in order for the threads to get enough > "bite"? AL Sort of. The Sherline spindle nose has the area between the threads and the shoulder relieved with a groove that is a little deeper than the thread root. So items that screw onto a Sherline spindle are threaded all the way to the top. The Taig spindle the area between the threads and the shoulder is to not grooved so it is roughly the diameter of the crest of the threads. For items to screw on all the way the top .100" or so of the female threads are counterbored so the diameter is larger than the OD of the area between the shoulder and threads. So it is not to get more thread engagement that you need the counterbore, but to allow the chuck to screw in all the way. "dbvogt" wrote: > A2Z sells all sorts of adapters. For the direction of putting a Taig chuck on a Sherline machine, boring the chuck to relieve the threads at the top is a far better solution than an adapter. Anytime you use an adapter you compound any runout. Boring does not have this issue as long as your face is parallel. We do offer "bored" versions of Taig chucks. It is not cheap to do as sometimes things go wrong and it is a very expensive piece of scrap. You can find them at: www.a2zcorp.us/store/SearchDisplay.asp?Keyword=bored Tim Goldstein A2Z Corp 3955 S Mariposa St Englewood CO 80110 720 385-2118 Phone 877 754-7465 Toll Free www.A2ZCorp.us/store ------- Re: Taig Chuck for my Sherline Mill Posted by: "timgoldstein" timgx~xxktmarketing.com Date: Thu Dec 1, 2011 8:17 am ((PST)) "wongsterwish" wrote: > Hi Tim, I look up the Taig Chuck bored for the Sherline on your site. > It has a note that says hole in spindle will be covered by the chuck. > Do you mean the holes for tightening the chuck onto the spindle? Dear Wong, Yes, you are correct. It does not matter if we bore the chuck or if you do it yourself. The end result is you get a counter bore. So when you place the chuck on the spindle it goes over the shoulder of the spindle and covers the spindle holding hole. Tim Goldstein ------- Re: Taig Chuck for my Sherline Mill Posted by: "Yi Yao" yix~xxyyao.ca Date: Thu Dec 1, 2011 12:13 pm ((PST)) On 01/12/11 02:44 PM, Ken Condal wrote: > Can someone explain the benefits of the Taig chucks over the > Sherline ones? For me, it was cheaper. I needed a 4 jaw independent chuck. The Taig one was about $70 (in stock) while the Sherline one was about $140 (special order). So, I said to myself, I'll get the Taig one since the mounting thread is the same. I also noticed that the Taig 4 jaw chuck looks a lot beefier than the Sherline one. Looks can be deceiving, but the Taig 4 jaw chuck has a body which I think is made of solid 12L14. When I got the new Taig chuck, there was a problem with not many threads being engaged. So, I: 1 - Attached my Sherline 3 jaw chuck to my Sherline lathe 2 - Chucked in some 1" CR steel into the 3 jaw chuck 3 - Turned down the diameter so that the rod was concentric 4 - Attached the 4 jaw chuck and made it concentric 5 - Faced off the back to reduce the depth of the register This seems to work pretty well. Quite happy with the performance of the chuck. I missed the rest of the discussion, and I hope no one takes offence to my words if I repeated anything. ------- Re: Chuck Adapter [taigtools] Posted by: "Dean" deanofidx~xxyahoo.com Date: Sun May 13, 2012 2:48 pm ((PDT)) Don wrote: > The Sherline Rotary table comes with an adapter that allows you to screw on a 3 or 4 jaw chuck to the face plate. The thread is right for a Taig Chuck, or other nose tools, but the threads are only long enough to get 1 to 1 1/2 turns. The 3/4-16 threads need to be 1/2" long. Does anyone know of an version with longer 3/4-16 threads so I can use my Taig tools on the rotary, or do I need to remember how cut threads on the big lathe again? < Don, Taig makes one that has correct length threads for Taig chucks. Part number 1221. Dunno if it fits the Sherline RT. Here's a link to a pic so you can have a look at it: http://www.cartertools.com/1221.jpg Dean ------- Re: Chuck Adapter Posted by: "alighazizadeh" alighazizadehx~xxaol.com Date: Sun May 13, 2012 3:14 pm ((PDT)) Hi. The Sherline adapter is of no use for Taig chuck as the Taig relies on the shoulder-register at the end of the spindle nose for alignment of the chuck. Dean's suggestion is the cheapest and the most convenient option and it should mount on the Sherline rotary using the two supplied screws and nuts or any other rotary with 4 slots in the face but not the ones with 3. Given the price and the convenience I wouldn't bother with thread cutting. Once you have centered the adapter you could just leave it there for future use. Regards, A.G ------- Re: Chuck Adapter Posted by: "Shawn Woolley" shawnwoolleyx~xxmac.com Date: Sun May 13, 2012 3:33 pm ((PDT)) The chuck adapter #1221 is a great accessory; not only does it do what it's supposed to do. But I bought three extra ones and I have them mounted with brass wood screws to the side of the Gerstner style lower cabinet I use to hold my lathe and I just mount whatever chucks I'm not using on those adapters there; safe, easy to find, and there's no way of knocking them off a shelf or dinging them in a drawer. I can also get stock set up in all of them for making a bunch of beads or whatever and then just grab and mount the chuck when needed. ------- Re: Chuck Adapter Posted by: "Don" Donx~xxCampbell-Gemstones.com Date: Sun May 13, 2012 5:23 pm ((PDT)) Guys, I have the Taig adapter, but I wanted something like the Sherline, one that screws into the center of the rotary table and then the chuck screws to it. Basically a 3/8" thread, with a registration ring to the Rotary table. Then 3/4 x 16 threads above the table. I don't want a permanent attachment, nor one that is going to take forever to center each time I use it. Since I posted the question, I have one almost finished with the longer threads, and a 3/4" reregistration ring for the Taig chucks. The only thing left is to cut the 3/4" threads. Won't get it finished today, got to take the wife out for M.D. dinner. Don ------- Sherline Tailstock on Taig lathe [taigtools] Posted by: "anchornmx~xxyahoo.com" Date: Mon Jul 16, 2012 4:01 pm ((PDT)) I recall seeing a nice Sherline tailstock on a Taig. I don't know if it is a commercial modification, or home-brew. I have the stock tailstock, and I hate it. Seems like all the good accessories are MT2, and building an adapter for MT2 or something like that would eat-up valuable time. I also seem to recall a penturning supplier that has a live center for the Taig. I am between projects for a week or so, and would love to upgrade -- any suggestions? ------- Re: Sherline Tailstock on Taig lathe Posted by: "Tony Jeffree" tonyx~xxjeffree.co.uk Date: Mon Jul 16, 2012 4:16 pm ((PDT)) The centre height of the Taig is 1/2" more than the Sherline, so the simple approach would be to make an adapter base that fits the Taig dovetail & allows the Sherline tailstock to mount on top. You could probably modify the standard Taig riser block to achieve this. Regards, Tony ------- Re: Sherline Tailstock on Taig lathe Posted by: "alighazizadeh" alighazizadehx~xxaol.com Date: Mon Jul 16, 2012 5:59 pm ((PDT)) Hi, I have both a Sherline and a Taig lathe. I prefer the Taig version. Try and use a Sherline tailstock and see how you feel about it. Sherline tailstock: Very small, number 0 MT with no chance of adjustment unless you buy the adjustable tailstock arbor, very expensive. The Taig is very adjustable, quick to use and at least on my lathe it seems very accurate once it has been aligned with the headstock. If you need more room on the lathe you just slide the tailstock off or you can reverse the tailstock to gain more length of the bed. No chance of these with the Sherline version. The only modification the Taig tailstock needs is the replacement of the awful 1/8" thin steel handle which is a disgrace. For anything else it is much more flexible than the Sherline offering. Regards, A.G ------- Re: Sherline Tailstock on Taig lathe Posted by: "Shawn Woolley" shawnwoolleyx~xxmac.com Date: Mon Jul 16, 2012 6:06 pm ((PDT)) I think the taig Tailstock handle is bizarre myself. I think it's the first thing everyone modifies. Ive always wondered why they don't make one with a real handle rather than a flat piece of stock that looks like a temporary alignment brace or something. The only thing that surprises me more is that I've never seen a after- market supplier either? I would think somebody could make a fairly good bit of money making tailstock handles and a dividing plate for aftermarket sales. ------- Re: Sherline Tailstock on Taig lathe Posted by: "Steve Wan" stewanx~xxgmail.com Date: Mon Jul 16, 2012 11:35 pm ((PDT)) Hi Anchor-man :) I replaced my Sherline tailstock with a Cowells one (cast iron) and able to adjust the alignment. Though more expensive but worth it. Making the base needs some careful thinking and planning. Google Tryally Technology, watch Luiz make his tailstock support. Now my Sherline tailstock is reserved for indexing on the mill. Steve W. ------- Re: Sherline Tailstock on Taig lathe Posted by: "alighazizadeh" alighazizadehx~xxaol.com Date: Tue Jul 17, 2012 3:17 am ((PDT)) Hi Shawn, What I did was cut a round piece of Al stock of 1" diameter and 7" long, knurled the business end of it and just screwed it on to the original handle after milling a 1/8" slot in the middle to take the handle. It has worked well since and it is very comfortable to hold. Many such mods are documented on the web if one searches for them. The Taig lathe is a very capable and versatile machine with quite a few idiosyncrasies as well but nothing major just what I'd call "cosmetics". There is an after market dividing plate for the Taig and if you search through the pages of the Carter Tools you may find it. Regards, A.G ------- Re: Sherline Tailstock on Taig lathe Posted by: "jerry kieffer" jlkiefferx~xxcharter.net Date: Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:47 am ((PDT)) The Sherline tailstock is utilized differently In the Sherline than in a Taig. On the Sherline, the headstock is rotated for taper cutting with or without centers so no tailstock adjustment is required. On the Taig, conventional side to side adjustment is provided for taper turning. The Sherline tailstock is not adaptable to a Taig lathe without major modification that would require removing most of it. However, personally I find conventional calibrated leadscrew and MT mounting to be far more practical, accurate and efficient with the exception of drilling holes in glass/Optics. The one thing that has always been an issue with the several Taig Lathes I have owned over the years has been Tailstock repeatability when it is moved. The Tailstock mounting section is very short when considering the width of the bed. On one Lathe, this issue was resolved by adding a .500" section to the rear of the tailstock mounting block making the overall length just over 2.000". While less of a problem or no problem for general machining normally done on these machines, if a high degree of accuracy is desired, it will need be resolved. If one is making modifications, it is a simple upgrade to include needed or not. All and all, I think you will find that machining a new tailstock including features desired will be more practical than modifying a Sherline Tailstock. Jerry Kieffer ------- Re: Activity??? [taigtools -- use Sherline Motor on Taig Mill and Lathe] Posted by: "alighazizadeh" alighazizadehx~xxaol.com Date: Sat Oct 13, 2012 2:46 pm ((PDT)) Hi, After having wrestled with the stock Taig motor for both my lathe and the mill for about 6 months, I eventually fitted the Sherline motor and the controller to both. It is as if they were made for each other, a bit pricy but well worth it I think. Regards, A.G ------- Re: Activity??? Posted by: "alighazizadeh" alighazizadehx~xxaol.com Date: Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:11 pm ((PDT)) > did you use the taig spindle on your lathe, then? Hi, In both cases I just machined a small pulley out of Aluminium and used a threading tool to make the groove for the Taig belt. I then drilled and reamed the pulley to mount the Sherline shaft. Using the Taig pulley set on the head stock allows for a little more speed flexibilty. I have used the Sherline mounting bracket and a 1/2" spacer block of aluminium and the motor and the bracket fit on the T slot on the back of the head stock (side of the head stock in mill case). I use the short belt that comes with the mill for both the mill and the lathe. Regards, A.G ------- Re: Stirling Engine with Magnet Return Stroke [SherlineCNC] Posted by: "Andrey Lipavsky" andreyx~xxessexjewelers.com Date: Tue Dec 10, 2013 6:26 pm ((PST)) Hi Ken, How did you modify a Taig ER16 collet set to work on Sherline? I have an ER11 set that I would like to use, if an adapter is available. Sincerely, Andrey Lipavsky www.EssexJewelers.com ------- Re: Stirling Engine with Magnet Return Stroke Posted by: "Ken Condal" kencondalx~xxyahoo.com Date: Tue Dec 10, 2013 6:44 pm ((PST)) Hi Andrey, Taig tooling uses the same 3/4-16 thread to the spindle as Sherline, but the Taig machines have a longer shoulder. All you need to do is face (on the lathe) the Taig nut so it matches the depth of a Sherline nut. It's hard to explain, but if you had the two tools in front of you it would become obvious how to fix it. There are numerous articles on the Internet that explain this simple procedure. Ken ------- Taig arbors [SherlineCNC] Posted by: "toolznglue" toolzngluex~xxsbcglobal.net Date: Wed Mar 5, 2014 6:27 am ((PST)) On Mar 5, 2014, at 3:34 AM, SherlineCNCx~xxyahoogroups.com wrote: > If you are unhappy with them, another source of blank arbors are the > ones sold by Taig (part number 1132) although you have to do a little > work on these to make them fit a Sherline spindle. What mods are required to make the Taig arbors work on the Sherline mill? I thought that both were threaded 3/4-16 and were interchangeable. Thanks, Jerry Jankura ------- Re: Taig arbors Posted by: "Martin Dobbins" trainnutzx~xxyahoo.com Date: Wed Mar 5, 2014 6:48 am ((PST)) Hi Jerry, Yes, the threads are the same, but the Taig arbor has a longer unthreaded area closest to the spindle, so if you use it as is it will only engage on one or two threads. Some of this unthreaded area needs to be removed and then either flats for a wrench or a hole for a tommy bar is required so you can remove the arbor from the spindle. This page from Dave Hylands shows the flavor of what is required, although he is working on a Taig saw arbor, the modifications to the blank arbors would be similar: www.davehylands.com/Machinist/Modifications/Taig-Slitting-Saw-Arbor/ Hope that helps? Martin ------- Re: Taig vs sherline mill [TAIGTOOLS] Posted by: "Jake Horky" jacob.horkyx~xxgmail.com jakehorky Date: Wed Jan 28, 2015 6:27 am ((PST)) > Juan - talk to me about mounting the Sherline rotary table to the > Taig...what's involved? I did what Nick did: http://www.cartertools.com/srtta.html It works great! Jake ------- DC drive for Taig lathe [TAIGTOOLS] Posted by: rap6404x~xxyahoo.com rap6404 Date: Wed Apr 1, 2015 4:17 pm ((PDT)) Can anyone tell me if the Sherline variable speed DC motor is powerful enough for all turning situations on the Taig lathe. I see that a lot of folks have installed it but it is a fraction of the horsepower of the treadmill motors the others have installed. I realize that some motor controllers sense the load on the motor and adjust their output to maintain constant speed ( provided that the motor has the capability). I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has done these conversions. ------- Re: DC drive for Taig lathe Posted by: "James Eckman" ronin_engineerx~xxcomcast.net lost90804 Date: Thu Apr 2, 2015 7:56 am ((PDT)) > Can anyone tell me if the Sherline variable speed DC motor is powerful > enough for all turning situations on the Taig lathe. Haven't had any issues with mine, works great! Jim ------- Re: DC drive for Taig lathe Posted by: "Forrest A" atkinonx~xxhotmail.com atkin_on Date: Thu Apr 2, 2015 8:34 am ((PDT)) Plenty of power. Both ways you need to cobble the motor onto the lathe. I have a Taig with the tread mill motor and the limiting factor is the drive belt. Comparing the Sherline I also have, the power seems to be about the same given the difference in power transmission. The Sherline motor setup has a bigger belt thus giving a more positive drive. The treadmill motor setup could be as cheap as free if you go shopping at the curb. A little mod to the driver board from your curbside pick and you are making chips with a cheap smile on your face. The Sherline motor set up will cost you some fun money. ------- Re: DC drive for Taig lathe Posted by: editorx~xxmodelenginebuilder.com mrehmus Date: Thu Apr 2, 2015 9:44 am ((PDT)) I have both a Sherline lathe and a TAIG mill with the Sherline motor and headstock. The motor is a much stronger solution that the stock TAIG motor on the mill. I have never stalled the motor on the lathe. I do have reports that when the riser blocks are installed on the lathe, that it becomes a bit shaky and at that point, with a large workpiece, the motor might not be enough. But that is an extreme condition. My only observation is that, at least with the standard headstock/motor, the combination does not turn fast enough for small diameter parts. ------- Re: DC drive for Taig lathe Posted by: "Ian Newman" ian_newx~xxyahoo.com ian_new Date: Thu Apr 2, 2015 12:38 pm ((PDT)) Hi, I would not worry about the views of people who convert to a "treadmill" sized motor -- such a drive source is quite capable of tearing Taig apart... All the best, Ian ------- Re: DC drive for Taig lathe Posted by: "Luc" salutluc2004x~xxyahoo.ca salutluc2004 Date: Thu Apr 2, 2015 3:03 pm ((PDT)) Well I did one of those conversion Treadmill motor and controller on a Taig and it's the way to go. For those saying it's an overkill, simply don't know how to handle power. Simply make a pulley that would use the same original belt your Taig came with. If for some reason it jams up (cutter in the chuck) the belt will slip and it does have a safety restart. You must restart from zero 0 RPM and increase. The best part, you can get a used treadmill for 50.00. enjoy Luc G ------- Mounting a Sherline Motor on a Taig headstock. [sherline] Posted by: jlkiefferx~xxcharter.net n2562001 Date: Sun Sep 27, 2015 1:18 pm ((PDT)) From time to time there are questions on mounting a Sherline Motor on a Taig headstock both Lathe and Mill. I have not read the latest thread, so if I am repeating anything disregard. If mounted in the same manner as mounted on a Sherline, it is quite simple. First, buy the motor with controller, spindle and motor pulley plus "L" shaped mounting bracket and belt -- all Sherline. Mount as follows. On the New Taig solid one piece Headstock. (1) Mount "L" shaped bracket on the back of the headstock using Taig's square nuts in the raised "T" slot. (2) Bore the spindle pulley from 9/16" to 5/8". (3) Mount and adjust per Sherline instructions. The Older split Headstock (1) Mount "L" shaped bracket on the back of the headstock by drilling and tapping for the 10/32 mounting screws. In this case, the headstock will only allow for threaded holes of about 1/4" deep, so I have added two extra screws for a total of four. Overkill but what can I say. You will also need to add a 3/8" spacer between the headstock and the mounting bracket. Items Two and three are the same as above. Jerry Kieffer ------- ------------------------------------------------------------------ This is just one of some 80 files about machining and metalworking and useful workshop subjects that can be read at: http://www.janellestudio.com/metal/index.html ------------------------------------------------------------------