Here are many users' experiences finding and/or making appropriate parts for the Atlas lathes (and sometimes Atlas mills and shapers). Many Atlas models were sold by Sears under the Craftsman brand name, and in the United Kingdom as Acorn brand. There are some repair discussions about the nuts involved for threading half-nuts or split-nuts in the text file "Thread Dial and Half Nuts" Also, there are discussions in the text file "Atlas Repair or Fitting" as to how some parts may be repaired or made from scratch. And there are further discussions about Atlas or similar machines' bearings and spindle problems in the "Bearings and Bushings" file. New Atlas lathe, mill, and shaper parts are still available from Clausing. (ATLAS BOUGHT CLAUSING, NOT the other way around, and then adopted the more upscale Clausing name.) You need to get to know that fine lady, Jolene Olds, or one of the good folks at Clausing Parts & Service Dept in Goshen, IN. (800) 535-6553 infox~xxclausingsc.com http://www.clausing-industrial.com/service-std.htm And their good copies of manuals and current price lists are must-haves. While some other dealers carry Atlas parts, they get theirs from Clausing and usually mark them up a lot. Note: There is a list on-line of Atlas Technical Bulletins for the 6, 9, 10, and 12 inch lathes along with the Atlas horizontal mill that can be seen and printed free at: http://www.atlas-press.com/servicebulletins.htm#General Bulletins If the machine was also sold by Sears under their Craftsman name, you have the added advantage of looking up parts on-line at the Sears site; and you can print out the parts lists. http://www3.sears.com/ A quote from Sears' site: >Most parts are sold as a quantity of one. In some instances a part description will include a quantity in parenthesis. The number inside of the parenthesis represents the total number of pieces to be ordered for that particular part. If verification is required for the number of parts to order, please call 1-800-252-1698 or email partsdirectx~xxcustomerservice.sears.com for further assistance.< Then there are other vendors that make new parts that may be modified or adapted to use on an Atlas. Or you can make parts like rests yourself. Used parts are often available from machinery dealers (see metalworking magazines' ads) or at on-line auctions. Particular caution must be used for internet transactions to be sure the part being sold is really the correct one for your machine. Often the vendor of a machine part knows little to nothing about what exactly he is selling. NOTE TO FILE: The first 2 messages are way out of date-order but will answer some of the basic questions by new owners of a 6" and help them to figure out which one they really have. There is much more information on 6" lathe model numbers at the start of the "Atlas 618 Gems" text file here. The identically featured versions of the Atlas 618 and the 6" Sears Craftsman 101 will share all parts and accessories. Caution must be taken in that there are spindle variations within the 618/101 lines. Some have bronze bearings, characterized by a split headstock casting sandwiching this bearing type. Those with no split have roller bearings. Some 618/101 had a spindle thread of 1" diameter and 8 threads per inch (1" X 8 TPI), while later production went to 1" X 10 TPI. Make sure you know which spindle thread you have before buying a chuck or accessory that threads onto the headstock spindle; thread gauges are inexpensive and can often be bought locally. The only (!) parts the Atlas-made 618/101 have in common with the AA-made 109 are the change gears. Generally the other 109 parts (NOT Atlas) are available from Sears or from machinery dealers parting out old 109s or even making replacement parts. If you got to this file directly from my HOME PAGE, return there by using your browser's back button. BUT if you came to this file as the result of a web search engine, see more than 70 additional files on my home page Machining and Metalworking at Home http://www.janellestudio.com/metal/ SAFETY WARNING BEWARE: DO NOT ASSUME that any subject matter or procedure or process is safe or correct or appropriate just because it was mentioned in a news/user group or was included in these files or on this site or on any other web site or was published in a magazine or book or video. Working with metals and machinery and chemicals and electrical equipment is inherently dangerous. Wear safety devices and clothing as appropriate. Remove watches, rings, and jewellery -- and secure or remove loose clothing -- before operating any machine. Read, understand and follow the latest operating procedures and safety instructions provided by the manufacturer of your machine or tool or product. If you do not have those most recent official instructions, acquire a copy through the manufacturer before operating or using their product. Where the company no longer exists, use the appropriate news or user group to locate an official copy. Be careful -- original instructions may not meet current safety standards. Updated safety information and operating instructions may also be available through a local club, a local professional in the trade, a local business, or an appropriate government agency. In every case, use your common sense before beginning or taking the next step; and do not proceed if you have any questions or doubts about any procedure, or the safety of any procedure. Follow all laws and codes, and employ certified or licenced professionals as required by those laws or codes. Hazardous tasks beyond your competence or expertise should also be contracted to professionals. Let's be really careful out there. (c) Copyright 2003 - 2008 Machining and Metalworking at Home The form of the collected work in this text file (including editing, additions, and notes) is copyrighted and this file is not to be reproduced by any means, including electronic, without written permission except for strictly personal use. ======================================================================== Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 05:12:02 -0800 (PST) From: helpx~xx4mtool.com Subject: Re: My Atlas 6" This is the more common Atlas, referred to by people on this list as an Atlas 618. This is also known as a Craftsman 101.___ lathe (6" size). The Sears 101.xxxxx numbers are the Atlas company ones, and the Sears 109.xxxxx numbers are the AA company ones. Regards, George O'Connoe georgex~xx4mtool.com ------- Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 15:45:27 -0000 From: "speedphoto300" Subject: Re: My Atlas 6" The later Atlas 10100 is also known as the 6 inch mark II or "square head", Sears sold this one as model 101.21200. The earlier, and more common, Atlas model 618 was made from 1937 to 1974, sold by Sears as 101.07301 (bronze spindle bearings), and 101.21400 (roller bearings). You'll see all of these discussed here. Joe ------- Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 20:16:59 -0400 From: "Mike Spring" Subject: Re: 0 Morse taper For all the AA109 owners, the following companies have MT0 accessories: Grand Tool Supply (201-342-6900 no web site that I know of) sells MT0 centers: carbon 008-200 $2, HSS 008-000 $5, carbide tipped 008-100 $9, in their fall 99 catalog ($50 minimum order or $10 handling charge). Campbell tools (800-878-8562 web site www.campbelltools.com) sells MT0 centers: carbon 0LC-C $6.25, HSS 0LC-HS $9.5, carbide tipped 0LC-CT $16.75. They also handle all the Sherline accessories which includes: MT0 centers live and dead, MT0 arbors to both 3/8 and 3/4 threads for mounting chucks as well as chucks with the 1/2-20 threads. The Sherline centers are shorter than the others, but still seem to work ok. Just be sure you get the MT0 part numbers (Sherline tailstock), they also carry MT1 stuff for the Sherline lathe headstock. Check out Sherline's web site, www.sherline.com - lots of helpful hints there as well as information on their various accessories. Taig tools sells some nice small 3 and 4 jaw chucks, but they are 3/4-16 threads and would need an adaptor or larger spindle. One of the group members, Nick Carter, is a Taig dealer and was very helpful to me. ------- Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 15:52:45 -0600 From: Bill Williams Subject: Re: #0 morse taper fnkbrinkx~xxwctc.net wrote: > Where can I get a # 0 morse taper dead center to fit the Craftsman > 109 Lathe? Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks. If you have a working lathe it is pretty easy to turn your own. The taper is .05205 per inch. Small end is .252. Big end is .3561. If you have an existing tool with the right taper things are even simpler. Set it up between centers then adjust the compound until an indicator doesn't wiggle much as you move transversely along the taper. Chuck up some CRS (Cold rolled steel here) or drill rod and make chips. It is easy enough that I find myself making all sorts of arbors and stuff that will just plop into the headstock taper - #3 MT of the 12 inch machines. Good luck! wms ------- Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:33:05 -0800 From: Frank Evan Perdicaro Subject: Thoughts on follower rest My Atlas 10" came to me with a steady rest. Once and while I have need for a follower rest, but I do not have one. Given that I have a mill it will be pretty easy to make a follower rest, so I'll probably do that some time. But I was thinking about the contact surface of the rest. My steady rest uses brass inserts to make a plain bearing contact. It should be easy to use rotary bearings instead. Yes, this will reduce the usable radius of the rest some. My thought for both the follower and steady rest is to make an insert that uses Rollerblade ABEC 5 bearings for direct contact to the workpiece. These bearings are small, high quality and easy to obtain. Each one can probably be used to apply 100 lbs pressure Used in pairs the will be more that adequate. For a follower rest I envision making up something like a knurl tool that has Rollerblade bearings where the knurl cutters would normally be. Can anybody see any problem using these semi-disposable bearings in this application? ------- Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:40:31 -0800 From: "Bob May" Subject: Re: Thoughts on follower rest There's a lot of bearings out there that can probably handle higher loads for less cost than those bearings although using a sealed bearing is a good idea. You may have to build a bit bigger to support a piece but you shouldn't have to limit yourself to something of smaller cap. than the brass bearing one you have now. Personally, I have always been supprised that no manufacturer that I have seen is making ball bearing rests. They all seem to be plain bearing ones. Bob May My new web space address is http://webu.wigloo.com/bobmay/ or http://nav.to/bobmay ------- Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 12:58:38 -0500 From: "ebower" Subject: Re: Thoughts on follower rest Frank, I have made steady rests and follower rest (special designed) in the past. The only problem you will have is the following: The steady rest is stationary. It does not move over the part being machined. Using either bearings or brass pads will only mark the part in an area that you are going to machine. If you use it on a finished surface then light polishing, using a scotchbrite type pad, will remove the brass deposited by the pads. No problem. The follower rest, however, moves over the part as the carriage is moved. The follower rest is to be reset each time you are cutting. The bearings are set parallel with the centerline. The will cause the bearing to rub the surface, e.g., burnishing a part. If for some reason that the bearing seizes up, then the part will be marked or bent. If you are cutting in a direction that the follower rest is already set for depth, then you run the chance that the part will be marked by the bearing. (I have seen problems in the past, where I used to work, that a seized bearing has ruined a part and the whole part had to be replaced). Just my .02 as I used to work as a tool designer for a company. I worked there for 25 years and had to work with the shop as a designer. Earl bower machine ------- Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 12:32:04 -0600 From: Jim Irwin Subject: Re: Thoughts on follower rest Rollerblade bearings may work fine. Just remember the main thrust vectors they are going to have to resist and design your follower rest accordingly. Best regards, Jim Irwin ------- From: help... Date: Wed Jul 25, 2001 9:15 am Subject: Source for atlas parts I am a recent subscriber to the list (wished I'd known about it earlier!), -but we have are a machine shop and manufacturing facility who use (3) 618 atlas lathes in our shop. We make or contract to be made (out of need) accessories for these lathes (as well as some other small lathes, as well as other things (sheet metal brakes and accessories for cutoff bandsaws). These Atlas suitable items include tool blocks for 3/8" (or 10mm) bits, boring bar holding blocks, 1"-10 threaded backplates, and a unique radiusing fixture, which as far as I know, no one else makes. We regularly offer for auction on eBay (user name forem), these and other items. You can view pictures of the same items there. We intend to soon offer more parts (plastic and brass gears to replace the original zamak ones, a cross slide table, and others) Overall, these lathes offer a lot for their value in the home or small shop. we do have an "under construction" website [www.4mtool.com) so don't expect too much from it, but I will timely answer questions posted to us (allow a couple of days). We have simple data sheets which we can email for those who so desire. I am sorry if this sounds like a solicitation, but it is a hobby which got out of hand. We also buy parts and even junkers for these units. Regards, George O'Connor ------- From: sleykin... Date: Wed Jul 25, 2001 8:39 pm Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Source for atlas parts Welcome George! I have bought a few things from you on e-bay and am very satisfied. You do nice work and the saw feed attachment is like getting a whole new saw! I can't believe how much longer the blades last. I did change out the valve for a one way type that makes it even easier to use. Any chance of turning out some of those parts for the bigger atlas lathes? The ball turning tool looks like it would work great. I have a 12" now and I sold the 6" or I would have one of those radius fixtures already :) Sorry if this is a bit off topic (the bandsaw downfeed) but I have been so impressed with George's operation I couldn't resist. Glenn Neff Medford, OR ------- Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 19:15:45 -0000 From: "Horace Steven" Subject: Great Idea, I posted 2 photos to Photo file area... of my 10" steady rest, I had more but didn't want to use up all the space, I used 3% of the space with 2 photos. The steady was made from 1 3/4" thick alum I got as scrap! and milled on a milling machine using a rotary table. Talk about chips! buckets full! It works well, the fingers are 3/4" brass, I had intended to make a set of 3/8" ones also but never needed them so haven't. The small clamp pieces that lock the fingers are relieved so they touch only on each end, to clamp more firmly in the middle of the finger. The four 1/4" holes are where it was bolted down to the rotary table, during final milling of the interior bore and the outer shape. The hinge is milled from the solid, it could have been made more easily in several pieces, but I did it when I first started, not after I got tired and cut corners as I did at the end. It could be made from much thinner aluminum, 1" would be fine. The adjusting rods are 6" long carrige bolts, they are threaded full length, have round smooth heads that fit into a drilled hole and run on the 135deg drill point angle. They are held in place by a press fit bushing, the square shank area turned round to suit. Steve ------- Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 20:23:24 EDT From: catboat15x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Atlas lathe In a message dated 10/1/01, sleykinx~xxaol.com writes: > Fortunately with the flat ways on the Atlas lathes building a steady is > pretty simple. Nothing is really criticle on the steady rest as > you adjust the fingers to center the work anyway. When I had to face off the end of my boiler on my Atlas I made a temporary steady rest from plywood. Made an L shaped bracket and clamped the bottom of the L to the bed. Then used a headstock center to make a starting mark and find the center. A drilled hole and a coping saw finished the job. Greased the copper tube and wood steady rest and did the job. John Meacham High Desert of California, Palmdale, Littlerock. ------- Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 11:05:43 -0500 From: "R and J Sport" Subject: Re: Re: 109 bent spindle At the time I had my 109 I had a new spindle made by Largen Machine Co. in Creighton, NE. He made the spindle with my choice of thread for about $25.00 and it worked and ran true for 3 years till I sold the lathe. Jim at R and J ------- Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 01:48:55 -0000 From: "John Lawson" Subject: Spindle for small 6" lathe Noticed the discussion and remembered the last spindle I made for mine. Following the directions in "The Amateur's Lathe" by Sparey, I turned one between centers, but made the flange that backed the chuck a much larger diameter and had it bear against a flat bronze washer of flange diameter. As memory serves, I made it from a piece of 1" diameter drill rod. Mine had a 1/2"-20 thread on the nose, and I made the threads on the tight side. I finished the turned bearing surfaces with 1200 grit abrasive paper. I also did not make the 1/4" spindle bore or the 0 Morse taper socket. I made a shallow 1/4"-20 thread socket in the nose and made up a 60 degree tip with wrench flats for turning between centers. I never missed the through the spindle capability, and the spindle proved to be very strong compared to the original spindle. I did not attempt to harden the part, fearing warpage. Later, I mounted a rack and pinion carraige advance (made from an r and p from an old machine of some sort), and though the crank turned in the wrong direction, not having enough room in the apron to mount an intermediate gear, it improved the usefulness of the little machine and was in daily use until I was able to buy a slightly larger Atlas 6" lathe. ------- Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 02:13:33 -0700 From: "Patrick Lee Rooney" Subject: Vertical Mill Attachments for Atlas I am a new member to the group, but have owned my QC42 and MF Atlas machines for nearly 15 years. Shortly after acquiring them in the eighties, I rebuilt both with parts from Clausing. Prices were reasonable, and the machines have served me well up to this point. Unfortunately, both are once again in need of servicing. Parts are no longer reasonable, but I bought the needed gears anyway. The new gears are all steel, while all my NOS gears from the 80's are that crappy composite pot metal (not really sure what that stuff is). My concern is in the mating of gears composed of two dissimilar metals. Has anyone experienced a problem with this? I would like both machines to last another 15 years. Also, I noticed a Marvin Vertical Mill attachment for my MF recently in the local paper. Although the price is way beyond me ($1500), the prospect intrigues me. Has anyone outfitted their mill with a similar setup? I have modern CNC machines, so re-machining an existing product would not be a problem. Just wondered if someone in this group has already had success with a similar project. My Dad doesn't understand why I put money into "those poorly built machines". I can't really explain in myself. They just have that certain appeal. Thanks in advance, Pat ------- Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 06:20:40 -0500 From: "Charles Brumbelow" Subject: Re: Vertical Mill Attachments for Atlas One of the Village Press magazines ran an article about adding vertical milling capability to the Atlas MF. It was reprinted as "Economy Substitute for a Bridgeport" in Metalworking Book Three. This device was basically a head with spindle attached at right angles to a tube which passed through the top hole in the mill (the one above the spindle) and had a motor on the other end. The book is available from http://www.caboosehobbies.com at a discount or from the publisher at retail. Attached for you, Partick, is a file from eBay showing the Atlas MF with -- apparently -- the factory vertical milling attachment. It was powered from the spindle. Sorry the pictures are not larger. Charles ------- Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 16:16:15 -0700 From: S1 Subject: Re: Vertical Mill Attachments for Atlas If the teeth are the same they will mate up and work like they should. Wear-wise however, the softer gear will wear sooner. I own a 7X10 mini lathe, and it has steel 20 tooth gears that mate up with 80 tooth Plastic gears and they mesh just fine. Just keep them lubed with a lubricant which doesn't attract dust or grime; periodically clean the gears of any swarf or chips; and you ought to be fine. Gabe ------- Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 14:28:09 EDT From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Vertical Mill Attachments for Atlas In a message dated Fri, Charles Brumbelow writes: << Attached for you, Partick, is a file from eBay showing the Atlas MF with --apparently -- the factory vertical milling attachment. It was powered from the spindle. Sorry the pictures are not larger ... >> As you mentioned before my present quote one or more of the Village Press magazines published one or more atricles on vertical milling adapters for the Atlas Mill. As far as I'm aware Atlas/Clausing never offered one of their own. The Marvin unit that was mentioned dates back to the early 50s and is one of several attachments they offered for the Atlas Mill. The other significant ones are a dividing head, based on the Brown & Sharpe principles, and a 6" rotary table using the same dividing mechanism as the Marvin Dividing Head. I have the Marvin Rotary Table with only one of the three dividing plates, and a casting plus drawings to make a replica of the Marvin Vertical Milling Attachment. I do not have the Marvin Dividing Head but would very much like to acquire one (at a reasonable price!). << Also, I noticed a Marvin Vertical Mill attachment for my MF recently in the local paper. Although the price is way beyond me ($1500), the prospect intrigues me. >> Regarding $1500 for a vertical attachment for the Atlas Mill, that's way out of line, for a Marvin unit or any other. (I realize Patrick wasn't planning on paying that and it seems unlikely anyone else in this group would do so either.) The Marvin unit is *extremely* limited. It has a 3/8" bore and setscrew for holding end mills so tooling options are limited, and it does not have an adjustable quill. This means that all depth of cut adjustments are made through raising and lowering the knee. It also means that, while in theory you can swivel the "vertical spindle" axis off the vertical, the reality is it's virtually unusable in anything but axial alignment with the vertical motion of the knee. Additional to the above limitations, the distance between the bottom of the vertical spindle and the work table is *very* limited so that once you've installed any tooling there's almost no room for a work piece. I've thought about making a riser block to fit between the column casting and the head casting to provide additional vertical clearance (this is sometimes done on Bridgeport-pattern mills). At the same time the head could be set back so that end mills or other tooling mounted in the standard horizontal spindle would have more working room. I haven't done any actual design work on such a riser block but I have a spare column casting and two spare head castings so I can at some point take the required measurements for such a project. I hope the above information is useful to people considering adding vertical milling ability to the Atlas Mill. And if anybody has a Marvin Dividing Head you're willing to part with please contact me off list at Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 20:05:58 -0000 From: "John Lawson" Subject: Living in the Past? Because of the content of some eMail responses I have received, I'm certain that many of the forumites who are looking for parts are either living in the past or in a dream world all their own. One person intimated that Sobel Machinery charged way too much for parts and accesories. Since I have been looking for and buying parts from wherever I can find them, I know for certain that Dave Sobel charges very reasonable prices for Atlas parts. Recently, a friend died and I sold his Atlas lathe for his widow. All but one of the "machinists" who responded tot he ad were trying to cheat the widow out of the machine by running it down and telling half-truths. They were thrown out on their ear. One gentleman knew the value of the machine and bought it for three thousand dollars (it had almost every attachment and tooling device made for the lathe.) When you consider that Atlas lathes are no longer made, and that each lathe parted out has one of each part, you get the message that the prices charged are not out of line. The only current small shop lathe available new is the 10" Southbend. They now cost in excess of eight thousand dollars STRIPPED, plus shipping and sales tax. (Nobody complaining about prices ever mentions shipping and sales tax.) But, there will always be cheapskates looking for something for nothing. In light of these facts, Dave Sobel, Barry Aronson and others who sell used parts are well within the range of reasonable pricing. Unless some of you have secret sources of supply. If you do, please share them with us. As for robbing widows, one recent incident locally involved a "Home Shop Machinist" who DEALS in used stuff but does not actually USE it, bought (I should say bamboozled) a machine tool from a lady and turned around the next week and sold it for three times the price without doing anything to it. If you want to deal in used machinery, go to your city, county and state tax offices and obtain the proper licenses, keep books and pay your taxes. There is no such thing as a "hobby machinery dealer." It is a wise thing to inventory your shop equipment, listing the latest fair market values in case you die suddenly. Meanwhile, you might lend your fabulous expertise to HELPING the widows instead of standing by while they are cheated. Machine tools don't eat anything. Tell the lady she can keep the equipment for months or years until somebody who will appreciate it answers her ad. And, the next guy I hear bragging about cheating a little old lady... ------- Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 15:48:05 -0700 From: "Patrick Lee Rooney" Subject: RE: Re: Vertical Mill Attachments for Atlas Hey Paul: Somewhat reluctant to participate for fear I might mis-speak. However, I did want to point out that I did swing by to check out the mill attachments. Included in the deal was a "Marvin Slotting Attachment", which appeared to be chain driven from a sprocket installed on the spindle. The vertical mill attachment utilized collets, and several of those were also included. The whole package went for the asking price, which in these parts is the equivalent of a house payment. No way to really justify that expense. But still, I found the attachments unique and fascinating. The new owner has plans to commit the attachments to Acad R13 for windows :-( I can never get that format to convert properly. Thanks to Anthony and all for the feedback. I truly appreciate the experience of this group. Patrick ------- Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 12:15:35 -0000 From: "wburn2000" Subject: Steady rest [atlas_craftsman] For the group members that are interested in the split ring set up that the homemade stedy rest was made from ,the shipping weight is six pounds. Anyone interested in a set of these plates, please contact me off list. The price is $5.00 each plus S&H. Pictures of this setup is in the photos section of the Yahoo groups A/C page.Thanks Wayne(rice)Burner ------- From: David Beierl Date: Wed Jan 23, 2002 12:14 am Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Do You Use Your Follower Rest? At 09:24 PM 1/22/2002, Jude Miller wrote: >I was curious what the feeling was here. Do those of you >with follower rests actually set them up and use them? >How often? How much compared to chuck only, tailstock, steady rest? I don't see what choice you have if you're working on something long and skinny, even though it's a horrible nuisance to reset the rest after every cut. If you did much of it I could see wanting one where you could push a button and have it magically take up the slack from the previous cut. I haven't needed it yet and I'm not looking forward to it either. I've used the fixed steady fairly often, it takes a lot of strain off the chuck and reduces chatter, also centers work for boring and so forth. It's a nuisance too, especially since the six-inch one doesn't fold open like the larger ones. david ------- Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 10:04:25 -0700 From: "Bob May" Subject: Re: I am in need of 6 gears Those things are kind of rare. You might want to consider making a whole set from Boston Gear gears by boring out the hubs of some compatible gears. Doing so can also do a gear so that you can do the metric threads also. Bob May http://nav.to/bobmay NEW! http://bobmay.astronomy.net ------- Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 17:27:52 -0500 From: "Fred & Liz Lusen" Subject: Re: miniature bearing suppliers Mark: Check out these two web sites also. http://www.reidtool.com/ http://www.smallparts.com/ Get both catalogs. They will do you whole bunches of good. Fred Lusen Coppell, Texas ------- Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 15:20:46 -0700 From: Frank Evan Perdicaro Subject: Milling attachment, and other things > I recently acquired a 12x24 Craftsman lathe. I am completely new to this thing and have many questions so you will be hearing a lot from me. After I learn how to use the lathe I hope to build some scale models. The two questions I have at this time are as follows. There is a milling attachment coming up at auction in the next couple of days. This is supposed to be in excellent condition. Question number one, Is this something I would likely have much use for? Question number two, What would be a fair price to pay for this? I realize that there are no absolutely correct answers to these, but I would appreciate as many opinions as possible. Thank You. < Occasionally I post this updated list of things you can buy from McMaster-Carr (and generally from MSC) that can be used to fix, upgrade, or equip the 10" and 12" Atlas lathes. A milling attachment is still available new. Parts List: McMaster-Carr part numbers for Atlas/Craftsman 10" Lathes Repair Parts: Bronze Bearing Assortment (45 pcs) 6388K13 $29.91 Babbit, lead base 8899K11 $13.73 Babbit, tin base 8900K11 $48.96 Twist Lock Belt, 60" by 1/2" 6173K47 $23.54 Oil caps, small 1231K1 $1.63 Oil caps, big 1231K5 $3.16 Oiler instead of big cap 1169K11 $9.31 Switch 7343K71 $2.84 Pulley, mult-step 6213K77 $12.70 Handwheels (tailstock, etc) too many to list Shim stock assortment 9301K2 $25.96 Acme Screw No slotted leadscrew available Tooling: Live Center, small 3229A21 $54.55 Live Center, big 3265A11 $207.58 Dead Center 3266A3 $40.66 MT Sleeve, 2/3 2976A25 $9.29 MT Sleeve, 1/2 2976A21 $7.12 MT Jacobs 3 adapter 2811A34 $14.11 MT 3 Albrecht 30075A46 $218.66 MT Drift 2 2796A12 $6.60 Cutters various Toolpost, Quick Change 31805A11 $216.34 Toolpost, wedge 3291A11 $17.63 Tool holder 3298A62 $91.25 Tool holder, thread 3310A12 $133.13 Tool holder, cutoff 3307A72 $96.25 Dogs, starting at 3283A12 $32.94 Milling attachment (Palmgren) 3199A2 $190.80 Tapping Collet 2MT, 1/4" 2731A46 $10.14 part numbers run up Tapping Collets 3MT, 5/8" 2731A57 $16.69 part numbers run up ------- Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 04:49:23 +0000 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Gear info? [atlas_craftsman] latheplaya wrote: > Does anyone know the pitch info for 10F gears? I need a couple and > would like to try a cross with Boston Gear or something. I believe it is 16 pitch, 14.5 degree pressure angle. I also believe Boston Gear has drop-in replacement gears, complete with the double keyway. Jon ------- Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 18:05:07 +0000 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Rocker for tool post panamint98 wrote: >I have a Atlas QC54 and found out I am missing the rocker for the tool >post. The lathe has a index tool holder but I would like to find the >rocker so I can use the tool post also. I think the part # is 9-41. If >anyone has a extra for sell or knows where to find one please let me know I have both the lantern toolpost and a QC toolpost. I have only had the lantern post on my lathes twice since I got the the QC, and that is over a period of 15 years! The rocker tends to slip under load, and that will end up showering you with metal fragments. Not fun at all. You could make these parts pretty easily. The concave washer can be turned with a pointed tool and rotating the compound rest. The rocker can be made from a ring of 1/4" (roughly) steel, and then cut apart. You'll get at least 3 or 4 of them from one ring. Jon ------- Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 04:14:59 -0700 From: "shalgs" Subject: Re: Handy Tool Post Grinder > AtlasTV48x~xxaol.com wrote: > >I made a 1/2" ID by 5/8" OD bushing to mount a Dremel Flex shaft > >attachment in my Phase II boring bar holder. I works incredibly well > >for ID and OD grinding. I just used it to recondition my 3 jaw > >chuck which now repeats to less than .001. I stuck a picture on the > >home page below. Sorry about the rotation. My lathe isn't really > >mounted on the wall. > > Dave... > > > > http://hometown.aol.com/atlastv48/myhomepage/index.html Here is another method for mounting a tool post grinder. I bought a Dremel holder at a garage sale,ground some flats on the holder shaft.mounted it in my lantern tool post holder on my Craftsman 6". It can be moved for alignment. Posted in picture sect. under toolpost grinder. dave ------- Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 05:15:05 -0000 From: "mikehenryil" Subject: Re: Tailstock Oiler In atlas_craftsmanx~xxy..., Chabannes Rene N Contr ASC/YCD wrote: > I'm missing the oiler on top of the tailstock of my 12x54 Atlas > Craftsman lathe. The picture in my parts list isn't clear enough to > make one. It doesn't appear to be an oil fitting like others on the > lathe. Could someone provide a description of this item? I think that's just a little well intended as a container for grease to be applied manually to the TS center. There was a ball-headed, metal applicator stuck in the top. When turning between centers, you'd use the applicator to dab a little oil from the well onto the center-drilled hole in the workpiece. Mike, near Chicago ------- Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 12:09:26 EDT From: catboat15x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Tailstock Oiler In a message dated 5/30/2002, jwaggonerx~xxcaci.com writes: > What I was told was that it is an "oil cup" with a little dip stick > that holds oil for the dead center. OK let me figure this out, had a question about the oil fitting on the tailstock. I assumed the question was about the oil hole near the handwheel end which I answered. Now we are getting into the old question about the larger hole near the front of the tail stock. That hole is for "white lead" which was the common lube for dead centers in the "good old days" before lead was a forbidden material. There was a dipper in that hole and I don't know what it looked like, but was used to dab a bit of white lead on the dead center. (I use moly grease now, but in the old days I did use white lead from the bottom of paint cans. How dumb I was in those days, even smoked tobacco, used carbon tet for spotting clothes, had PCB containing oils in my ham radio gear etc etc.) Maybe that is why I look 76 at only 23 years of age. Or the other way around. John Meacham California High Desert 12 inch Atlas, Minimill, rusty file ------- Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:35:42 EDT From: tadici283x~xxcs.com Subject: Re: Busted Leadscrew Bracket In a message dated 6/27/2002, k13x~xxbellsouth.net writes: > The cause of the failure puzzles me. I didn't crash the lathe. When I > started taking the bracket off, it turned freely on the leadscrew, > but I noticed where it had a lot of wear against the collar on the > left hand side of the bracket. I wonder if a chip could have wedged > into a gap and caused the collar to sieze against the bracket? I'll > look at it a little harder tonight. Indeed this seems to be a weak point whether it was designed that way or not I do not know I had to replace mine also and so have others that I know with the same kind of lathe, I had repaired mine for a while but installed the new one after all, I, like many, dread the gears on the *Other* end of the leadscrew getting messed up and need replacing, the cost is frightening I am sure (lead screw Engage box tapered gears). Anyway to sum up I do not think that there needs to be a reason for the part to fail, at least not in my case and others who own the same lathe, so don't feel bad. Chris of Bradenton FLA. ------- Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 19:07:36 -0500 From: "Koepke, Kevin" Subject: RE: Busted Leadscrew Bracket I just received one of these from Clausing. The old one was zamak die cast. The new one looks like it may be 6063 aluminum. Very good quality and definitely stronger. I found out, while purchasing items from Clausing, that the item quoted is not always the item received. The 618 cross feed screw cover, which only cost $1.00 (I found out why it's so cheap), is made of sheet metal, like on the newer 6". It still fits, and serves its purpose, but had I know they replaced the original with a new part, I may not have purchased it. Another item is the 9-42A locknut w/handle for the tailstock. Its replacement looks nothing like any of the originals used on any of their lathes. I made my own out of copper/nickel. You might think this is a stickler for detail, but the replacement looked fragile. Kevin ------- Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 17:38:09 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Change Gear Studs In a message dated Wed, 6 Nov 2002 21:41:19 EST, John Meacham writes: << Does anyone know if the orginal Sears Craftsman 101.041781 (that is the serial #) came with two or three change gear studs? I have two, and just ordered another stud, sleeve and spacer (I can get the nuts and washers at the local hardware) from Clausing. For some of the feeds you need to mount three change gears besides the one on the lead screw, and the lady at Clausing did not know if it came with two set ups for change gears although there is places for three on the banjo casting. Just curious as when I want to set up for really fine feed I need three gear combinations. >> John: It's my *strong* impression that any non-Quick Change Atlas built lathe of any size which was furnished with a 16/32 stud gear on the tumbler reverse was supplied with *only* two change gear stud assemblies. That's all you need for all the threading and feed setups listed on the chart that was supplied with the lathe. It's true that the MoLOaMT lists additional setups for odd threads, metric threads, and fine feeds. When required these lists specify that certain gears and the third stud assembly are *extra*. Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 18:54:20 -0600 From: "Clint D" Subject: Gave wrong email for Bowers [MAKER/SUPPLIER SOME 109 PARTS LIKE SPINDLE] Mike L I gave you a bad typo in Bowers email it is ebowersx~xxlcsys.net Clint ------- Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 22:38:17 -0000 From: "a6fac" Subject: Proposal Hello, guys, looking for advice, encouragement or discouragement. I am retired, and have been looking for some project to use over 40 years experience in manufacturing, procurement and engineering. Several months ago, I decided I really liked using and learning my Craftsman 109, and enjoy any involvement in the trade, totally different from my recently ended career. As a result, what really appeals to me is to become the premier source for parts and equipment in that area. To that end, I have negotiated deals with a local foundry, as well as long time suppliers for my businesses in machining, mill work and sheet metal. I have established a web site that will become active on January 1st and will expand to provide virtually every part, new and used, as well as improvements and tooling for the Craftsman and Atlas machines. I want to involve the group in a couple of ways. Obviously, you are a potential customer base. Secondly, some of you are, like myself, retired and looking for ways to supplement income. I want to give you a venue to sell parts you produce yourselves - a web exposure for pieces you make for these machines, or work related to them. I want to provide picture listings of equipment you want to sell and don't want to go the eBay route. This also provides you with a source of machines looking for new owners, good bargains you can hide on your credit card and hope the wife doesn't notice. I want the group to critique what I am going to offer. If Charlie buys a new toolholder I found from a source in Timbuktu, I want and expect him to tell everyone else it's a great deal, or to save their money, in which case it will disappear, right after Charlie gets his money back. The goal, for me, is not to build a "big business". Certainly, supple- menting a fixed retirement income with a little extra is an incentive. But there are some words that have to fit in: Honesty, Integrity, Fair Pricing, protection and guarantees for both buyer and seller. As brief as I could make it. Comments out of group to william.hardinx~xxverizon.net. As long as Jon doesn't object, you can tell me I'm an idiot in front of everyone else, also. Be critical in a constructive way. Thanks, Bill ------- Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 20:46:56 -0000 From: "ericgraham" Subject: Re: Steady rest In atlas_craftsmanx~xxy..., "Mike Bennett" wrote: > Hi, I have an Atlas 10 inch lathe. The steady rest that came with the lathe can handle up to I think 2 and 7/8ths inch diameter round stock. Did/does someone make a steady rest that can handle up to 6 inch OD material? I plan on making my own and I have some of the pieces. I just though I would ask. Regards, Mike Bennett www.mbrocketry.com Hi Mike: I'm in the process of making such a steady rest for my Southbend 9. I'd guess I have a few weeks to go before it is finished and then I can give you full details if you are interested. The basic design is simple, most parts made from 5/8 aluminum alloy plate (found on ebay). There is a 9" diam ring (6" hole) with three outward extensions. The extensions are augmented by screwing on a u-shaped bit of 5/8 plate and a 3/16" cover plate, so each extension becomes a socket for a 5/8 x 1 x 5" arm, the end of which has a roller bearing that touches the workpiece. The arms are driven in by threaded rods. I've used a mill drill and rotary table to make it, but it could be done with a jig saw. Good luck with yours, let me know how it turns out. Eric -------- Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 19:01:09 -0700 From: glenco2x~xxjuno.com Subject: Re: Digest Number 1195 Mike: I am making a steady rest for a 10 inch that will handle 6 inch diameter. I got the ring from Wayne Burner, on this list. He is a great guy. The ring is cheap. Cost more for shipping. Glen ------- Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 07:08:58 -0500 From: "Wayne" Subject: Re: Steady rest Mike: The rings and steady rest pictures are on the A/C groups (Yahoo Groups) page. Go to photos, then members projects, steady rest. The rings are a two piece held together with countersunk allen head cap screws. I found the center of the ring for the height of my head stock, then made a spacer that fit in between the ways, and drilled a hole through the spacer, in the middle so a clamping screw could hold it in place. The ring was milled with a flat on one side to sit on the spacer. I actually milled the flat first, then made the spacer. A matching hole was drilled in the ring. I TIG welded the two pieces together. I could send more pics if you like. The rings are $5.00, and you pay the shipping. I have made two of these, one for my 12" A/C, and one for my 10" Atlas. I no longer have the 12" or the steady, and now have an original steady for the 10", and will save the home made one for larger projects like you have in mind. Let me know if you are interested. Thanks, Wayne(rice)Burner Member of the VJMC ------- Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 05:18:19 -0500 From: "Wayne" Subject: Re: Hello from new member, need part info. John, Try this www.atlas-lathes.com Clausing has parts for our A/C lathes, I have bought new brass nuts from them, but I am going to try the nut repair trick that I have heard mentioned a few times on the list. I have tried a repair for a damaged gear that worked quite well. Take a thin brass strip as wide or wider than the gear itself and feed it through two gears of good shape mounted on the "harp or banjo" and hand feed the brass ribbon so you end up with a zig zag pattern that you can wrap around the damaged gear, fill with JB Weld, or similar type of epoxy, and hand file to fit after drying. Slick and cheap (cheap is good). Wayne(rice)Burner (bottom feeder) I am going to my local recycling yard today with a load of aluminum cans and some scrap copper, amd I'll be looking there for some brass or aluminum round stock to play with. ------- Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 10:20:38 -0800 From: Frank Evan Perdicaro Subject: A few thoughts on big steady On my long-term list of things to do is to make a larger steady rest. I too was going to start with plate aluminum, since good scrap is available locally (IMS in Irvine, and Schor in Placentia) in 5/8, 3/4 and 1" thickness. For contact with the turning stock I was thinking about using a pair of Rollerblade wheel bearings. For positioning of the arms, I was thinking about making threaded jaws, sort of like the inverse of a 4-jaw chuck jaw. If you had a LONG Acme tap, you could drill and tap a deep hole in a pair of jaws, then saw the pair apart right down the tapped hole. (Use a 10" table saw with a thin-cut carbide tipped wood blade, or perhaps one of the 7" Tenryu aluminum cut blades.) As far as cutting the thick aluminum into odd shapes goes, rough cut with woodworking saws, then make a scaled/shifted pattern of plywood so a wood router can be used to finish the edges. Use a 1/2" multi-flute endmill in a wood router, and take fine climb cuts. (Wear two layers of protection: plugs and muffs, glasses and a shield, full coverage clothing and leather welding gear.) All of this would be pretty easy in 5/8 6061 T6. ------- Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 00:04:20 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Lathe cleaning David Booth wrote: >At the risk of showing my ignorance, I'm going to ask - Is Zamak >a trademark name for what I am used to calling "pot metal"? Close. It is an alloy of Zinc, Aluminum, Magnesium and Copper. there are several Zamak alloys, and they are most certainly NOT the only Zinc alloys out there. There must be hundreds of registered alloys. I'm also not sure Zamak is similar to the "pot metal" that carburetors and other things are (were) made of. It is stronger than most of those metals, and Atlas states in their manual that is is twice as strong as cast iron. Jon ------- Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 05:39:44 -0500 From: David Beierl Subject: Re: Lathe cleaning Zinc-Aluminum-Magnesium-Kupfer (Copper) -- die-casting metal. Produces parts with excellent detail and dimensional accuracy. Zamak #3 is the most widely used die-casting material in US. Part cost is low in production quantities because machining not generally required and molds last forever. http://www.netmarketingservice.com/TechnicalReview/ ------- Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 14:45:41 -0500 From: "S or J" Subject: Re: Lathe cleaning [Zamak and Other Zinc Alloys] The alloy used by Atlas on some of their gears is far from what I would term pot metal. Some of the gears on my very old and hard-used 618 have definitely got some wear but will likely last for many more years before replacement. I have another example of a device produced during WWII that unfortunately used a particularly bad variety of zinc alloy for some of its precision parts. Fortunately this is not one of our toys, but a fairly complex sock knitting machine that the government issued for free (along with a fair quantity of yarn) to anyone who would knit so many pairs of socks for the government war effort. This device was acquired by my wife as part of her collection of sewing machines and other fabric devices. While most of it is intact and works, some mystery zinc alloy attachments have undergone a terrible transformation under the effect of time and normal household humidity. The heavy zinc parts are twisted and cracking, and flaking off big cornflake-sized chunks. A check on the web shows that these problems are common and not from any abuse of these castings. One of my projects (someday, I guess, sigh) is to machine or cast replace- ments. There is just enough left to measure and draw a pattern. So if you have a project to make something that you would really like to keep around for a long while, exercise caution and start with known-good alloys. Steve in Thunder Bay, Ontario ------- Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 11:54:54 -0800 From: "Bob May" Subject: Re: Lathe cleaning FWIW, most of the handles and other trim on cars used to be pot metal castiongs which got chromed so that they would last. If you see what is a cast part and it's chromed, it is probably pot metal underneath. In the late '60s, the car companies started using plastic instead of pot metal and they pretty much haven't looked back at pot metal since. Bob May http://nav.to/bobmay NEW! http://bobmay.astronomy.net ------- Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 16:35:09 -0500 From: "David Booth" Subject: Re: Re: Lathe cleaning [Zamak and Other Zinc Alloys] I have an RCA Loudspeaker in my antique radio collection which has the same problem. I've talked with many people (i.e. museum curators and fellow radio collectors) about this, and the general consensus of opinion is that the only thing to be done is stabilize the item by placing it in a controlled environment. The people at the Smithsonian Institution told me they experimented with various exterior coatings, with little or no success. Several people I spoke to said they have tried coating the inside of the casting (where it won't show) with clear epoxy, but of course that doesn't stop the exterior spalling. ------- Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 19:26:58 -0600 (CST) From: dswrx~xxwebtv.net Subject: Re: Re: Lathe cleaning [Zamak and Other Zinc Alloys] I have read... (model railroader magazine, i think) that when parts are cast, the purity of the alloy will affect the longevity of the casting. I have model locomotives made of this alloy (zamak) that are now 49 years old, and still as solid as the day they were made. I also have items cast with this same alloy that are mostly oxides and crumbling. This occurred in the range of 3 to 5 years after they were cast. (estimated) The parts on my 1955 Craftsman/Atlas are still in good shape. Leo (pearland, tx) ------- Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 00:13:59 EST From: LouD31M066x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Re: Lathe cleaning [Zamak and Other Zinc Alloys] Prewar die castings for Lionel Electric Trains had same problem. Postwar trains do not have the problem. Pot metal alloy apparently was whatever went into the pot and with passage of time bad effects show up. Louis ------- Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 12:01:53 -0500 From: "piggy" Subject: Re: Thanks for help on 101.07301 and new question For the info of lathe owners here, I will soon have the capability to make compound and cross slide nuts to fit existing screws. I can make nuts for screws as small as 1/2 10 acme and instead of tapping them with a pre- made tap I can thread them on my lathe to fit a slightly worn screw which results in no backlash which I like. In the near future I will also be making acme screws to fit if I have an example to copy. The need to do this came from my wanting to fix my atlas lathe and not wanting to spend the money for a new nut or nut/screw combo, so I learned to make a bit for internal acme threads of that small size. I will try soon to do a small write up on how to make the bit for those that want to try it, the first three bits I made did not work well but they worked. My 4th was a charm as it works fine. It is kinda tedious to thread that small hole lol. don ------- Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 15:39:45 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Re: METRIC Sun, 1 Dec 2002, Guillermo Contreras asked about metric gearboxes. I've quoted the various messages below. First point, I'd never heard of an Atlas metric gearbox. Having read the description it's apparent that, with the 9-position lever locked in one position, the gearbox is being used strictly as a range selector. This means that if you have the change gears set up to cut 3 mm pitch when the 5-position lever is in the "A" position, if you move to the "B" position it will cut 1.5 mm, "C" will cut .75 mm, "D" will cut .375 mm, and "E" will cut .175 mm. presuming that your lathe is equiped with longitudinal and cross power feeds they will be affected in the same way. Regarding which one position to engage with the right lever, it will be #1, for 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, and 128 TPI. In this position the gearbox has a 1:1 ratio after the range selection has been made with the left lever. So you will still have to change out change gears but with a metric lead screw you will be able to get a precise metric pitch instead of the approximations generated by the gear trains Atlas provides for use with an inch-based lead screw. By the way, what pitch is your new metric lead screw. I hadn't thought carefully about this prior to this discussion. There's a fair likelihood you chose 3 mm, better would be 2.5 mm, it works out better for the dividing and multiplying processes necessary to gear for other pitches. You've remarked on metric gearboxes having been available from South Bend and Boxford. In fact SB has a photo of such a gearbox in "How to Run a Lathe", and at one point I had access to a Boxford equivalent of that book which showed exploded views of the inch and metric gearboxes. This was very instructive to me, it made it clear to me that inch gear boxed use a dividing process to select between different pitches whereas metric gearboxes use a multiplying process. In an inch gearbox, after going through the range dividing process on the left lever, the right selector drives from a single constant range to the cone gears to select the fine ratio (16, 18, 20, or whatever). On the metric gearbox the cone of gears receives its drive directly from the range selector and the drive is from the cone to the output shaft through the gears in the selector lever. Because of these diferences an inch gearbox will never make a satisfacory metric gearbox except for the range selector function. And in addition to operating in the reverse mode of that which is appropriate to selection of metric pitches, or rather because of it, the gears in the cone are not correct for selection of metric pitches. I haven't thought that out carefully yet so I can't tell you what the appropriate gears would be. If you're determined to go for broke on the metric gearbox idea your best bet would be to find an SB or Boxford, as you've already tried to do, or to get the Modeltec articles on building a gearbox for the 6" lathe and re-engineer the design by scaling it up to fit the 12" and reversing the drive sequence of the right end of the mechanism so the drive ran from the cone gears to the output shaft. Regarding the threading dial, on their metric gearbox SB uses one with 4 different gear ratios, you should do a little research on that subject. Even if you use a single ratio threading dial, firstly you need to get a gear that will mesh correctly with your metric lead screw, though I'm not certain of the number of teeth it should have (maybe 20 or 40 for a 2.5 mm lead screw, maybe 24 or 48 for 3 mm, but as I said, I'm not sure). Then, as was suggested by another respondent, it's likely that if you always close the split nuts on the same mark you will probably pick up your thread correctly. For fine threads this might involve a rather long wait so you should do some research to determine what other marks are suitable for various pitches. This is getting a bit long now so I think I'll stop. I hope this has been useful information. If it generates more questions please ask, I'll try to be helpful. Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 23:43:30 +0100 From: "Guillermo Contreras" Subject: Re: METRIC Jean Claude: Thx for the info. I do have this supplement but I hate to have to reverse the spindle direction to come back to the starting point to make the next pass... For most of my jobs, I have managed to get by up to now but I have a job coming in that requires some 150 M30 threads! As for the metric QCGB, I do not agree; Atlas did offer these and they look exactly like the imp. boxes only that one of the selectors is in a "fixed" position (right selector but do not know in which pos.); Atlas even offer the feed selector chart plate, lead screw and nut assembly but at a price! I know that South Bend and Boxford also offered similar boxes but my quest for the past 5 years has not been successful. I did find a South Bend/Boxford metric box on ebay but was eventually out bid! ------- Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 19:14:02 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: METRIC I don't think you need to change the gearbox. It should have all the ratios you need. The leadscrew has to be changed, of course, and also the threading dial. I'm not sure what number of teeth would be best for the gear on the threading dial, since it is not based on the 8 TPI leadscrew for inch threading. You'd need to make up a new index plate for the QC gearbox that is marked in mm/thread rather than threads/inch. Jon ------- Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 19:18:32 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: METRIC You don't need to back up due to the gearbox, you need this due to the non-metric leadscrew pitch. If you put a metric leadscrew in there, you will no longer need to back up the lathe, as long as you get the threading dial figured out, too. Even mm pitches seem pretty simple, but some of the coarser threads might need you to engage only at certain positions of the threading dial. I suspect it very likely is the SAME gearbox, just with a different plate and a bolt somewhere to lock one of the handles. Jon ------- Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 03:17:12 -0000 From: "David J Hatzenbuhler" Subject: Re: METRIC If you have the metric leadscrew and half nuts you are most of the way there. Whether the gears are Module or Diamatral Pitch is largely irrelevant. The number of teeth in a ratio is what matters. The pitch of the leadscrew determines which thread system is the standard setup. Right now the lathe should cut metric threads but without the proper gear chart it is unknown what pitches will result from what gear lever combinations. The threading dial will still need the proper metric worm gear to mesh with your metric leadscrew. You shouldn't have to reverse the spindle with the metric leadscrew unless you can't get the right gear for the threading dial. You will need a revised gear chart. You may have to do a little math and make up your own gear chart especially if the metric leadscrew is an orphan part.... :-O Atlas/Clausing may have the gear chart plaques and the threading dial gear. I found and have since lost a description of how to use the 127/100 transposing gears to give accurate Metric leads with the Imperial leadscrew. The 127/100 gives you threads per cm so setting the gearbox for 5tpi would give you 5 threads per cm or .5 threads per mm. ------- Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 07:24:50 -0500 From: Chabannes Rene N Contr ASC/YCD Subject: RE: Re: METRIC Unless you have a long thread engagement or must be accurate over a lengthy span, using the right gears to approximate a metric thread should be adequate. Many foreign machines sold in this country over the years are really metric that approximate approximate english threads. I don't know how long a thread engagement it takes before you run into trouble. You'd run into trouble making a long feed screw for a mill, for example. We had three HES lathes and never had trouble with one diameter engagements. This could also be an issue if you need maximun strength. Rene N. Chabannes (Titan) ASC/YC - Production Operations C-17 SPO, WPAFB, OH 937-255-1042 (DSN 785-1042) ------- Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 22:45:09 +0100 From: "Guillermo Contreras" Subject: Re: Re: METRIC Anthony & co., pls continue. I have enjoyed all responses and this is how far I have gotten: - Atlas 3996. Well pointed out. The "metric" Atlas was in fact sold under refs. 3965 & 3975 the dif being in the bed length. - Lead screw pitch. 3/4 o.d. 2mm pitch (strange combination of inch/mm) courtesy of Clausing. Original replacements were still available several years ago. - Using the 127T conversion gear would not solve the problem entirely as I would still not be able to disengage the nuts. Back to square one though still cutting metric! - Though simple in concept, and wild, changing the lead screw/nut assembly whilst keeping the imp gear box might be a solution though I doubt it! - Gear type is irrelevant to the final displacement of the carriage once the nuts are engaged though I would opt for module 1.5 for the sake of smoothness and low noise. - I now have the break down of the gear box and it is the far right plunger assembly (p#10-1586 though this ref # does not show clearly) that remains fixed with a pin (p#568-036). I have not had the chance to study the breakdown but there seems to be more gears on the left hand cluster (5 Vs. 1). There is only 1 gear chart selection (p#130-071). This would conclusively show that, indeed, there was a specific metric lathe model. - Threading dial. Though extensive (and omitting the diagram that I made, though I could send it to those interested for further study) I will quote on a reply that I sent recently to a fellow ME in the UK regarding metric threading dials. This is my conclusion of several years of search and is a simplified version of a text found in some long forgotten (read lost) text book, not for the faint hearted! "...In principal, the procedure to follow is the same as you would using a lathe with an imp lead screw and its dial the only dif being that you need a cluster of gears as no one single gear will cover all the thread ranges and depending on the threading dial design, for some pitches you will not be able to find a match. Enclosed you will find the basic idea of what's involved and this should be adapted to your particular lathe thus no dim are given. You should keep in mind that using any graduation represents 1/8 of a turn, using the numbered graduations represents 1/4 using any opposite 2 represents 1/2 and using any single numbered mark represents a full turn. Calculating the combination of dial graduation / gear to use is somewhat of a trail and error exercise until you find the correct combination but once you have found these its a simple thing to make a chart for future use. First we must understand that the base pitch is the distance that the carriage will travel in mm when the lead screw has been engaged and this is the figure that we will be working with; taking this into account you can use the following formula Bp= Zt x Lsp x Dg Bp= Base pitch Zt= # teeth in gear Lsp= Lead screw pitch in mm Dg= dial graduation used i.e. 1/4, 1/2 or 1. Tp= pitch of thread to cut in mm Once you have have the Bp you plug into the following Bp / Tp = whole number If of the result of the above is a whole number, that is the correct combination of gear and dial gage setting to use. Sounds complicated but once you have made your chart it should be a piece of cake!!! Example: Tp to be cut: M3 Gear selected: Z14 Lsp= 6 Dg= 1/8 14 x 6 x 1/8= 10.5 ; 10.5 / 3= 3.5 So if we were to select any mark on the dial to engage our lead screw it would not work as the net result is not a whole number. Lets try using a dif mark on the dial keeping the rest of the details unchanged, say using only the numbered marks (1,2,3,4,): 14 x 6 x 1/4 = 21 ; 21 / 3 = 7 So, if we were to engage the lead screw on any numbered mark of the dial, the threading tool would enter the thread correctly...." I have never heard from this chap since and I presume he is also a bit puzzled and working on it. By the way, he does have the metric gear box (Boxford). Iam still looking for the owner of that elusive "metric Atlas" and it seems that I am far from finding him. Did Atlas/Clausing ever sell any metric units??? ... nice to see that this topic has stirred up such a response and I hope that the above will continue it. Rgds ------- Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 05:42:28 -0700 From: "Mike Bennett" Subject: Re: Steady rest Wayne, I think I may have ground what I was looking for. This one has a six inch ID and is reasonable priced. Now I just have to find someone with a mill here local to help finish the base. Thanks for your help. http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/MLA-9.html Regards, Mike Bennett ------- Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 11:10:13 -0500 From: "Bill Hardin" Subject: Website Hello, Group Most of you know that I am struggling to get a website up to support users of the Atlas and Craftsman lathes. A retirement hobby, if you will. Learning a new skill, like HTML, after Social Security, is in the "old dog, new tricks" category. In any case, my schedule is to be fully operational by January 1st. In the meantime, I invite you to watch me stumble by logging on occasionally www.homeshopsupply.com There is a place to comment and suggest, and there is a pretty picture of the nicest 109.20630 I've seen. I hope this will become a valued resource for many of you. Thanks, Bill ------- Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:44:14 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Re: An Atlas Timeline: Richard Stines In a message dated Tue, 10 Dec 2002 23:22:45 -0000, Art Volz in Metal_Shapersx~xxyahoogroups.com writes: << Click on the URL to see an interesting historical timeline constructed by Richard Stines on Atlas Press and Clausing-International: http://members.aol.com/plalbrecht2/atlashistory.htm >> Very interesting. One *major* omission is no mention of the Atlas 12" lathe. It would be very interesting if dates of production of specific model numbers of Atlas and Craftsman machines (as well as the other brands mentioned) could be inserted into the time line. A list of standard equipment and specs per model could also be added, maybe as clickable links. And dates when certain accessories and attachments were available. My primary interest is in the Atlas and Atlas-built Craftsman equipment but the information would also be good for the other product lines held by the corporation. This could be the start of some serious industrial archaeology. ------- Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 03:01:55 -0000 From: "jdmichael2001 " Subject: Re: Want to buy steady rest for 12" Atlas Michael: You might check the website at: http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/ where there is a casting kit for a steady rest. I've not bought anything from him (yet) but I've heard his products well spoken of, and on the phone he's personable and knowledgeable. Jan ------- Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 10:42:58 -0500 From: "Bill Hardin" Subject: RE: Craftsman Label >>> Hello, Does anyone have a good digital photo of the Craftsman label that appears below the headstock on the bed (109.20630)? I would like to make a replacment decal. The photo needs to be as square as possible to the front of the decal to get the proper shape, size and color. Also is the label the same on the Atlas Craftsman lathes? <<< I am having a number of those made, if you can hang on awhile. I also have a current label from another Craftsman product, if you are not a purist. Bill Hardin www.homeshopsupply.com Craftsman & Atlas Lathe Support ------- Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 22:20:32 -0000 From: "Ernest Lear" Subject: Re: Craftsman Label Get in contact with me direct at Ernestx~xxelear2.fsnet.co.uk. as I have product replacement decals 2" & 1" dia. for my lathe that I'm now restoring. And I'm can provide all that you will need. Regards Ernest ------- Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 18:03:51 EST From: HUNLEY31x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Lead screw keyway > Why does the keyway extend the entire length of my lead screw? > (A/C 101.07403) Does this help the half nut engagement? There is a bevel gear mounted on the back of the carriage apron that has a matching keyway. This gear is always engaged with the lead screw. This is the reason you can use the cross feed without engaging the half nuts. I think... Hank ------- Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 00:55:50 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Lead screw keyway John Glowacki wrote: > Why does the keyway extend the entire length of my lead screw? > (A/C 101.07403) Does this help the half nut engagement? No, it drives the power cross-feed on "F" model lathes. The leadscrew on "D" model lathes without power crossfeed normally do not have the keyway. Jon ------- Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 09:42:51 -0500 From: Ronald Thibault Subject: Re: Re: Back to the TH42 lathe part 2.. sorry >I see people referring to TH42 lathes a lot. What exactly is a TH42? Mike: The "T" means Timken bearings. "H" horizontal countershaft (the more typical); there were also "V" vertical (countershaft 4 step pulley above spindle), and the Under Drive setup with the motor and countershaft in the cabinet below the lathe. I do not know if there was a special designation for it. "42" is the length of the bed (total) in inches, in this case 42 would be 24" between centers once the head and tailstock are installed. The other common length was 54" or 36" between centers. Ron Thibault Warrenville, SC USA http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/t/h/thib9564/ ------- Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 17:27:29 -0000 From: "Derf " Subject: Re: Atlas vs. Craftsman 6" The major difference between the Atlas and Craftsman lathes is the little nameplates. The Craftsman "roller" bearings are Timken. The "dividing head" is the indexed bull gear. Cheers, Derf ------- Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 18:46:11 -0000 From: "mrb37211 " Subject: Change Gears I finally dug around until I found that the change gears for the Atlas 6x18 are 24 pitch, 14.5 degree pressure angle. What are the pitch and pressure angle for the other lathes Aatlas made? I'm particularly interested in those for the latest 10F's -- the ones for which a QC gearbox could be obtained. Thanks, Charles ------- Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 00:14:18 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Change Gears Atlas-built 9", 10", & 12" lathes use 16 DP 14.5 degree pressure angle gears. I think there may be two different bores for the lead screw depending on when the lathe was built. Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 11:35:18 -0000 From: "Robert Weersing " Subject: Re: Change Gears Hello Anthony: The 9", 10", 12" Were all the same EXCEPT the early 9" had a thinner hub. You could use the later model gears on an early 9" by turning the hub down until it was the same thickness as the rim. This mod is published by Clausing. Bob TH42 Atlas "F" 1024 Atlas "D" 618 Atlas U.S. Burke Millrite ------- Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 17:26:12 +0100 From: "Latheworks" Subject: Re: indexing bull gear Just in case anybody is interested, Clausing no longer supply the bull gear indexed as it was in the past i.e. 60holes; the new bull gears are supplied with 4 sets of 3 holes on a PCD... I found out when I replaced mine but was not told when I placed my order! ------- Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 00:52:49 EST From: n8as1x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Gear Pitch add 2 to the number of teeth of any gear & divide the gear diameter into that no. to ascertain the pitch (diametral)........no. teeth + 2 / d. = pitch ... best wishes. docn8as ------- Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 14:46:44 -0000 From: "Horace Steven " Subject: Re: T - Cross Slide [KIT ADAPTED TO ATLAS] wrote: > I am currently starting to machine the casting of the T slotted > cross slide sold by http://www.sc-c.com/metallathe/ for my 12" Atlas. > Has anybody completed this project? I bought a kit from MLA and machined it for a 10" lathe, same dimensions as the 12". I found there was a lot of extra metal in the castings, had to cut off a lot of metal to get it to the dimensions. I had sold my lathe before I finished the kit, so I sold the kit to a guy I met on Chaski's board (I think). He ended up adapting it to a South Bend lathe, or was planning to, I never heard from him after I sent the finished kit to him. I had to buy the T-slot cutter, cost about $25 IIRC. Did the job on my Van Norman 12, not too hard, had to figgure out how to clamp it up for some of the cuts. Off-Set the L-bracket in my new 12X36 HF lathe in a 4-jaw to machine the dovetail in the bottom, that was tricky to get dialed in true. Let me know if you have any questions, I have a few pictures somewhere I could send. Steve ------- Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 18:06:37 -0000 From: "Gary " Subject: Simpson Supremacy Brand Just found this group while researching my lathe, it is a model 109 20603. I posted some pics in a new album of the lathe, chucks, model plate and name decal. It would appear that these lathes appeared under a number of different brands although I have been unable to get any info at all on the Simpson Supremacy Brand. My suspicion is that it was for Canada only, possibly sold through Simpson Sears here. Would be interested in any info anyone else has on this brand. I obtained the lathe for $200. Canadian and it works fairly well if you don't overload it. As you can see from the photos I have the four jaw chuck and faceplate that seem to be the right fit for it. I bought a 4" three jaw chuck from Busy Bee tools but it really is too heavy in comparison to the four jaw. I had a spare three jaw from my unimat so I made a mounting plate for the 109 and have used it. ------- Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 13:57:19 -0500 From: "Bill Hardin" Subject: RE: Simpson Supremacy Brand Gary, The 109.20630 was made by Double A Engineering. The files section of this group has AADOCS, which will include a manual for the lathe. Bill Hardin www.homeshopsupply.com Craftsman & Atlas Lathe Support ------- Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 21:19:56 -0500 From: Ronald Thibault Subject: Re: Phase II toolpost mod > About a year ago I got that PhaseII for my 10F and it works > well. But I have never liked the mount. It moves around too much > on the compound. Overtightening things on the compound cause the > compound to break. So I was thinking of milling the base of the > unit to have a sliding fit in the compound slot. All that would > be required is a slight ridge -- say 1mm -- to locate the unit. > Has anybody made this mod? If so, how does it work? Frank: Make a ring to fit over the bottom of the shaft, that acts as a spacer to fill in the area of the compound slot. Like the bottom of the rocker toolpost. Ron Thibault Warrenville, SC USA http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/t/h/thib9564/ ------- Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 05:00:38 -0500 From: "wayne" Subject: Re: Re: mill arrived The Sears web site for parts etc. is : www3.sears.com All you should need is the model #. like 10107403 Wayne Burner ------- Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 22:39:59 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Change Gear for Atlas Gary Roth writes: << I have a need for a replacement 96 tooth change gear for an Atlas 10D. This item is not available from Clausing and I haven't seen anything on eBay. Anybody have one they would like to part with? Or if a Craftsman compatible part is available, the part number and URL link please. >> You're probably not going to have a lot of luck finding an original Atlas part. 96 tooth change gears were dropped from the specifications when they added th 16/32 stud gear in place of the 32 only. This was more than 50 years ago. Presuming your primary interest is the functionality of the 96 tooth gear, your best bet is to check with Boston Gear or Browning for a 96 tooth 16 DP 14-1/2 deg. Pressure Angle change gear. Measure the width, bore, and keyways and have the information available when you contact them. Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 03:17:32 -0000 From: "brewerpaul " Subject: 6"Atlas: what setscrew do I need? Sorry, I don't know all the correct terminology... Inside the headstock of my 6" Atlas, there is a cluster of pulleys on the spindle. To the right of this there is a large gear which can be disengaged from the pulleys by pulling out a pin on the side of the gear (BTW-- why would you ever want to do this?). Lately, this pin has been working itself out once in a while so that the pulleys are still spinning but the spindle and work are standing still. I noticed a threaded hole in the groove of one of the pulleys and figured there was a setscrew down there which would lock the pin in place. (The hole is right above the pin). However, there IS no setscrew in there. What size screw do I need? I'd hate to have to buy some monster assortment of setscrews just to find the ONE I need...Thanks in advance. Paul ------- Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 22:23:50 EST From: LouD31M066x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: 6"Atlas: what setscrew do I need? 8-32x3/16 headless set screw cup point from owner's manual pulley is unengaged when in back gear (slow hi torque mode) Louis ------- Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 11:09:46 -0000 From: "tomin130 " Subject: Re: 6"Atlas: what setscrew do I need? Paul: One thing you should know. The hole in the pulley missing the set screw is for oil only. The only function of the screw is to plug the hole. It is not for locking the pulley to the spindle shaft. Most likely the reason the locking pin is disengaging is that the mating hole in the pulley has been worn over time, possibly by the pin not being fully seated. It's also possible that the ball and spring retaining the pin in the gear are missing. Also, you may find, as I did on my 10" Atlas, that there is a second mating hole in the pulley, 180 degrees from the one that lines up with the oil hole. This one, if it is there on the 6", is probably not worn. I assume that what you say is a 6" Atlas really is an Atlas. Flat bed ways, roller bearing headstock, 1" diameter spindle nose. If it is, I am a bit surprised you didn't ask about the function of the other two gears on the shaft behind the spindle. Unless, of course, yours are missing. These are the back gears that Louis referred to. When using the back gears, the locking pin is pulled out from the pulley, and the spindle serves as an axle for the pulley to drive through the back gears. This is why the hole is provided in the pulley for oil. Get a copy of the parts list, price list, set-up and tear- down/assembly instructions directly from the Clausing Service Center, (574)533-0371. $5.00 plus postage and the cost of the phone call. Worth its weight in gold. Tom ------- Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 10:48:53 -0800 From: "Bob May" Subject: Re: 6"Atlas: what setscrew do I need? That pin is one of two that have to get moved to get the backgears going. I assume that the one that you are having problems with is the one that spins about with the spindle. That one, on my machine, has a thumbnut on it to keep it in place. When it is in, you are in direct drive and when it is out and the hub is held in place by a pin on the side of the headstock towards you from the spindle (it will go towards the left to engage the hub) which takes the force of the gearing to drive the spindle at a lower speed. Don't pull that front pin out all the way as you will then need to pull the screw on the front and get the spring and ball back into place again! Bob May http://nav.to/bobmay NEW! http://bobmay.astronomy.net ------- Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 16:53:40 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: 6" Atlas Back Gear (Was Re: 6"Atlas: what setscrew do I need?) The description below appears to apply to the AA lathe also known as the 109. First point to be made, a 109 is NOT an Atlas, it was built by AA Somethingorother. I know they are both called Craftsman by Sears but they were made by different manufacturers. The only significant parts that are interchangable between the AA and the Atlas are the change gears, this being more or less a coincidence. While all lathes are similar in principal, the details can be substantially different. An AA is an AA and an Atlas is an Atlas, and never the twain shall meet! On the Atlas-built 6" there is a pin which locks the bull gear to the cone pulley for direct drive. These are the higher 8 speeds. When you wish to run the spindle at a slower speed you pull the pin in the bull gear far enough that you can freely move the bull gear independently of the cone gear. Then you swing a lever behind the spindle which rotates the shaft on which the back gear assembly revolves. Because the back gear shaft is mounted to the headstock via eccentric journals, when the lever is rotated towards the operator it moves the axis of the back gear assembly towards the spindle and thus engages with the bull gear and the small gear at the left end of the cone pulley. The drive in back gear is form the countershaft through the belt to the cone pulley, then through the small gear at the left of the cone pulley to the large gear on the back gear assembly, then along the back gear quill to the small gear at the right end of the back gear assembly, then across to the bull gear which is keyed to the spindle, thus driving the spindle at a reduced rate relative to that of the cone pulley. Is that clear? Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 02:45:05 -0000 From: "too_many_tools " Subject: Atlas Mill Variations I recently purchased an Atlas horizontal mill. It is a model MF with the serial number 002996. Upon researching the web and Usenet, I am unable to find a source that discusses the variations of this mill. The literature that I have seen indicates the models MFC, MIC, MHC, MFB, MIA, MIA-G, MFA, MFA-G, MHA, MHA-G, MI, MI-G, MF(the one I have), MF-G, MH, MH-G exist. Can anyone point me to somewhere that discusses this subject? I am also looking for a source of parts too. (Isn't everyone? ;<) ) Unfortunately, this mill has a broken countershaft hanger that needs fixing or replacement. Finally, I am looking for information that indicates what accessories were shipped with the mill and what other accessories might be available? Thanks in advance for any assistance you might be able to offer. Too_Many_Tools ------- Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 23:46:34 -0000 From: "cmtwork " Subject: How do you add calibrated handwheel markings to Atlas lathe? What is the best way to add calibrated markings (0.001, 0.005 and 0.010") to the Atlas style handwheels (all wheels except tailstock)? Is there an aftermarket setup available or is it a do it yourself project? Any links to further data would be great. Pictures of finished setups would help also. Craig ------- Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 18:46:48 -0600 From: Ronald R Brandenburg Subject: Re: How do you add calibrated handwheel markings to Atlas lathe? Well, just off the top of my head I'd say the first thing to do would be to determine how far the piece moves in a single revolution of the hand wheel, i.e. the number of threads per inch. Take this number and divide it into 360 to get the number of degrees it moves per unit of travel. Set the hand wheel or collar, should you want to be able to zero it, and using a rotary table, or a dividing head, and the edge of an end mill make small cuts. Longer cuts every 5th one. My cross feed moves 0.1 per revolution. So, take 360° divided by 100 to get 3.6° per 0.001. This, of course, works with the radius so for every 0.001 you take off the radius that's 0.002 off the diameter so if you want a direct read take the amount of travel, double it, and divide that into 360 to get half-thousands. This gives you a direct reading or for every 0.001 you dial in you are removing 0.001 from your work. Simple really, when you think about it. Ron ------- Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 20:18:15 -0500 From: Ronald Thibault Subject: Re: How do you add calibrated handwheel markings to Atlas lathe? Craig: I made a new dial for my first lathe, using a paper dial strip. I have a short article on my web site (address below). Ron Thibault Warrenville, SC USA http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/t/h/thib9564/ ------- Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 22:25:28 -0600 From: Rodent Subject: Re: How do you add calibrated handwheel markings to Atlas lathe? I think he means how do you actually make the marks -- ie scribing the lines on the handwheel. You need a way to hold and index the handwheel or whatever, and a way to scribe the line. This could be done on a lathe or a mill with a rotary table. On say a 12" Atlas with the indexing holes on the bull gear, you could mount the handwheel to a taper inserted in the spindle, sharpen a tool to cut a fine line, then use the longitudinal feed to scribe the line. Rotate the spindle the appropriate number of index holes and scribe the next line. A set of number stamps would be used mark the values. ------- Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 22:44:21 -0600 From: "jerdal" Subject: Re: How do you add calibrated handwheel markings to Atlas lathe? > I think he means how do you actually make the marks -- ie scribing > the lines on the handwheel. Sharpen a tool to cut a > fine line, then use the longitudinal feed to scribe the line. Ron's method involves a paper strip that goes around something of larger diameter, like the chuck or faceplate. You divide the strip up with the required number of lines (plus one) and wrap it around. A pointer, and a means of holding the spindle complete the tooling. You position at a line, then cut the mark, repeating as needed. A means to vary the movement for 0.001, 0.005 and 0.010 marks is handy, use a carriage stop and blocks since you will be moving the carriage to cut. An hss threading tool is good, don't use carbide, as you will be reversing out of the cut. If you insist on retracting the tool, you likely won't cut the marks all the same. Since you are working at a smaller diameter, the positional accuracy of the scribing can be better than the line positioning accuracy in thousandths (although the positioning accuracy in degrees is the same plus the user error). I have done it several times, and it works well. Read his blurb for more details. Jerrold ------- Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 04:44:25 -0000 From: "timharvey99 " Subject: Re: How do you add calibrated handwheel markings to Atlas lathe? I was inspired by Ron's excellent website, so I went ahead and made some dials, too. His suggestion to use a printer to make the graduations is perfect. I did a few things differently, but hey, that's half the fun of it. I used a 45-degree diagonal cut where the scale ends meet as they wrap, and also made that the point where I drilled the clamp screw hole. If you are right-handed, on a 200-increment wheel, put the break at 150 or so. If you make graduations on both sides of the scale (above and below the numbers, see the crossfeed one), you can just skim some tiny cuts off the dial O.D. when you are turning it to size, trying the scale until the graduations line up. Glue the scale on and wrap rubber bands to hold it. So why not do the tailstock? That's actually what got me going on this stuff, since the original scale is so pathetic. It was easy. Note that the numbers should get bigger backwards, i.e., right to left. One full revolution advances the quill .100", so a 0-to-100 scale is appropriate. I chose to go 0-to-200 on the crossfeed because I'm mentally lazy, but take your pick. I put photos of these two dials in the Photos section under Member Projects. The pointers are just sharpened and bent welding rod pounded into slightly smaller drilled holes. Making these dials was not a lot of work, and bang-for-buck, made a huge difference in user satisfaction. I highly recommend it. ------- Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 11:31:38 EST From: catboat15x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Calibrated hand wheels I added larger dials to my old 6 inch Atlas (purchased when Atlas went out of business sale. Then sold in a weak moment, Damn!) I made larger dials of aluminum with yellow plastic pipe rings with the calibrations. I made the calibrations by using a CAD program to print out a strip with the lines and numbers then adjusting the scale of the print out to exactly fit around my new ring. Then when it was done put several coats of varnish over the paper. Lasted for several years (till I sold the lathe). Put new calibrations on cross, compound and even the right end of the lead screw. Also added the "poor mans" power cross feed. This was a drum on both the free end of the lead screw and the cross feed. A cord ran from the drum to a pulley on the bench to the drum on the cross feed screw. Kept a chunk of strong (apparently in-extensible, like first year physics problems) cord and when I needed a smooth cross feed to face locomotive wheels, I just took a few turns of the cord around both drums, put the change gears in fine feed mode and let the cord turn the cross feed drum by the drum on the lead screw. There is always a way to do a job! The right way, the wrong way and then my way. Now looking at my 12 inch to add better dials still thinking since my eye balls are about the same age as the rest of my worn out, creaky and tired body. John Meacham High Desert of California, Palmdale, Littlerock. ------- Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 20:24:02 -0500 From: "Bill Hardin" Subject: RE: gear cover door > question. will a chasing dial from a 109-20630 > work on a.109-21270? thanks i am new to this group. The part numbers for all parts in the thread dial for the 109.20630 and the 109.21270 are the same. Bill Hardin www.homeshopsupply.com Craftsman & Atlas Lathe Support ------- Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 13:19:31 -0000 From: "Damon " Subject: Re: what is a full set of gears? > > Can somebody email me, and let me know how many gears are in a full > > set for a 10" lathe? 20,20,24,32,36,40,44,46,48,52,54,56,64,64,64. This is extrapolated from the thread chart. Having all of these gears will let you thread any of the pitches listed from 4 to 96tpi, 0.5-7mm (with gaps), and feeds from .0019 to .0087. The 3rd 64TPI gear is used exclusively for feeds. Also the complete set should include three bushings and one 'spacer' gear. HTH, Damon ------- Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 21:18:40 EST From: LouD31M066x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Re: what is a full set of gears? Real men thought they once made a mistake,but, then discovered they were wrong. Real men never ask directions or read a map and always take the scenic route. Real men never ask why the coffee is cold, the toast burnt or why their duds are still on the floor. There is a reason for all this...a representative of the other gender is always willing to tell us all about our alleged imperfections....again and again and again... Good thing it's kind a hard to hear all that well intentioned advice and reminders over the sound of shop machinery... Louis ------- Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 12:53:57 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: 109.21280 Is this an Atlas 109? Bill Hardin wrote: >Jon >I don't think you read my note. I know the 109s were supposedly made >by AA, and 101s by Atlas. What I said, and tried to prove, was that >Atlas did indeed make a 109 lathe - the 109.21280 Well, I have no way of knowing the real truth. But, it seems VERY unlikely, as Sears had a very well developed system for numbering models sold under the Craftsman name. The first 3 digits were always the manufacturer ID, and were applied across the board of product lines. So, Atlas machines of all types, metal lathes, wood lathes, planers, table saws and whatever, were labeled 101.xxxxx. Many other tool manufacturers had their own manufacturer ID. It seems very unlikely Sears would break their long adherence to such a system. I suppose there is the possibility that AA started importing or reselling some other maker's machine to Sears under their AA label. It is even conceivable Atlas sold machines to AA, although the prismatic bed you describe definitely sounds different from any Atlas product I've seen. There were TONS of outfits making small lathes in the '60s, importing from all over the world, too. Many of them were very similar to each other, or knockoffs of a well-known make. Some of this may have been not that different from the Taiwan and Chinese machines of today, where hundreds of different 'labels' are applied to machines made from the same castings. Jon ------- Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 23:41:48 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Re: 109.21280 Is this an Atlas 109? In a message dated Mon, 24 Feb 2003, Bill Hardin writes: << I don't think you read my note. I know the 109s were supposedly made by AA, and 101s by Atlas. What I said, and tried to prove, was that Atlas did indeed make a 109 lathe - the 109.21280 >> You can suppose this all you want but it doesn't make sense. 101 is a Sears code for an Atlas built machine. 109 is a Sears code for an AA built machine. Even if Sears were to have convinced Atlas to build a replica of a 109 lathe they almost certainly would have given it a 101 code. Additionally, since Atlas was trying to upgrade their image and renaming themselves Clausing to aid in this effort, it seems *extremely* unlikely that they would have involved themselves with the 109 design which I think any reasonable person would declare to be enormously inferior to the Atlas 6" lathe. I hope this doesn't hurt your feelings but I think it reasonable to conclude that the suggested scenario is just "not on". Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 11:38:28 -0500 From: "Bill Hardin" Subject: RE: Re: 109.21280 Is this an Atlas 109? While I am supposing, I guess I can suppose that no one has the answer. If you are interested in why I asked the question, I have placed a photograph of the Atlas Mk 2 along with the three drawings of the 109.21280 on my web site. On the Home Page, just click on the Mystery Machine line and it will take you to the right place. I ask you to particularly notice the photograph vs. the drawing on the carriage. Since I do not own an Atlas, can you understand why I question the similarity? No, you did not hurt my feelings. I posed the question here because there are some almost as old as me, and a great many who know more than I do here. And, I like knowledgeable answers more than speculation. Thanks for your help. Bill Hardin www.homeshopsupply.com Craftsman & Atlas Lathe Support ------- Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 14:18:49 -0500 From: "Bill Hardin" Subject: RE: Re: 109.21280 Is this an Atlas 109? I made the phone call [TO CLAUSING] yesterday. It was not made by Atlas. So, what is its story. Looks like one. I have learned quite a bit in following this. Not really ready to put it all down just yet. I do have a copy of a Sears manual for the 109.21280, which is what started this whole thing. I'm told those are not Atlas parts - just a little away, a thread short, but not made by Atlas. Perhaps a purloined design. With a little more help, I think we'll find an interesting story. Bill Hardin ------- Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 20:10:44 EST From: n8as1x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: lathe parts e bay braze up ur old one if T is torn out,bar stock works plaza machinery in vermont dave ficke at meridian dave sobel in NJ fabricate a new one out of bar stock if u need more or better addresses email me ..few other places, but all these dealers are in BUSINESS of scrapping out. best wishes docn8as ------- Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 19:07:30 -0000 From: "mikehenryil " Subject: Re: Atlas Bench-top Miller "chris strawford" wrote: > I have just committed myself to buy the equipment described below: > The machine is an Atlas Change O Matic,Model MF,Serial No 002118, > Overall Height 24" Footprint 20" X 9" Bed 4 1/2" x 18" > Swing from centre of Chuck [it has a 3 jaw chuck fitted] to bed at > lowest position 5 1/2" Trust the above is some help> > I have not seen it other than in copies of old Atlas sales > literature, but I believe the following is missing off it. The > Arbour Support Arm Assembly and the Cutter Arbour Assembly together > with the Draw In Bar. Is it possible to buy these parts? Chris UK I'd guess that neither of these parts are available from the manuafacturer anymore and that used parts will be your most likely source. Both are probably going to be pretty hard to find. Arbors on eBay seem to go for $150-200. Spacers can probably be bought off the shelf from the standard tool suppliers and you should be able to make up a draw bar pretty easily. Clausing supplies some Atlas parts (Atlas & Clausing merged) so you might try them: www.clausing-industrial.com and click on the service link to get contact info. They've been known to supply blueprints for parts that are no longer manufactured, so you might try asking for those. They'll sell you a manual for $5 or $10, too. There are also used tool dealers that tend to specialise in the smaller home-shop type tools, like Atlas. Dave Sobel and Plaza Machinery come to mind, but I don't have contact info for them handy. Mike, near Chicago ------- Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 22:31:35 EST From: n8as1x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Re: Atlas Bench-top Miller arbors can be shop made ......doug king ,visiting me last summer from canada decided i neded a 1 1/4 B&S 9 arbor & proceeded to turn one out on my 1895 reed 14x44, in abt 2 hours,sans spacers ( went at a totally strange machine ,like he had learned on it).....put it in spindle & indicated 10 in out & the needle didnt move .....redid the setup 2x more before i beleived it ..there had to be good fortune there , BUT doug is SOME kind of machinist!!!!!!...took me longer to make the spacers! this lathe has 3 fixed pulley feeds ,.007 being the least..he ground & set the bit so there was no sign of concentric rings., #220 cloth was all that was necessary .to finish.....thinking abt it , dont see why u cdnt take a blank #2 morse taper, shrink a oversize bar on, put between centers & turn down to 1in (7/8) & thread end 1x 12 ...shud be dead on. best wishes docn8as ps .rudy kouhaupt(sp) has a series of articles on refurbishing atl; as mill in home shop machinist mags ...think he fabricated o/head tie down......check w/ village press ------- Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 03:39:35 -0000 From: "mrb37211 " Subject: Re: Atlas Bench-top Miller There is another Yahoo group, Chris, Atlasshaperandmillingmachineusersgroup, which you might want to check out. They have a number of photos of the mills posted as well as copies of some "How-to" articles about techniques. Their archives include a series of emails detailing the creation of arbors from Morse Taper 2 drill shanks; the first of which appears to be message 178. And be sure to check your countryman's site http://www.lathes.co.uk/ specifically http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlasmiller/index.html and thirdly, try http://www.owwm.com/ Charles P.S. Thanks for the center height information on the mill. Sounds like a good substitute for a 10" - 12" lathe for turning live steam locomotive drivers. ------- Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 23:39:45 -0400 From: Peter Merriam Subject: Re: Atlas Bench-top Miller Chris: Further to Mike's comments, the overarm itself, on my Atlas MFB hor mill (serial 006417) is a piece of shaft 1.5 inch nominal diameter (1.499 actual) by 16 inches long, so it is easy to replace. I got one here in Dartmouth Nova Scotia last week for $23 Canadian at Metals Supermarket. The overarm and the arbor are 2.875 inches center to center and the arbor is .625 inch dia, so the arbor support should not be too difficult to make. PeterM [IN A FOLLOWUP MSG] After posting my msg to you, I got thinking about the 2.875 dimension. You should check your own machine. Your machine may vary. Good luck with search for parts. -------- Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 14:06:57 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Atlas Connections (Was Re: Downfeed on shaper) In a message dated Fri, 07 Mar 2003, brianx~xxsquibb writes: << The Atlas sold by Acorn was called a Sphere. >> Brian, I'm not quite certain what you're alleging so let me tell you what little I know. The Atlas machines we're generally interested in are the various lathes, the mills, and the shapers. I know for a fact that the Atlas designed shaper that Acorn sold was marketed as "Acorn". I know you have a "Sphere" lathe and from the photos you've posted it's obviously an Atlas variant. I presume, from your statement that I've quoted at the start of this message, that your Sphere was manufactured by Acorn. I also know that several other UK manufacturers manufactured and marketed lathes based on the Atlas 10" with various degrees of alteration to the original design. Tony Griffiths' site specifically mentions the Sphere and Halifax, he also mentions Acorntools as if it were seperate from Sphere but has no info on an "Acorn" lathe, and he also mentions Raglan but in a way that suggests that the connection is only peripheral. I know that some Atlas mills wound up in the UK, so far I haven't heard of any with names other than "Atlas". So, you have a "Sphere" lathe. Do you *know* that it was manufactured by Acorn? Do you know if Acorn manufactured lathes under the "Acorn" name or under any name other than Sphere? Do you know of any Atlas shapers manufactured by Acorn under any name other than "Acorn"? Do you know of any Atlas shapers manufactured by anyone under any name other than Atlas or Acorn? Do you know of any Atlas mills manufactured by anybody other than Atlas and/or under any other name than Atlas? Do you know of any lathes based on the Atlas design made by any manufacturer other than those mentioned above or under any other name than those mentioned above? This is not intended as an inquisition, I'd just like to know the reality rather than speculations. Thanks. Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 20:34:00 +0000 From: "brianx~xxsquibb.org.uk" Subject: Re: Atlas Connections (Was Re: Downfeed on shaper) Anthony, Based in the Acton/Chiswick are of London. The Acorn Machine Tool Company was one of several agents set up to provide spares for the Atlas 10F lathes, which were shiopped over on a lease/lend basis for the war effort. They came with bed lengths of mostly 36 and 42 inches with the 48 and 54 bed being rare. Post war, and in due course, our industry began to recover. The spares need eased and the Acorn Company began to use the 'surplus' spares to build their own versions. They were badged 'Sphere', Halifax, and Acorntool lathes. My Sphere has bakelite pulleys and gear cover (and some had bakelite reverse gear cases). In 1983, the OTM Group of companies bought the Acorn Machine Tool Co and in 1990 moved the factory to Egham, Surrey. When a subsidary company, Trygear, was moved into the OTM factory, Acorn tools stopped. At this point Mike Kurn the CEO for Acorntools did a management buy out and till this day provides spares for Atlas lathes and the various clones. Brian ------- Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 09:37:06 -0000 From: "chris strawford" Subject: Re: Atlas Connections (Was Re: Downfeed on shaper) Brian: Is it worth contacting Mike Kern for spares for my Atlas Horizontal Milling Machine. If it is, do you have his email address please? Is there any way of dating my Atlas MF? Anyone???? Chris ------- Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 23:10:26 +0000 From: "brianx~xxsquibb.org.uk" Subject: Re: Atlas Connections (Was Re: Downfeed on shaper) Chris, Mike can be reached at mikekurnx~xxotmservo.com or tel 01784 434225 (day) or 01344883417 (evenings) 16 Mansfield Place, North Ascot, Berkshire, SL5 8ND No harm in contacting him Brian -------- Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 10:53:41 -0000 From: "Ernest Lear" Subject: Re: new member seeks accessories for an Atlas 10-F Hi Stuart, I live nearly 40-50 miles away from you, in the cider county Somerset, at Langport. Glad to see that we have another user of an Atlas 10F Machine, I have a 10F-36. A 1946 model rebuilt after many years laying in a shed unused and with many bits broken or lost. Its on the way to being totally restored to as new condition that can be got by me. It's working now and at the moment making parts for itself. Regards Ernest ------- Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 17:27:27 EST From: LouD31M066x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: new member seeks accessories for an Atlas 10-F For the money involved you might be better served to make a steady rest and a follower rest. Probably would develop your machinist skills also. These things are about, but, see what they bring on ebay and decide. Louis ------- Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 23:23:00 EST From: LouD31M066x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Re: making a leadscrew [VERSUS BUYING ONE] I have not looked into this,but, apparently others have. Several mentions in group. [FOR PRETHREADED STOCK] Try usual suspects Mcmaster, Enco .... I think smaller firm from Wisconsin or Minnesota was source most mentioned. Making a leadscrew is doable, but, only as last resort as accuracy of screw needs to be very good to make whole exercise worthwhile. Leadscrews tend to be hardened to resist wear and prolong accuracy. The only point of putting my oar in water is to point out that leadscrew stock is apparently available from suppliers known to at least some group members and that whacking a screw to length and grinding ends to fit bearings and however screw is linked to drive seems to be a lightyear or so quicker and probably accurate and hardened for long wear. If you go ahead and make a leadscrew you are going to be working from the leadscrew of the lathe and it is sure to have some wear and some slop in mechanism and this will be reflected in the leadscrew you make. In my opinion which has been humbled more than once. Louis ------- Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 21:12:19 -0800 From: "Patrick Lee Rooney" Subject: RE: Re: making a leadscrew Damon...think long and hard about cutting a leadscrew. I made several a few years back when I placed less value on my time, and the results were less than satisfactory. Not that the process was technically difficult, just that the screw wore very quickly. After a year of pretty heavy use, it was in worse shape than the original. I had no knowledge how to harden the finished product. By comparison, my 11" Rockwell screw which I have owned since the early 70's, showed very little wear when I replaced it earlier this year. I had to grind the end bearing diameter down a tad on the new screw to fit the new bearing, and it was VERY slow going. Hard as a diamond. I eventually replaced the Atlas screw with one scored on e-bay which was virtually new and really cheap. Making the screw was a fun and challenging project back then, but it just didn't wear well, and the first one I made was sloppy. I wouldn't do it again unless I had a rare leadscrew to replace. Good luck. Patrick ------- Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 21:00:33 -0000 From: "jdmichael2001" Subject: Re: Zamak replacement handles? McMaster Carr www.mcmastercarr.com has "Steel Balanced Crank Handles" like the crossfeed handle in a variety of sizes with revolving or stationary handles. Once at their website, a search on "crank handle" will return about 3 pages of them, with the counterbalanced handles about 3/4 of the way down. They have a starter hole for machining to your requirements. When I got my lathe the carriage traverse wheel was missing the little handle and I replaced it cleanly with a revolving handle from McMaster Carr. Press in replacement. Jan ------- Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 01:58:41 -0800 From: Marc Sayer Subject: Re: Re: Zamak replacement handles? From a discussion I had a few months back about this on the list: > Bill Hardin wrote: >>J & L Industrial Supply has a wide variety of cast, machined and forged >>handles. I was able to replace the broken ones on my lathe with better >>quality that looked almost the same in size and shape. Site is >>https://www.jlindustrial.com/ Bill Boy was this a good tip. I tried ordering replacement handles from Clausing, via Campbell and got the wrong parts. Turns out when they say handle, they only mean the crank portion of the handle. No wonder they were only $7 or so. For about the same price I got larger more robust handles made of steel rather than Zamak from J & L. They don't have the right ID (I got them a bit undersized so I could tap them and thread them on), and they don't have a keyway. But as I say, I'll be threading the ID to fit on the shafts and then locknut them in place. And frankly that's fine with me and no trouble to do at all. Plus these handles are easier to use and stronger by far. I also ordered a 52 piece clamping set they had on sale for $29.99. That's $20 off, and boy is it a great deal. I needed a clamping set anyway, and the T slot nuts also fit the compound on my lathe! To top it all off, not only were the prices great, but the service was unreal. I ordered it on the 3rd and it showed up at my door mid- afternoon the next day. Overnight shipping at no extra charge! The shipping was just under $10 for a fairly heavy package. I doubt I could have shipped that item via UPS ground for that, let alone next day delivery. I am very pleased and want to thank you for the tip Bill. ------- Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 00:08:49 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Can anyone tell me about model #'s for the 12"? [in atlas_craftsman] machinist360 wrote: >Does anyone know how to decipher the atlas/craftsman model numbers? >Particularly, what is the difference between a 101.07401 and a >101.28970. Any info would be appreciated. Umm, I'm not absolutely sure, there are a LOT of model numbers. But, the 07401, if it is a 12" at all, is the very first one. it would almost certainly have babbit bearings, no quick change, and 3/8" vertical thickness of the bed ways. This is essentially the 10" Atlas lathe with a taller headstock and tailstock. It would have been made between about 1936 and 1939. This model did not have power crossfeed. It is equivalent to the Atlas model "D". I have a 28910, which is a much later machine, made between 1962 and 1965, very roughly. It has Timken bearings, a QC gearbox, power crossfeed, and the bed ways are 1/2" thick. The carriage, cross-slide and compound rest are all made a bit beefier than the 10" and early 12" lathes. So, the 28970 would be made a bit later than 1965, but should be similar. Note, most of these models were sold in two "sister" versions, for instance, the 28900 had a 42" bed, and was a 12 x 24" lathe, the 28910 had a 54" bed, and was a 12 x 36" lathe. Otherwise, they were essentially identical. The bed, carriage rack and the leadscrew were the only parts differing between the two models. Jon ------- Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 17:16:39 -0000 From: "bck41" Subject: Lathe repair [POSTED TO SHERLINE LIST] Even though I had zero machine tool experience I bought the Sherline shop package and some extra tooling to play with after I retired. I have struggled some but am having a lot of fun. I am about to attempt my first serious (to me) project. I recently bought a 10" Atlas and a lot of tooling at an estate auction, it was very cheap, less than $200.00, because the leadscrew bearing/retainer, whatever the proper name is, on the tailstock end was broken and the leadscrew was loose and flopping about. The auctioneer said that it had been in good working order and it was broken while moving it up the stairs from the basement. Would Fortel aluminum be acceptable for making a replacement part? If not what would you suggest, any ideas on proper material and procedures for making this part would be appreciated. But keep it as simple as possible. BK ------- Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 18:45:37 -0000 From: "Glen Reeser" Subject: Re: Lathe repair BK, you might want to pose this question on the Atlas list. I have two 9" South Bend lathes. The tail stock end leadscrew support is a cast iron part with a lead babbit bearing. The factory would pour the bearing in place around the leadscrew. This level of precision is probably not required. Someone on the Atlas list may have a spare part you could use. Glen Reeser ------- Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 21:55:18 EST From: catboat15x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Lathe repair I would check with Clausing (do a net search) they have many parts for the Atlas still in stock. That bearing is made to break anyway. It is kind of a safety valve that will break and avoid damage to more expensive parts of the gear chain. You got a good deal if the lathe is in any kind of shape at all. John in the high desert of California 12 inch Atlas Mini Mill Rusty file ------- Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 14:08:20 +0100 From: Brian Squibb Subject: Gib strip Well I have got the swivel off my 10F and put a T-slot table in place. This gives me significantly more space above the table and also a very rigid base for a vertical slide/angle plate. I will have to make a tall toolpost to match, but that is not a problem. The gib strips are clearly not interchangable so I have to make my own. I have got the right size piece of mild but as a novice I have not made a gib strip before. Can I have some hints and tips from the experienced members on the list please? This is not for a piece of Atlas kit so I have to make my own. I am assuming I just have to chamfer the ends and put indents in where the adjusters are? Using mild steel - would brass be better? Thanks Brian ------- Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 10:28:28 -0400 (EDT) From: Kirk M Scammon Subject: Re: Gib strip John: I bought the cross slide and compound gibs for my lathe from Clausing. They were both plastic, and about 10.00 bucks. They are holding up O.K.. I still have some give in the slides, so I am in the process of learning to scrape bearing surfaces now. I wish my dad was still around, he had rescraped machines for several machine shops. Clausing does not sell the gib for the carriage, or gibs for the MF mill, but they shoud be easy to make. When I get around to scraping the mill, I will make bronze gibs with scraped bearing surfaces. If I figure out how to make a website, I will post the scraping of the lathe, and mill. But the first project is to be an x-y vice, to make sure that I don't bugger up the dovetails on the lathe. Kirk 12 x 36 A/C and MF mill ------- Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 11:33:42 EDT From: Sagebush9x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Gib strip My late model 12"-(28990) had plastic gibs from the factory. I made brass ones, & it improved the rigidity of the machine quite a bit. Not having a mill at the time, I hacksawed & filed them out of 1/8" brass plate, & made the indents for the screws on the drill press. HTH, Ron Moorland ------- Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 19:11:03 +0100 From: Brian Squibb Subject: Re: Gib strip Gib done - made a pointed bolt to get the indent. All on now and adjusted. The T-slot table is about 10 inches long so it has a much longer gib, so should reduce wear overall. The table is about 2 inches lower than the compound so I can get the 6inch chuck over the table. Seems to give about 6 inches of travel . With the T bed the opportunity for other tools is greatly increased. I am looking forward to putting on the vertical slide and doing milling - the table is much wider and rigid than the compound. If anyone is interested I will post a picture. Brian ------- Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 22:20:06 +0100 From: Brian Squibb Subject: Re: Re: Gib strip >Because he's applying these to a non-standard cross slide there is a >strong likelihood that a standard gib won't work. As much was implied >in his msg. The gibs are nearly 10" long for the new table. The same thickness though. >He might well not be happy with plastic gibs. I have no information >on the subject. I am doing milling off the table - my understanding that the plastic gibs will move about. Hence the question whether mild steel is OK or whether I should use brass >He's in the UK which means that Clausing may be a less reasonable source >for him on anything he can get locally or can make for himself. I had the right size steel bar so I made one up. I surprised myself by remembering to chamfer the ends. It works a treat, even better that the standard, previous set. Looks very promising and VERY rigid as I have been doing some milling tonight - OK I was only user 1/4 inch slot mills but it just cut smoothly and easily. Got a Jacobs No 3 chuck today on an MT2 - it is a very impressive large drill chuck opening from 0 to 17/32. Brian ------- Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 07:51:10 +0100 From: Brian Squibb Subject: Re: Re: Gib strip >Brian - Where did you get the T-slot table? Also, I've heard that >the gib should not be significantly softer than the cast iron >surfaces it rubs, else grit can become imbedded in the gib and file >away at the cast iron. Charles The T slot table came with my lathe. Looks like a home made affair - it has the correct dovetail and the nut for the leadscrew is genuine atlas (no slop either). The T slots are a bit kludgy tho. So it looks like my mild steel gib strip is correct then? As soon as I have got it finished I will post a picture. I made the tool post extension last night (to get the extra height now needed). Just need to make the T nut with a very long bolt now. Brian ------- NOTE TO FILE: Gib strips to replace plastic ones can be made from brass stock or inexpensive cold rolled steel (hardware store type) or whatever better-steel scraps you have on hand. ------- date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 16:54:12 -0000 From: "jebob71" Subject: Re: chip tray, roof flashing? > >Anyone ever try using roof flashing, Aluminum (or copper) > >sheeting in 24"xwhatever rolls at the home warehouse stores? I think > >it could make a neat chip tray to go under the lathe. Not super > >pretty, kinda bend in place to suit deal. > I made fixed and removable chip trays for my lathe from automotive > drip trays. I detailed them in the Atlas section of my Web site (address > below). Ron Thibault Warrenville, SC USA > http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/t/h/thib9564/ For the smaller 6"x18" atlas & craftsman lathes, swipe your wife's cookie baking sheets. Not only are the large ones long enough to mount completely under the lathe, the smaller ones actually fit between the lathe legs. Finally, since they are teflon coated, easy clean up. Jeff ------- Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 23:32:20 EDT From: catboat15x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Digest Number 1435 > A lot of things are possible but not necessarily practical. And conversely, some things turn out to be practical, but not very machine shop like. When I had a lot of facing to do on my 6 inch Atlas, which has no powered cross feed as many of the 12 inch models do. I added a flanged drum to both the lead screw right end and replaced the handle on the cross slide with a simlar drum. A pulley, (clothes line type, not a marine top dollar one) and a length of good string and I had automatic feed for facing. Wrap the string around both drums, lock the carrage in place and set up appropriate gears to drive the lead screw. (Don't engage the half nuts, of course.) String is wound up on the lead screw, unwound from the cross slide drum to drive the tool across the face of the wheels I was making. Not done to save work, but for a better finish. > I had considered putting a handwheel and calibrated collar on the > outboard end of the lead screw but that is quite a project for the > occasional use. Not too big a project, when I added the "string and drum" powered cross feed on my old 6 inch Atlas, at the same time I added a calibrated collar on the lead screw. I made a disk or drum first of a convent size. Drew a scale with my CAD program. Then a cut and try process to "scale" the drawing so the paper wrapped around the drum exactly. Put it on with Duco or model airplane cement and covered with several coats of tranparent varnish. Worked fine for several years till I finally sold the lathe. (Fool that I am, wanted more swing so sold the Atlas and bought a Smithy. Woe is me!!!!) Next time I wll tell you about the wood steady rest I made to face locomotive boiler drums. John in the high desert of California 12 inch Atlas Mini Mill Rusty file ------- Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 03:12:02 -0400 From: "mertbaker" Subject: Re: Digest Number 1435 It is amazing to see what one can do using wood to make machine tools. I have seen a lathe with the TS, HS, Bed, & carriage made out of rock maple. Mert ------- Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 18:22:44 -0400 From: Art Eckstein Subject: Re: need parts source >Hi-could anyone tell me where to purchase a replacement for the pot >metal hanger which supports the right hand end of the lead screw on >my atlas 10 in lathe, model th54. had a small almost bad accident >and that hanger is now deformed. thanks-steve in sacto Check out Ron's page at: http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/t/h/thib9564/At las_Lathe_Leadscrew_Bearings.htm and he will tell you how to fix it! Bubba ------- Date: Thu, 01 May 2003 04:06:33 -0000 From: "Steve Black" Subject: Re: need parts source Thanks everyone for your help with my damaged lead screw bearing problem. I was turning close to the head, and laid my little six inch ruler on the ways,and, you guessed it. Didn't break the bearing, just bent it. Took the lead screw off, took the carriage apart and cleaned, reinstalled. The lead screw is now offset to the right a bit, so no thread turning, and the carriage is stiff along the ways-dont know why. Will repair the lathe, thanks again- Steve in Sacto ------- Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 15:17:35 -0000 From: "jrw064" Subject: roller steady rest? Hello, like most Craftsman/Atlas owners the headstock of my lathe(12x36) is somewhat limited for thru the headstock rifle rebarreling; my spindle has approx. 3/4" opening. I have worked a little with my steady rest that has the brass type supports that bear directly on the rotating object. Sometimes I mar the turning item, so I inquired about a roller bearing capability on the supports. I suspect that the bearings from Enco are fairly common everday quality, so one person said I needed bearings like the headstock in quality to do any good, I believe class 7, which I read to be fairly pricey and hard to acquire. Any sources for these high grade bearings? Does anyone run a roller bearing steady rest in their hobby and relative results? The chambering/threading etc needs to be as low a runout as possible. Thanks for any replies, Regards, Rick W. ------- Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 17:12:44 +0100 From: "jo barden" Subject: Re: roller steady rest? You could always use bearings for router bits, they are relatively cheap and are designed to operate at high speed (upto 20,000 rpm) and they are readily available. jo ------- Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 13:04:38 -0400 From: "mertbaker" Subject: Re: roller steady rest? For most barrel work, A fitted collar on the barrel will allow the use of the brass fingers with no danger of marring the bbl. Mert ------- Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 18:14:31 -0000 From: "Bill Collins" Subject: Re: roller steady rest? Hi Rick W. I make a lot of small cannon barrels on my lathe, a Southbend 9" model C. I made my own steady rest. The bearings I used are from old VCR heads. Although other bearings can be used like from old skate board wheels. These are a little heftier than the VCR bearings, but I have had good results using the VCR head type. Good luck and God Bless. Bill C. ------- Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 18:52:58 -0000 From: "Bill Collins" Subject: Re: roller steady rest? Hi group. I have uploaded a couple pics of my homemade steady/follower rest I made that I use on my Southbend. It can also be used as a follower rest by removing the two bolts and attaching it to the side of the carriage with the two same bolts. I plan on making another