Here are many users' experiences finding and/or making appropriate parts for the Atlas lathes (and sometimes Atlas mills and shapers). Many Atlas models were sold by Sears under the Craftsman brand name, and in the United Kingdom as Acorn brand. There are some repair discussions about the nuts involved for threading half-nuts or split-nuts in the text file "Thread Dial and Half Nuts" Also, there are discussions in the text file "Atlas Repair or Fitting" as to how some parts may be repaired or made from scratch. And there are further discussions about Atlas or similar machines' bearings and spindle problems in the "Bearings and Bushings" file. New Atlas lathe, mill, and shaper parts are still available from Clausing. (ATLAS BOUGHT CLAUSING, NOT the other way around, and then adopted the more upscale Clausing name.) You need to get to know one of the good folks at Clausing Parts & Service Dept in Goshen, IN. Phone: (800)535-6553 or (574)533-0371 Fax: (574)533-0403 E-mail: infox~xxclausingsc.com or joldsx~xxclausingsc.com Website: http://www.clausing-industrial.com/service-std.htm Address: 811 Eisenhower Drive South P.O. Box 877 Goshen, Indiana 46527-0877 And their good copies of manuals and current price lists are must-haves. While some other dealers carry Atlas parts, they get theirs from Clausing and usually mark them up a lot. Note: There is a list on-line of Atlas Technical Bulletins for the 6, 9, 10, and 12 inch lathes along with the Atlas horizontal mill that can be seen and printed free at: http://www.atlas-press.com/servicebulletins.htm#General Bulletins If the machine was also sold by Sears under their Craftsman name, you may be able to look up parts on-line at the Sears site: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action A quote from a discontinued Sears' site before the change to PartsDirect: >Most parts are sold as a quantity of one. In some instances a part description will include a quantity in parenthesis. The number inside of the parenthesis represents the total number of pieces to be ordered for that particular part. If verification is required for the number of parts to order, please call 1-800-252-1698 or email partsdirectx~xxcustomerservice.sears.com for further assistance.< Then there are other vendors that make new parts that may be modified or adapted to use on an Atlas. Or you can make parts like rests yourself. Used parts are often available from machinery dealers (see metalworking magazines' ads) or at on-line auctions. Particular caution must be used for internet transactions to be sure the part being sold is really the correct one for your machine. Often the vendor of a machine part knows little to nothing about what exactly he is selling. NOTE TO FILE: The first 2 messages are way out of date-order but will answer some of the basic questions by new owners of a 6" and help them to figure out which one they really have. There is much more information on 6" lathe model numbers at the start of the "Atlas 618 Gems" text file here. The identically featured versions of the Atlas 618 and the 6" Sears Craftsman 101 will share all parts and accessories. Caution must be taken in that there are spindle variations within the 618/101 lines. Some have bronze bearings, characterized by a split headstock casting sandwiching this bearing type. Those with no split have roller bearings. Some 618/101 had a spindle thread of 1" diameter and 8 threads per inch (1" X 8 TPI), while later production went to 1" X 10 TPI. Make sure you know which spindle thread you have before buying a chuck or accessory that threads onto the headstock spindle; thread gauges are inexpensive and can often be bought locally. The only (!) parts the Atlas-made 618/101 have in common with the AA-made 109 are the change gears. Generally the other 109 parts (NOT Atlas) are available from Sears or from machinery dealers parting out old 109s or even making replacement parts. If you got to this file directly from my HOME PAGE, return there by using your browser's back button. BUT if you came to this file as the result of a web search engine, see more than 70 additional files on my home page Machining and Metalworking at Home http://www.janellestudio.com/metal/ SAFETY WARNING BEWARE: DO NOT ASSUME that any subject matter or procedure or process is safe or correct or appropriate just because it was mentioned in a news/user group or was included in these files or on this site or on any other web site or was published in a magazine or book or video. Working with metals and machinery and chemicals and electrical equipment is inherently dangerous. Wear safety devices and clothing as appropriate. Remove watches, rings, and jewellery -- and secure or remove loose clothing -- before operating any machine. Read, understand and follow the latest operating procedures and safety instructions provided by the manufacturer of your machine or tool or product. If you do not have those most recent official instructions, acquire a copy through the manufacturer before operating or using their product. Where the company no longer exists, use the appropriate news or user group to locate an official copy. Be careful -- original instructions may not meet current safety standards. Updated safety information and operating instructions may also be available through a local club, a local professional in the trade, a local business, or an appropriate government agency. In every case, use your common sense before beginning or taking the next step; and do not proceed if you have any questions or doubts about any procedure, or the safety of any procedure. Follow all laws and codes, and employ certified or licenced professionals as required by those laws or codes. Hazardous tasks beyond your competence or expertise should also be contracted to professionals. Let's be really careful out there. (c) Copyright 2003 - 2010 Machining and Metalworking at Home The form of the collected work in this text file (including editing, additions, and notes) is copyrighted and this file is not to be reproduced by any means, including electronic, without written permission except for strictly personal use. ======================================================================== Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 05:12:02 -0800 (PST) From: helpx~xx4mtool.com Subject: Re: My Atlas 6" This is the more common Atlas, referred to by people on this list as an Atlas 618. This is also known as a Craftsman 101.___ lathe (6" size). The Sears 101.xxxxx numbers are the Atlas company ones, and the Sears 109.xxxxx numbers are the AA company ones. Regards, George O'Connoe georgex~xx4mtool.com ------- Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2003 15:45:27 -0000 From: "speedphoto300" Subject: Re: My Atlas 6" The later Atlas 10100 is also known as the 6 inch mark II or "square head", Sears sold this one as model 101.21200. The earlier, and more common, Atlas model 618 was made from 1937 to 1974, sold by Sears as 101.07301 (bronze spindle bearings), and 101.21400 (roller bearings). You'll see all of these discussed here. Joe ------- Date: Wed, 20 Sep 2000 20:16:59 -0400 From: "Mike Spring" Subject: Re: 0 Morse taper For all the AA109 owners, the following companies have MT0 accessories: Grand Tool Supply (201-342-6900 no web site that I know of) sells MT0 centers: carbon 008-200 $2, HSS 008-000 $5, carbide tipped 008-100 $9, in their fall 99 catalog ($50 minimum order or $10 handling charge). Campbell tools (800-878-8562 web site www.campbelltools.com) sells MT0 centers: carbon 0LC-C $6.25, HSS 0LC-HS $9.5, carbide tipped 0LC-CT $16.75. They also handle all the Sherline accessories which includes: MT0 centers live and dead, MT0 arbors to both 3/8 and 3/4 threads for mounting chucks as well as chucks with the 1/2-20 threads. The Sherline centers are shorter than the others, but still seem to work ok. Just be sure you get the MT0 part numbers (Sherline tailstock), they also carry MT1 stuff for the Sherline lathe headstock. Check out Sherline's web site, www.sherline.com - lots of helpful hints there as well as information on their various accessories. Taig tools sells some nice small 3 and 4 jaw chucks, but they are 3/4-16 threads and would need an adaptor or larger spindle. One of the group members, Nick Carter, is a Taig dealer and was very helpful to me. ------- Date: Sat, 03 Feb 2001 15:52:45 -0600 From: Bill Williams Subject: Re: #0 morse taper fnkbrinkx~xxwctc.net wrote: > Where can I get a # 0 morse taper dead center to fit the Craftsman > 109 Lathe? Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks. If you have a working lathe it is pretty easy to turn your own. The taper is .05205 per inch. Small end is .252. Big end is .3561. If you have an existing tool with the right taper things are even simpler. Set it up between centers then adjust the compound until an indicator doesn't wiggle much as you move transversely along the taper. Chuck up some CRS (Cold rolled steel here) or drill rod and make chips. It is easy enough that I find myself making all sorts of arbors and stuff that will just plop into the headstock taper - #3 MT of the 12 inch machines. Good luck! wms ------- Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:33:05 -0800 From: Frank Evan Perdicaro Subject: Thoughts on follower rest My Atlas 10" came to me with a steady rest. Once and while I have need for a follower rest, but I do not have one. Given that I have a mill it will be pretty easy to make a follower rest, so I'll probably do that some time. But I was thinking about the contact surface of the rest. My steady rest uses brass inserts to make a plain bearing contact. It should be easy to use rotary bearings instead. Yes, this will reduce the usable radius of the rest some. My thought for both the follower and steady rest is to make an insert that uses Rollerblade ABEC 5 bearings for direct contact to the workpiece. These bearings are small, high quality and easy to obtain. Each one can probably be used to apply 100 lbs pressure Used in pairs the will be more that adequate. For a follower rest I envision making up something like a knurl tool that has Rollerblade bearings where the knurl cutters would normally be. Can anybody see any problem using these semi-disposable bearings in this application? ------- Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 09:40:31 -0800 From: "Bob May" Subject: Re: Thoughts on follower rest There's a lot of bearings out there that can probably handle higher loads for less cost than those bearings although using a sealed bearing is a good idea. You may have to build a bit bigger to support a piece but you shouldn't have to limit yourself to something of smaller cap. than the brass bearing one you have now. Personally, I have always been supprised that no manufacturer that I have seen is making ball bearing rests. They all seem to be plain bearing ones. Bob May My new web space address is http://webu.wigloo.com/bobmay/ or http://nav.to/bobmay ------- Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 12:58:38 -0500 From: "ebower" Subject: Re: Thoughts on follower rest Frank, I have made steady rests and follower rest (special designed) in the past. The only problem you will have is the following: The steady rest is stationary. It does not move over the part being machined. Using either bearings or brass pads will only mark the part in an area that you are going to machine. If you use it on a finished surface then light polishing, using a scotchbrite type pad, will remove the brass deposited by the pads. No problem. The follower rest, however, moves over the part as the carriage is moved. The follower rest is to be reset each time you are cutting. The bearings are set parallel with the centerline. The will cause the bearing to rub the surface, e.g., burnishing a part. If for some reason that the bearing seizes up, then the part will be marked or bent. If you are cutting in a direction that the follower rest is already set for depth, then you run the chance that the part will be marked by the bearing. (I have seen problems in the past, where I used to work, that a seized bearing has ruined a part and the whole part had to be replaced). Just my .02 as I used to work as a tool designer for a company. I worked there for 25 years and had to work with the shop as a designer. Earl bower machine ------- Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 12:32:04 -0600 From: Jim Irwin Subject: Re: Thoughts on follower rest Rollerblade bearings may work fine. Just remember the main thrust vectors they are going to have to resist and design your follower rest accordingly. Best regards, Jim Irwin ------- From: help... Date: Wed Jul 25, 2001 9:15 am Subject: Source for atlas parts I am a recent subscriber to the list (wished I'd known about it earlier!), -but we have are a machine shop and manufacturing facility who use (3) 618 atlas lathes in our shop. We make or contract to be made (out of need) accessories for these lathes (as well as some other small lathes, as well as other things (sheet metal brakes and accessories for cutoff bandsaws). These Atlas suitable items include tool blocks for 3/8" (or 10mm) bits, boring bar holding blocks, 1"-10 threaded backplates, and a unique radiusing fixture, which as far as I know, no one else makes. We regularly offer for auction on eBay (user name forem), these and other items. You can view pictures of the same items there. We intend to soon offer more parts (plastic and brass gears to replace the original zamak ones, a cross slide table, and others) Overall, these lathes offer a lot for their value in the home or small shop. we do have an "under construction" website [www.4mtool.com) so don't expect too much from it, but I will timely answer questions posted to us (allow a couple of days). We have simple data sheets which we can email for those who so desire. I am sorry if this sounds like a solicitation, but it is a hobby which got out of hand. We also buy parts and even junkers for these units. Regards, George O'Connor ------- From: sleykin... Date: Wed Jul 25, 2001 8:39 pm Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Source for atlas parts Welcome George! I have bought a few things from you on e-bay and am very satisfied. You do nice work and the saw feed attachment is like getting a whole new saw! I can't believe how much longer the blades last. I did change out the valve for a one way type that makes it even easier to use. Any chance of turning out some of those parts for the bigger atlas lathes? The ball turning tool looks like it would work great. I have a 12" now and I sold the 6" or I would have one of those radius fixtures already :) Sorry if this is a bit off topic (the bandsaw downfeed) but I have been so impressed with George's operation I couldn't resist. Glenn Neff Medford, OR ------- Date: Mon, 24 Sep 2001 19:15:45 -0000 From: "Horace Steven" Subject: Great Idea, I posted 2 photos to Photo file area... of my 10" steady rest, I had more but didn't want to use up all the space, I used 3% of the space with 2 photos. The steady was made from 1 3/4" thick alum I got as scrap! and milled on a milling machine using a rotary table. Talk about chips! buckets full! It works well, the fingers are 3/4" brass, I had intended to make a set of 3/8" ones also but never needed them so haven't. The small clamp pieces that lock the fingers are relieved so they touch only on each end, to clamp more firmly in the middle of the finger. The four 1/4" holes are where it was bolted down to the rotary table, during final milling of the interior bore and the outer shape. The hinge is milled from the solid, it could have been made more easily in several pieces, but I did it when I first started, not after I got tired and cut corners as I did at the end. It could be made from much thinner aluminum, 1" would be fine. The adjusting rods are 6" long carrige bolts, they are threaded full length, have round smooth heads that fit into a drilled hole and run on the 135deg drill point angle. They are held in place by a press fit bushing, the square shank area turned round to suit. Steve ------- Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2001 20:23:24 EDT From: catboat15x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Atlas lathe In a message dated 10/1/01, sleykinx~xxaol.com writes: > Fortunately with the flat ways on the Atlas lathes building a steady is > pretty simple. Nothing is really criticle on the steady rest as > you adjust the fingers to center the work anyway. When I had to face off the end of my boiler on my Atlas I made a temporary steady rest from plywood. Made an L shaped bracket and clamped the bottom of the L to the bed. Then used a headstock center to make a starting mark and find the center. A drilled hole and a coping saw finished the job. Greased the copper tube and wood steady rest and did the job. John Meacham High Desert of California, Palmdale, Littlerock. ------- Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 11:05:43 -0500 From: "R and J Sport" Subject: Re: Re: 109 bent spindle At the time I had my 109 I had a new spindle made by Largen Machine Co. in Creighton, NE. He made the spindle with my choice of thread for about $25.00 and it worked and ran true for 3 years till I sold the lathe. Jim at R and J ------- Date: Thu, 25 Oct 2001 01:48:55 -0000 From: "John Lawson" Subject: Spindle for small 6" lathe Noticed the discussion and remembered the last spindle I made for mine. Following the directions in "The Amateur's Lathe" by Sparey, I turned one between centers, but made the flange that backed the chuck a much larger diameter and had it bear against a flat bronze washer of flange diameter. As memory serves, I made it from a piece of 1" diameter drill rod. Mine had a 1/2"-20 thread on the nose, and I made the threads on the tight side. I finished the turned bearing surfaces with 1200 grit abrasive paper. I also did not make the 1/4" spindle bore or the 0 Morse taper socket. I made a shallow 1/4"-20 thread socket in the nose and made up a 60 degree tip with wrench flats for turning between centers. I never missed the through the spindle capability, and the spindle proved to be very strong compared to the original spindle. I did not attempt to harden the part, fearing warpage. Later, I mounted a rack and pinion carraige advance (made from an r and p from an old machine of some sort), and though the crank turned in the wrong direction, not having enough room in the apron to mount an intermediate gear, it improved the usefulness of the little machine and was in daily use until I was able to buy a slightly larger Atlas 6" lathe. ------- Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 02:13:33 -0700 From: "Patrick Lee Rooney" Subject: Vertical Mill Attachments for Atlas I am a new member to the group, but have owned my QC42 and MF Atlas machines for nearly 15 years. Shortly after acquiring them in the eighties, I rebuilt both with parts from Clausing. Prices were reasonable, and the machines have served me well up to this point. Unfortunately, both are once again in need of servicing. Parts are no longer reasonable, but I bought the needed gears anyway. The new gears are all steel, while all my NOS gears from the 80's are that crappy composite pot metal (not really sure what that stuff is). My concern is in the mating of gears composed of two dissimilar metals. Has anyone experienced a problem with this? I would like both machines to last another 15 years. Also, I noticed a Marvin Vertical Mill attachment for my MF recently in the local paper. Although the price is way beyond me ($1500), the prospect intrigues me. Has anyone outfitted their mill with a similar setup? I have modern CNC machines, so re-machining an existing product would not be a problem. Just wondered if someone in this group has already had success with a similar project. My Dad doesn't understand why I put money into "those poorly built machines". I can't really explain in myself. They just have that certain appeal. Thanks in advance, Pat ------- Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 06:20:40 -0500 From: "Charles Brumbelow" Subject: Re: Vertical Mill Attachments for Atlas One of the Village Press magazines ran an article about adding vertical milling capability to the Atlas MF. It was reprinted as "Economy Substitute for a Bridgeport" in Metalworking Book Three. This device was basically a head with spindle attached at right angles to a tube which passed through the top hole in the mill (the one above the spindle) and had a motor on the other end. The book is available from http://www.caboosehobbies.com at a discount or from the publisher at retail. Attached for you, Partick, is a file from eBay showing the Atlas MF with -- apparently -- the factory vertical milling attachment. It was powered from the spindle. Sorry the pictures are not larger. Charles ------- Date: Fri, 26 Oct 2001 16:16:15 -0700 From: S1 Subject: Re: Vertical Mill Attachments for Atlas If the teeth are the same they will mate up and work like they should. Wear-wise however, the softer gear will wear sooner. I own a 7X10 mini lathe, and it has steel 20 tooth gears that mate up with 80 tooth Plastic gears and they mesh just fine. Just keep them lubed with a lubricant which doesn't attract dust or grime; periodically clean the gears of any swarf or chips; and you ought to be fine. Gabe ------- Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 14:28:09 EDT From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Vertical Mill Attachments for Atlas In a message dated Fri, Charles Brumbelow writes: << Attached for you, Partick, is a file from eBay showing the Atlas MF with --apparently -- the factory vertical milling attachment. It was powered from the spindle. Sorry the pictures are not larger ... >> As you mentioned before my present quote one or more of the Village Press magazines published one or more atricles on vertical milling adapters for the Atlas Mill. As far as I'm aware Atlas/Clausing never offered one of their own. The Marvin unit that was mentioned dates back to the early 50s and is one of several attachments they offered for the Atlas Mill. The other significant ones are a dividing head, based on the Brown & Sharpe principles, and a 6" rotary table using the same dividing mechanism as the Marvin Dividing Head. I have the Marvin Rotary Table with only one of the three dividing plates, and a casting plus drawings to make a replica of the Marvin Vertical Milling Attachment. I do not have the Marvin Dividing Head but would very much like to acquire one (at a reasonable price!). << Also, I noticed a Marvin Vertical Mill attachment for my MF recently in the local paper. Although the price is way beyond me ($1500), the prospect intrigues me. >> Regarding $1500 for a vertical attachment for the Atlas Mill, that's way out of line, for a Marvin unit or any other. (I realize Patrick wasn't planning on paying that and it seems unlikely anyone else in this group would do so either.) The Marvin unit is *extremely* limited. It has a 3/8" bore and setscrew for holding end mills so tooling options are limited, and it does not have an adjustable quill. This means that all depth of cut adjustments are made through raising and lowering the knee. It also means that, while in theory you can swivel the "vertical spindle" axis off the vertical, the reality is it's virtually unusable in anything but axial alignment with the vertical motion of the knee. Additional to the above limitations, the distance between the bottom of the vertical spindle and the work table is *very* limited so that once you've installed any tooling there's almost no room for a work piece. I've thought about making a riser block to fit between the column casting and the head casting to provide additional vertical clearance (this is sometimes done on Bridgeport-pattern mills). At the same time the head could be set back so that end mills or other tooling mounted in the standard horizontal spindle would have more working room. I haven't done any actual design work on such a riser block but I have a spare column casting and two spare head castings so I can at some point take the required measurements for such a project. I hope the above information is useful to people considering adding vertical milling ability to the Atlas Mill. And if anybody has a Marvin Dividing Head you're willing to part with please contact me off list at Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 20:05:58 -0000 From: "John Lawson" Subject: Living in the Past? Because of the content of some eMail responses I have received, I'm certain that many of the forumites who are looking for parts are either living in the past or in a dream world all their own. One person intimated that Sobel Machinery charged way too much for parts and accesories. Since I have been looking for and buying parts from wherever I can find them, I know for certain that Dave Sobel charges very reasonable prices for Atlas parts. Recently, a friend died and I sold his Atlas lathe for his widow. All but one of the "machinists" who responded tot he ad were trying to cheat the widow out of the machine by running it down and telling half-truths. They were thrown out on their ear. One gentleman knew the value of the machine and bought it for three thousand dollars (it had almost every attachment and tooling device made for the lathe.) When you consider that Atlas lathes are no longer made, and that each lathe parted out has one of each part, you get the message that the prices charged are not out of line. The only current small shop lathe available new is the 10" Southbend. They now cost in excess of eight thousand dollars STRIPPED, plus shipping and sales tax. (Nobody complaining about prices ever mentions shipping and sales tax.) But, there will always be cheapskates looking for something for nothing. In light of these facts, Dave Sobel, Barry Aronson and others who sell used parts are well within the range of reasonable pricing. Unless some of you have secret sources of supply. If you do, please share them with us. As for robbing widows, one recent incident locally involved a "Home Shop Machinist" who DEALS in used stuff but does not actually USE it, bought (I should say bamboozled) a machine tool from a lady and turned around the next week and sold it for three times the price without doing anything to it. If you want to deal in used machinery, go to your city, county and state tax offices and obtain the proper licenses, keep books and pay your taxes. There is no such thing as a "hobby machinery dealer." It is a wise thing to inventory your shop equipment, listing the latest fair market values in case you die suddenly. Meanwhile, you might lend your fabulous expertise to HELPING the widows instead of standing by while they are cheated. Machine tools don't eat anything. Tell the lady she can keep the equipment for months or years until somebody who will appreciate it answers her ad. And, the next guy I hear bragging about cheating a little old lady... ------- Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 15:48:05 -0700 From: "Patrick Lee Rooney" Subject: RE: Re: Vertical Mill Attachments for Atlas Hey Paul: Somewhat reluctant to participate for fear I might mis-speak. However, I did want to point out that I did swing by to check out the mill attachments. Included in the deal was a "Marvin Slotting Attachment", which appeared to be chain driven from a sprocket installed on the spindle. The vertical mill attachment utilized collets, and several of those were also included. The whole package went for the asking price, which in these parts is the equivalent of a house payment. No way to really justify that expense. But still, I found the attachments unique and fascinating. The new owner has plans to commit the attachments to Acad R13 for windows :-( I can never get that format to convert properly. Thanks to Anthony and all for the feedback. I truly appreciate the experience of this group. Patrick ------- Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2002 12:15:35 -0000 From: "wburn2000" Subject: Steady rest [atlas_craftsman] For the group members that are interested in the split ring set up that the homemade stedy rest was made from ,the shipping weight is six pounds. Anyone interested in a set of these plates, please contact me off list. The price is $5.00 each plus S&H. Pictures of this setup is in the photos section of the Yahoo groups A/C page.Thanks Wayne(rice)Burner ------- From: David Beierl Date: Wed Jan 23, 2002 12:14 am Subject: Re: [atlas_craftsman] Do You Use Your Follower Rest? At 09:24 PM 1/22/2002, Jude Miller wrote: >I was curious what the feeling was here. Do those of you >with follower rests actually set them up and use them? >How often? How much compared to chuck only, tailstock, steady rest? I don't see what choice you have if you're working on something long and skinny, even though it's a horrible nuisance to reset the rest after every cut. If you did much of it I could see wanting one where you could push a button and have it magically take up the slack from the previous cut. I haven't needed it yet and I'm not looking forward to it either. I've used the fixed steady fairly often, it takes a lot of strain off the chuck and reduces chatter, also centers work for boring and so forth. It's a nuisance too, especially since the six-inch one doesn't fold open like the larger ones. david ------- Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 10:04:25 -0700 From: "Bob May" Subject: Re: I am in need of 6 gears Those things are kind of rare. You might want to consider making a whole set from Boston Gear gears by boring out the hubs of some compatible gears. Doing so can also do a gear so that you can do the metric threads also. Bob May http://nav.to/bobmay NEW! http://bobmay.astronomy.net ------- Date: Thu, 16 May 2002 17:27:52 -0500 From: "Fred & Liz Lusen" Subject: Re: miniature bearing suppliers Mark: Check out these two web sites also. http://www.reidtool.com/ http://www.smallparts.com/ Get both catalogs. They will do you whole bunches of good. Fred Lusen Coppell, Texas ------- Date: Fri, 17 May 2002 15:20:46 -0700 From: Frank Evan Perdicaro Subject: Milling attachment, and other things > I recently acquired a 12x24 Craftsman lathe. I am completely new to this thing and have many questions so you will be hearing a lot from me. After I learn how to use the lathe I hope to build some scale models. The two questions I have at this time are as follows. There is a milling attachment coming up at auction in the next couple of days. This is supposed to be in excellent condition. Question number one, Is this something I would likely have much use for? Question number two, What would be a fair price to pay for this? I realize that there are no absolutely correct answers to these, but I would appreciate as many opinions as possible. Thank You. < Occasionally I post this updated list of things you can buy from McMaster-Carr (and generally from MSC) that can be used to fix, upgrade, or equip the 10" and 12" Atlas lathes. A milling attachment is still available new. Parts List: McMaster-Carr part numbers for Atlas/Craftsman 10" Lathes Repair Parts: Bronze Bearing Assortment (45 pcs) 6388K13 $29.91 Babbit, lead base 8899K11 $13.73 Babbit, tin base 8900K11 $48.96 Twist Lock Belt, 60" by 1/2" 6173K47 $23.54 Oil caps, small 1231K1 $1.63 Oil caps, big 1231K5 $3.16 Oiler instead of big cap 1169K11 $9.31 Switch 7343K71 $2.84 Pulley, mult-step 6213K77 $12.70 Handwheels (tailstock, etc) too many to list Shim stock assortment 9301K2 $25.96 Acme Screw No slotted leadscrew available Tooling: Live Center, small 3229A21 $54.55 Live Center, big 3265A11 $207.58 Dead Center 3266A3 $40.66 MT Sleeve, 2/3 2976A25 $9.29 MT Sleeve, 1/2 2976A21 $7.12 MT Jacobs 3 adapter 2811A34 $14.11 MT 3 Albrecht 30075A46 $218.66 MT Drift 2 2796A12 $6.60 Cutters various Toolpost, Quick Change 31805A11 $216.34 Toolpost, wedge 3291A11 $17.63 Tool holder 3298A62 $91.25 Tool holder, thread 3310A12 $133.13 Tool holder, cutoff 3307A72 $96.25 Dogs, starting at 3283A12 $32.94 Milling attachment (Palmgren) 3199A2 $190.80 Tapping Collet 2MT, 1/4" 2731A46 $10.14 part numbers run up Tapping Collets 3MT, 5/8" 2731A57 $16.69 part numbers run up ------- Date: Sun, 26 May 2002 04:49:23 +0000 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Gear info? [atlas_craftsman] latheplaya wrote: > Does anyone know the pitch info for 10F gears? I need a couple and > would like to try a cross with Boston Gear or something. I believe it is 16 pitch, 14.5 degree pressure angle. I also believe Boston Gear has drop-in replacement gears, complete with the double keyway. Jon ------- Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 18:05:07 +0000 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Rocker for tool post panamint98 wrote: >I have a Atlas QC54 and found out I am missing the rocker for the tool >post. The lathe has a index tool holder but I would like to find the >rocker so I can use the tool post also. I think the part # is 9-41. If >anyone has a extra for sell or knows where to find one please let me know I have both the lantern toolpost and a QC toolpost. I have only had the lantern post on my lathes twice since I got the the QC, and that is over a period of 15 years! The rocker tends to slip under load, and that will end up showering you with metal fragments. Not fun at all. You could make these parts pretty easily. The concave washer can be turned with a pointed tool and rotating the compound rest. The rocker can be made from a ring of 1/4" (roughly) steel, and then cut apart. You'll get at least 3 or 4 of them from one ring. Jon ------- Date: Thu, 30 May 2002 04:14:59 -0700 From: "shalgs" Subject: Re: Handy Tool Post Grinder > AtlasTV48x~xxaol.com wrote: > >I made a 1/2" ID by 5/8" OD bushing to mount a Dremel Flex shaft > >attachment in my Phase II boring bar holder. I works incredibly well > >for ID and OD grinding. I just used it to recondition my 3 jaw > >chuck which now repeats to less than .001. I stuck a picture on the > >home page below. Sorry about the rotation. My lathe isn't really > >mounted on the wall. > > Dave... > > > > http://hometown.aol.com/atlastv48/myhomepage/index.html Here is another method for mounting a tool post grinder. I bought a Dremel holder at a garage sale,ground some flats on the holder shaft.mounted it in my lantern tool post holder on my Craftsman 6". It can be moved for alignment. Posted in picture sect. under toolpost grinder. dave ------- Date: Fri, 31 May 2002 05:15:05 -0000 From: "mikehenryil" Subject: Re: Tailstock Oiler In atlas_craftsmanx~xxy..., Chabannes Rene N Contr ASC/YCD wrote: > I'm missing the oiler on top of the tailstock of my 12x54 Atlas > Craftsman lathe. The picture in my parts list isn't clear enough to > make one. It doesn't appear to be an oil fitting like others on the > lathe. Could someone provide a description of this item? I think that's just a little well intended as a container for grease to be applied manually to the TS center. There was a ball-headed, metal applicator stuck in the top. When turning between centers, you'd use the applicator to dab a little oil from the well onto the center-drilled hole in the workpiece. Mike, near Chicago ------- Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 12:09:26 EDT From: catboat15x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Tailstock Oiler In a message dated 5/30/2002, jwaggonerx~xxcaci.com writes: > What I was told was that it is an "oil cup" with a little dip stick > that holds oil for the dead center. OK let me figure this out, had a question about the oil fitting on the tailstock. I assumed the question was about the oil hole near the handwheel end which I answered. Now we are getting into the old question about the larger hole near the front of the tail stock. That hole is for "white lead" which was the common lube for dead centers in the "good old days" before lead was a forbidden material. There was a dipper in that hole and I don't know what it looked like, but was used to dab a bit of white lead on the dead center. (I use moly grease now, but in the old days I did use white lead from the bottom of paint cans. How dumb I was in those days, even smoked tobacco, used carbon tet for spotting clothes, had PCB containing oils in my ham radio gear etc etc.) Maybe that is why I look 76 at only 23 years of age. Or the other way around. John Meacham California High Desert 12 inch Atlas, Minimill, rusty file ------- Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 07:35:42 EDT From: tadici283x~xxcs.com Subject: Re: Busted Leadscrew Bracket In a message dated 6/27/2002, k13x~xxbellsouth.net writes: > The cause of the failure puzzles me. I didn't crash the lathe. When I > started taking the bracket off, it turned freely on the leadscrew, > but I noticed where it had a lot of wear against the collar on the > left hand side of the bracket. I wonder if a chip could have wedged > into a gap and caused the collar to sieze against the bracket? I'll > look at it a little harder tonight. Indeed this seems to be a weak point whether it was designed that way or not I do not know I had to replace mine also and so have others that I know with the same kind of lathe, I had repaired mine for a while but installed the new one after all, I, like many, dread the gears on the *Other* end of the leadscrew getting messed up and need replacing, the cost is frightening I am sure (lead screw Engage box tapered gears). Anyway to sum up I do not think that there needs to be a reason for the part to fail, at least not in my case and others who own the same lathe, so don't feel bad. Chris of Bradenton FLA. ------- Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 19:07:36 -0500 From: "Koepke, Kevin" Subject: RE: Busted Leadscrew Bracket I just received one of these from Clausing. The old one was zamak die cast. The new one looks like it may be 6063 aluminum. Very good quality and definitely stronger. I found out, while purchasing items from Clausing, that the item quoted is not always the item received. The 618 cross feed screw cover, which only cost $1.00 (I found out why it's so cheap), is made of sheet metal, like on the newer 6". It still fits, and serves its purpose, but had I know they replaced the original with a new part, I may not have purchased it. Another item is the 9-42A locknut w/handle for the tailstock. Its replacement looks nothing like any of the originals used on any of their lathes. I made my own out of copper/nickel. You might think this is a stickler for detail, but the replacement looked fragile. Kevin ------- Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 17:38:09 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Change Gear Studs In a message dated Wed, 6 Nov 2002 21:41:19 EST, John Meacham writes: << Does anyone know if the orginal Sears Craftsman 101.041781 (that is the serial #) came with two or three change gear studs? I have two, and just ordered another stud, sleeve and spacer (I can get the nuts and washers at the local hardware) from Clausing. For some of the feeds you need to mount three change gears besides the one on the lead screw, and the lady at Clausing did not know if it came with two set ups for change gears although there is places for three on the banjo casting. Just curious as when I want to set up for really fine feed I need three gear combinations. >> John: It's my *strong* impression that any non-Quick Change Atlas built lathe of any size which was furnished with a 16/32 stud gear on the tumbler reverse was supplied with *only* two change gear stud assemblies. That's all you need for all the threading and feed setups listed on the chart that was supplied with the lathe. It's true that the MoLOaMT lists additional setups for odd threads, metric threads, and fine feeds. When required these lists specify that certain gears and the third stud assembly are *extra*. Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 18:54:20 -0600 From: "Clint D" Subject: Gave wrong email for Bowers [MAKER/SUPPLIER SOME 109 PARTS LIKE SPINDLE] Mike L I gave you a bad typo in Bowers email it is ebowersx~xxlcsys.net Clint ------- Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2002 22:38:17 -0000 From: "a6fac" Subject: Proposal Hello, guys, looking for advice, encouragement or discouragement. I am retired, and have been looking for some project to use over 40 years experience in manufacturing, procurement and engineering. Several months ago, I decided I really liked using and learning my Craftsman 109, and enjoy any involvement in the trade, totally different from my recently ended career. As a result, what really appeals to me is to become the premier source for parts and equipment in that area. To that end, I have negotiated deals with a local foundry, as well as long time suppliers for my businesses in machining, mill work and sheet metal. I have established a web site that will become active on January 1st and will expand to provide virtually every part, new and used, as well as improvements and tooling for the Craftsman and Atlas machines. I want to involve the group in a couple of ways. Obviously, you are a potential customer base. Secondly, some of you are, like myself, retired and looking for ways to supplement income. I want to give you a venue to sell parts you produce yourselves - a web exposure for pieces you make for these machines, or work related to them. I want to provide picture listings of equipment you want to sell and don't want to go the eBay route. This also provides you with a source of machines looking for new owners, good bargains you can hide on your credit card and hope the wife doesn't notice. I want the group to critique what I am going to offer. If Charlie buys a new toolholder I found from a source in Timbuktu, I want and expect him to tell everyone else it's a great deal, or to save their money, in which case it will disappear, right after Charlie gets his money back. The goal, for me, is not to build a "big business". Certainly, supple- menting a fixed retirement income with a little extra is an incentive. But there are some words that have to fit in: Honesty, Integrity, Fair Pricing, protection and guarantees for both buyer and seller. As brief as I could make it. Comments out of group to william.hardinx~xxverizon.net. As long as Jon doesn't object, you can tell me I'm an idiot in front of everyone else, also. Be critical in a constructive way. Thanks, Bill ------- Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 20:46:56 -0000 From: "ericgraham" Subject: Re: Steady rest In atlas_craftsmanx~xxy..., "Mike Bennett" wrote: > Hi, I have an Atlas 10 inch lathe. The steady rest that came with the lathe can handle up to I think 2 and 7/8ths inch diameter round stock. Did/does someone make a steady rest that can handle up to 6 inch OD material? I plan on making my own and I have some of the pieces. I just though I would ask. Regards, Mike Bennett www.mbrocketry.com Hi Mike: I'm in the process of making such a steady rest for my Southbend 9. I'd guess I have a few weeks to go before it is finished and then I can give you full details if you are interested. The basic design is simple, most parts made from 5/8 aluminum alloy plate (found on ebay). There is a 9" diam ring (6" hole) with three outward extensions. The extensions are augmented by screwing on a u-shaped bit of 5/8 plate and a 3/16" cover plate, so each extension becomes a socket for a 5/8 x 1 x 5" arm, the end of which has a roller bearing that touches the workpiece. The arms are driven in by threaded rods. I've used a mill drill and rotary table to make it, but it could be done with a jig saw. Good luck with yours, let me know how it turns out. Eric -------- Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2002 19:01:09 -0700 From: glenco2x~xxjuno.com Subject: Re: Digest Number 1195 Mike: I am making a steady rest for a 10 inch that will handle 6 inch diameter. I got the ring from Wayne Burner, on this list. He is a great guy. The ring is cheap. Cost more for shipping. Glen ------- Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 07:08:58 -0500 From: "Wayne" Subject: Re: Steady rest Mike: The rings and steady rest pictures are on the A/C groups (Yahoo Groups) page. Go to photos, then members projects, steady rest. The rings are a two piece held together with countersunk allen head cap screws. I found the center of the ring for the height of my head stock, then made a spacer that fit in between the ways, and drilled a hole through the spacer, in the middle so a clamping screw could hold it in place. The ring was milled with a flat on one side to sit on the spacer. I actually milled the flat first, then made the spacer. A matching hole was drilled in the ring. I TIG welded the two pieces together. I could send more pics if you like. The rings are $5.00, and you pay the shipping. I have made two of these, one for my 12" A/C, and one for my 10" Atlas. I no longer have the 12" or the steady, and now have an original steady for the 10", and will save the home made one for larger projects like you have in mind. Let me know if you are interested. Thanks, Wayne(rice)Burner Member of the VJMC ------- Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 05:18:19 -0500 From: "Wayne" Subject: Re: Hello from new member, need part info. John, Try this www.atlas-lathes.com Clausing has parts for our A/C lathes, I have bought new brass nuts from them, but I am going to try the nut repair trick that I have heard mentioned a few times on the list. I have tried a repair for a damaged gear that worked quite well. Take a thin brass strip as wide or wider than the gear itself and feed it through two gears of good shape mounted on the "harp or banjo" and hand feed the brass ribbon so you end up with a zig zag pattern that you can wrap around the damaged gear, fill with JB Weld, or similar type of epoxy, and hand file to fit after drying. Slick and cheap (cheap is good). Wayne(rice)Burner (bottom feeder) I am going to my local recycling yard today with a load of aluminum cans and some scrap copper, amd I'll be looking there for some brass or aluminum round stock to play with. ------- Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2002 10:20:38 -0800 From: Frank Evan Perdicaro Subject: A few thoughts on big steady On my long-term list of things to do is to make a larger steady rest. I too was going to start with plate aluminum, since good scrap is available locally (IMS in Irvine, and Schor in Placentia) in 5/8, 3/4 and 1" thickness. For contact with the turning stock I was thinking about using a pair of Rollerblade wheel bearings. For positioning of the arms, I was thinking about making threaded jaws, sort of like the inverse of a 4-jaw chuck jaw. If you had a LONG Acme tap, you could drill and tap a deep hole in a pair of jaws, then saw the pair apart right down the tapped hole. (Use a 10" table saw with a thin-cut carbide tipped wood blade, or perhaps one of the 7" Tenryu aluminum cut blades.) As far as cutting the thick aluminum into odd shapes goes, rough cut with woodworking saws, then make a scaled/shifted pattern of plywood so a wood router can be used to finish the edges. Use a 1/2" multi-flute endmill in a wood router, and take fine climb cuts. (Wear two layers of protection: plugs and muffs, glasses and a shield, full coverage clothing and leather welding gear.) All of this would be pretty easy in 5/8 6061 T6. ------- Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 00:04:20 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Lathe cleaning David Booth wrote: >At the risk of showing my ignorance, I'm going to ask - Is Zamak >a trademark name for what I am used to calling "pot metal"? Close. It is an alloy of Zinc, Aluminum, Magnesium and Copper. there are several Zamak alloys, and they are most certainly NOT the only Zinc alloys out there. There must be hundreds of registered alloys. I'm also not sure Zamak is similar to the "pot metal" that carburetors and other things are (were) made of. It is stronger than most of those metals, and Atlas states in their manual that is is twice as strong as cast iron. Jon ------- Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 05:39:44 -0500 From: David Beierl Subject: Re: Lathe cleaning Zinc-Aluminum-Magnesium-Kupfer (Copper) -- die-casting metal. Produces parts with excellent detail and dimensional accuracy. Zamak #3 is the most widely used die-casting material in US. Part cost is low in production quantities because machining not generally required and molds last forever. http://www.netmarketingservice.com/TechnicalReview/ ------- Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 14:45:41 -0500 From: "S or J" Subject: Re: Lathe cleaning [Zamak and Other Zinc Alloys] The alloy used by Atlas on some of their gears is far from what I would term pot metal. Some of the gears on my very old and hard-used 618 have definitely got some wear but will likely last for many more years before replacement. I have another example of a device produced during WWII that unfortunately used a particularly bad variety of zinc alloy for some of its precision parts. Fortunately this is not one of our toys, but a fairly complex sock knitting machine that the government issued for free (along with a fair quantity of yarn) to anyone who would knit so many pairs of socks for the government war effort. This device was acquired by my wife as part of her collection of sewing machines and other fabric devices. While most of it is intact and works, some mystery zinc alloy attachments have undergone a terrible transformation under the effect of time and normal household humidity. The heavy zinc parts are twisted and cracking, and flaking off big cornflake-sized chunks. A check on the web shows that these problems are common and not from any abuse of these castings. One of my projects (someday, I guess, sigh) is to machine or cast replace- ments. There is just enough left to measure and draw a pattern. So if you have a project to make something that you would really like to keep around for a long while, exercise caution and start with known-good alloys. Steve in Thunder Bay, Ontario ------- Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 11:54:54 -0800 From: "Bob May" Subject: Re: Lathe cleaning FWIW, most of the handles and other trim on cars used to be pot metal castiongs which got chromed so that they would last. If you see what is a cast part and it's chromed, it is probably pot metal underneath. In the late '60s, the car companies started using plastic instead of pot metal and they pretty much haven't looked back at pot metal since. Bob May http://nav.to/bobmay NEW! http://bobmay.astronomy.net ------- Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 16:35:09 -0500 From: "David Booth" Subject: Re: Re: Lathe cleaning [Zamak and Other Zinc Alloys] I have an RCA Loudspeaker in my antique radio collection which has the same problem. I've talked with many people (i.e. museum curators and fellow radio collectors) about this, and the general consensus of opinion is that the only thing to be done is stabilize the item by placing it in a controlled environment. The people at the Smithsonian Institution told me they experimented with various exterior coatings, with little or no success. Several people I spoke to said they have tried coating the inside of the casting (where it won't show) with clear epoxy, but of course that doesn't stop the exterior spalling. ------- Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 19:26:58 -0600 (CST) From: dswrx~xxwebtv.net Subject: Re: Re: Lathe cleaning [Zamak and Other Zinc Alloys] I have read... (model railroader magazine, i think) that when parts are cast, the purity of the alloy will affect the longevity of the casting. I have model locomotives made of this alloy (zamak) that are now 49 years old, and still as solid as the day they were made. I also have items cast with this same alloy that are mostly oxides and crumbling. This occurred in the range of 3 to 5 years after they were cast. (estimated) The parts on my 1955 Craftsman/Atlas are still in good shape. Leo (pearland, tx) ------- Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 00:13:59 EST From: LouD31M066x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Re: Lathe cleaning [Zamak and Other Zinc Alloys] Prewar die castings for Lionel Electric Trains had same problem. Postwar trains do not have the problem. Pot metal alloy apparently was whatever went into the pot and with passage of time bad effects show up. Louis ------- Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2002 12:01:53 -0500 From: "piggy" Subject: Re: Thanks for help on 101.07301 and new question For the info of lathe owners here, I will soon have the capability to make compound and cross slide nuts to fit existing screws. I can make nuts for screws as small as 1/2 10 acme and instead of tapping them with a pre- made tap I can thread them on my lathe to fit a slightly worn screw which results in no backlash which I like. In the near future I will also be making acme screws to fit if I have an example to copy. The need to do this came from my wanting to fix my atlas lathe and not wanting to spend the money for a new nut or nut/screw combo, so I learned to make a bit for internal acme threads of that small size. I will try soon to do a small write up on how to make the bit for those that want to try it, the first three bits I made did not work well but they worked. My 4th was a charm as it works fine. It is kinda tedious to thread that small hole lol. don ------- Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 15:39:45 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Re: METRIC Sun, 1 Dec 2002, Guillermo Contreras asked about metric gearboxes. I've quoted the various messages below. First point, I'd never heard of an Atlas metric gearbox. Having read the description it's apparent that, with the 9-position lever locked in one position, the gearbox is being used strictly as a range selector. This means that if you have the change gears set up to cut 3 mm pitch when the 5-position lever is in the "A" position, if you move to the "B" position it will cut 1.5 mm, "C" will cut .75 mm, "D" will cut .375 mm, and "E" will cut .175 mm. presuming that your lathe is equiped with longitudinal and cross power feeds they will be affected in the same way. Regarding which one position to engage with the right lever, it will be #1, for 4, 8, 16, 32, 64, and 128 TPI. In this position the gearbox has a 1:1 ratio after the range selection has been made with the left lever. So you will still have to change out change gears but with a metric lead screw you will be able to get a precise metric pitch instead of the approximations generated by the gear trains Atlas provides for use with an inch-based lead screw. By the way, what pitch is your new metric lead screw. I hadn't thought carefully about this prior to this discussion. There's a fair likelihood you chose 3 mm, better would be 2.5 mm, it works out better for the dividing and multiplying processes necessary to gear for other pitches. You've remarked on metric gearboxes having been available from South Bend and Boxford. In fact SB has a photo of such a gearbox in "How to Run a Lathe", and at one point I had access to a Boxford equivalent of that book which showed exploded views of the inch and metric gearboxes. This was very instructive to me, it made it clear to me that inch gear boxed use a dividing process to select between different pitches whereas metric gearboxes use a multiplying process. In an inch gearbox, after going through the range dividing process on the left lever, the right selector drives from a single constant range to the cone gears to select the fine ratio (16, 18, 20, or whatever). On the metric gearbox the cone of gears receives its drive directly from the range selector and the drive is from the cone to the output shaft through the gears in the selector lever. Because of these diferences an inch gearbox will never make a satisfacory metric gearbox except for the range selector function. And in addition to operating in the reverse mode of that which is appropriate to selection of metric pitches, or rather because of it, the gears in the cone are not correct for selection of metric pitches. I haven't thought that out carefully yet so I can't tell you what the appropriate gears would be. If you're determined to go for broke on the metric gearbox idea your best bet would be to find an SB or Boxford, as you've already tried to do, or to get the Modeltec articles on building a gearbox for the 6" lathe and re-engineer the design by scaling it up to fit the 12" and reversing the drive sequence of the right end of the mechanism so the drive ran from the cone gears to the output shaft. Regarding the threading dial, on their metric gearbox SB uses one with 4 different gear ratios, you should do a little research on that subject. Even if you use a single ratio threading dial, firstly you need to get a gear that will mesh correctly with your metric lead screw, though I'm not certain of the number of teeth it should have (maybe 20 or 40 for a 2.5 mm lead screw, maybe 24 or 48 for 3 mm, but as I said, I'm not sure). Then, as was suggested by another respondent, it's likely that if you always close the split nuts on the same mark you will probably pick up your thread correctly. For fine threads this might involve a rather long wait so you should do some research to determine what other marks are suitable for various pitches. This is getting a bit long now so I think I'll stop. I hope this has been useful information. If it generates more questions please ask, I'll try to be helpful. Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2002 23:43:30 +0100 From: "Guillermo Contreras" Subject: Re: METRIC Jean Claude: Thx for the info. I do have this supplement but I hate to have to reverse the spindle direction to come back to the starting point to make the next pass... For most of my jobs, I have managed to get by up to now but I have a job coming in that requires some 150 M30 threads! As for the metric QCGB, I do not agree; Atlas did offer these and they look exactly like the imp. boxes only that one of the selectors is in a "fixed" position (right selector but do not know in which pos.); Atlas even offer the feed selector chart plate, lead screw and nut assembly but at a price! I know that South Bend and Boxford also offered similar boxes but my quest for the past 5 years has not been successful. I did find a South Bend/Boxford metric box on ebay but was eventually out bid! ------- Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 19:14:02 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: METRIC I don't think you need to change the gearbox. It should have all the ratios you need. The leadscrew has to be changed, of course, and also the threading dial. I'm not sure what number of teeth would be best for the gear on the threading dial, since it is not based on the 8 TPI leadscrew for inch threading. You'd need to make up a new index plate for the QC gearbox that is marked in mm/thread rather than threads/inch. Jon ------- Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 19:18:32 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: METRIC You don't need to back up due to the gearbox, you need this due to the non-metric leadscrew pitch. If you put a metric leadscrew in there, you will no longer need to back up the lathe, as long as you get the threading dial figured out, too. Even mm pitches seem pretty simple, but some of the coarser threads might need you to engage only at certain positions of the threading dial. I suspect it very likely is the SAME gearbox, just with a different plate and a bolt somewhere to lock one of the handles. Jon ------- Date: Mon, 02 Dec 2002 03:17:12 -0000 From: "David J Hatzenbuhler" Subject: Re: METRIC If you have the metric leadscrew and half nuts you are most of the way there. Whether the gears are Module or Diamatral Pitch is largely irrelevant. The number of teeth in a ratio is what matters. The pitch of the leadscrew determines which thread system is the standard setup. Right now the lathe should cut metric threads but without the proper gear chart it is unknown what pitches will result from what gear lever combinations. The threading dial will still need the proper metric worm gear to mesh with your metric leadscrew. You shouldn't have to reverse the spindle with the metric leadscrew unless you can't get the right gear for the threading dial. You will need a revised gear chart. You may have to do a little math and make up your own gear chart especially if the metric leadscrew is an orphan part.... :-O Atlas/Clausing may have the gear chart plaques and the threading dial gear. I found and have since lost a description of how to use the 127/100 transposing gears to give accurate Metric leads with the Imperial leadscrew. The 127/100 gives you threads per cm so setting the gearbox for 5tpi would give you 5 threads per cm or .5 threads per mm. ------- Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 07:24:50 -0500 From: Chabannes Rene N Contr ASC/YCD Subject: RE: Re: METRIC Unless you have a long thread engagement or must be accurate over a lengthy span, using the right gears to approximate a metric thread should be adequate. Many foreign machines sold in this country over the years are really metric that approximate approximate english threads. I don't know how long a thread engagement it takes before you run into trouble. You'd run into trouble making a long feed screw for a mill, for example. We had three HES lathes and never had trouble with one diameter engagements. This could also be an issue if you need maximun strength. Rene N. Chabannes (Titan) ASC/YC - Production Operations C-17 SPO, WPAFB, OH 937-255-1042 (DSN 785-1042) ------- Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 22:45:09 +0100 From: "Guillermo Contreras" Subject: Re: Re: METRIC Anthony & co., pls continue. I have enjoyed all responses and this is how far I have gotten: - Atlas 3996. Well pointed out. The "metric" Atlas was in fact sold under refs. 3965 & 3975 the dif being in the bed length. - Lead screw pitch. 3/4 o.d. 2mm pitch (strange combination of inch/mm) courtesy of Clausing. Original replacements were still available several years ago. - Using the 127T conversion gear would not solve the problem entirely as I would still not be able to disengage the nuts. Back to square one though still cutting metric! - Though simple in concept, and wild, changing the lead screw/nut assembly whilst keeping the imp gear box might be a solution though I doubt it! - Gear type is irrelevant to the final displacement of the carriage once the nuts are engaged though I would opt for module 1.5 for the sake of smoothness and low noise. - I now have the break down of the gear box and it is the far right plunger assembly (p#10-1586 though this ref # does not show clearly) that remains fixed with a pin (p#568-036). I have not had the chance to study the breakdown but there seems to be more gears on the left hand cluster (5 Vs. 1). There is only 1 gear chart selection (p#130-071). This would conclusively show that, indeed, there was a specific metric lathe model. - Threading dial. Though extensive (and omitting the diagram that I made, though I could send it to those interested for further study) I will quote on a reply that I sent recently to a fellow ME in the UK regarding metric threading dials. This is my conclusion of several years of search and is a simplified version of a text found in some long forgotten (read lost) text book, not for the faint hearted! "...In principal, the procedure to follow is the same as you would using a lathe with an imp lead screw and its dial the only dif being that you need a cluster of gears as no one single gear will cover all the thread ranges and depending on the threading dial design, for some pitches you will not be able to find a match. Enclosed you will find the basic idea of what's involved and this should be adapted to your particular lathe thus no dim are given. You should keep in mind that using any graduation represents 1/8 of a turn, using the numbered graduations represents 1/4 using any opposite 2 represents 1/2 and using any single numbered mark represents a full turn. Calculating the combination of dial graduation / gear to use is somewhat of a trail and error exercise until you find the correct combination but once you have found these its a simple thing to make a chart for future use. First we must understand that the base pitch is the distance that the carriage will travel in mm when the lead screw has been engaged and this is the figure that we will be working with; taking this into account you can use the following formula Bp= Zt x Lsp x Dg Bp= Base pitch Zt= # teeth in gear Lsp= Lead screw pitch in mm Dg= dial graduation used i.e. 1/4, 1/2 or 1. Tp= pitch of thread to cut in mm Once you have have the Bp you plug into the following Bp / Tp = whole number If of the result of the above is a whole number, that is the correct combination of gear and dial gage setting to use. Sounds complicated but once you have made your chart it should be a piece of cake!!! Example: Tp to be cut: M3 Gear selected: Z14 Lsp= 6 Dg= 1/8 14 x 6 x 1/8= 10.5 ; 10.5 / 3= 3.5 So if we were to select any mark on the dial to engage our lead screw it would not work as the net result is not a whole number. Lets try using a dif mark on the dial keeping the rest of the details unchanged, say using only the numbered marks (1,2,3,4,): 14 x 6 x 1/4 = 21 ; 21 / 3 = 7 So, if we were to engage the lead screw on any numbered mark of the dial, the threading tool would enter the thread correctly...." I have never heard from this chap since and I presume he is also a bit puzzled and working on it. By the way, he does have the metric gear box (Boxford). Iam still looking for the owner of that elusive "metric Atlas" and it seems that I am far from finding him. Did Atlas/Clausing ever sell any metric units??? ... nice to see that this topic has stirred up such a response and I hope that the above will continue it. Rgds ------- Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2002 05:42:28 -0700 From: "Mike Bennett" Subject: Re: Steady rest Wayne, I think I may have ground what I was looking for. This one has a six inch ID and is reasonable priced. Now I just have to find someone with a mill here local to help finish the base. Thanks for your help. http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/MLA-9.html Regards, Mike Bennett ------- Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 11:10:13 -0500 From: "Bill Hardin" Subject: Website Hello, Group Most of you know that I am struggling to get a website up to support users of the Atlas and Craftsman lathes. A retirement hobby, if you will. Learning a new skill, like HTML, after Social Security, is in the "old dog, new tricks" category. In any case, my schedule is to be fully operational by January 1st. In the meantime, I invite you to watch me stumble by logging on occasionally www.homeshopsupply.com There is a place to comment and suggest, and there is a pretty picture of the nicest 109.20630 I've seen. I hope this will become a valued resource for many of you. Thanks, Bill ------- Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 13:44:14 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Re: An Atlas Timeline: Richard Stines In a message dated Tue, 10 Dec 2002 23:22:45 -0000, Art Volz in Metal_Shapersx~xxyahoogroups.com writes: << Click on the URL to see an interesting historical timeline constructed by Richard Stines on Atlas Press and Clausing-International: http://members.aol.com/plalbrecht2/atlashistory.htm >> Very interesting. One *major* omission is no mention of the Atlas 12" lathe. It would be very interesting if dates of production of specific model numbers of Atlas and Craftsman machines (as well as the other brands mentioned) could be inserted into the time line. A list of standard equipment and specs per model could also be added, maybe as clickable links. And dates when certain accessories and attachments were available. My primary interest is in the Atlas and Atlas-built Craftsman equipment but the information would also be good for the other product lines held by the corporation. This could be the start of some serious industrial archaeology. ------- Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 03:01:55 -0000 From: "jdmichael2001 " Subject: Re: Want to buy steady rest for 12" Atlas Michael: You might check the website at: http://www.statecollegecentral.com/metallathe/ where there is a casting kit for a steady rest. I've not bought anything from him (yet) but I've heard his products well spoken of, and on the phone he's personable and knowledgeable. Jan ------- Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 10:42:58 -0500 From: "Bill Hardin" Subject: RE: Craftsman Label >>> Hello, Does anyone have a good digital photo of the Craftsman label that appears below the headstock on the bed (109.20630)? I would like to make a replacment decal. The photo needs to be as square as possible to the front of the decal to get the proper shape, size and color. Also is the label the same on the Atlas Craftsman lathes? <<< I am having a number of those made, if you can hang on awhile. I also have a current label from another Craftsman product, if you are not a purist. Bill Hardin www.homeshopsupply.com Craftsman & Atlas Lathe Support ------- Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2002 22:20:32 -0000 From: "Ernest Lear" Subject: Re: Craftsman Label Get in contact with me direct at Ernestx~xxelear2.fsnet.co.uk. as I have product replacement decals 2" & 1" dia. for my lathe that I'm now restoring. And I'm can provide all that you will need. Regards Ernest ------- Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 18:03:51 EST From: HUNLEY31x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Lead screw keyway > Why does the keyway extend the entire length of my lead screw? > (A/C 101.07403) Does this help the half nut engagement? There is a bevel gear mounted on the back of the carriage apron that has a matching keyway. This gear is always engaged with the lead screw. This is the reason you can use the cross feed without engaging the half nuts. I think... Hank ------- Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 00:55:50 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Lead screw keyway John Glowacki wrote: > Why does the keyway extend the entire length of my lead screw? > (A/C 101.07403) Does this help the half nut engagement? No, it drives the power cross-feed on "F" model lathes. The leadscrew on "D" model lathes without power crossfeed normally do not have the keyway. Jon ------- Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2002 09:42:51 -0500 From: Ronald Thibault Subject: Re: Re: Back to the TH42 lathe part 2.. sorry >I see people referring to TH42 lathes a lot. What exactly is a TH42? Mike: The "T" means Timken bearings. "H" horizontal countershaft (the more typical); there were also "V" vertical (countershaft 4 step pulley above spindle), and the Under Drive setup with the motor and countershaft in the cabinet below the lathe. I do not know if there was a special designation for it. "42" is the length of the bed (total) in inches, in this case 42 would be 24" between centers once the head and tailstock are installed. The other common length was 54" or 36" between centers. Ron Thibault Warrenville, SC USA http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/t/h/thib9564/ ------- Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 17:27:29 -0000 From: "Derf " Subject: Re: Atlas vs. Craftsman 6" The major difference between the Atlas and Craftsman lathes is the little nameplates. The Craftsman "roller" bearings are Timken. The "dividing head" is the indexed bull gear. Cheers, Derf ------- Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2002 18:46:11 -0000 From: "mrb37211 " Subject: Change Gears I finally dug around until I found that the change gears for the Atlas 6x18 are 24 pitch, 14.5 degree pressure angle. What are the pitch and pressure angle for the other lathes Aatlas made? I'm particularly interested in those for the latest 10F's -- the ones for which a QC gearbox could be obtained. Thanks, Charles ------- Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 00:14:18 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Change Gears Atlas-built 9", 10", & 12" lathes use 16 DP 14.5 degree pressure angle gears. I think there may be two different bores for the lead screw depending on when the lathe was built. Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 11:35:18 -0000 From: "Robert Weersing " Subject: Re: Change Gears Hello Anthony: The 9", 10", 12" Were all the same EXCEPT the early 9" had a thinner hub. You could use the later model gears on an early 9" by turning the hub down until it was the same thickness as the rim. This mod is published by Clausing. Bob TH42 Atlas "F" 1024 Atlas "D" 618 Atlas U.S. Burke Millrite ------- Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2002 17:26:12 +0100 From: "Latheworks" Subject: Re: indexing bull gear Just in case anybody is interested, Clausing no longer supply the bull gear indexed as it was in the past i.e. 60holes; the new bull gears are supplied with 4 sets of 3 holes on a PCD... I found out when I replaced mine but was not told when I placed my order! ------- Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2002 00:52:49 EST From: n8as1x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Gear Pitch add 2 to the number of teeth of any gear & divide the gear diameter into that no. to ascertain the pitch (diametral)........no. teeth + 2 / d. = pitch ... best wishes. docn8as ------- Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 14:46:44 -0000 From: "Horace Steven " Subject: Re: T - Cross Slide [KIT ADAPTED TO ATLAS] wrote: > I am currently starting to machine the casting of the T slotted > cross slide sold by http://www.sc-c.com/metallathe/ for my 12" Atlas. > Has anybody completed this project? I bought a kit from MLA and machined it for a 10" lathe, same dimensions as the 12". I found there was a lot of extra metal in the castings, had to cut off a lot of metal to get it to the dimensions. I had sold my lathe before I finished the kit, so I sold the kit to a guy I met on Chaski's board (I think). He ended up adapting it to a South Bend lathe, or was planning to, I never heard from him after I sent the finished kit to him. I had to buy the T-slot cutter, cost about $25 IIRC. Did the job on my Van Norman 12, not too hard, had to figgure out how to clamp it up for some of the cuts. Off-Set the L-bracket in my new 12X36 HF lathe in a 4-jaw to machine the dovetail in the bottom, that was tricky to get dialed in true. Let me know if you have any questions, I have a few pictures somewhere I could send. Steve ------- Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 18:06:37 -0000 From: "Gary " Subject: Simpson Supremacy Brand Just found this group while researching my lathe, it is a model 109 20603. I posted some pics in a new album of the lathe, chucks, model plate and name decal. It would appear that these lathes appeared under a number of different brands although I have been unable to get any info at all on the Simpson Supremacy Brand. My suspicion is that it was for Canada only, possibly sold through Simpson Sears here. Would be interested in any info anyone else has on this brand. I obtained the lathe for $200. Canadian and it works fairly well if you don't overload it. As you can see from the photos I have the four jaw chuck and faceplate that seem to be the right fit for it. I bought a 4" three jaw chuck from Busy Bee tools but it really is too heavy in comparison to the four jaw. I had a spare three jaw from my unimat so I made a mounting plate for the 109 and have used it. ------- Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2002 13:57:19 -0500 From: "Bill Hardin" Subject: RE: Simpson Supremacy Brand Gary, The 109.20630 was made by Double A Engineering. The files section of this group has AADOCS, which will include a manual for the lathe. Bill Hardin www.homeshopsupply.com Craftsman & Atlas Lathe Support ------- Date: Thu, 09 Jan 2003 21:19:56 -0500 From: Ronald Thibault Subject: Re: Phase II toolpost mod > About a year ago I got that PhaseII for my 10F and it works > well. But I have never liked the mount. It moves around too much > on the compound. Overtightening things on the compound cause the > compound to break. So I was thinking of milling the base of the > unit to have a sliding fit in the compound slot. All that would > be required is a slight ridge -- say 1mm -- to locate the unit. > Has anybody made this mod? If so, how does it work? Frank: Make a ring to fit over the bottom of the shaft, that acts as a spacer to fill in the area of the compound slot. Like the bottom of the rocker toolpost. Ron Thibault Warrenville, SC USA http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/t/h/thib9564/ ------- Date: Sat, 11 Jan 2003 05:00:38 -0500 From: "wayne" Subject: Re: Re: mill arrived The Sears web site for parts etc. is : www3.sears.com All you should need is the model #. like 10107403 Wayne Burner ------- Date: Thu, 16 Jan 2003 22:39:59 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Change Gear for Atlas Gary Roth writes: << I have a need for a replacement 96 tooth change gear for an Atlas 10D. This item is not available from Clausing and I haven't seen anything on eBay. Anybody have one they would like to part with? Or if a Craftsman compatible part is available, the part number and URL link please. >> You're probably not going to have a lot of luck finding an original Atlas part. 96 tooth change gears were dropped from the specifications when they added th 16/32 stud gear in place of the 32 only. This was more than 50 years ago. Presuming your primary interest is the functionality of the 96 tooth gear, your best bet is to check with Boston Gear or Browning for a 96 tooth 16 DP 14-1/2 deg. Pressure Angle change gear. Measure the width, bore, and keyways and have the information available when you contact them. Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 03:17:32 -0000 From: "brewerpaul " Subject: 6"Atlas: what setscrew do I need? Sorry, I don't know all the correct terminology... Inside the headstock of my 6" Atlas, there is a cluster of pulleys on the spindle. To the right of this there is a large gear which can be disengaged from the pulleys by pulling out a pin on the side of the gear (BTW-- why would you ever want to do this?). Lately, this pin has been working itself out once in a while so that the pulleys are still spinning but the spindle and work are standing still. I noticed a threaded hole in the groove of one of the pulleys and figured there was a setscrew down there which would lock the pin in place. (The hole is right above the pin). However, there IS no setscrew in there. What size screw do I need? I'd hate to have to buy some monster assortment of setscrews just to find the ONE I need...Thanks in advance. Paul ------- Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 22:23:50 EST From: LouD31M066x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: 6"Atlas: what setscrew do I need? 8-32x3/16 headless set screw cup point from owner's manual pulley is unengaged when in back gear (slow hi torque mode) Louis ------- Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 11:09:46 -0000 From: "tomin130 " Subject: Re: 6"Atlas: what setscrew do I need? Paul: One thing you should know. The hole in the pulley missing the set screw is for oil only. The only function of the screw is to plug the hole. It is not for locking the pulley to the spindle shaft. Most likely the reason the locking pin is disengaging is that the mating hole in the pulley has been worn over time, possibly by the pin not being fully seated. It's also possible that the ball and spring retaining the pin in the gear are missing. Also, you may find, as I did on my 10" Atlas, that there is a second mating hole in the pulley, 180 degrees from the one that lines up with the oil hole. This one, if it is there on the 6", is probably not worn. I assume that what you say is a 6" Atlas really is an Atlas. Flat bed ways, roller bearing headstock, 1" diameter spindle nose. If it is, I am a bit surprised you didn't ask about the function of the other two gears on the shaft behind the spindle. Unless, of course, yours are missing. These are the back gears that Louis referred to. When using the back gears, the locking pin is pulled out from the pulley, and the spindle serves as an axle for the pulley to drive through the back gears. This is why the hole is provided in the pulley for oil. Get a copy of the parts list, price list, set-up and tear- down/assembly instructions directly from the Clausing Service Center, (574)533-0371. $5.00 plus postage and the cost of the phone call. Worth its weight in gold. Tom ------- Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 10:48:53 -0800 From: "Bob May" Subject: Re: 6"Atlas: what setscrew do I need? That pin is one of two that have to get moved to get the backgears going. I assume that the one that you are having problems with is the one that spins about with the spindle. That one, on my machine, has a thumbnut on it to keep it in place. When it is in, you are in direct drive and when it is out and the hub is held in place by a pin on the side of the headstock towards you from the spindle (it will go towards the left to engage the hub) which takes the force of the gearing to drive the spindle at a lower speed. Don't pull that front pin out all the way as you will then need to pull the screw on the front and get the spring and ball back into place again! Bob May http://nav.to/bobmay NEW! http://bobmay.astronomy.net ------- Date: Sun, 19 Jan 2003 16:53:40 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: 6" Atlas Back Gear (Was Re: 6"Atlas: what setscrew do I need?) The description below appears to apply to the AA lathe also known as the 109. First point to be made, a 109 is NOT an Atlas, it was built by AA Somethingorother. I know they are both called Craftsman by Sears but they were made by different manufacturers. The only significant parts that are interchangable between the AA and the Atlas are the change gears, this being more or less a coincidence. While all lathes are similar in principal, the details can be substantially different. An AA is an AA and an Atlas is an Atlas, and never the twain shall meet! On the Atlas-built 6" there is a pin which locks the bull gear to the cone pulley for direct drive. These are the higher 8 speeds. When you wish to run the spindle at a slower speed you pull the pin in the bull gear far enough that you can freely move the bull gear independently of the cone gear. Then you swing a lever behind the spindle which rotates the shaft on which the back gear assembly revolves. Because the back gear shaft is mounted to the headstock via eccentric journals, when the lever is rotated towards the operator it moves the axis of the back gear assembly towards the spindle and thus engages with the bull gear and the small gear at the left end of the cone pulley. The drive in back gear is form the countershaft through the belt to the cone pulley, then through the small gear at the left of the cone pulley to the large gear on the back gear assembly, then along the back gear quill to the small gear at the right end of the back gear assembly, then across to the bull gear which is keyed to the spindle, thus driving the spindle at a reduced rate relative to that of the cone pulley. Is that clear? Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2003 02:45:05 -0000 From: "too_many_tools " Subject: Atlas Mill Variations I recently purchased an Atlas horizontal mill. It is a model MF with the serial number 002996. Upon researching the web and Usenet, I am unable to find a source that discusses the variations of this mill. The literature that I have seen indicates the models MFC, MIC, MHC, MFB, MIA, MIA-G, MFA, MFA-G, MHA, MHA-G, MI, MI-G, MF(the one I have), MF-G, MH, MH-G exist. Can anyone point me to somewhere that discusses this subject? I am also looking for a source of parts too. (Isn't everyone? ;<) ) Unfortunately, this mill has a broken countershaft hanger that needs fixing or replacement. Finally, I am looking for information that indicates what accessories were shipped with the mill and what other accessories might be available? Thanks in advance for any assistance you might be able to offer. Too_Many_Tools ------- Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 23:46:34 -0000 From: "cmtwork " Subject: How do you add calibrated handwheel markings to Atlas lathe? What is the best way to add calibrated markings (0.001, 0.005 and 0.010") to the Atlas style handwheels (all wheels except tailstock)? Is there an aftermarket setup available or is it a do it yourself project? Any links to further data would be great. Pictures of finished setups would help also. Craig ------- Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 18:46:48 -0600 From: Ronald R Brandenburg Subject: Re: How do you add calibrated handwheel markings to Atlas lathe? Well, just off the top of my head I'd say the first thing to do would be to determine how far the piece moves in a single revolution of the hand wheel, i.e. the number of threads per inch. Take this number and divide it into 360 to get the number of degrees it moves per unit of travel. Set the hand wheel or collar, should you want to be able to zero it, and using a rotary table, or a dividing head, and the edge of an end mill make small cuts. Longer cuts every 5th one. My cross feed moves 0.1 per revolution. So, take 360° divided by 100 to get 3.6° per 0.001. This, of course, works with the radius so for every 0.001 you take off the radius that's 0.002 off the diameter so if you want a direct read take the amount of travel, double it, and divide that into 360 to get half-thousands. This gives you a direct reading or for every 0.001 you dial in you are removing 0.001 from your work. Simple really, when you think about it. Ron ------- Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 20:18:15 -0500 From: Ronald Thibault Subject: Re: How do you add calibrated handwheel markings to Atlas lathe? Craig: I made a new dial for my first lathe, using a paper dial strip. I have a short article on my web site (address below). Ron Thibault Warrenville, SC USA http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/t/h/thib9564/ ------- Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 22:25:28 -0600 From: Rodent Subject: Re: How do you add calibrated handwheel markings to Atlas lathe? I think he means how do you actually make the marks -- ie scribing the lines on the handwheel. You need a way to hold and index the handwheel or whatever, and a way to scribe the line. This could be done on a lathe or a mill with a rotary table. On say a 12" Atlas with the indexing holes on the bull gear, you could mount the handwheel to a taper inserted in the spindle, sharpen a tool to cut a fine line, then use the longitudinal feed to scribe the line. Rotate the spindle the appropriate number of index holes and scribe the next line. A set of number stamps would be used mark the values. ------- Date: Tue, 21 Jan 2003 22:44:21 -0600 From: "jerdal" Subject: Re: How do you add calibrated handwheel markings to Atlas lathe? > I think he means how do you actually make the marks -- ie scribing > the lines on the handwheel. Sharpen a tool to cut a > fine line, then use the longitudinal feed to scribe the line. Ron's method involves a paper strip that goes around something of larger diameter, like the chuck or faceplate. You divide the strip up with the required number of lines (plus one) and wrap it around. A pointer, and a means of holding the spindle complete the tooling. You position at a line, then cut the mark, repeating as needed. A means to vary the movement for 0.001, 0.005 and 0.010 marks is handy, use a carriage stop and blocks since you will be moving the carriage to cut. An hss threading tool is good, don't use carbide, as you will be reversing out of the cut. If you insist on retracting the tool, you likely won't cut the marks all the same. Since you are working at a smaller diameter, the positional accuracy of the scribing can be better than the line positioning accuracy in thousandths (although the positioning accuracy in degrees is the same plus the user error). I have done it several times, and it works well. Read his blurb for more details. Jerrold ------- Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 04:44:25 -0000 From: "timharvey99 " Subject: Re: How do you add calibrated handwheel markings to Atlas lathe? I was inspired by Ron's excellent website, so I went ahead and made some dials, too. His suggestion to use a printer to make the graduations is perfect. I did a few things differently, but hey, that's half the fun of it. I used a 45-degree diagonal cut where the scale ends meet as they wrap, and also made that the point where I drilled the clamp screw hole. If you are right-handed, on a 200-increment wheel, put the break at 150 or so. If you make graduations on both sides of the scale (above and below the numbers, see the crossfeed one), you can just skim some tiny cuts off the dial O.D. when you are turning it to size, trying the scale until the graduations line up. Glue the scale on and wrap rubber bands to hold it. So why not do the tailstock? That's actually what got me going on this stuff, since the original scale is so pathetic. It was easy. Note that the numbers should get bigger backwards, i.e., right to left. One full revolution advances the quill .100", so a 0-to-100 scale is appropriate. I chose to go 0-to-200 on the crossfeed because I'm mentally lazy, but take your pick. I put photos of these two dials in the Photos section under Member Projects. The pointers are just sharpened and bent welding rod pounded into slightly smaller drilled holes. Making these dials was not a lot of work, and bang-for-buck, made a huge difference in user satisfaction. I highly recommend it. ------- Date: Wed, 22 Jan 2003 11:31:38 EST From: catboat15x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Calibrated hand wheels I added larger dials to my old 6 inch Atlas (purchased when Atlas went out of business sale. Then sold in a weak moment, Damn!) I made larger dials of aluminum with yellow plastic pipe rings with the calibrations. I made the calibrations by using a CAD program to print out a strip with the lines and numbers then adjusting the scale of the print out to exactly fit around my new ring. Then when it was done put several coats of varnish over the paper. Lasted for several years (till I sold the lathe). Put new calibrations on cross, compound and even the right end of the lead screw. Also added the "poor mans" power cross feed. This was a drum on both the free end of the lead screw and the cross feed. A cord ran from the drum to a pulley on the bench to the drum on the cross feed screw. Kept a chunk of strong (apparently in-extensible, like first year physics problems) cord and when I needed a smooth cross feed to face locomotive wheels, I just took a few turns of the cord around both drums, put the change gears in fine feed mode and let the cord turn the cross feed drum by the drum on the lead screw. There is always a way to do a job! The right way, the wrong way and then my way. Now looking at my 12 inch to add better dials still thinking since my eye balls are about the same age as the rest of my worn out, creaky and tired body. John Meacham High Desert of California, Palmdale, Littlerock. ------- Date: Sun, 26 Jan 2003 20:24:02 -0500 From: "Bill Hardin" Subject: RE: gear cover door > question. will a chasing dial from a 109-20630 > work on a.109-21270? thanks i am new to this group. The part numbers for all parts in the thread dial for the 109.20630 and the 109.21270 are the same. Bill Hardin www.homeshopsupply.com Craftsman & Atlas Lathe Support ------- Date: Thu, 20 Feb 2003 13:19:31 -0000 From: "Damon " Subject: Re: what is a full set of gears? > > Can somebody email me, and let me know how many gears are in a full > > set for a 10" lathe? 20,20,24,32,36,40,44,46,48,52,54,56,64,64,64. This is extrapolated from the thread chart. Having all of these gears will let you thread any of the pitches listed from 4 to 96tpi, 0.5-7mm (with gaps), and feeds from .0019 to .0087. The 3rd 64TPI gear is used exclusively for feeds. Also the complete set should include three bushings and one 'spacer' gear. HTH, Damon ------- Date: Fri, 21 Feb 2003 21:18:40 EST From: LouD31M066x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Re: what is a full set of gears? Real men thought they once made a mistake,but, then discovered they were wrong. Real men never ask directions or read a map and always take the scenic route. Real men never ask why the coffee is cold, the toast burnt or why their duds are still on the floor. There is a reason for all this...a representative of the other gender is always willing to tell us all about our alleged imperfections....again and again and again... Good thing it's kind a hard to hear all that well intentioned advice and reminders over the sound of shop machinery... Louis ------- Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 12:53:57 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: 109.21280 Is this an Atlas 109? Bill Hardin wrote: >Jon >I don't think you read my note. I know the 109s were supposedly made >by AA, and 101s by Atlas. What I said, and tried to prove, was that >Atlas did indeed make a 109 lathe - the 109.21280 Well, I have no way of knowing the real truth. But, it seems VERY unlikely, as Sears had a very well developed system for numbering models sold under the Craftsman name. The first 3 digits were always the manufacturer ID, and were applied across the board of product lines. So, Atlas machines of all types, metal lathes, wood lathes, planers, table saws and whatever, were labeled 101.xxxxx. Many other tool manufacturers had their own manufacturer ID. It seems very unlikely Sears would break their long adherence to such a system. I suppose there is the possibility that AA started importing or reselling some other maker's machine to Sears under their AA label. It is even conceivable Atlas sold machines to AA, although the prismatic bed you describe definitely sounds different from any Atlas product I've seen. There were TONS of outfits making small lathes in the '60s, importing from all over the world, too. Many of them were very similar to each other, or knockoffs of a well-known make. Some of this may have been not that different from the Taiwan and Chinese machines of today, where hundreds of different 'labels' are applied to machines made from the same castings. Jon ------- Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 23:41:48 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Re: 109.21280 Is this an Atlas 109? In a message dated Mon, 24 Feb 2003, Bill Hardin writes: << I don't think you read my note. I know the 109s were supposedly made by AA, and 101s by Atlas. What I said, and tried to prove, was that Atlas did indeed make a 109 lathe - the 109.21280 >> You can suppose this all you want but it doesn't make sense. 101 is a Sears code for an Atlas built machine. 109 is a Sears code for an AA built machine. Even if Sears were to have convinced Atlas to build a replica of a 109 lathe they almost certainly would have given it a 101 code. Additionally, since Atlas was trying to upgrade their image and renaming themselves Clausing to aid in this effort, it seems *extremely* unlikely that they would have involved themselves with the 109 design which I think any reasonable person would declare to be enormously inferior to the Atlas 6" lathe. I hope this doesn't hurt your feelings but I think it reasonable to conclude that the suggested scenario is just "not on". Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 11:38:28 -0500 From: "Bill Hardin" Subject: RE: Re: 109.21280 Is this an Atlas 109? While I am supposing, I guess I can suppose that no one has the answer. If you are interested in why I asked the question, I have placed a photograph of the Atlas Mk 2 along with the three drawings of the 109.21280 on my web site. On the Home Page, just click on the Mystery Machine line and it will take you to the right place. I ask you to particularly notice the photograph vs. the drawing on the carriage. Since I do not own an Atlas, can you understand why I question the similarity? No, you did not hurt my feelings. I posed the question here because there are some almost as old as me, and a great many who know more than I do here. And, I like knowledgeable answers more than speculation. Thanks for your help. Bill Hardin www.homeshopsupply.com Craftsman & Atlas Lathe Support ------- Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 14:18:49 -0500 From: "Bill Hardin" Subject: RE: Re: 109.21280 Is this an Atlas 109? I made the phone call [TO CLAUSING] yesterday. It was not made by Atlas. So, what is its story. Looks like one. I have learned quite a bit in following this. Not really ready to put it all down just yet. I do have a copy of a Sears manual for the 109.21280, which is what started this whole thing. I'm told those are not Atlas parts - just a little away, a thread short, but not made by Atlas. Perhaps a purloined design. With a little more help, I think we'll find an interesting story. Bill Hardin ------- Date: Mon, 24 Feb 2003 20:10:44 EST From: n8as1x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: lathe parts e bay braze up ur old one if T is torn out,bar stock works plaza machinery in vermont dave ficke at meridian dave sobel in NJ fabricate a new one out of bar stock if u need more or better addresses email me ..few other places, but all these dealers are in BUSINESS of scrapping out. best wishes docn8as ------- Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 19:07:30 -0000 From: "mikehenryil " Subject: Re: Atlas Bench-top Miller "chris strawford" wrote: > I have just committed myself to buy the equipment described below: > The machine is an Atlas Change O Matic,Model MF,Serial No 002118, > Overall Height 24" Footprint 20" X 9" Bed 4 1/2" x 18" > Swing from centre of Chuck [it has a 3 jaw chuck fitted] to bed at > lowest position 5 1/2" Trust the above is some help> > I have not seen it other than in copies of old Atlas sales > literature, but I believe the following is missing off it. The > Arbour Support Arm Assembly and the Cutter Arbour Assembly together > with the Draw In Bar. Is it possible to buy these parts? Chris UK I'd guess that neither of these parts are available from the manuafacturer anymore and that used parts will be your most likely source. Both are probably going to be pretty hard to find. Arbors on eBay seem to go for $150-200. Spacers can probably be bought off the shelf from the standard tool suppliers and you should be able to make up a draw bar pretty easily. Clausing supplies some Atlas parts (Atlas & Clausing merged) so you might try them: www.clausing-industrial.com and click on the service link to get contact info. They've been known to supply blueprints for parts that are no longer manufactured, so you might try asking for those. They'll sell you a manual for $5 or $10, too. There are also used tool dealers that tend to specialise in the smaller home-shop type tools, like Atlas. Dave Sobel and Plaza Machinery come to mind, but I don't have contact info for them handy. Mike, near Chicago ------- Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2003 22:31:35 EST From: n8as1x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Re: Atlas Bench-top Miller arbors can be shop made ......doug king ,visiting me last summer from canada decided i neded a 1 1/4 B&S 9 arbor & proceeded to turn one out on my 1895 reed 14x44, in abt 2 hours,sans spacers ( went at a totally strange machine ,like he had learned on it).....put it in spindle & indicated 10 in out & the needle didnt move .....redid the setup 2x more before i beleived it ..there had to be good fortune there , BUT doug is SOME kind of machinist!!!!!!...took me longer to make the spacers! this lathe has 3 fixed pulley feeds ,.007 being the least..he ground & set the bit so there was no sign of concentric rings., #220 cloth was all that was necessary .to finish.....thinking abt it , dont see why u cdnt take a blank #2 morse taper, shrink a oversize bar on, put between centers & turn down to 1in (7/8) & thread end 1x 12 ...shud be dead on. best wishes docn8as ps .rudy kouhaupt(sp) has a series of articles on refurbishing atl; as mill in home shop machinist mags ...think he fabricated o/head tie down......check w/ village press ------- Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2003 03:39:35 -0000 From: "mrb37211 " Subject: Re: Atlas Bench-top Miller There is another Yahoo group, Chris, Atlasshaperandmillingmachineusersgroup, which you might want to check out. They have a number of photos of the mills posted as well as copies of some "How-to" articles about techniques. Their archives include a series of emails detailing the creation of arbors from Morse Taper 2 drill shanks; the first of which appears to be message 178. And be sure to check your countryman's site http://www.lathes.co.uk/ specifically http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlasmiller/index.html and thirdly, try http://www.owwm.com/ Charles P.S. Thanks for the center height information on the mill. Sounds like a good substitute for a 10" - 12" lathe for turning live steam locomotive drivers. ------- Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 23:39:45 -0400 From: Peter Merriam Subject: Re: Atlas Bench-top Miller Chris: Further to Mike's comments, the overarm itself, on my Atlas MFB hor mill (serial 006417) is a piece of shaft 1.5 inch nominal diameter (1.499 actual) by 16 inches long, so it is easy to replace. I got one here in Dartmouth Nova Scotia last week for $23 Canadian at Metals Supermarket. The overarm and the arbor are 2.875 inches center to center and the arbor is .625 inch dia, so the arbor support should not be too difficult to make. PeterM [IN A FOLLOWUP MSG] After posting my msg to you, I got thinking about the 2.875 dimension. You should check your own machine. Your machine may vary. Good luck with search for parts. -------- Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2003 14:06:57 EST From: anthrhodesx~xxaol.com Subject: Atlas Connections (Was Re: Downfeed on shaper) In a message dated Fri, 07 Mar 2003, brianx~xxsquibb writes: << The Atlas sold by Acorn was called a Sphere. >> Brian, I'm not quite certain what you're alleging so let me tell you what little I know. The Atlas machines we're generally interested in are the various lathes, the mills, and the shapers. I know for a fact that the Atlas designed shaper that Acorn sold was marketed as "Acorn". I know you have a "Sphere" lathe and from the photos you've posted it's obviously an Atlas variant. I presume, from your statement that I've quoted at the start of this message, that your Sphere was manufactured by Acorn. I also know that several other UK manufacturers manufactured and marketed lathes based on the Atlas 10" with various degrees of alteration to the original design. Tony Griffiths' site specifically mentions the Sphere and Halifax, he also mentions Acorntools as if it were seperate from Sphere but has no info on an "Acorn" lathe, and he also mentions Raglan but in a way that suggests that the connection is only peripheral. I know that some Atlas mills wound up in the UK, so far I haven't heard of any with names other than "Atlas". So, you have a "Sphere" lathe. Do you *know* that it was manufactured by Acorn? Do you know if Acorn manufactured lathes under the "Acorn" name or under any name other than Sphere? Do you know of any Atlas shapers manufactured by Acorn under any name other than "Acorn"? Do you know of any Atlas shapers manufactured by anyone under any name other than Atlas or Acorn? Do you know of any Atlas mills manufactured by anybody other than Atlas and/or under any other name than Atlas? Do you know of any lathes based on the Atlas design made by any manufacturer other than those mentioned above or under any other name than those mentioned above? This is not intended as an inquisition, I'd just like to know the reality rather than speculations. Thanks. Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 20:34:00 +0000 From: "brianx~xxsquibb.org.uk" Subject: Re: Atlas Connections (Was Re: Downfeed on shaper) Anthony, Based in the Acton/Chiswick are of London. The Acorn Machine Tool Company was one of several agents set up to provide spares for the Atlas 10F lathes, which were shiopped over on a lease/lend basis for the war effort. They came with bed lengths of mostly 36 and 42 inches with the 48 and 54 bed being rare. Post war, and in due course, our industry began to recover. The spares need eased and the Acorn Company began to use the 'surplus' spares to build their own versions. They were badged 'Sphere', Halifax, and Acorntool lathes. My Sphere has bakelite pulleys and gear cover (and some had bakelite reverse gear cases). In 1983, the OTM Group of companies bought the Acorn Machine Tool Co and in 1990 moved the factory to Egham, Surrey. When a subsidary company, Trygear, was moved into the OTM factory, Acorn tools stopped. At this point Mike Kurn the CEO for Acorntools did a management buy out and till this day provides spares for Atlas lathes and the various clones. Brian ------- Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2003 09:37:06 -0000 From: "chris strawford" Subject: Re: Atlas Connections (Was Re: Downfeed on shaper) Brian: Is it worth contacting Mike Kern for spares for my Atlas Horizontal Milling Machine. If it is, do you have his email address please? Is there any way of dating my Atlas MF? Anyone???? Chris ------- Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2003 23:10:26 +0000 From: "brianx~xxsquibb.org.uk" Subject: Re: Atlas Connections (Was Re: Downfeed on shaper) Chris, Mike can be reached at mikekurnx~xxotmservo.com or tel 01784 434225 (day) or 01344883417 (evenings) 16 Mansfield Place, North Ascot, Berkshire, SL5 8ND No harm in contacting him Brian -------- Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2003 10:53:41 -0000 From: "Ernest Lear" Subject: Re: new member seeks accessories for an Atlas 10-F Hi Stuart, I live nearly 40-50 miles away from you, in the cider county Somerset, at Langport. Glad to see that we have another user of an Atlas 10F Machine, I have a 10F-36. A 1946 model rebuilt after many years laying in a shed unused and with many bits broken or lost. Its on the way to being totally restored to as new condition that can be got by me. It's working now and at the moment making parts for itself. Regards Ernest ------- Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2003 17:27:27 EST From: LouD31M066x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: new member seeks accessories for an Atlas 10-F For the money involved you might be better served to make a steady rest and a follower rest. Probably would develop your machinist skills also. These things are about, but, see what they bring on ebay and decide. Louis ------- Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 23:23:00 EST From: LouD31M066x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Re: making a leadscrew [VERSUS BUYING ONE] I have not looked into this,but, apparently others have. Several mentions in group. [FOR PRETHREADED STOCK] Try usual suspects Mcmaster, Enco .... I think smaller firm from Wisconsin or Minnesota was source most mentioned. Making a leadscrew is doable, but, only as last resort as accuracy of screw needs to be very good to make whole exercise worthwhile. Leadscrews tend to be hardened to resist wear and prolong accuracy. The only point of putting my oar in water is to point out that leadscrew stock is apparently available from suppliers known to at least some group members and that whacking a screw to length and grinding ends to fit bearings and however screw is linked to drive seems to be a lightyear or so quicker and probably accurate and hardened for long wear. If you go ahead and make a leadscrew you are going to be working from the leadscrew of the lathe and it is sure to have some wear and some slop in mechanism and this will be reflected in the leadscrew you make. In my opinion which has been humbled more than once. Louis ------- Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 21:12:19 -0800 From: "Patrick Lee Rooney" Subject: RE: Re: making a leadscrew Damon...think long and hard about cutting a leadscrew. I made several a few years back when I placed less value on my time, and the results were less than satisfactory. Not that the process was technically difficult, just that the screw wore very quickly. After a year of pretty heavy use, it was in worse shape than the original. I had no knowledge how to harden the finished product. By comparison, my 11" Rockwell screw which I have owned since the early 70's, showed very little wear when I replaced it earlier this year. I had to grind the end bearing diameter down a tad on the new screw to fit the new bearing, and it was VERY slow going. Hard as a diamond. I eventually replaced the Atlas screw with one scored on e-bay which was virtually new and really cheap. Making the screw was a fun and challenging project back then, but it just didn't wear well, and the first one I made was sloppy. I wouldn't do it again unless I had a rare leadscrew to replace. Good luck. Patrick ------- Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 21:00:33 -0000 From: "jdmichael2001" Subject: Re: Zamak replacement handles? McMaster Carr www.mcmastercarr.com has "Steel Balanced Crank Handles" like the crossfeed handle in a variety of sizes with revolving or stationary handles. Once at their website, a search on "crank handle" will return about 3 pages of them, with the counterbalanced handles about 3/4 of the way down. They have a starter hole for machining to your requirements. When I got my lathe the carriage traverse wheel was missing the little handle and I replaced it cleanly with a revolving handle from McMaster Carr. Press in replacement. Jan ------- Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2003 01:58:41 -0800 From: Marc Sayer Subject: Re: Re: Zamak replacement handles? From a discussion I had a few months back about this on the list: > Bill Hardin wrote: >>J & L Industrial Supply has a wide variety of cast, machined and forged >>handles. I was able to replace the broken ones on my lathe with better >>quality that looked almost the same in size and shape. Site is >>https://www.jlindustrial.com/ Bill Boy was this a good tip. I tried ordering replacement handles from Clausing, via Campbell and got the wrong parts. Turns out when they say handle, they only mean the crank portion of the handle. No wonder they were only $7 or so. For about the same price I got larger more robust handles made of steel rather than Zamak from J & L. They don't have the right ID (I got them a bit undersized so I could tap them and thread them on), and they don't have a keyway. But as I say, I'll be threading the ID to fit on the shafts and then locknut them in place. And frankly that's fine with me and no trouble to do at all. Plus these handles are easier to use and stronger by far. I also ordered a 52 piece clamping set they had on sale for $29.99. That's $20 off, and boy is it a great deal. I needed a clamping set anyway, and the T slot nuts also fit the compound on my lathe! To top it all off, not only were the prices great, but the service was unreal. I ordered it on the 3rd and it showed up at my door mid- afternoon the next day. Overnight shipping at no extra charge! The shipping was just under $10 for a fairly heavy package. I doubt I could have shipped that item via UPS ground for that, let alone next day delivery. I am very pleased and want to thank you for the tip Bill. ------- Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 00:08:49 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Can anyone tell me about model #'s for the 12"? [in atlas_craftsman] machinist360 wrote: >Does anyone know how to decipher the atlas/craftsman model numbers? >Particularly, what is the difference between a 101.07401 and a >101.28970. Any info would be appreciated. Umm, I'm not absolutely sure, there are a LOT of model numbers. But, the 07401, if it is a 12" at all, is the very first one. it would almost certainly have babbit bearings, no quick change, and 3/8" vertical thickness of the bed ways. This is essentially the 10" Atlas lathe with a taller headstock and tailstock. It would have been made between about 1936 and 1939. This model did not have power crossfeed. It is equivalent to the Atlas model "D". I have a 28910, which is a much later machine, made between 1962 and 1965, very roughly. It has Timken bearings, a QC gearbox, power crossfeed, and the bed ways are 1/2" thick. The carriage, cross-slide and compound rest are all made a bit beefier than the 10" and early 12" lathes. So, the 28970 would be made a bit later than 1965, but should be similar. Note, most of these models were sold in two "sister" versions, for instance, the 28900 had a 42" bed, and was a 12 x 24" lathe, the 28910 had a 54" bed, and was a 12 x 36" lathe. Otherwise, they were essentially identical. The bed, carriage rack and the leadscrew were the only parts differing between the two models. Jon ------- Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 17:16:39 -0000 From: "bck41" Subject: Lathe repair [POSTED TO SHERLINE LIST] Even though I had zero machine tool experience I bought the Sherline shop package and some extra tooling to play with after I retired. I have struggled some but am having a lot of fun. I am about to attempt my first serious (to me) project. I recently bought a 10" Atlas and a lot of tooling at an estate auction, it was very cheap, less than $200.00, because the leadscrew bearing/retainer, whatever the proper name is, on the tailstock end was broken and the leadscrew was loose and flopping about. The auctioneer said that it had been in good working order and it was broken while moving it up the stairs from the basement. Would Fortel aluminum be acceptable for making a replacement part? If not what would you suggest, any ideas on proper material and procedures for making this part would be appreciated. But keep it as simple as possible. BK ------- Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 18:45:37 -0000 From: "Glen Reeser" Subject: Re: Lathe repair BK, you might want to pose this question on the Atlas list. I have two 9" South Bend lathes. The tail stock end leadscrew support is a cast iron part with a lead babbit bearing. The factory would pour the bearing in place around the leadscrew. This level of precision is probably not required. Someone on the Atlas list may have a spare part you could use. Glen Reeser ------- Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 21:55:18 EST From: catboat15x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Lathe repair I would check with Clausing (do a net search) they have many parts for the Atlas still in stock. That bearing is made to break anyway. It is kind of a safety valve that will break and avoid damage to more expensive parts of the gear chain. You got a good deal if the lathe is in any kind of shape at all. John in the high desert of California 12 inch Atlas Mini Mill Rusty file ------- Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 14:08:20 +0100 From: Brian Squibb Subject: Gib strip Well I have got the swivel off my 10F and put a T-slot table in place. This gives me significantly more space above the table and also a very rigid base for a vertical slide/angle plate. I will have to make a tall toolpost to match, but that is not a problem. The gib strips are clearly not interchangable so I have to make my own. I have got the right size piece of mild but as a novice I have not made a gib strip before. Can I have some hints and tips from the experienced members on the list please? This is not for a piece of Atlas kit so I have to make my own. I am assuming I just have to chamfer the ends and put indents in where the adjusters are? Using mild steel - would brass be better? Thanks Brian ------- Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 10:28:28 -0400 (EDT) From: Kirk M Scammon Subject: Re: Gib strip John: I bought the cross slide and compound gibs for my lathe from Clausing. They were both plastic, and about 10.00 bucks. They are holding up O.K.. I still have some give in the slides, so I am in the process of learning to scrape bearing surfaces now. I wish my dad was still around, he had rescraped machines for several machine shops. Clausing does not sell the gib for the carriage, or gibs for the MF mill, but they shoud be easy to make. When I get around to scraping the mill, I will make bronze gibs with scraped bearing surfaces. If I figure out how to make a website, I will post the scraping of the lathe, and mill. But the first project is to be an x-y vice, to make sure that I don't bugger up the dovetails on the lathe. Kirk 12 x 36 A/C and MF mill ------- Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2003 11:33:42 EDT From: Sagebush9x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Gib strip My late model 12"-(28990) had plastic gibs from the factory. I made brass ones, & it improved the rigidity of the machine quite a bit. Not having a mill at the time, I hacksawed & filed them out of 1/8" brass plate, & made the indents for the screws on the drill press. HTH, Ron Moorland ------- Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 19:11:03 +0100 From: Brian Squibb Subject: Re: Gib strip Gib done - made a pointed bolt to get the indent. All on now and adjusted. The T-slot table is about 10 inches long so it has a much longer gib, so should reduce wear overall. The table is about 2 inches lower than the compound so I can get the 6inch chuck over the table. Seems to give about 6 inches of travel . With the T bed the opportunity for other tools is greatly increased. I am looking forward to putting on the vertical slide and doing milling - the table is much wider and rigid than the compound. If anyone is interested I will post a picture. Brian ------- Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2003 22:20:06 +0100 From: Brian Squibb Subject: Re: Re: Gib strip >Because he's applying these to a non-standard cross slide there is a >strong likelihood that a standard gib won't work. As much was implied >in his msg. The gibs are nearly 10" long for the new table. The same thickness though. >He might well not be happy with plastic gibs. I have no information >on the subject. I am doing milling off the table - my understanding that the plastic gibs will move about. Hence the question whether mild steel is OK or whether I should use brass >He's in the UK which means that Clausing may be a less reasonable source >for him on anything he can get locally or can make for himself. I had the right size steel bar so I made one up. I surprised myself by remembering to chamfer the ends. It works a treat, even better that the standard, previous set. Looks very promising and VERY rigid as I have been doing some milling tonight - OK I was only user 1/4 inch slot mills but it just cut smoothly and easily. Got a Jacobs No 3 chuck today on an MT2 - it is a very impressive large drill chuck opening from 0 to 17/32. Brian ------- Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 07:51:10 +0100 From: Brian Squibb Subject: Re: Re: Gib strip >Brian - Where did you get the T-slot table? Also, I've heard that >the gib should not be significantly softer than the cast iron >surfaces it rubs, else grit can become imbedded in the gib and file >away at the cast iron. Charles The T slot table came with my lathe. Looks like a home made affair - it has the correct dovetail and the nut for the leadscrew is genuine atlas (no slop either). The T slots are a bit kludgy tho. So it looks like my mild steel gib strip is correct then? As soon as I have got it finished I will post a picture. I made the tool post extension last night (to get the extra height now needed). Just need to make the T nut with a very long bolt now. Brian ------- NOTE TO FILE: Gib strips to replace plastic ones can be made from brass stock or inexpensive cold rolled steel (hardware store type) or whatever better-steel scraps you have on hand. ------- date: Wed, 09 Apr 2003 16:54:12 -0000 From: "jebob71" Subject: Re: chip tray, roof flashing? > >Anyone ever try using roof flashing, Aluminum (or copper) > >sheeting in 24"xwhatever rolls at the home warehouse stores? I think > >it could make a neat chip tray to go under the lathe. Not super > >pretty, kinda bend in place to suit deal. > I made fixed and removable chip trays for my lathe from automotive > drip trays. I detailed them in the Atlas section of my Web site (address > below). Ron Thibault Warrenville, SC USA > http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/t/h/thib9564/ For the smaller 6"x18" atlas & craftsman lathes, swipe your wife's cookie baking sheets. Not only are the large ones long enough to mount completely under the lathe, the smaller ones actually fit between the lathe legs. Finally, since they are teflon coated, easy clean up. Jeff ------- Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 23:32:20 EDT From: catboat15x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Digest Number 1435 > A lot of things are possible but not necessarily practical. And conversely, some things turn out to be practical, but not very machine shop like. When I had a lot of facing to do on my 6 inch Atlas, which has no powered cross feed as many of the 12 inch models do. I added a flanged drum to both the lead screw right end and replaced the handle on the cross slide with a simlar drum. A pulley, (clothes line type, not a marine top dollar one) and a length of good string and I had automatic feed for facing. Wrap the string around both drums, lock the carrage in place and set up appropriate gears to drive the lead screw. (Don't engage the half nuts, of course.) String is wound up on the lead screw, unwound from the cross slide drum to drive the tool across the face of the wheels I was making. Not done to save work, but for a better finish. > I had considered putting a handwheel and calibrated collar on the > outboard end of the lead screw but that is quite a project for the > occasional use. Not too big a project, when I added the "string and drum" powered cross feed on my old 6 inch Atlas, at the same time I added a calibrated collar on the lead screw. I made a disk or drum first of a convent size. Drew a scale with my CAD program. Then a cut and try process to "scale" the drawing so the paper wrapped around the drum exactly. Put it on with Duco or model airplane cement and covered with several coats of tranparent varnish. Worked fine for several years till I finally sold the lathe. (Fool that I am, wanted more swing so sold the Atlas and bought a Smithy. Woe is me!!!!) Next time I wll tell you about the wood steady rest I made to face locomotive boiler drums. John in the high desert of California 12 inch Atlas Mini Mill Rusty file ------- Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 03:12:02 -0400 From: "mertbaker" Subject: Re: Digest Number 1435 It is amazing to see what one can do using wood to make machine tools. I have seen a lathe with the TS, HS, Bed, & carriage made out of rock maple. Mert ------- Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2003 18:22:44 -0400 From: Art Eckstein Subject: Re: need parts source >Hi-could anyone tell me where to purchase a replacement for the pot >metal hanger which supports the right hand end of the lead screw on >my atlas 10 in lathe, model th54. had a small almost bad accident >and that hanger is now deformed. thanks-steve in sacto Check out Ron's page at: http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/t/h/thib9564/At las_Lathe_Leadscrew_Bearings.htm and he will tell you how to fix it! Bubba ------- Date: Thu, 01 May 2003 04:06:33 -0000 From: "Steve Black" Subject: Re: need parts source Thanks everyone for your help with my damaged lead screw bearing problem. I was turning close to the head, and laid my little six inch ruler on the ways,and, you guessed it. Didn't break the bearing, just bent it. Took the lead screw off, took the carriage apart and cleaned, reinstalled. The lead screw is now offset to the right a bit, so no thread turning, and the carriage is stiff along the ways-dont know why. Will repair the lathe, thanks again- Steve in Sacto ------- Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 15:17:35 -0000 From: "jrw064" Subject: roller steady rest? Hello, like most Craftsman/Atlas owners the headstock of my lathe(12x36) is somewhat limited for thru the headstock rifle rebarreling; my spindle has approx. 3/4" opening. I have worked a little with my steady rest that has the brass type supports that bear directly on the rotating object. Sometimes I mar the turning item, so I inquired about a roller bearing capability on the supports. I suspect that the bearings from Enco are fairly common everday quality, so one person said I needed bearings like the headstock in quality to do any good, I believe class 7, which I read to be fairly pricey and hard to acquire. Any sources for these high grade bearings? Does anyone run a roller bearing steady rest in their hobby and relative results? The chambering/threading etc needs to be as low a runout as possible. Thanks for any replies, Regards, Rick W. ------- Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 17:12:44 +0100 From: "jo barden" Subject: Re: roller steady rest? You could always use bearings for router bits, they are relatively cheap and are designed to operate at high speed (upto 20,000 rpm) and they are readily available. jo ------- Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 13:04:38 -0400 From: "mertbaker" Subject: Re: roller steady rest? For most barrel work, A fitted collar on the barrel will allow the use of the brass fingers with no danger of marring the bbl. Mert ------- Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 18:14:31 -0000 From: "Bill Collins" Subject: Re: roller steady rest? Hi Rick W. I make a lot of small cannon barrels on my lathe, a Southbend 9" model C. I made my own steady rest. The bearings I used are from old VCR heads. Although other bearings can be used like from old skate board wheels. These are a little heftier than the VCR bearings, but I have had good results using the VCR head type. Good luck and God Bless. Bill C. ------- Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 18:52:58 -0000 From: "Bill Collins" Subject: Re: roller steady rest? Hi group. I have uploaded a couple pics of my homemade steady/follower rest I made that I use on my Southbend. It can also be used as a follower rest by removing the two bolts and attaching it to the side of the carriage with the two same bolts. I plan on making another larger one and a seperate follower rest. To find the pics, go to the photos and click on 6" Lathes. Then click the sub album AA model 109 lathes then click Rebels Metal Shop folder. Thanks and God Bless. Bill C. Portsmouth,Ohio ------- Date: Sun, 18 May 2003 22:58:20 EDT From: n8as1x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: roller steady rest? been using a 12x36 for rebarreling & set backs since 1970..., there are still bench rest smiths working between centers ., so i personally dont feel handicapped.....roy dunlap once stated that every non concentric chamber he had examined was done thru the hdstck....i am sure techniques are greatly improved in the 50 yrs since that statement ...that said.... been there, if marring is the concern,dont do it ! ...bearings burnish the steel, remove the blacking & require more polishing than brass arms, wood doesent burnish , but removes finish......when necessary to protect, turn up a large ( so u can take trueinig cuts on future jobs,) collar, bored to taper & drive on w/ a piece of paper between barrel/collar , or use a SPLIT collar ,bored to fit ......u can use a shoulder on collar to bear against stdy , helping hold barrel against the laced dog/faceplate if desired ,,,,,, ball bearing arms are gathering dust ..think used once the last 30 yrs.....if u need guidance on chambering hints , chamber /center reamer making ,hdspc ga. fabbing, bolt handle making /welding , floor plate hinging , reloading die fabbing etc.,let me know,..... been more interested in machine tools than smithing , the last 25 yrs , but be glad to help......i realize there is info out now , not near the dearth of info & tightly held trade secrets ,that existed 50 + yrs ago when i was stumbling along the path.... best wishes docn8as ------- Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 06:10:18 -0000 From: "jrw064" Subject: Re: roller steady rest? Thanks to everyone on my steady rest useage question. I really do not feel at a disadvantage with the steady, ie doing work between centers; just always looking for ways to improve technique or tooling. Some very well respective benchrest types do work between centers; just as there are several benchrest gunsmiths that chamber thru the headstock and use a spyder. I think that the collar is something to think about and try. I appreciate everyone's kind replies. Regards, Rick W. ------- Date: Sat, 24 May 2003 15:28:06 -0000 From: "rpm2290028" Subject: Re: roller steady rest? Dear Rick W, I've been away for a few days, so could not reply at once. I have the problem of turning 1" plexiglas rod on my 12x36 Atlas/ Craftsman. I have to be very accurate( ie no more than 0.0005" TIR) in centering this, so I had to investigate several possibilities. Several machinists mentioned that with a steady with small rollers attached to the fingers, and cutting close to the steady, there's a good chance of getting chips in between the workpiece and the rollers, and getting them forced under pressure into the work. I had to develop a technique where I purchased an ordinary 1/2" thick steel sealed bearing, bigger than the OD of the piece, in my case 1.250", then used a similar OD piece covered in 220 wet and dry rotating on the lathe to accurately sand down the brass fingers of the steady to fit this exact OD. I then made a brass mandrel to fit in a headstock collett,( you could use a four jaw for this, of course), exactly to the ID of the bearing, and used this set-up to centre the bearing on the lathe axis, with the steady next to the headstock, then tighten the steady rest fingers around it. This eliminated all the guess work and 'feel' problems that I normally have adjusting a steady. All that was required next was a delrin spacer that fit the shaft OD and the bearing ID, all a tight press fit, and a TIR of less than five 'tenths'. This could accomodate any size barrel, up to ,I guess, about 1.5 ", because you're then limited by the maximum the steady can take. This sounds complicated, but cost almost nothing except for the bearing for $5, and was relatively easy to do. If your lathe is cutting a slight taper because of wear, (like mine), this doesn't matter, since all the parts are still concentric. The sealed bearing has no trouble with the chips, of course, and there is no place for chips to get between the work and the bearing, which rotates with the workpiece anyway. Hope this was of some help. Richard in Los Angeles. ------- Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 17:21:31 -0400 (EDT) From: x xx Subject: Re: Re: For Sale 6" Craftsman Yes, Lynn. Everything you say is true. The native steadies for the Atlas lathes do indeed constrain the fingers from pivoting on the clamp bolts by having shoulders in the basic casting between which the fingers slide. Certain steadies snazzier than the Atlases (what isn't?) have roller bearings on the ends. Atlases are just plain. You'll have seen me repond to "steady posts" once or twice before, essentially always saying "just jimmy one up" because unless you are doing production work (on an Atlas? Yah, sure!) it's pretty much a one shot disposable affair. A recent posting with a picture, I didn't really like because it has in my opinion the very problem of not being able to control the pivoting of the fingers. Since I like fabricating stuff like this from scrap aluminum plate, I'd just clamp fingers to the face of the plate positioned to suit the work, using 2" "C" clamps, then take the rig off the machine, lay it on the bench, drill bolt 'oles, two to a finger, bolt down and set it back on the ways. Some people, when they are stuck for a one-shot steady just jimmy one from a bit of twobefour. Warms an old woodbutcher's heart! Sam ------- Date: Tue, 26 Aug 2003 20:08:15 EDT From: n8as1x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Re: For Sale 6" Craftsman production ? during ww2 atlas' ran 3 shifts a day for 5 or so years ,...thats what the turrets & production x/slides w/ back cut offs were for ......cheap parts kept them functional ....i made up some fingers w/ small ball bearings on the end ,thinking i could protect the finish when setting back barrels & recrowning ...HA it burnished the steel & made the repolishing much more difficult, the burnished spots wanting to show thru the blueing ......back to the brass , better than the wood ones i tried ....am in 100% agreement w/ the rest of ur post best wishes docn8as ------- Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 01:20:10 EDT From: catboat15x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Digest Number 1603 In a message 8/27/2003, atlas_craftsmanx~xxyahoogroups.com writes: > Some people, when they are stuck for a one-shot steady just jimmy > one from a bit of twobefour. Warms an old woodbutcher's heart! For facing off the ends of the 4 inch copper tube for my boiler shell, I did the wood thing. Bandsawed a circle to fit inside the tube so I could chuck it up without crushing, made a L shaped stand of plywood clamped the L to the bed and cut a hole in the upright with a tool held in the four jaw chuck to fit the OD of the boiler tube. Moved the wood stand down the bed, re-clamped close to the end of the tube, Put in the anti- crush disk, greased up the far end of the tube where it ran through the hole in the L. Worked fine to true up and finish to length of the boiler shell. John LBSC Virginia LBSC Tich ------- Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 14:29:52 -0000 From: "wheelerfireops2003" Subject: Need help to identify Atlas Lathe I have a 10" Atlas lathe with no data plate, I recently sheared a bevel gear in the leadscrew drive, can't order one from Clausen because I don't know which model it is. They said if it had a 3/4" leadscrew it would be an "F" model, but this one has a 5/8" or .624 leadscrew, I'm having a hard time finding the casting #'s to help them identify it. Can anybody lead me in the right direction, I'd like to rebuild the leadscrew change box. Jim ------- Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 12:20:55 -0500 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Need help to identify Atlas Lathe Does it have power crossfeed? Does the leadscrew have a keyway slot the entire length? If so, that should be the 10-F model. If it does not have the power crossfeed, only carriage feed, that should be the 10-D model. There were apparently some "bastard" machines made with a mixture of these features, which makes it a bit harder to figure out exactly which parts will fit. Which gear is it that is damaged? Jon ------- Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 15:53:03 -0500 From: "walucy" Subject: for Jon Elson-lead screw bevel gears The bevel gears are the same for the 5/8" o.d. screw as they are for the 3/4" screw. On the 3/4" the area of the shaft where the bevel gears are has been reduced to 5/8". If you have or can get an "F" series parts list, the p/ns for it will fit the 5/8" shaft. I had the same problem on my 10" 054D. I got new ones from Clausing. "JO" at causing set me straight on it. Good luck with your project. walucy ------- Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 08:41:59 -0000 From: "Robert Weersing" Subject: Re: Need help to identify Atlas Lathe Hello Jim You have a "D" model lathe or earlier because of the 5/8" leadscrew. If you are talking about one of the gears in the reverse gear case they used the same gears and case in the 9",early 10" ,or the later model 10" D or F. I have a "D" and "F" model and both use the same gears and gear case. The gear on the left side of the gearbox is part #9-48B. The gear on the right side of the gearbox is part #9-49A. The gear on the top of the gearcase is part #9-47. Hope that helps Bob ------- Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 23:24:50 -0500 From: "jerdal" Subject: Re: Re: New here: Really need a carrage assembly. Well, patient or not, here are some ideas Lost creek Machine I don't have the URL handy, but google can find them. I am a satified customer of theirs. Meridian machinery www.mermac.com Good person Sobel machinery (advertiser in Home Shop Machinist magazine) Would be great, if he understood packing. Good person anyway. check ad for phone number (no website) Bethel Machinery (advertiser Home shop machinist magazine....in the want ads) check ad for phone number, no website. Any of these may be parting out a machine. I bought Logan parts from meridian (and lost creek) , but Meridian does more with Atlas than Logan. Jerrold ------- Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 00:22:09 -0500 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Compatibility of 12" Craftsman "Commercial"? Wally Blackburn wrote: >I will be looking at a 12" Craftsman "Commercial" lathe this >weekend. Depending upon condition, price, etc. it may be parted >out. Can anyone give me an idea of the compatibility between this >beast and a "typical" 12" Atlas/Craftsman? If this is actually a Clausing-line lathe sold under the Atlas label, about the only interchangable parts might be a dead center. If it is close to 1000 Lbs in weight, it is a Clausing. if it is about 250 Lbs, it is an Atlas. The most obvious difference is the Atlas has flat ways, the Clausing has the standard inverted Vee ways. Jon ------- Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 17:06:22 -0500 From: Art Eckstein Subject: Steady Rest Hi All: Just a word to the wise as Murphy BIT me today. I was turning some rather large stock using the chuck and the steady rest. As usual, there was some chatter (read vibration) of the setup and not paying REAL close attention, the hinge pin on the steady vibrated OUT! This of course allowed the stock to ride up on the tool, raising the back side of the top portion of the steady rest REAL QUICK. Before I realized what had happened, the front "fork" of the steady top piece broke:{( The steady is usable as is (if I put the two pieces of the broken fork under the clamp bolt; until I get around to fixing permenately); but you may want to check your rests to see if the pin is loose. If it is, I recommend replacing with a bolt or something suitable so it won't happen to you! Bubba ------- Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2003 18:47:00 -0500 From: Ronald Thibault Subject: Re: Steady Rest I've had good results using PC-7 epoxy to reattach parts like that, it has a little flexibility when set. I've repaired the saddle traverse gear case (reinforced with a brass strip), and one of the belt cover hinge pieces, among others. ------- Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 21:31:12 -0600 From: "Richard Meredith" Subject: Re: Key for 6" Atlas 3-jaw chuck >>> I have just taken my Atlas 6" out of storage and find that I have misplaced the 3-jaw chuck key. Can anyone give me a source for a replacement? Thanks in advance. <<< Enco sells both standard and self ejecting keys in 8 sizes from 15/64" square thru 1/2" square. The std. keys are less than $5, and the self ejecting ones are in the $15-$18 range. They are on page 158 in their 2003 catalog. I just had to buy one myself last week. ------- Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 20:45:56 EST From: catboat15x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Digest Number 1702 On my Atlas three jaw chuck a 1/4 inch socket drive wrench just fits. After I found this out I use one of Sears 1/4 inch rachets as a chuck wrench. I like it better than the T handle wrench that came with the chuck. John in the high desert of California ------- Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 15:38:07 -0000 From: "steve1232us" Subject: Globe model 51-50 Milling or Tool Post Grndet what is it. Can Anyone Help Me I purchased a 10F Atlas lathe and with it was a Unit that sits on the bed of the Lathe and appears to be some type of millimg attachment and it is Marked Globe Products, MFG CO. Los Angeles Model 50-51. It has a 4 1/2" Vertical movement. Weight is 46 pounds without any motor. The spindle has a 5/8" opening it looks like a atlas milling attachment but instead of a vise it has a spindle like a tool post grinder. Thank You Steve ------- Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2003 18:34:01 -0000 From: "speedphoto300" Subject: Re: Globe model 51-50 Milling or Tool Post Grndet what is it. Good golly!, a real Globe milling attachment. This was driven off of the lathe spindle by a belt, there was a T-slotted table that replaced the cross slide. Had a better travel than the usual milling attachment. Sounds like the table and drive pulley are either missing or you haven't recognized them. Joe ------- Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 19:57:03 -0000 From: "tomin130" Subject: Re: Atlas 10-F timken headstock bearings Here are the numbers. 16150: Big Cone 16284B: Big Cup 14125A: Small Cone 14276B: Small Cup Any good bearing supply place should be able to get these for you, at a fraction of what they would cost ordered from Clausing. Tom ------- Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2003 14:33:06 -0700 From: "njb" Subject: Re: Re: Atlas 10-F timken headstock bearings > Are bearing/cup numbers same for both 10 and 12(inch lathes) ? I just happen to be in the middle of rebuilding my 12" (101.28990). I have 16150: Big Cone 16284B: Big Cup 14125A: Small Cone 14276B: Small Cup which match the numbers Tom posted. Nick Jon Elson's Note: The spindles are the same part. ------- Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2003 20:42:38 -0600 From: "Richard Meredith" Subject: Re: Re: Atlas 10-F timken headstock bearings Before you buy bearings, you might want to look into tolerance classes. Tapered roller bearings with the same part numbers are often made to several tolerance classes for different applications. In Timken bearings, the smaller the tolerance class number, the more precision the bearing, and the higher the cost. Automotive bearings are intended to run loose at speeds of around 1500 or less. You want spindle bearings to run tight (practically no end play) at these speeds, or higher. Spindle bearings are usually class 3 or better (sometimes much better). The tolerance class controls how closely the rollers are matched to each other, and how close the inner and outer race tapers are matched to the rollers. The tighter the bearing is run, the more important this becomes. A bearing set that costs $10 or $15 for an automotive application, may cost 4 or 5 times that much (or more) in a tolerance class for machine spindle applications. Foreign made bearings, or bearings made in the US by off shore companies use an ISO scheme for bearing tolerances, and must be cross referenced to the American Standard system used by Timken. If you buy your bearings from a reputable bearing supply house, they should be able to help you out with the correct selection. ------- Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 00:45:10 EST From: catboat15x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Cross feed speed > I just purchased an Atlas 12" model 3996 and > the slowest cross feed on the Atlas is much faster [than x-brand]. Have you set the gear box or the change gears for the finest cut on the chart? The cross feed takes its speed from the lead screw so if the lead screw is going slow the cross feed does too. I have no problem with the speed of the cross feed when I set my change gears up for the slowest feed I can get, using my loose gear change gears. John Meacham In the high desert of California 12 X 48 Craftsman lathe ------- Date: Mon, 15 Dec 2003 22:34:08 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Re: New member question [Cross feed speed] >Thanks for the response. You are correct, .0042 is not too fast. >That is the change gear selection I am using, but the cross feed is >moving faster than that. I am using E - 10 on the change gear selection. >Is there another way to set up the gears? The gears under the end >gear cover match (by tooth count) what is shown in the parts catalogue. The gearing in the apron of the Atlas lathe is supposed to adjust for the difference in leadscrew pitch. The carriage feed screw is 8 TPI, the crossfeed is 10 TPI. You are supposed to get the same feed rate with either selection. Note that there is a 2:1 gear change implemented in the gear train by dropping the gear bracket and sliding an idler gear in or out. This is normally only used "in" for the very coarsest threads, but if you leave it "in", which means closest to the headstock, it makes all feeds twice what the gearbox shows. Jon ------- Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 09:45:08 EST From: Sagebush9x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Cross Feed (Was Re: New member question) Thanks Anthony-I've had the lathe for 15 yr., & I've had the apron apart 2 or 3 times, for cleaning & a broken "gearbox". If you saw my conver- sation w/Jon, I had the impression the cross feed was faster, but confirmed it's not...I agree the apron isn't the best design -- I looked at it when I had it off & did some thinking about how to make the long. feed drive off the bevel gears like a "real" lathe. Had several ideas, including a chain drive from the cross feed shaft to the apron handwheel -- but this being my only lathe, I didn't want to cripple it to improve it. I still would like slower feeds for fine work, but I hate to mess w/different gears in the train. Ron in CO. ------- Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 10:50:08 EST From: catboat15x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Improving auto cross feed. > Had several ideas, including a chain drive from the cross feed > shaft to the apron handwheel- I did something like that on my old 6 inch Atlas (Bought new when Atlas had their going out of business sale, but sold in a weak moment) I was adding larger dials on the cross feed and compound when the idea struck. I made another dial and put it on the right hand end of the lead screw with divisions and a larger dial on the cross feed. But on both dials I added a drum section. I put a small pulley on my bench that could be placed in different positions along the length of the bench. Then when I wanted to part or face without cranking I simply wrapped a cord around the drum on the cross feed, fed the cord through the pulley and wrapped a few turns around the drum on the lead screw. Clamped the saddle in position and let-er-rip. Worked pretty good as long as the cut was not interrupted like parting non-round stock. Which reminds me; have to make a set of enlarged dials on my present 12 inch. Next best thing to an DRO. and the dial on the lead screw is pretty handy to measure things. John Meacham In the high desert of California ------- Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2003 22:34:20 EST From: LouD31M066x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Gear change Short answer is you don't need change gears or for that matter quick change IF you are willing to settle for a lathe. However if you want to make threaded objects or make controlled smooth cuts, you need some way to move the saddle in some way proportional to speed of spindle. This done by means of the gear train of the change gears, or the quick change box, connecting the speed of the spindle in some selected ratio to the lead screw. The saddle is connected or disconnected to the lead screw by means of the half nuts. When this was first devised about two centuries ago it was a remarkable advancement and may be fairly said to be a spark that ignited the Industrial Revolution. Some time ago I needed a piece of Bronze turned, drilled, bored, faced and a 7/8" x 14tpi thread turned on outside. Without the ability to thread I would have had to spend about $300 to replace something needing a part I made in about an hour using some scrap material. Louis ------- Date: Thu, 18 Dec 2003 19:04:21 -0000 From: "jdmichael2001" Subject: Re: Gear change Henry Maudsley is credited with the critical early developments in machine tools on which the subsequent Industrial Revolution was based. The moving saddle and the master screw (leadscrew) on lathes were his ideas. There's a short article at http://www.lindsaybks.com/arch/maud/ and many books on machining practices will have some history. Without him, this might be a different world today, or as they say, "If it wasn't for Thomas Edison, we'd all be watching TV by candle light." Jan ------- Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 12:06:34 -0800 From: "Spurrs" Subject: Re: Where to buy lead screw bearing? Try making one! A flat plate with a bored bar welded to it. Take care though, breaking leadscrew bearing casting is a bit of a safety valve in case the carriage is run into the headstock. The Zamak casting shears, preventing worse damage. Anything you make should have plenty of scope to shear away if you have a little accident. I intend replacing the very solid replacement on my Atlas with something capable of sacrifice and easy repair by replacing a shear pin or even by making a sleeve that is held in place by a spring detent until overloaded. Nigel Spurr ------- Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2004 08:05:59 -0600 From: xlch58x~xxswbell.net Subject: Re: Where to buy lead screw bearing? If you are going to have a sacrificial part, a fifty cent shear pin is probably a better choice than an $83 casting....... Charles ------- Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 02:57:31 -0000 From: "carbure2003" Subject: Re: Broke my tool post! >>Well, the post is 1" in dia, the vertical slot is 1 and 13/16" high and 7/16" wide, the ring that the rocker sits on is 1.75" in dia, the overall height above the top slide T-slot is 2.5". The top slide is original, the T-slot dimensions are 1" wide at the bottom, 5/8" wide at the 'neck', and has a 5/8" slot in it (I hope that description is clear). Thanks in advance << I checked my lantern tool post on my Atlas 12 lathe and compared it to my South Bend lantern tool post. The South Bend tool post is not compatible with the Atlas compound rest. Did you ever think about manufacturing your own lantern post? not too difficult, as long as you can find some tool steel (the lanthern tool post is hardened steel. Personally, I would go 100 mph with a quick change. I bought one 10 years ago. I used the lantern tool post about once every 2 years or so for set up jobs that were difficult with the quick change. Guy Cadrin Gatineau, QC Canada ------- Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 01:35:02 -0000 From: "cc7260" Subject: Re: Broke my tool post! "Dr Robert Harms" wrote: > Unless you are really into being a traditionalist why not sieze the > opportunity and buy a quick change from Enco (Phase II) for 89.00 I will definitely go the quick change route eventually, but I want the original style tool post so I can use all of the tooling that I got with this real nice lathe. Also, she who must be obeyed feels I've already spent enough on this 'toy' (her words).... After I fix a few things around the house and make a few things that we can use around the house it'll be easier for me to justify the QC toolpost. Can anyone else relate to that? Corm ------- Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2004 23:34:37 -0600 From: "jerdal" Subject: Re: Newbie question 109 and 101 steadies interchange? > have a 109 that i am in need of a steady for. found one for the 101, > will it work? also want a 3" 3 jaw chuck, and a live center. had the > lathe for 6 months and enjoy it but wish i had more tooling as you > can tell. thanks in advance, Steve in illinois I don't know if they interchange, doubt it. I made a follow rest for a 109 with a drill press, files and a hacksaw years ago. (got rid of all the chatter). I bet you could do a steady with no more tooling than that. All it has to do is fit on the bed and have a big hole with three bolts that close at the spindle centerline. Jerrold ------- Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 10:49:05 -0500 (EST) From: x xx Subject: Re: Newbie question 109 and 101 steadies interchange? You can even make a temporary one from wood if you are desperate. Sam ------- Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2004 03:29:37 -0000 From: "joecutting2003" Subject: Need instruction manual for Craftsman lathe 101.07301 Does anyone know where I can obtain a copy of the instruction manual for the Craftsman (6x18 inch) lathe 101.07301? I think it is basically the same as the Atlas 618. I will be happy to pay the costs associated with getting a copy. Joe Cutting ------- Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 20:25:27 -0800 From: "Steve B." Subject: Re: Need instruction manual for Craftsman lathe 101.07301 http://www.metalworking.com/DropBox/_2000_retired_files/ac6man.pdf PDF file of the manual you are looking for. SB ------- NOTE TO FILE: This could be the quickest way to get a copy of any manual, etc. -- download a PDF file from the web. Such a file will likely be good enough to start with as you clean the new addition to your workshop. Unfortunately some of the PDF files out there are difficult to read, particularly small print as commonly found in part numbers or dimensions. Many details can be blurry in PDF files that were originally scanned at low resolution. Sometimes you can read the number okay on a computer screen but it is too fuzzy to read when printed. If you have a photo manipulation program that can read PDF files, you may be able to import the file and clean it up, sharpen the text, and then print it. But if the company still exists and still sells manuals, please respect their copyright and buy one from them. Treating them right is only fair considering how many of them still help us out with problems. Clausing/ Atlas has been very supportive of us users of long-obsolete equipment. ------- Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 15:48:05 -0000 From: "danielt5burnit" Subject: Gears Hey Group! Has anybody ever check with Boston Gear to see of they have gears for the 109? And keyed bushings for the gears? ------- NOTE TO FILE: Remember, the 109 is not an Atlas but uses the same change gears as a Sears Craftsman 101 which IS a copy of the Atlas 618. Other 109 parts are different from the 101/618 models. ------- Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 10:58:07 -0500 From: " Rigrac" Subject: Re: Gears I know they have keyed bushings and have purchased gearing that I had to adapt (rebore and key) for my Atlas MFC Mill from them. You would have to have all the gear particulars such as DP, Pressure Angle, # of Teeth etc and then see if they have gears matching those specs. Can't order from them per say for an Atlas Lathe. Go to local outlet (Bearing Supply place is where I would start) and see if you can buy, beg, borrow or steal a catalogue from them. Ron ------- Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 22:17:40 -0600 From: "jerdal" Subject: Re: Gears The 109 gears are 24 dp. I would guess they are almost surely 14 1/2 deg pa, although I have not measured the pa. [NOTE TO FILE: 14 1/2 is correct.] They are 0.375 thick (varying between sizes a bit down to 0.350) and have a 0.500 hole. The odd thing about them is that they have double keyways, as do the stock bushings. There isn't any reason for that, a single keyway would have been fine. Sears just wanted you back for parts. Jerrold ------- Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2004 From: "S or J" Subject: Dating an Atlas Hi gang, Hope this can help those members whose most important question on originally joining this group was "When was my Atlas-made lathe/mill/shaper manufactured?" I'll tell you how to date it after some important background information. Unfortunately this question has never been treated with the respect it deserves. Many fuddy-duddies already here seem to think cleaning and repairing and aligning and other boring stuff are more important. Phooey. They probably waste their spare time actually using the darn things instead of just bragging about their toys. The manufacturing dates for Atlas machines cannot be found within the records of Clausing. When Atlas bought Clausing and adopted the more prestigious Clausing name, this critical date-data was mislaid. Some believe the old records were accidentally lost forever. Others claim the paperwork fell victim to a bungled early attempt at recycling. A very few others believe a hand-written master copy (no photocopiers back then) was retained by one of their accounting staff who could not bear to see any paper with numbers disappear. Well I finally tracked him down. It is rumored that he was also working on a numerical formula to prove that certain aerospace stock figures in the Wall Street Journal were being manipulated to pass on coded messages to any Roswell alien survivors. Now that is just plain silly. Everyone knows the entire crew was put into a very large GE M33-6B freezer in the Officers' Club at Area 51. They were about to be put into the Canteen's freezer, but common sense prevailed. Obviously they had been pilots, and everyone knows that only Officers should be pilots, so ... and there they have remained undisturbed -- well, except for that unfortunate incident during a BBQ when they ran out of steaks and sent a new cook to find some more. But that's a whole other story. Whoops, just realized it's April 1st. Gotta do something else right now. Be back soon. "White rabbit, white rabbit, white rabbit." Steve -- in Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada (Atlas 618 owner, who doesn't particularly care when it was made so long as it works now. Also thinks single machinists should be dating people, not machines ;-) ------- Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 22:52:25 -0400 From: "rigrac" Subject: Re: Milling Machine Parts Needed Can't tell you where to get Motor Base ( EBAY?) but Belt Guard Covers being reproduced by a fellow by the name of Dan Hill. His web site is Hillsgun.com. I have purchased one of his Belt Covers and am waiting on another and they are truely Quality pieces. BTW --- Have you inquired also to: atlasshaperandmillingmachineusersgroupx~xxyahoo.com Ron ------- Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 21:02:12 -0000 From: "vulcom1" Subject: Atlas th54 mitre gear I have gone way back in the posts and have not seen any mention of this gear. I have the gear with the teeth in good shape but the key that is part of it that ingages the screw is worn almost out. I took it apart to clean and also found the gear that engages the rack had two missing teeth. I made a new one out of brass to try but this bevel gear will be a major problem to make. Has anybody repaired one of these. John ------- Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 16:32:49 -0500 From: "Richard Valentine" Subject: Re: Atlas th54 mitre gear If the gear is brass -have it built up with brass welding rod and file it out carefully. I've done this numerous times. Make a gage template from one of the undamaged gears to reference from -- good luck. Richard ------- Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 17:47:26 EDT From: LouD31M066x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Atlas th54 mitre gear Just for a reality check give Clausing Atlas a call and ask if they have the part and price. (574) 533-0371 Central Time. If they have and if price is within reason...problem solved. Long Distance charges are not that much anymore. If you make the call have make, model and serial numbers ready. If you do not already have the Owners Manual (an illustrated breakdown of part groups keyed to part number and name, current Price List and Catalog, spend about $5 and get them at same time. They have ALWAYS treated me right. Louis ------- Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 02:14:27 -0000 From: "vulcom1" Subject: Re: Atlas th54 mitre gear --I did give them a call and got a price $103.38 for the gear. I believe it is made out of Zamak or something like that and the teeth are okay it is the key that is shot. This is the key that stays engaged with the carriage rod. I thought I would try here since somebody has redone a split nut. The cost of that is 29.79 so you can see the differance. I made another gear by hand that is 1" in diameter out of brass which they want 25.37 for. In total for 3 gears in my money is $242.97 and to me that is high. John ------- Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2004 22:47:53 EDT From: LouD31M066x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Re: Atlas th54 mitre gear Now we know price we must search for an alternative. Can you hog out the remains of the key and then broach a keyway to install some keystock (maybe a piece of brass) as a replacement and epoxy in place. Perhaps set a watch on ebay, ask group, maybe someone has had the problem and found an alternative source of mitre gear or one that can be adapted? Lets hear from those who have been there and done that. Louis ------- Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 15:02:54 -0000 From: "vulcom1" Subject: Re: Atlas th54 mitre gear Louis, I am going to try your method of fitting a piece of brass. I will put a some tangs on the brass strip and drill holes so it is inserted and use JB on it. It is not that I am cheap about this but I bought it 15 yrs. ago and the 3 parts are worth over half as much as I paid for it. I use it for a hobby for myself with my models. Thanks for the reply. John ------- Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 11:35:53 EDT From: Sagebush9x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Atlas th54 mitre gear I would think, haven't tried it, that you could drill a hole through the side of the gear at the key position, & press in a pin to serve as a key. Brass would serve OK, seems to me, & be at least as strong as the Zamak original key. I haven't had mine apart in a long time, but by memory, this would seem to be an OK fix... Ron in CO ------- Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 12:52:20 EDT From: LouD31M066x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Re: Atlas th54 mitre gear Boston Gear Catalog has Mitre Gears...in steel, hardened steel and cast iron. I am quite certain there are other gear sources. IF you can identify the gear you need by the standard nomenclature. Brass or some plastics seem more compatable with a Zamak gear train.....although some have reported no problem with steel/iron. It would be nice if gears were easier to come by, but, it would be less of a challange if life had no problems. Louis ------- Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 17:36:44 -0000 From: "vulcom1" Subject: Re: Atlas th54 mitre gear Thanks to everybody for the answers. I made a brass piece 1.5" long with 3 square projections to go into the gear. I slotted the inside about 1/16 and smeared it with JB. After I inserted it I squeezed it with pliers from both ends then centre punched the brass tangs protruding to the outside. I will let it sit for a day then clean it up and let everybody know how it works. I have to put the rest together as I took a lot apart to clean and also redo the bench mount. I had .003 drop in the ways in the centre. The bench is 3/4 ply top but now I have added 3 layers of hardboard glued and nailed to make it 3" and remounted the bed. Now it has .001 drop 6" from the tailstock end after I shimmed the inside of the legs. The rest is flat measured with a 4' machinist straight edge for checking heads. I think I can live with this adjustment since I never get out that far. Thanks for the replies, John ------- Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2004 01:58:52 -0000 From: "vulcom1" Subject: Ref: 32822 Gears I have got it together after making the one carriage to rack gear (brass) and also putting a key in the bevel gear. Now I have used it for a day and everything seems to be very smooth and a lot of the backlash is gone. Thanks guys. John ------- Date: Sat, 24 Apr 2004 22:10:57 -0000 From: "don" Subject: New to group/Pre 1939 12"x54"bed craftsman observations/questions Hello, I have been using this lathe at work almost 10 years now, It belongs to a fellow worker. I cannot find a model or serial# anywhere. Has a Craftsmen badge, is Blue, Babbit spindle bearings, Flat bed, 5/8" leadscrew, Gears are .375 wide all including spindle drive to leadscrew reverse lever gears-24T-fwd/20T-rev/32T-Stud. I have replaced these gears with good ones, But added a 16/32T to the stud. Threading/Spindle feed chart has no mention of 16/32 gear. (10-101-16A) The only information the owner has is a 1939 parts copy, and 1973 clausing parts list. The 1939 list does show a 9-101-16A. Is it just that the 16T gear will give finer carriage feed? Was this only equipped with a 32T stud gear? Or should we use the 32T for thread cutting only? Where on the base of the lathe would the Model/Serial # be? Thanks to all in advance. Don - My home lathe is 8-YWB 36" bed 8" Junior South Bend ------- Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2004 07:57:04 -0000 From: "Robert Weersing" Subject: Re: New to group/Pre 1939 12"x54"bed craftsman observations/questions On the older Atlas lathes the serial number was on the right side of the bed on the front way. I would assume the craftsman lathes were the same. The newer lathes used a brass plate on the right hand end of the bed. The Chraftsman lathes used 16/32gear and a foward/reverse tumbler. Atlas lathes used the 16/32 gear and a forward/reverse gearbox mounted on the front way next to the headstock. I have a copy of the Atlas 10 chart and a craftsman chart and both have a column labeled "compound tumbler gear". The REAL early 10" and 9" lathes used a 96 tooth gear and didn't use the 16/32 compound tumbler gear. If you have a 96 tooth gear then you have a very early lathe. The early lathes used a 9-25 bracket which only had three places to stack gears and the later lathes used a 10-25 bracket with four places to stack gears. hope that helps Bob 1042 Atlas D lathe 10x42 Atlas F lathe 618 Atlas lathe US Burke millrite BIG hammer ------- Date: Wed, 12 May 2004 11:40:48 -0000 From: "n5fee" Subject: Re: 618 Parts [atlas618lathe group] > My carrier does not travel nicely up and down the lathe bed. I > removed the carrier rack from the bed to find it broken right in > half and somewhat worn. Anyone know where I can get this as well > as the ball crank handle for the carrier? Chris Tolhurst I just fininshed rebuilding two 618's and while doing so I posted the current price list from Clausing for all of the parts they stock in the files section. I also posted parts lists for the steady rest, follower and mica undercutter in the files section as well. Like all of the other posts suggest the parts are expensive. If you still have the hand crank body, you might consider rebuilding it yourself. I have several small ball crank handles that had the wheel with just the hand crank missing. I tapped the holes where the crank went for 1/4-20 tpi and used a 1/4 bolt running inside an old engine valve guide with 1/4 inch bore. If you dress up the bolt and bronze valve guide a bit these work very well. A little oil makes them work better than the original handle since your hand does not have to slip on the handle as it turns. A trip to your local engine rebuild shop will get you a large handful of different size used valve guides for free. They throw these away by the buckets full. You might consider swapping the two broken pieces of your rack gear left to right and then braze them together in the middle. This would give you good teeth in the area of most use. Dallas Shell Atlas 618 Craftsman 101.214 Southbend 9B ------- Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 10:42:23 -0500 From: xlch58x~xxswbell.net Subject: Re: Re: 12-INCH CRAFTSMAN METAL LATHE [ABOUT THE LARGE ATLAS MANUAL, STILL AVAILABLE FROM CLAUSING] Jon Elson wrote: > No, it actually WAS machine specific. What they did was swap out a dozen or so pages for different machines. The differences picked up by those special pages were the general layout of the machine, belt-speed settings, threading charts for different size machines and for change- gear vs. QC gearbox. I had both a 10" and later a 12", and the books were definitely customized for each model. Jon < You know Jon, I am glad to hear you say that. My brother got two manuals when he inherited his 12" lathe. Same copyright information inside the cover, but slightly different color covers and flipping through it a handful of pictures are different. I took one of them, and he has the other. Now that I know they are specific to machine I will re-look at them to make sure he has the right one. As I recall one had pictures of a babbit head stock the other was a timken. He has a timken machine, so I told him to take that manual (mine is a timken as well, but I gave the manual to my neighbor with the babbit headstock). I will re look to see if there are other more important considerations now. Charles ------- Date: Sat, 29 May 2004 17:00:38 -0500 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Re: 12-INCH CRAFTSMAN METAL LATHE The major differences on the 10 and 12" lathes are actually quite few, over a 30+ year span. All early machines were Babbit, all later machines were Timken, but there was a period from about 1938 to 1945 when the Timken bearings were an option. The earliest machines were the D with no power crossfeed and a 5/8" leadscrew. The later machine, the F model, had a 3/4" leadscrew and power crossfeed. There was a quick-change gearbox option for the F model. Early 12" machines were essentially identical to the 10", but with a taller headstock and tailstock casting. The bed ways were 3/8" thick, vertically. Later 12" machines had a different headstock design, and the bed ways were 1/2" thick. Later 12" machines, and possibly 10" Craftsman models had an overtorque clutch on the leadscrew to prevent broken geartrain parts on a crash. There are also some differences in the countershaft setup. The underdrive models had 2 countershafts, and a pair of matched belts to drive the spindle. You didn't change the belt to different grooves on the headstock, but between the two countershafts. Bench models had the motor behind the headstock, and a countershaft that moved toward the rear to tighten the belts. That is the "H" for horizontal in the TH-42 model. Both 10 and 12" lathes came with short and long beds, generally 42 or 54" of total length, corresponding to 24 and 36" between centers. Some models were made with beds of different length. There were some even earlier models, the 9" and the model C, which are still mostly compatible with the later 10". Jon ------ Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 15:07:44 -0000 From: "joegourlay" Subject: Lead screw bearing casting In prepping for my lathe to arrive, I've been reading the manual. On page 24 it says that if the user allows the carriage to crash either into the head or tail stock, serious damage will be prevented by the intentionally weak lead screw bearing breaking. When they say "breaking", does this mean something like easily replaceable screws holding it in will fail, or does it mean that something will break that has to be bought off ebay (if one is even for sale)? Is this a part the lathe owner can make a few extra of using only the lathe? ------- Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 10:41:54 -0500 From: Charle B Vincent Subject: Re: Lead screw bearing casting This means a relatively expensive and hard to find part will break. I don't understand their design to tell you the truth. I replaced the pin that holds the drive gear to the leadscrew with one made from brass that had been necked down at the circumference of the leadscrew. This will cause this pin to shear in the event I go braindead momentarily and let my carriage collide. This pin is easily made up in the lathe, even with the leadscrew inoperable. Charles ------- Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 17:55:10 -0000 From: "sauer38h" Subject: Re: Lead screw bearing casting They're steady sellers for about $35 on eBay. At first I didn't take that business about the things being designed to break seriously. That's a pretty daffy way to do the job. However if you take one off and examine it you'll see that the flange - the part which bolts to the lathe - is very thin and fragile. And they obviously break. Almost every original finish Craftsman or Atlas lathe I've seen didn't quite match the color of the bearing - a sign that the bearing is a later replacement.It's a very simple part, but I've never tried making one. ------- Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 13:59:24 -0500 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Lead screw bearing casting Don't believe it! I ran the carriage into the tailstock on my 10" lathe, and had to replace the entire gear train. The bushing did NOT break. The idea is that the brass bushing is supposed to break, and the leadscrew just screws itself out of the gear that is driving it. First, it won't break when driving the carriage toward the tailstock. And, apparently, it can't be relied on in the other direction, either. Finally, 1960's vintage lathes had a overload clutch installed after the QC gearbox. Jon ------- Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 16:43:39 -0400 From: "mertbaker" Subject: Re: Re: Lead screw bearing casting I'd rather have a nice shear pin in the gear train, costing a bout 1 cent to replace, than a custom part for 35 bux, just my opinion. So it breaks once in a while under heavy cuts, so what? Mert ------- Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 20:56:38 -0500 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Re: Lead screw bearing casting Actually, a pin shearing during a coarse threading operation can be fairly catastrophic. A broken compound slide is not out of the question. So, you don't want to make it TOO weak. Jon ------- Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 18:20:12 -0500 From: "John D. Farr" Subject: Re: Re: Lead screw bearing casting Mine is a big block of aluminum. I mounted it with nylon screws. John ------- Date: Sun, 05 Sep 2004 22:13:03 -0500 From: Charle B Vincent Subject: Re: Re: Lead screw bearing casting joegourlay wrote: > Charles, could you give me the dimensions of that > pin, and what type of brass you used? Sorry, it was scrapbox engineering. It was on my neighbor's lathe and I used the first piece of brass in small diameter that came to hand. He didn't have a mike there or even a DTI, so it was centered in the four jaw by eye an turned down till it fit the bevel gear crosshole in hand. Once it was turned down to fit, I used the gear itself and a fine pick type scriber to mark the inner circumference of the gear. I then used a sharp v toolbit and a plunge cut to reduce the diameter by a little less than half at that point. Hasn't broken in use yet, but we haven't tried colliding with the headstock or tailstock yet either. Charles ------- Date: Mon, 6 Sep 2004 12:26:55 EDT From: Sagebush9x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Re: Lead screw bearing casting If the feed disengages for any reason during a threading cut, the cut gets a LOT heavier real quick. The tool has to munch thru the whole thread. If you're almost finished w/a big coarse thread, it could be enough to wreck something. When I'm threading in back gear, I run the belts real loose, I don't cam the lever over center, just ket it ride tight enough to keep things moving. I've used this in tough parting-off situations too, any undue condition will slip the belts & bring things to a gentle halt. Works for me- Ron in CO...(101.28990) ------- Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 13:31:25 -0500 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Re: Lead screw bearing casting mertbaker wrote: >Agreed. Who does coarse threading operations with a heavy enuf cut to >cause trouble? No, the depth of cut doesn't matter. When the leadscrew suddenly stops turning, the cutter will be in the middle of the thread. Even if you are only taking off .001" per pass, the cutter could be 1/8" deep in the thread. It could do serious damage, and at least break the cutter. Jon ------- Date: Mon, 06 Sep 2004 14:58:49 -0500 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Re: Lead screw bearing casting mertbaker wrote: >Agreed, again, but would a 1 or 2 thou cut stress the pin enuf to >shear it? Well, it shouldn't. But, sometimes weak shear pins will break for no reason other than a little fatigue, and always at the worst possible time. Jon ------- Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 15:01:57 -0000 From: "Barry" Subject: Atlas 3996 Does the Atlas 3996 have a carriage lock to hold the carriage stationary when facing? My carriage will move away from the work when facing and I wind up with a concave face on the work piece. I have looked and do not see any type of lock. Barry Sims ------- Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 12:32:06 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Atlas 3996 David S. wrote: >Is there a square head set screw on the top of l/h side of the >carriage/cross slide? If so that is the set screw that will hold the >carriage in place. That would be on the RIGHT hand side of the carriage on a 12" and many later 10" lathes. So, I think it would be on the right for the 3996. Both of my machines had it on the right. I think only the "D" model, with no power crossfeed, had it on the left. The additional power takeoff gearing for the power cross feed took over that space on the left, so they moved the lock to the right side. Jon ------- Date: Sun, 14 Nov 2004 20:43:37 -0000 From: "Barry" Subject: Re: Atlas 3996 There is an empty bolt hole on the right side of the cross slide. I guess it has been removed prior to my aquiring the lathe. I will try fabricating on that will work. Thanks for the info. This is a great site. ------- Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2004 17:50:08 -0000 From: "mtrsickleman47" Subject: Cheap steady rest ?? I have a 12" Atlas lathe and did not get a steady rest with it when I bought it. I have kept an eye on ebay for one but the prices are (in my opinion) outragous. The other day I was looking through my 2004 Grizzly catalog and noticed a "new" item in the wood lathe section. It is a steady rest for a flat bed wood lathe that has a standard height to center of 6" plus additional blocks to raise it if needed. All for $29.95. The 3 fingers have bearings that ride on the stock being turned. The fingers themselves, look a bit wimpy for metal work but it looks like the casting is beefy enough in the area where new slots could be milled and thick brass fingers could be installed. For those of you that have the 2004 Grizzly catalog and would want to look it's on page 91. I'd like to hear opinions on this. Seems to be a much cheaper option than forking over $175 on ebay. Thanks! ZB ------- Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2004 13:40:47 -0700 From: lynn.chidesterx~xxxtp.varian.com Subject: Re: Cheap steady rest ?? Another option I have considered is to use one of the 7X10/14 minilathe steady rests or follower rests. While the steady may be a bit small for the Atlas 10" & 12" models, it should be more than adequate for the 6" models. Many of the other accessories for these lathes could also serve as Atlas lathe tooling. Yes, I realize this is not an "OEM, bolt on" solution, and there are some that have STRONG feelings about purchasing chinese made equipment. But, if one is willing to do a bit of work, these should work well (at a cost considerably LESS than the Ebay prices for the OEM parts). Lynn C. (in SLC, UT) ------- Date: Sun, 21 Nov 2004 04:42:43 -0000 From: "KDSpriggs" Subject: Re: Cheap steady rest ?? Here is a link to a picture of one that I made for my 12 inch Craftsman. This was one of my first projects. You can see that I used roller bearings on the end of the arms. There is not much that is really critical on a steady rest as everything is adjustable. http://www.khspriggs.com/images/600_MVC-885F.JPG ------- Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2004 12:28:23 -0500 From: Nick Hull Subject: Re: Bullnose [atlas618lathe group] >Help. Need to make or buy a No. 1 Morse taper Bullnose. I just turned a chunk of Al to a 45 deg bullnose on one side and a deep 60 deg center hole on the back. It fits over my live center, barely missing the stationary part and seems to work well. Held on only by the tailstock compression force. ------- Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 17:21:05 -0000 From: "azbruno" Subject: Re: Bullnose "fred myers" wrote: > I was thinking of that, then I thought about how I would drill the 60 > degree hole. Use a 60 degree reamer? You use a 60 degree center drill/countersink -- same thing used to start a hole. They come in various sizes, but sets with #1 through #5 are common and not expensive. Bruno ------- Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2004 17:23:59 -0500 From: Nick Hull Subject: Re: Bullnose That's what I did, except that I wanted a bigger hole to match the front of my live center so I used the biggest drill/countersink I had and used the compound to continue the taper with a small boring bar. No trouble, I used aluminum to make it EZ. ------- Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 20:46:52 -0600 From: "jerdal" Subject: Re: Re: New to the board - I have a 618 lathe and an Atlas 7" shaper > Sun, 19 Dec 2004 16:54:37 -0000 "Glenn" wrote: > >>>I didn't see any post on the Atlas/Craftsman shapers, anybody else > have one??? after about 4 hours of cleaning crud and surface rust > I was able get everything to work. Everything that is, except the ram > throw adjustment, I messed around with it but one of the gears in the > adjustment was cracked and just fell apart. Does anybody know where > I can find a replacement part??? Great Board, Glad to be a member, > Glenn G. (aka G2) <<< Your shaper can make one. Mine did. Make two, you'll need the other one pretty soon also. It took a while, but worked OK. I used a kludged indexer using another gear as the index standard. Ground a cutter to the small end shape. Cut one cut thru, then turned the setup slightly around the cone intersection point for the bevel, and cut down the side to open the rear portion on each side. One set of cuts left, one set right. Took about 5 min per tooth space, as I recall, and the down feed was tiny as the cut got deeper, a half thou per stroke (estimated) at the final bit. The total length of cut surface is huge at the last part of the cut on a toothspace. You don't want to break a cutter and have to re-make. If you have a mill, it can be done faster, of course, using a ground bit, or a gear cutter of proper size and number.. Jerrold ------- Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2005 08:35:26 -0600 From: Rex Burkheimer Subject: new steel change gears source I just ran across this guy. He's offering new steel change gears for about what used ones go for on ebay. http://stores.ebay.com/TEB-Enterprises_W0QQsspagenameZFAVQ3aFQ3aSLLRQQtZkm Rex Burkheimer Fort Worth ------- NOTE TO FILE: At date of above posting, listed gears were made of steel with a 3/4" center hole, with two keyways opposite one another. Most gears listed were for the 9-101 type models, but the site did offer to custom cut gears. ------- Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 13:15:15 -0500 From: Kelly Burns Subject: Re: inquiry about ball-screw >Hi to all of you guys. Does anyone know if anybody makes a ball-screw >nut to fit the crossfeed screw of a atlas-crftsman lathe? Manny There are a number of people making them out of UHMW plastic and Delrin. I used to be involved in Home-Built CNC machines. I made a nut to fit a 10 TPI Acme thread using a borrowed Tap. I believe the Tap was purchased for about $25 and a few people on the group shared it. I know the Taps are out there and you would be shocked at how well the nuts made from UHMW and Delrin work. They wear out a little quicker I'm sure, but they do work. A number of people made them from the Cheap White Cutting Board Material and reported lots of success. Mostly, we cut a lot of 1/4 20 Nuts for Threaded Rods (Poorman's leadscrew setup), but a few of us did purchase Acme threads so that we could make our machines work a little faster. Kelly ------- Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 06:36:02 -0500 From: Nick Hull Subject: Re: inquiry about ball-screw >you would be shocked at how well the nuts made from UHMW and Delrin work. >They wear out a little quicker I'm sure, but they do work. I have a gate opener that uses that type plastic on an acme screw to open & close the gate. It wore out in about 15 years of daily use. ------- Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2005 22:24:14 -0600 From: Rex Burkheimer Subject: re: Quick changes and books Bruce Koch wrote: >> Got a question here. I have an Atlas 10 F that I am in the process of cleaning and putting back together. I have seen a couple of quick change setups on Ebay, but they went for over $450.00 Just wondering if it is worth the price, or should I put the money into a bigger, better lathe? << It's been my observation that the difference between a change gear and a QC lathe is at least what a used QC costs. Restored 10" QC lathes go for $1200 to $1500, while the change-gear versions go for seldom top $800. If yours has a 54" bed it would move to the high end. But you need more than just a box - you need the banjo, a few other items, and different gear covers. With a QC, the single tear-drop cover is discarded for two separate covers, Upper & Lower, that are all but unavailable in my experience. I found one set for $175 but I'm not prepared to pay that yet. So I'm modifying a standard cover to fit. Looks promising. Also, expect to spend some time tuning a used QC. I think most of them have a chipped gear or two, and maybe need busings or? Budget $100 to get it squared away. So it's your call. If you enjoy restoring yours and it turns out well, you might be money ahead to sell it for top dollar and put that toward a higher-end model. Rex B ------- Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2005 10:24:57 -0800 From: "Bob May" Subject: Re: Quick changes and books The only reason that I'd buy a QC gearbox is for the ego value. In production work, such a box will make things go faster when you have to change speeds but for the typical home hobbyist, such a toy is just that, a toy to be proud of. Finally, I'd be sort of afraid of buying such a thing off of eBay as you aren't guaranteed to get all of the parts needed nor even get the right box for your lathe. Bob May http://nav.to/bobmay http://bobmay.astronomy.net ------- Date: Sun, 06 Feb 2005 13:38:44 -0500 From: "fred eisner" Subject: Re: Quick changes and books Hi all. I have to disagree with bob's analysis of the qc verse loose change gears. It is not a toy for a home hobbiest but rather a needed item. My reasons are as follows. With loose change gears you tend to use the same feed rate for all finishes. Because of the lazyness factor - you have to stop what you are doing and figure out what gears to put into the train for the speed you want. With a qc gear box you can quickly adjust the feed rate until you are getting a better finish. You can change from a fast rough cut to quickly bring down a dia and then change to a slower feed rate for a final finish. With loose change gears you will tend to do the whole job with one feed rate as for threading it is just plain easier. As for buying a qc box on ebay i tend to agree with him - you don't know if you are getting all the parts - i would buy one from a dealer even though you will pay a few bucks more - you will get all the parts and you can return it if it is wrong. just my 2 cents worth fred - a small dealer located in yonkers ny 914 720 5523 ------- Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2005 15:27:12 -0500 From: Charles Gallo Subject: Re: Quick changes and books Bob, You and I have totally different opinions of QC gearboxes. I wouldn't give mine up, but I do a lot of threading. Having to change gear trains between turning to size of the various parts, and then threading is a total PITA. I have little enough shop time as it is. Having had lathes both with, and without QC gearboxes, I'll NEVER go back, and in fact, my next lathe will have independent power feed and threading gearboxes. Then again, my next lathe WILL be a "brag" lathe. ------- Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2005 16:52:17 -0500 From: "mertbaker" Subject: Re: Quick changes and books I have to agree with Charles. Being able to change feed rates quickly and easily is a big factor when you are making one-off items. It is also a big factor if you have to do several operations on one piece in production work. Been to both movies. Mert ------- Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 23:49:03 EDT From: gto69ra4x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Countershaft bearings? 4/7/2005, jcmorrisonx~xxshaw.ca writes: >> There is a new and wonderful noise coming from the area around my 10F countershaft bearings. It sounds like a light crackle or pinging as the pulleys rotate. I tried adding grease and screwing the cups in a bit more, but it's still there. What sort of bearings are these (plain or roller)? Thoughts on repair/replacement and source for parts? John << They use Hyatt caged roller bearings. Probably a good idea to take them apart, clean in solvent, and inspect. Replace if required. GTO(John) ------- Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2005 17:11:20 -0000 From: "austinlathes" Subject: Atlas catalog covers [atlas_craftsman group] Those of you who don't have the rather fine Atlas catalogs with color fronts might like to look here: http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/page22.html and http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/page23.html Clicking on each picture (or the link beneath) will take you to a higher resolution copy that can be downloaded and printed. Catalog No. 26 (dated 1936-7) is especially interesting and has featured in the group before. It was painted by the eccentric and once-forgotten gentleman artist Arthur C. Radebaugh whose inspired work, from the mid 1930s to the mid 1950s, was once an important part of American advertising culture. His illustrations were commissioned by, amongst others, Coca-Cola, Dodge and Chrysler and he was also known for Motor, Fortune and Saturday Evening Post magazine covers and a weekly syndicated cartoon strip of the late 1950s "Closer Than We Think" - a humorous send-up of technology and invention. For more information about Radebaugh and his work see: http://www.palaceofculture.org/ My best wishes, Tony Griffiths ------- Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 22:21:43 EDT From: n8as1x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Gear Specifications??? In a message dated 5/4/2005, cbrumbelowx~xxcomcast.net writes: > Anyone know the tooth (teeth?) specifications for the change gears on > the various Atlas lathes? Thanks, Charles 10& 12 use 14 1/2 deg. pressure angle & 16 pitch 6 inchers use 14 1/2 deg. pressure angle & 24 pitch best wishes docn8as ------- Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 15:30:29 -0000 From: "drifter1951" Subject: Lathe dating accuracy? About 2 weeks ago I pulled the spindle out of my 10F and found the date 10/15/41 engraved on the front bearing run. Fine so my lathe was built in 1941 ... but today I pulled off the rear bearing dust cover and found 5/4/42 engraved in the bearing run. This means one of two things, my 10F was built in '41 and the rear bearing was replaced 7 months later (possible but unlikely) or, the dates engraved into the bearing runs are for the manufacture of the bearings, not the lathe. In the case of the latter it would mean my lathe was assembled sometime after 5/4/42. Months or possibly years later ... anyone have any insight into this? It would be interesting to compile a list of bearing dates with serial numbers to see what kind of timeline the serial numbers have in relation to the bearing dates. Drifter ------- Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 12:19:03 -0500 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Lathe dating accuracy? The front and rear bearings are completely different assemblies. The IDs and ODs are different. Anyway, I get the feeling from these date discrepancies that the bearings may have been marked on incoming inspection at Atlas, and possibly checked for runout and concentricity of the ID/OD. The bearings and outer races come separately from Timken, so somebody at Atlas may have paired them up in sets for best fit at that time. Jon ------- Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 14:05:58 EDT From: gto69ra4x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Lathe dating accuracy? Those dates were put on by Timken, along with the little "3" that shows they're grade-3 precision. And the dots to line up for best runout. GTO(John) ------- Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2005 15:47:07 -0000 From: "wfill" Subject: Re: change gears. [atlas_craftsman] "madkev000" wrote: > hi i have an atlas tv36 but have no change gears. i would like to > know the diameter of all gears so i can have these cut. thanks kev. Change gears used on the 10 and 12 inch Atlas and Craftsman lathes have these specs: DP = 16 Pressure angle = 14.5 Face width = .375 Bore = .753 Double keyway = .1875 If you do need to know the outside diameter, just use the formula o.d.=(n+2)/dp, where n is the tooth count. So a 32 tooth gear would have an o.d. of 2.125. Prior to 1939, the thickness of the entire gear was .375 . After that, the hub thickness was increased to .5 , and the suffix "A" was added to the part number (e.g. 9-101-32A). On the Atlas website, there are instructions for modifying the later gear to fit earlier lathes by facing the hub: http://www.atlas-press.com/tb_chgrmod.htm Similarly, the old style gear can be used on a later lathe by adding spacers of appropriate thickness. Bill Fill Olympia, WA olymachinex~xxcomcast.net ------- NOTE TO FILE: There is a discussion on the relative merits of Atlas-made 10" versus 12" lathes where a member of atlas_craftsman group had one of each and wondered which one to keep. That Jan 2006 conversation was placed in the Lathe Comparisons file here. Elements of this conversation relate to which quick change parts work with which size lathe, and those messages are found here. ------- Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 22:04:31 -0600 From: Jon Elson Subject: Re: Your opinion? - Which would you keep? 12" 101.07403 or ... gto69ra4x~xxaol.com wrote: >I may be wrong here, but don't the older 12" lathes use a slightly different QC box, too? The mating area is different, since they didn't use a reverse gearbox like the 10" machines, and the headstock is shaped differently. < The reversing scheme is the same on ALL QC machines, with a tumbler gear right below the spindle. Only the change gear 10" used the reversing gearbox. I think the old 12" is almost identical to the 10", and is essentially just a taller headstock and tailstock. But, you are right, looking at the pictures on Tony's lathe site, that the 10" QC most likely won't fit the old 12" without a good deal of hacking. I'm not sure there ever WAS a QC that would fit the old 12". Tony doesn't show one or mention such an option. Jon -------- Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 23:04:31 EST From: gto69ra4x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Your opinion? - Which would you keep? 12" 101.07403 or ... That's what I was talking about. Changegear 10" used the reversing gearbox whilst old 12" models used a tumbler. There's no place to mount a QC on an old 12", since nothing else was mounted there either. I think one guy did modify one to fit, but it was an epic project. GTO(John) ------- Date: Fri, 13 Jan 2006 21:15:37 -0800 (PST) From: Jim Ryan Subject: Re: Your opinion? - Which would you keep? 12" 101.07403 or ... I have a 10" with the QC gearbox and some 12" parts including a headstock, and for some reason I've saved a bunch of pictures of Atlas/Craftsman lathes I've seen on ebay and elsewhere. I can verify that: 1.) The 10" QC gearbox is NOT directly compatible with a 12" headstock. The 12" headstock flares out over the bed in the mounting area. 2.) There is a very similar looking QC gearbox made for the old 12" lathe. It bolts up to the side of the bed rather than the top. 3.) All the 12"ers seem to use a tumbler on the headstock for the reversing gears whether they are QC or not, while the 10" only has the tumbler if it's QC, since it mounts in place of the "unique" reversing gearbox. 4.) The newer 12" Craftsman with the 1/2" thick ways and heavy, squared off parts seems to be a whole different animal. Of course I haven't seen everything and your results may vary. Jim ------- Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 00:31:01 EST From: gto69ra4x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Atlas V54 question [atlas_craftsman] 1/28/2006, djkrexx~xxpeoplepc.com writes: >> Hi, I just joined the group a couple of weeks ago. I also just bought an Atlas V54 and am in the process of tearing it apart to clean, fix and lube it. I want it to be in top shape before I start using it. The motor pulley has a single hub and I want to replace with a dual. What size pulley did this lathe come with? Another question is about that little silver knob on top of the tail stock by the lock handle. Parts manual says it's an oil dropper. I don't quite get how it is used. Thanks for any help. Dave << The "oil dropper" is for lubricating a dead center. You fill with it oil, grease, or white lead and use the little dauber to apply to the center. Used to be common in smaller lathes when more center work was done. GTO(John) ------- Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 21:24:43 EST From: jmartin957x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Re: Brass Nut (10f-19) on a 101-07403 [alas_craftsman] [Needing a new nut for the cross-slide screw] 1/30/06, rschaal_95135x~xxyahoo.com writes: > It seems like a lot for a single part - yeah, I understand how > important it is to basic operation. Maybe one of the old timers would > like to tell us how to take a cross feed screw, grind it and harden it > so we could tap our own nuts for less than $50.00??? ... Richard If what you are getting at is making a tap from an old cross feed screw, you can do it. With a couple of caveats. You probably won't want to tap the whole thread with it - I would rough out the internal thread in the brass nut with a single point tool, then use the homemade tap to clean it up. Unless you use a brand new cross feed screw for the tap, the thread you cut with it will be undersize and will not fit a new cross feed screw. Even with a new cross feed screw used as a tap, the thread may not be loose enough to fit a new screw. You need some clearance. There are other options. Making an Acme tap from scratch might be almost as easy as making one from an old cross feed screw, and would not have the undersize problem. Or, you can buy brass or bronze nuts that you could machine to fit. You could buy an Acme sleeve nut that you could fit into a new piece, or perhaps into the worn nut. You could buy an Acme tap - I saw the post to the effect that they were over $150, but most of those that I've seen are in the $50 range. John Martin ------- Date: Mon, 30 Jan 2006 13:57:30 -0800 From: William Abernathy Subject: Re: Re: Brass Nut (10f-19) on a 101-07403 Before going to this extreme, make sure you need the part in the first place! Plagued by visible cross-slide slop, I was convinced I needed a new brass x-slide nut, to the point that I bought a chunk of brass and was trying to figure out how I was going to single-point the Acme section, when I took another look at the looseness in the cross-slide. All I needed to do was put a washer down with the short 1/4 - 20 retaining bolt that holds the nut to the cross-slide. Slop gone. Problem solved. And now I have some extra 1-inch brass bar to whittle... I'm not saying you don't need this--you may well. But be sure it's not a 39-cent problem before you start spending hard. William ------- Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 03:40:06 -0000 From: "Rob Peterson" Subject: Re: Brass Nut (10f-19) on a 101-07403 Buy some flame or oil hardening drill rod and machine it to the correct diameter. Buy a left-hand DIE (about $8 from Grizzly.com) and tap the drill rod. Now, cut some chip flutes and double check the tap threads for oopsies. You may also want to mill some flats on the shaft (or not). Harden the drill rod and you now have a left-hand tap for cross feed nuts and a left-hand die for cross feed screws. Much cheaper this way. RP ------- Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 14:25:46 EST From: jmartin957x~xxaol.com Subject: Re: Re: Brass Nut (10f-19) on a 101-07403 > Buy some flame or oil hardening drill rod ... You're on the right track, although it's a bit more complicated than that. Easier too, though. Complicated in that there are very few Acme dies available. I don't think I've ever seen one. And not from Grizzly. Acme taps are readily available, although more expensive than V thread taps. Should be able to find one in the $50 range. Acme taps remove a lot of metal, and you'll often find taps with separate roughing and finishing sections. Making one is possible, but you would have to do more than just flute a threaded piece. You'd have to back off some of the starting threads so that the cut would be taken by several teeth. I'd start by cutting the threads with a single point tool rather than a die. Cutting external Acme threads on a lathe is a lot easier than cutting small internal threads. The easier part of the tap making comes in the heat treatment. Hardening can cause warping and decarburization, and you'd have to grind it afterward to sharpen. For a tap made from drill rod that you are going to use only a couple of times and in brass, I'd skip the hardening and use it soft. John Martin ------- Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2006 19:04:12 -0500 From: bdmail Subject: Re: I killed my lathe [atlas618lathe] [Looking for some parts.] I would only call Atlas as a last resort. $$$$$$ I would try Jeff Beck up in Massachusetts. He sells all kinds of lathe equip and is reputable. He is a common poster on the SouthBendLathe group. His email is: Jeff Beck He also does ebay, and his ebay id is "tools4cheap" Another guy to try that I have personally had good luck with, but he only takes Postal Money Orders, is a guy named Lawrence on Ebay as "uniquetreasures4u", whose direct email is mickeyandme1972x~xxcs.com. Another quality and reputable dealer to my knowledge. You should just try to email them directly, and see if they have something that just happens to not be on ebay yet. Bernie ------- Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 02:26:13 -0000 From: "azbruno" Subject: Re: I killed my lathe I've also dealt with Larry (uniquetreasures4u) and his brother who has handled dealings with him. I've been very happy with them in all cases. But they aren't Postal MO's only -- I've done PayPal with them. Bruno ------- Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 18:23:15 -0500 From: "S or J" Subject: Atlas 618 Steady Rest and Other parts [atlas618lathe] and [atlas_craftsman] Hi Folks Can't remember who mentioned Jim Koelling's site http://stores.ebay.com/metalmagic either in the group atlas618lathe or atlas_craftsman as a source of a new steady rest for the 618 (or Craftsman equivalent). Thank you for solving my search for a quality rest, which I received today. Very pleased. It also did not hurt that it is about a third the cost of Clausing provided ones. His store has a number of parts, gears and accessories for various Atlas/Craftsman lathes as well as other brands, and is well worth a visit. He may also make custom gears or parts per special request. Jim has been a very pleasant person to deal with. Usual disclaimer: no connection except as a satisfied customer. Steve -- in Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada Machining and Metalworking at Home http://www.janellestudio.com/metal/ ------- Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 02:29:58 -0000 From: "Hank" Subject: Re: Atlas 618 Steady Rest and Other parts > Can't remember who mentioned Jim Koelling's site > http://stores.ebay.com/metalmagic > either in the group atlas618lathe or atlas_craftsman > as a source of a new steady rest for the 618 (or > Craftsman equivalent). Steve, that was Bruno on right here at atlas618lathe back on December 20, message #1679. Ken also has mentioned being pleased with the product. Glad it filled the bill for you. Hank ------- Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 05:40:39 -0000 From: "azbruno" Subject: Re: Atlas 618 Steady Rest and Other parts [atlas_craftsman] I've had a couple occasions to be in touch with Jim and find him to be very pleasant and easy to deal with. It appears that he's been expanding his inventory. I see more parts and also see that he's making them for the 6" and the 10s and 12s. If I need something he's got, I'd go there. Bruno ------- Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 17:29:52 -0500 From: "Joe R" Subject: Re: Motor Pulley Sizing [atlas_craftsman] "rmbates70" wrote: > I recently acquired a 10" Atlas lathe with vertical counter shaft--TV > 54. I think the motor origionally had a 2 step pulley. Mine only has > a single small pulley which may or may not be the right size. Does > anyone know the proper sizing of the two step pulley that should be on > the motor? I went through this a month or two ago on my Craftsman 12 and it's 2.5 & 4.5 inches. I ended up with two pulleys and got a 2.5 and 4" both on the motor shaft. Joe Romas ------- Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 22:04:57 -0600 From: "jerdal" Subject: Re: ATLAS MF Horizontal Mill [atlas_craftsman] > I am a newbie to the group, as well as milling, and I am in the > process of re-assembling an ATLAS MF I purchased recently. I noticed > the arbor driver on the front of the spindle is missing can anybody > lend a hand with a source for a replacment or suggestions for a "work > around"? It has the drawbar so how critical is the threaded arbor > driver to the operation?? (told you I was newbie!!) Can I still use > the ATLAS MF?? > Also I am looking for good sources for MT2 arbors, spacers, etc.. so > that I can hopefully make a 1" arbor for the cutters I have. Any help > would be appreciated !! Thanks Ron I don't think you need the driver...the taper and drawbar should suffice for any reasonable needs. That even though it IS an MT2, which is a little less capable than an R8 or MT3. Arbors can be made without too much trouble if you have any sort of decent lathe. They are actually sorta fun to make. Spacers you can get from Victor Machinery, they are quite reasonable on Polish-made ones, no need to worry about feeding the chicoms. Example shop-made (for MT3 though) arbors http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/jstanley/78arb1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0803/jstanley/125arb1.jpg JT ------- Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 00:04:17 -0600 From: "jerdal" Subject: Arbors, how made (was ATLAS MF Horizontal Mill) >Beautiful Job! I would love to read a run down of how you did it. Fred I turned them between centers. First I used the steady to face the ends and drill the center holes. One end I enlarged the center to max and drilled the drawbar hole, retaining just enough taper at OD to work with. I think I tapped it then so that I wouldn't have to clamp it later. I don't have that big a center drill, so I probably cut that center. I reduced at the journal end and the taper end just enough to put my biggest driving dog on. Then I roughed the whole thing close, starting with the main straight cutter-carrying area. Then roughed and turned the taper, using the compound for the angle. I left the journal end for the moment, so as not to have a narrow and bendable part. I filed and polished the taper to fit, and cut the straight portion at end of taper. Then I finished the straight portion of the arbor. I ground one with TP grinder, but decided that was a hassle, so the next I filed and polished to size all along. The arbors were threaded next. The final thing was to cut, file and polish the journal for the outer end. Last, so I wouldn't risk bending it on other steps. Then on to the mill, where the keyway(s) was cut. I might have done that after it was roughed close, to allow final turning to remove any relaxation in the material. That wasn't much problem in the end anyway, and I was afraid of the keyway causing trouble, so I didn't. I made the nuts to size. The nuts were threaded to fit the arbor threads, and the flats cut on the mill. JT ------- Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 09:56:45 -0700 From: "Paul K." Subject: RE: Large face dials [atlas_craftsman] FYI: I purchased a set of the Large dials from Tallgrass Tools. They are great! They were easy to install and are very accurate. I put them on my 12 inch Craftsman. I highly recommend them and the company and their products. Paul K. ------- From: "bear1007_1950" myersbearx~xxwmconnect.com Date: Sat May 6, 2006 4:08pm(PDT) Subject: Craftsman Mill [atlas_craftsman] I have a Craftsman Mill 101-15500 I need a gear for the feed gear box. The book calls for a MF-101-24A and a MF-101-20A. The two gears reverse tumbler lever that make the table go in forward or reverse. It's the two gears on the top side-by-side on the reverse gear tumbler assembly. If anybody has their machine apart I need the size and number of teeth on the gear, and where I can get them. I have the one but it looks to be needing replacement. Thanks Dan ------- From: "Charley" holts001x~xxaol.com Date: Sat May 6, 2006 4:44pm(PDT) Subject: Re: Craftsman Mill Greetings, the reverse tumbler for the MF, MFA, MFB series of Horizontal mills was the same used on the 6" lathe. These parts are most likely still available from the Clausing Service Center, with the the same part numbers. My MFB has steel gears with bronse bearing inserts; I don't know if they are original, but I think so, the back gears are steel too. The rest of the gears are Zamak (zinc alloy) in the Change-O-Matic. The last Atlas 6 inch I owned had Zamak tumbler gears also. I hope this helps. ------- From: "ekzacto" thompsonjcx~xxsbcglobal.net Date: Sat May 6, 2006 9:55pm(PDT) Subject: Lead Screw Repair Method [atlas_craftsman] I've followed with interest all of the recent discussions on Craftsman lead screw repairs and replacements, reversing them end for end, Clausing's high price for new ones, etc. I'm wondering why nobody has suggested buying a length of acme threaded rod, cutting it to length, and turning the ends to fit. If the lathe has power crossfeed, you would also have to cut a key slot the full length of the screw. There are no critical tolerances involved in making this slot, however, so it probably could be done, even on a small mill, by making multiple setups. In the worst case, you would have to take it to a local machine shop. I found one source for the material in the 2005 MSC catalog which lists 3/4-8 precision, alloy steel, acme threaded rod in six-foot lengths for $54.24 (Item No. 01206184). I must be missing something in thinking this is a practical, low- cost way to go. So in your replies, please be kind and tolerant in pointing out my ignorance. I'm here to learn. ------- From: "Wayde C. Gutman" waydecgutmanx~xxwbhsi.net Date: Sat May 6, 2006 11:39pm(PDT) Subject: Clausing Industrial Prices [atlas_craftsman] Recently, I downloaded the price sheet for parts related to the 12" Atlas from the Clausing Industrial website, what I am wondering, are they for real ? # 750 3AT Collet Holder................................$608.87 #6626A (2988) Follower Rest........................$178.86 #6822 (29845) Taper Attachment...................$562.41 #6802 (20145) Quick-Change Attachment.....$1751.56 [!] Who are they kidding? I do not want to turn the lathe into a museum piece, just more usable; after all, this lathe has been in the family for 50 years and I am just the second owner (Dad being the original). Has anyone dealt with Clausing Industrial and bought anything from them ? With that kind of price, I wouldn't mind going into third party manufacturing and offer a Quick-Change Attachment (gear box) for MUCH less than the above price. wcgutman ------- From: "mertbaker" MertBakerx~xxprodigy.net Date: Sat May 6, 2006 11:47pm(PDT) Subject: Re: Clausing Industrial Prices I will bet that the parts are no longer in inventory, and are made to order in their custom shop. I have run into this "fantastic price" thing before, only with waterwheel governors. These things have been made for a couple of hundred years, and hardly ever wear out; the mfg is still in biz, and will undertake to supply parts even for the last word model of 1887. Mert MertBakerx~xxverizon.net ------- From: "j.c.gerber" j.c.gerberx~xxtbwil.ch Date: Sun May 7, 2006 0:59am(PDT) Subject: Re: Clausing Industrial Prices The Clausing prices are astonishing. When one is buying one of their machines needing new parts, it is no more worthwhile. I bought a few from them, especially those ringing Zamak gears and splitnuts. Had a funny story with one of the parcels which they sent to Swaziland (Africa) instead of Switzerland! When the lathe restoration was finished I was not so happy with it and sold it. Mind you I just sold a Myford Super 7 for the same reasons. They were asking approx. US$350 for the lower and upper carriage feedscrews + nuts. I finally bought a second hand 10 in. Italian lathe with carriage and cross feeds and this for the price I could sell the Myford + US$400. A real industrial machine, not to compare with a Myford or an Atlas which are light in comparison. Jean-Claude, Switzerland www.homestead.com/turnandmill ------- From: "Steve" skadsmx~xxpeoplepc.com Date: Mon May 8, 2006 2:05pm(PDT) Subject: Re: Clausing Industrial Prices I priced a bull gear from Atlas, and the price had jumped from $7.70 sometime in the 1960's or 70's to the current price of $178. Inflation should have put it in the $30-$40 range IIRC. What happened was that the mold or die they used to manufacture the part wore out, and the new parts are machined instead of cast. Probably a better part, though, but they are probably only making them a few at a time, and hence higher production cost and higher price. Steve ------- Subject: New Member [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "Michael Fagan" woodworker88x~xxgmail.com woodworker_88 Date: Mon Jun 5, 2006 4:01 pm (PDT) > Now I need to replace the crank handles on the cross-slide and > compound rest. Any suggestions as to where I might get replacements? > Doesn't need to be NOS as long as they are not really beat up. Two answers: First, about the serial #, many people have asked the group about some sort of look up but as far as I know no such thing exists. However, the model # is useful for looking things up in the manuals. Two, I made my own cross-slide handle by drilling a 3/8 hole in the middle of some 7/8" diameter aluminum shafting and then drilling a 1/4" hole through the shaft about 1/4" in from the end. I took another piece of 1/2" shafting and turned one end down to press fit in the 1/4" hole to become the crank. I milled flats on the large shafting for the nut that holds the handle on the cross slide screw and for the crank and assembled the pieces. I didn't have the broach for the keyway slot for the woodruff key on the leadscrew and the handle hasn't seemed to slip without it. Hope this helps Michael ------- Re: What's this attachment/accessory? [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "Glenn N" sleykinx~xxcharter.net Date: Mon Jul 17, 2006 7:45 pm (PDT) > My new lathe's late owner used it for refurbishing alternators. > This funky lil'motor (Oster) was mounted on an adjustable toolpost > support. It is fitted with a nasty little blade, like you'd find > at the dentist... As others have said it is for undercutting commutators on armatures. The cool thing is it will also cut slots and grooves or splines. You can use other cutters with it and do many cool things. I believe it could also be used as a toolpost grinder of sorts. Depending on how the motor is attached it could probably also be adapted to use as a milling atachement. You can use the indexing holes on the bullgear to index splines or a gear on the spindle with the proper number of teeth to get the type indexing you like. Could be a very versitile little tool. Glenn ------- Re: What's this attachment/accessory? Posted by: "rob macdonald" robbiemac947x~xxsbcglobal.net Date: Mon Jul 17, 2006 7:16 pm (PDT) What you're looking at is a mica undercutter. This was used after the commutator was turned to "lower" the mica insulation between segments. I thought they usually came as part of a set, the undercutter, a headstock chuck and tailstock chuck with brass jaws so as not to damage the bearing surfaces. I think it's a nice little piece even if you don't need it. Regards, Rob ------- Re: What's this attachment/accessory? Posted by: "gto69ra4x~xxaol.com" Date: Mon Jul 17, 2006 8:32 pm (PDT) In case anyone's curious as to what this looks like in operation, here's a current mica undercutter that has its own centers (instead of a lathe): http://www.martindaleco.com/HTML/UndercuttersHandHeldEtc/Utility.htm GTO(John) ------- Atlas Steady rest 12x36 [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "BRUCE ROGERS" brogers1x~xxvcweb.org Date: Sat Aug 5, 2006 9:49 pm (PDT) I looked on eBay for a steady rest at a low cost. I thought of machining my own. However I came up with an alternative that I would like to pass along. I contacted Harbor Freight via their tech support phone number and ordered a Steady rest for their 12x36 lathe. As a replacement part, it cost 28.80 plus tax plus shipping for a total of $35.98. It took 8 weeks, but it finally showed up. I had been looking for a steady rest on ebay, but most seemed to be going for a pretty stiff price. When I got the Harbor Freight steady rest, it was set up for a lathe with a V-way. However, after a little milling of the base (I took off around 0.120) and a little milling of the clamp piece (I made it a little narrower and a little bit thinner), they fit perfectly on my 12x36. The quality of the steady rest, when done, is quite high. The body is made of cast iron. The tips of the fingers are brass. I'm passing this info along to other Atlas owners as a low-cost way of getting a nice steady rest at a very low cost. $36. Bruce ------- Arbor support for Atlas MFC Mill [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "cwlathes" carvelwx~xxabsamail.co.za Date: Thu Oct 26, 2006 8:54 am (PDT) Does anybody have any idea where I might find an Arbor support (M1-60) for the Atlas MFC Mill? Need it to complete the restoration of the machine I bought recently, and previous owner has no idea what has happened to it! Clausing can't help although Jo has offered to send me the drawing if I land up having to do it the hard way. Would however like to find an original from a collectors perspective if possible - machine is otherwise in good shape and is coming on nicely. Rgds, Carvel (South Africa) ------- Re: Arbor support for Atlas MFC Mill Posted by: "jim and rose" halbert____1x~xxmsn.com Date: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:06 pm (PDT) If you are restoring the machine to work condition, I will be glad to send a picture of how the replacement was made for mine (really quite simple) and works great. Jim ------- Re: Change Gears for a 9 inch Atlas [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "EARL BOWER" earl.bower1x~xxverizon.net Date: Tue Jan 9, 2007 10:12 am ((PST)) The gears are different between the 6" and 9/10/12 atlas. The gears for the 6" is (straight from Atlas) 24p, 14 1/2 degree. They use a bushing that is double keyed and is 1/2 o.d. The gears for the 9/10/12 is (checked with my Boston gear gauge) 16p, 14 1/2 degree. They use a bushing that is double keyed and is 3/4 o.d. Any good Power Transmission company can supply the gears and bushings for the 9/10/12 lathes but you will have problems locating the 6" gears (probably have to come from Atlas/Clausing). I have both lathes (6" and 10") in my shop. Earl Bower ------- Re: Change Gears for a 9 inch Atlas Posted by: "kendall" merc2dogsx~xxhotmail.com Date: Tue Jan 9, 2007 1:51 pm ((PST)) "Glenn N" wrote: > According to this Atlas bulletin, http://www.atlas-press.com/tb_chgrmod.htm > you will need to face off the hub of newer gears to use on the older > lathes. Glenn Neff Medford, OR Yes, it's a pain, I have two 'mostly' complete sets, and one's an earlier set with narrow hubs. Have washer shims faced to be the same thickness as the hubs, and just balance everything out. I think it's easier overall to get a set of later sleeves for the gears, and use them as-is. Ken ------- washer materal [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "nickkoko" nicholas.kokotovichx~xxboeing.com Date: Tue Jan 30, 2007 9:21 am ((PST)) 10 inch Atlas lathe -- does anybody know what the countershaft spindle assembly washers part number 9-111 are made from? ------- Re: washer materal Posted by: "speedphoto300" speedphoto300x~xxyahoo.com Date: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:42 am ((PST)) The countershaft on my 7B shaper has the 9-111 washers on each end, mine are felt. I think they are supposed to be oil seals. Joe ------- Re: washer materal Posted by: "Lucas Thompson" Lucas.Thompsonx~xxwatchguard.com Date: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:51 am ((PST)) The ones I pulled out of my 1941 10F last year seemed like they were made of phenolic, but the new ones I got from Clausing were a white felt material. I guess it was old dried up grease that made them so hard. ------- Timken Bearing Decal [atlas618lathe] Posted by: "riellyrob" riellyrobx~xxyahoo.com Date: Mon Jan 29, 2007 5:12 pm ((PST)) After playing around with my Timken Bearind decal in Photoshop, I finally managed to finish the file. First of all, my thanks to David Sampar, one of our members, who furnished me with a fairly complete decal that had fallen off his lathe. I combined it with other decal images I had and made new ones. I found out that there were several varieties, so I picked what I felt were the more dominant ones and made one file of each. MicroMark has decal making material. You can download the file, load it into almost any program (I used WordPerfect), resize it, and print it on your ink jet printer. I think the size I used was 1.987 inches wide, but you can run test sizes and measure it against your lathe. I am posting them in our Files as Timken Bearing 1 and 2. Have fun. Regards, Rob Rielly ------- Re: Timken Bearing Decal Posted by: "n5fee" n5feex~xxnetzero.net Date: Mon Jan 29, 2007 7:59 pm ((PST)) I have been following this thread with some interest. I ordered some of the MicroMark decal material to try. I bought both clear and white background material with the spray sealer. I bought decal material for the inkjet printers. I use an Epson Stylus 800 color inkjet printer. I have used it for several years and it makes great prints on paper, but the decals I tried were very poor quality and not usable. What type of printer and ink are you using? Dallas Shell Atlas 618 & Craftsman 214 ------- Re: MFC owner first post - Spindle removal [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "Carvel Webb" carvelwx~xxabsamail.co.za Date: Thu Mar 15, 2007 10:14 am ((PDT)) > Carvel: Would you know if any of the pulleys/gears from the mill are > interchangeable with those from any of the Atlas/Craftsan lathes? > If so which models lathes? Dennis The headstock pulley, and its mating pulley on the countershaft are broader than an "A" section belt, and shallower than a "B" section belt, and to my knowledge are only used on the Mill. I had to have belts made for my machine (cut from belts used on a variable speed drive) - the motor pulley is also unique I think. All my Atlas lathes are 10F series, and the gears are a different Diametral Pitch to the Mill. I am not familiar with the gears used on the 6" lathe - maybe someone else can help us here? I did however find that some of the gears from the Craftsman Dunlap lathe did fit in the Pick-o-matic train on the Mill, but also check with Clausing whether they don't have the one you need. Regards, Carvel ------- leadscrews sizes [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "bretthjones" brettx~xx5foot2.com Date: Thu Mar 15, 2007 8:02 am ((PDT)) I do not remember if there is a difference between the change gear and quick change leadscrew and I'm hoping someone could help me out. I just picked up a 54" bed (that I'm thinking about having ground, along with a spare carriage I have) and I'm in need of a screw to fit my change gear setup. Also, has anyone made a new screw from a 3/4" x 8tpi blank acme screw? I'd like to hear how that went. Thanks ------- Re: leadscrews sizes Posted by: "Jon Elson" elsonx~xxpico-systems.com Date: Thu Mar 15, 2007 9:51 am ((PDT)) The very earliest Atlas lathes had a 5/8" leadscrew. All later machines have 3/4". I put a QC on a 10" lathe that came with change gears, and it was a very simple bolt-on replacement, and required no modification or fudging of the leadscrew. There may be a difference on the late-model (1965+) Craftsman lathes that had the overload clutch on the output shaft of the QC. Jon ------- Re: my "new" Atlas 10" Lathe and on and on and on... [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "lapoltba" lapoltbax~xxgmail.com Date: Wed Jun 6, 2007 6:14 pm ((PDT)) > You can do things on the Atlas that most other lathes don't provide > for. I recently used the headstock indexing feature to make 2 of the > headstock lever gears for my extra Unimats by using the carriage as a > hand shaper. Can't easily index on any of the other lathes. Hmmm sounds cool, how did it work out as an improvised shaper? I was considering finding a way to get cast iron or steel gears for the lathe; the Zamak maskes me nervous. Think i could cut a gear of that size/material like you did? 60 holes makes 6 degrees per hole which is kind of limiting. And i don't even know the pitch or pressure angle of the gearing on the lathe. Anyone got a clue? ------- Re: my "new" Atlas 10" Lathe and on and on and on... Posted by: "Joe Smith" joex~xxjesinc.net Date: Wed Jun 6, 2007 8:15 pm ((PDT)) I was cutting 10 and 12 teeth so the 60 divisions were ample. I had a gear to go by so I ground and lapped a hss bit to match the tooth. Then I mounted the cutter in my qc and adjusted height so the tip was on center line using a center in the tailstock. The blank was turned to size (2l4 steel) and the headstock was locked. I had measured the depth of cut from the original. I used the carriage hand wheel to make cuts at .002 to .003 a cut. Took about 1 hr for each gear. If I wanted to cut a larger gear I would make a holder to position an original and the blank on an arbor in the headstock. Then a locking pin assy would be fabricated. Also a lever setup would be fabricated clamped to the bed and set up to push the carriage. Before Mr Early had to delete the files in the Yahoo groups there were several examples of this method pictured in articles. The lever setup would allow heavier cuts without danger of damaging the carriage. If you don't push your lathe too hard the Zamak gears should be fine. My lathe runs a lot quieter with the Zamak than my SB hvy 10's do. You might also search for "gear hobbing" on the web. That could also be done on the lathe faster than the shaper method. Joe Smith ------- Re: my "new" Atlas 10" Lathe and on and on and on... Posted by: "Brett Jones" brettx~xx5foot2.com Date: Wed Jun 6, 2007 9:42 pm ((PDT)) I was unsure of the Zamak gears when I first picked up my Atlas, but I'm at the point now that I feel the material gets a bad rap just because it looks like pot metal. It's strong and wears well enough. I had to replace a worn out 20 tooth gear and 2 others are worn enough to justify replacement (though I still use them). My lathe is a mid 50's vintage 10-F and I'm assuming the gear set I have is as old. My lathe had a broken compound gear and badly mangled spindle drive gear (the one that drives the change gears). This damage was due to the stud the compound gear runs on becoming loose and the gears falling out of mesh. All that said, I would had preferred most of the apron parts be steel and lead screw reverser case and internals also. Brett Jones ------- Re: my "new" Atlas 10" Lathe and on and on and on... Posted by: "jerdalx~xxsbcglobal.net" jerdalx~xxsbcglobal.net Date: Thu Jun 7, 2007 6:31 am ((PDT)) The issue with Zamak isn't that it is inherently trash. The problem is threefold. It is of course less strong than steel or iron, and it will break when the other materials will not, and there is very little chance of repairing a broken part. It has been done, but is rather difficult. If the mix of alloy materials was off, and particularly if ANY lead was added, as it seems to have been to ease molding in some cases, the Zamak will corrode and split, turning to flakes and powder over time. Because it is a molding material, the parts made with it often have features that are very hard to replicate if you need to machine a replacement part for a damaged or flaking Zamak part. JT ------- Re: Need a Replacement Gear [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "Michael Fagan" woodworker88x~xxgmail.com Date: Mon Jun 11, 2007 5:47 pm ((PDT)) On 6/11/07, musicengr < frankdx~xxlmi.net> wrote: > Hello all. I have an Atlas/Craftsman lathe that dates from the early > 1940's or so. One of the gears is missing teeth and I would like to > find a replacement gear. The gear has 24 teeth and the pitch diameter > (I believe this is the correct term) is 1 inch. The gear has a 1/2 > hollowed out center for a bearing. I've looked locally in the SF Bay > Area for a replacement part and the catch is the gear I need is 3/8 > inch thick (as are all the gears) while replacement gears are 1/8 inch > thick. The cost to have a 3/8" gear made up is more than I paid for the > lathe ($200.00! I may be able to adapt a 1/8 inch replacement gear, but > I'm concerned about the strees it may be under. > Does anyone have a source for such a gear? Best to all, Frank Clausing has the parts, however, in the SF Bay Area, Motion Industries carries the entire line of Boston Gear components, which should have something close to what you need. Since you said that the 24 tooth gear has a pitch diameter of 1", this would make your lathe a 6", which uses 24 DP gears. Boston Gear carries a 24 tooth, 24 DP, 14.5 degree pressure angle (the correct specs for your gear) in 0.250 face width, in either a brass or a steel gear. This should work well for your machine. Removing the hub and boring the bearing seat shouldn't be difficult operations on your machine. The entire Boston Gear gear catalog is available at http://www.bostongear.com/pdf/upload/lit/P-1482-BG_cat-OpenGearing(3).pdf The 24 DP gears are on page 15 and 16. Hope this gives you some ideas. Michael Los Altos HS Robotics Team ------- Re: Lathe Bed Variations [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "Jon Elson" elsonx~xxpico-systems.com Date: Sun Jun 17, 2007 1:03 pm ((PDT)) catboat15x~xxaol.com wrote: > As I understand it there were two forms of bed, one had thicker ways (vertical thickness) than the other. This would affect the positron of the saddle, lead screw etc. so check your present bed before buying a different one. My present Atlas has something I have never seen on others in that the tailstock end mounting has only one hole centered between the ways. Most others I have seen have two mounting holes just like the head stock end. < All 10" lathes had 3/8" thick ways. Early 12" lathes had the same bed and all other items, just the headstock and tailstock were taller. The later 12" lathes had 1/2" thick ways, although all other dimensions seemed to be the same (inner and outer width of the ways, etc.) The later 12" headstocks, at least, were wider than the 10", so there was no part of the bed exposed in front of the headstock. The QC or reversing gearbox on the 10" bolted to that exposed lip of bed with 2 vertical bolts. The late 12" QC bolts to the side of the headstock with 3 horizontal bolts under the thread chart. Jon ------- NOTE TO FILE: The following thread adds information to a similar discussion that you can find above in January 2003. ------- Graduated dials [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "pjamesanderson" kiramunchx~xxsympatico.ca Date: Mon Aug 27, 2007 9:37 am ((PDT)) I am considering putting larger handwheels or at least larger dials on the compound. Does anyone have a source for larger graduated dials and or handwheels? It's very difficult for me to see the small graduations any more. Thanx. Pete ------- Re: Graduated dials Posted by: "Shane J. Wolfe" shanewolfex~xxmac.com Date: Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:13 am ((PDT)) There was an article in Machinist magazine this past month on upgrading the dials for older lathes. It would be a nice DIY project. ------- Re: Graduated dials Posted by: "Brett Jones" brettx~xx5foot2.com bretthjones Date: Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:10 am ((PDT)) www.tallgrasstools.com has unfinished and finished cross feed and compound dial kits that look nice. I've turned a set from raw stock for my Craftsman but I've not yet graduated or numbered them. I want/need to make an indexing/positioning jig that will allow me to stamp the numbers consistently before I go any father. Brett Jones ------- Re: Graduated dials Posted by: "catboat15x~xxaol.com" catboat15x~xxaol.com Date: Sat Sep 1, 2007 12:41 pm ((PDT)) It has been done by several people. I made new dials for my old six inch Atlas many years ago. I no longer have the drawings I made for that project, but it is doable. At the same time I did another mod that added power cross feed to the six inch lathe. Primitive, but worked well. I added a drum of about 1.5 inch diam onto the right end of the lead screw and with my new dial on the cross feed I also included a drum. Then a pulley on a moveable clamp that fastened onto the edge of my bench. I had power cross feed by winding up a cord on the drum on the lead screw and winding cord off the drum on the cross feed. I then could face larger things like wheels without the "lines" left by hand turning the cross feed handle. I don't see why the same general scheme could be used on a ten or twelve inch size Atlas that was not provided with the power cross feed. (I also made a "one use" steady rest from ply wood to face off some copper tube for a boiler shell.) Use your imagination and you can come up with all kinds of useful "gadgets and improvements" for your lathe. John Meacham from the high deserts of Calif 12 inch Atlas lathe, mini mill, HF band saw and a rusty file. ------- Innards of a tail stock? [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "ahz" ahzx~xxinsightbb.com Date: Wed Oct 24, 2007 6:57 pm ((PDT)) My tail stock's innards have been significantly replaced by shop-made parts. I am wondering if anyone has large clear pics of their tail stock's innards so I can compare and contrast. ------- Re: Innards of a tail stock? Posted by: "Michael Fagan" woodworker88x~xxgmail.com Date: Wed Oct 24, 2007 7:06 pm ((PDT)) I don't have any pictures, but out of curiosity, what has been replaced? I have found that several components were much better served by properly made replacements. In particular, after it stripped at a rather inconvenient moment, I replaced my tailstock locking bolt (the one that clamps it to the ways) with a Grade 8 hardened one several sizes larger than the original and it performed much better, even though I have to use a separate wrench with it. A cam lock upgrade is in the works (currently at the CAD stage, a prototype is forthcoming). ------- Re: Innards of a tail stock? Posted by: "ahz" ahzx~xxinsightbb.com Date: Wed Oct 24, 2007 7:41 pm ((PDT)) The tailstock screw bearing has been modified, I think The "bearing" within is 2 hex nuts with their threads mostly turned away. The nuts have been pressed into the bearing casting. The tail stock ram screw has probably been replaced by a bolt. There are about 1.5" of thread, then about another inch that has had the threads turned away. This was done roughly but competently. Then the bolt is turned down to 3/8" or so, very roughly. This passes through the "bearing" and accepts a nut which holds on the aluminum plate that passes for a handle. ------- Re: Innards of a tail stock? Posted by: "Michael Fagan" woodworker88x~xxgmail.com Date: Wed Oct 24, 2007 10:22 pm ((PDT)) Hmm. That's not exactly the kind of modifications I had in mind. You definitely need some original or high quality replacement parts. One thing to note is that the tailstock ram screw (to advance the tailstock ram) is left handed, so that turning the handle clockwise extends the ram, and turning it counterclockwise retracts it. I suppose that the bolt is left handed? Michael ------- Re: Innards of a tail stock? Posted by: "stormcrow_40291" ahzx~xxinsightbb.com Date: Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:28 pm ((PDT)) Well, I suppose I tore it down for a reason. I didn't recall the ram bolt threads being left-handed. I screwed two 5/8th nuts onto it (jam nut technique) to get a nut off the other end, where the handle should have been. Surely I would have noticed a left-hand thread. So you're telling me your ram bolt and the receiving ram are threaded left-handed? I'll post pics tonight. ------- Re: Innards of a tail stock? Posted by: "Michael Fagan" woodworker88x~xxgmail.com Date: Thu Oct 25, 2007 2:28 pm ((PDT)) Yep. Also, 5/8" seems very large indeed. My guess is that someone drilled out the old ram and retapped it 5/8" RH. The old one is about 3/8" or 1/2" IIRC. Also, it should be an Acme thread form if I'm not mistaken. Michael ------- Re: Innards of a tail stock? Posted by: "stormcrow_40291" ahzx~xxinsightbb.com Date: Fri Oct 26, 2007 5:37 am ((PDT)) Well, I already told my wife that the reason I am getting my lathe is to fix my lathe. So it seems I wasn't being witty at all. I suppose I'll one-up the previous hack and drill out HIS threads, ream to size, then press in a turned-to-cylindrical left-handed acme nut. Of course, I may well have to press the nut into a bushing, and then press the bushing into the ram. In any event, it doesn't sound too hard. The tailstock works in its current sad state, so I don't have to rush it. Hmmm... I wonder if the ram fits through the headstock. *** note to self - when designing a lathe in the future, be sure to make the hole through the headstock large enough to machine as many parts of the lathe as possible. *** ------- Exploded diagram for Atlas/Craftsman 12" 101.07383 lathe [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "stormcrow_40291" ahzx~xxinsightbb.com Date: Fri Oct 26, 2007 8:07 am ((PDT)) I don't remember if I posted this link or not. The link contains 4 pages of exploded diagrams and parts lists as well as an image of the change gear diagram from inside the gear cover. Apologies if it's a dupe. http://home.insightbb.com/~antinice/101.07383.html ------- Re: Set Screws For Tool Post Slide..... Replacements.... [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "Michael Fagan" woodworker88x~xxgmail.com Date: Sun Nov 25, 2007 2:48 pm ((PST)) On Nov 25 capecodrodbuilding wrote: > I am new to the group and to the Metal Lathe Business and recently purchased a restored Craftsman 101.07301 Lathe... The 8/32 X 7/16 set screw on the slide I managed to pop the screw heads off, I seem to only be able to find 8/32 X 7/16 Allen Head screws at the hardware store, will these work and if not where should I look to buy replacements? I have already checked Sears online for doghead screws and are no longer available.... < Socket (Allen) head cap screws should work fine. ------- [atlas_craftsman] Re: Need Crank for 12" Atlas/Craftsman Lathe Milling Attachment Posted by: "Bobby May" widgitsx~xxsbcglobal.net Date: Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:48 pm ((PST)) Just checked my attachment and have calipers in hand. # on one of the spokes is M6-23. Has a .375 bore w/ .125 broached key slot for a woodruff key in the shaft. Hub length measures close to .875 long. OD at 2.7" Hub diameter of .75" 3 spokes dished hanwheel. Knob length about 1.5" Hope it helps Bobby ------- Re: Need Crank for 12" Atlas/Craftsman Lathe Milling Attachment Posted by: "ammonidaho" ammonidahox~xxyahoo.com Date: Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:49 pm ((PST)) The crank handle on the milling attachment is the same as the handle on the 6" lathe tailstock. I have both and they match. The number on both is M6-23. John Rhudy ------- Apron Wick Oilers (Pipe Cleaners) - Need Some Help [Atlas_Craftsman] Posted by: "vance_wiley" vance_wileyx~xxyahoo.com Date: Wed Dec 19, 2007 10:09 am ((PST)) Hello - My first post was a request for help with routing of the wick oilers in the apron - perhaps I should have placed that higher in the message. Does anyone have any idea of the routing of the "pipe cleaners" to provide lubrication to the appropriate locations? One seems self evident - to the bearing of the bevel gear around the lead screw. The other two are questions in my mind. A photo of the original routing would really be helpful. Thanks, Vance ------- Re: Apron Wick Oilers (Pipe Cleaners) - Need Some Help Posted by: "LouD31M066x~xxaol.com" Date: Wed Dec 19, 2007 2:23 pm ((PST)) I believe you may be thinking of the spindle oilers which need something absorbent to "meter" to Timken tapered roller bearings...other type spindle bearings and the rest of the lathe are lubricated per the oiling chart. Chart is obtainable from Clausing Atlas and is in Manual of Lathe Operations. Using the chart will make remembering a not so obvious oiling point easier. Pipe cleaners and shoe laces are but a few of the creative materials used...really only matters that oil is available when and where needed. Too much and too soon is better than too little too late. Louis ------- Re: Apron Wick Oilers (Pipe Cleaners) - Need Some Help Posted by: "Michael Fagan" woodworker88x~xxgmail.com Date: Wed Dec 19, 2007 3:20 pm ((PST)) No, when I disassembled the apron of my 12x36 underdrive, I also found pipe cleaner like oil wicks directing oil from the oil cup on the front of the apron to various points inside. I, too, would be interested if anybody has a diagram of where those go. (I pulled mine out due to damage.) Michael ------- Re: Apron Wick Oilers (Pipe Cleaners) - Need Some Help Posted by: "LouD31M066x~xxaol.com" Date: Wed Dec 19, 2007 8:06 pm ((PST)) Factory or add on? Louis ------- Re: Apron Wick Oilers (Pipe Cleaners) - Need Some Help Posted by: "Glenn N" sleykinx~xxcharter.net Date: Wed Dec 19, 2007 9:17 pm ((PST)) Factory, and I know I have seen it shown on a piece of paper around here someplace but damned if I can find it. It goes in through the hollow screw on the front of the apron. Mine is missing also. Perhaps on an exploded parts diagram? ------- Re: Apron Wick Oilers (Pipe Cleaners) - Need Some Help Posted by: "Michael Fagan" woodworker88x~xxgmail.com Date: Wed Dec 19, 2007 9:34 pm ((PST)) Nope, I have the original manual, and they're not listed in either the parts list nor the exploded diagrams. ------- Re: Apron Wick Oilers (Pipe Cleaners) - Need Some Help Posted by: "vance_wiley" vance_wileyx~xxyahoo.com Date: Wed Dec 19, 2007 10:27 pm ((PST)) Hello - I posted the question - Thanks for the responses. I have the 23 page Owners Manual purchased within the last 4 weeks from Clausing - the part is listed as "pipe cleaner" without a part number - the diagram shows ONE cleaner extending from the oil cup inside the apron - there are 3 holes and my lathe has 3 pipe cleaner wicks from the cup reservoir (fed by the flip top oiler cup at the front of the apron (#56) thru the hollow bolt to the cup (#55). The pipe cleaners are designated #60 on the diagram. Mine are mangled up and no path or direction is evident except the one to the bevel gear (#46 & #47). I will try to post a scan of a part of the Apron Assembly for viewing. Thanks again, Vance ------- Re: Apron Wick Oilers (Pipe Cleaners) - Need Some Help PHOTO ADDED Posted by: "vance_wiley" vance_wileyx~xxyahoo.com Date: Wed Dec 19, 2007 10:46 pm ((PST)) The photo of the Partial Apron Assembly diagram is in a new folder titled "Atlas / Craftsman 101.28910 12" Bench". Thanks, Vance ------- Re: Apron Wick Oilers (Pipe Cleaners) - Need Some Help Posted by: "Bobby May" widgitsx~xxsbcglobal.net Date: Wed Dec 19, 2007 9:10 pm ((PST)) When I got my 12"x 36" Craftsman lathe the power feed would not work. It was frozen on the bevel pinion gears from old grease and lack of use. So I tore the apron apart and found no oil wicks whatsoever, After a quick cleanup I discovered that the bracket that holds this gear set has a small channel to direct the oil to the bushing inside the gear, great Idea but there was no hole drilled at the proper location to make this part of the system work correctly. A small drill fixed this pretty quick. I also have a 15" x 42" LeBlond and also belong to the LeBlond lathe group. The boys over there have purchased the special oil wicking for the aprons on their lathes from McMaster. Only problem is you have to buy 3 feet of the stuff when you only need 6 inches Later Bobby May ------- Re: Apron Wick Oilers (Pipe Cleaners) - Need Some Help Posted by: "vance_wiley" vance_wileyx~xxyahoo.com vance_wiley Date: Wed Dec 19, 2007 11:02 pm ((PST)) Bobby - Did your lathe have the outside oil cup with the flip top and a reaervoir inside? The channel you describe in the top of the bracket/bushing (#46) is the thing I think indicates the path for ONE of the pipe cleaners - it would wick oil into the bushing for the bevel gear. It appears the other two simply "wipe" something - but I do not know what. Also - what is supposed to oil the cross slide gear with the ball end shaft which is operated by the lever/knob? This is diagram (#41) and part 3980- 24. This turns constantly while the leadscrew turns - and I see no provisions for lubrication. One reason for "neutral" on the toggle, I suppose. I see the gearcase needing oil also but I am concerned about getting the pipe cleaners caught in the lead screw and the gears. Thanks, Vance ------- Re: Apron Wick Oilers (Pipe Cleaners) - Need Some Help PHOTO ADDED Posted by: "vance_wiley" vance_wileyx~xxyahoo.com Date: Sat Dec 22, 2007 2:14 pm ((PST)) > The photo of the Partial Apron Assembly diagram is in a new folder > titled "Atlas / Craftsman 101.28910 12" Bench ". Thanks, Vance Found a photo of the apron back - and the pipe cleaner wicks - two of the three are pretty clear as to routing. A photo has been added to the file "Atlas / Craftsman 101.28910 12" Bench". One lays down onto the bevel gear bracket/bushing and oils that gear thru the channel formed on the top of the bushing and thru the hole into the bearing. It appears it would be possible to install this bushing upside down and defeat the oiling. The second one goes to the top of the gearbox where there is a hole for oiling. The third appears (?) to be routed behind the cross-slide drive gear and perhaps onto the other beveled gear (?). Has anyone noticed the correct routing for the third wick? Thanks, and Merry Christmas to all. Vance ------- Re: Looking for 24 tooth change gear [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "ghettodad59" ghettodad59x~xxyahoo.com Date: Wed Jan 30, 2008 4:36 pm ((PST)) >Does anyone have a gear and bushing or know where I might purchase them? On my model these gears were originally made of nylon and are sacrificed during crashes to prevent more expensive damage to other parts. I bought replacements from Clausing after my crash but they sent me aluminum gears with keyways. They work but don't provide crash protection. Since that time I acquired tools and knowledge to make replacement gears and made a bunch of 20-tooth and 24-tooth gears from nylon. I've managed to avoid another crash but feel better knowing that I should be able to recover quickly and inexpensively next time I mess up. Dion Mills ------- PVC Spindle Nose Protector [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "indianfourrider" indianfourriderx~xxyahoo.com Date: Tue Feb 12, 2008 5:22 pm ((PST)) One of you more seasoned operators has probably done something like this before, but... Since I have a couple more milling projects and it's been a while since Murphy and Zymurgy have dropped by, I figured I needed to do something to protect the nose threads. Of course, BUYING an Atlas or SBL unit was out of the question, so off to the hardware store - not everything can be found in even the best stocked dumpster! (Pictures to accompany this scintilating narrative are in an album entitled "Nose Job") First item was a 1.5-8 TPI thread checker since my thread guage only goes down to 12 TPI and I don't have another spindle for checking fit. A steel 1 1/4 pipe coupling turned out (sorry) to be just right. Really close but close enough was close enough. The prophylactic itself would be made from 2 PVC pipe fittings. (I love PVC pipe and make all kinds of stuff from it. You should see the removable luggage rack I made for the Indian...) A 1 1/4-1 NPT bushing glued into a Schedule 40 1 1/4 coupling yielded the needed thickness and diameter. Cutting the threads on the PVC was quite a contrast from the steel. There's also a picture of an addition to the threading dial. The quadrants have been sufficient for all of the threading I've done so far, but for the milling operations the carriage serves as, I think it's the Z axis, and only four divisions don't cut it (sorry, again) I use e-Machineshop.com's free CAD software for laying out precise angles and arcs (like gaskets for an Indian) so I laid out a .875" circle and divided it into 64 segments - one full turn of the dial equals 2" travel so each mark on the sticker equals 1/32" Make a bunch of them on one sheet of paper and print actual size and Voila! A strip of 2" clear label tape to protect the face and 2-sided carpet tape on the back, cut 'em out with the Olfa compass knife and there you are. If I haven't done something worthy of a tetanus booster every 5 years, it's been pretty darn dull! Jim ------- Re: PVC Spindle Nose Protector Posted by: "azbruno" azbrunox~xxyahoo.com Date: Tue Feb 12, 2008 6:57 pm ((PST)) The first project I ever did on my Atlas 618 was to make a spindle nose protector. I used aluminum. I later discovered that it was really useful when I had Morse Taper arbor in the headstock (e.g. with my ER collet chuck). Unscrewing the nose protector forced the part out, not requiring a knock out rod. Bruno ------- Re: Handwheel modification/improvement [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "Jerry Freeman" jerryx~xxtcenet.net Date: Wed Feb 13, 2008 2:41 pm ((PST)) OK, here's what you've started. I've been annoyed at those rigid handwheel handles, wondering if anything can be done about them. I read your posts and then went to www.use-enco.com and found item number 990-3298, which is a "#10 revolving steel handle." I counted up the handles I wanted to replace and ordered four. These are chrome plated like the original handles and handwheels and about the same diameter as the existing handles, maybe 1/4 inch or so longer, with 10-24 mounting threads. Mounted, they match the original look perfectly. I had determined that the existing handles were pressed into 1/4 inch holes in the handwheels. I took off the apron handwheel, removed the handle, and enlarged the hole with a 19/64 drill. Then I turned down about two inches of 5/16" rod, mounted in a Jacob's chuck, to a diameter that could be hammered into the 19/64 inch hole, using the hole in the handwheel as my gauge to decide how small to turn the rod. I turned about an inch and then extended the rod further out from the chuck until I had as much as I wanted. I had to take off only the tiniest amount to get the right diameter. I bored a hole into the end of the rod with a #25 drill and tapped the hole for the 10-24 handle threads. With a file against the spinning rod, I tapered about 1/8" to the end so it would start into the hole in the handwheel, and I cut off a piece about 1/16" longer than needed to plug the hole. I drove the insert into the hole, ground it flush to the surface of the handwheel, cleaned up the threads with the tap and attached the handle. I repeated the steps for the tailstock handwheel, the cross slide crank and the compound rest crank. The compound rest crank had two handles the same size and close together, which I always found annoying because it was awkward to try to turn the crank holding one of the handles. So I shortened the remaining original handle and rounded and buffed the new end, which makes it easy to turn the crank with the new handle without the second handle getting in the way, but it still leaves the second handle in case it's needed for steadiness or whatever it's supposed to be there for. This gives a noticeably more comfortable feel to the way the lathe operates. I'm very pleased. Best wishes, Jerry P.S. I apologize for not having a photo to post. I went to take a picture and discovered my digital camera has died. [One dimension was corrected here per a later message from Jerry.] ------- Shop-made Taper Attachment [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "indianfourrider" indianfourriderx~xxyahoo.com Date: Wed Mar 19, 2008 9:37 am ((PDT)) Friends: In an album of the same name are some pictures of the taper attachment I made. It is loosly copied from one of the Atlas models. It's not nearly as elegant as Al's but it appears to work pretty well. I plan on using it mostly to make MT #3 toolholders for the headstock and probably some MT #2 gizmos for the tail. The first serious piece I tried after various tests is a blank for a MT #3 arbor of some kind (!) which fit right into the spindle and showed absolutely no runout. I'm pretty happy about that. Also in that ablum is a shot of the 'by-products' of that first piece. I'm going to start another thread on the subject of chip control because I'm sure everyone has their own take on the matter and I'm very interested. TIA Jim ------- Re: Shop-made Taper Attachment Posted by: "Tom Warren" mtnestx~xxhartcom.net Date: Wed Mar 19, 2008 4:51 pm ((PDT)) Hi Jim: Your taper attachment looks very nice. Do you happen to have any specifications for it? I'd like to make one for my 12x36. Thanks, Tom ------- Re: Shop-made Taper Attachment Posted by: "indianfourrider" indianfourriderx~xxyahoo.com Date: Thu Mar 20, 2008 3:54 am ((PDT)) > Your taper attachment looks inpressive. If you have detail drawings > of the attachment, I would appreciate it if you make them available. > Thanks, George Thanks for the kind words. I'll put some drawings/photos together and post them. There is also an excellent picture of another shop-made taper attachment in the "files" section. (Wish I had looked there before making mine!) Jim ------- Re: Shop-made Taper Attachment - UPDATE Posted by: "indianfourrider" indianfourriderx~xxyahoo.com Date: Sun Mar 23, 2008 6:46 pm ((PDT)) Thanks to the kind folks who gave me some feedback and requested drawings or specs. I have updated the photo album and included a CAD drawing with some of the dimensions. (Shouldn't the plural of dimension be dimentia?) If anyone has the free baby-CAD software from eMachineshop.com (with which I have no affiliation and in which I have no financial interest) I'll be happy to email you the drawing. The jig was made from what I had on hand. If you read my posts you know that really means what I've cadged from the dumpster at Smith Fastener! I think everything they use is considered standard size for cold-rolled flat bar. The three main pieces A, B & C on the drawing are 3/4 x 1 1/2. The pivot and clamp bolts are 3/8-16 x 1 1/2 socket head cap screws. The clamps holding A and B to the ways consist of a spacer made from 3/8 x 1 1/2 x 2 3/4 screwed to the underside of the supports (A & B) from the top with 12-24 x 7/8 fillester head screws; the clamp itself is 3/4 x 1 x 3 1/4 (+/- to catch the underside of the ways)drilled and tapped through the wide side 3/8-16. The clamp bolts are same socket heads as above. To securely clamp the bar in place once the desired angle is set I scribed an arc with the center at the pivot with a radius to the center of a 2" x 7 1/2" x 1/8" plate as in the drawing. The slot was cut by drilling overlapping holes and filing it smooth. Having use the jig a couple of times and re-read what I wrote to Tom, I simplified the slider and linkage and made it sturdier. The original version with roller bearings was kind of over-the-top. I guess I got carried away and wanted to see if I could do it! (The other little thing I would and may yet do over is reversing the whole shebang left-to-right. I still don't know what I was thinking putting the adjustment end behind the chuck...) ANYWAY, the slider is a channel bolted up from one scrap of the same stock as A, B & C - 3/4 x 1 1/2 about 2 3/4" long and two 3" pieces of 1/2 x 1 1/2. (I have several boxes of fillester head screws left over from various Indian projects so you'll see a lot of them! Use what ya got!) You lucky ones with real mills could make a nice one from one piece. The linkage is salvaged from version 1.0 and beefed up with a what a carpenter would call a scab. The original is a 9" piece of 3/8 x 1 with a 5" long 1/2" slot milled at one end. "Milled" is a slight exageration. Yes, I proudly posted my shop-made milling attachment, but it has its limitations... The 'workaround' was to drill the 1/2" end holes and connect them with a series of overlapping 3/8 holes. THEN put it in the miling attachment and clean it up. Still WAY easier than filing! If I had it to do again I would find a way to make it from one piece. The guide block was probably the most challenging. I'm way too cheap to buy a dovetail cutter so again with the overlapping holes and a little 1/8" ball-nose end mill I had and a lot of luck I got a servicable piece. I fitted it with brass plugs under the screws to protect the cross slide. All that can be obviated by drilling and tapping two holes in the back of the saddle and mounting the guide there. I already had the cross slide apart to deal with some other issues so I went that route. None of the above is really critical. I made it all up as I went along, trying to figure out how to use what I had on hand. The basic design is copied almost directly from the "hobbyist' Atlas version. Certainly there are other improvements/refinements that can be made and I hope it is adaptable to other materials and machines. The important thing is setting the taper, either by 'included angle' or inches-per-foot (or inch). The Atlas unit has a pointer and two scales, one calibrated for each method. I saw another shop-made taper jig for sale a while back on a well-known auction site that included a dial indicator to 'insure accurate tapers.' Since I want mainly to make Morse Taper arbors and toolholders it made sense to me to be able accurately to set inches-per-foot. Hence the dial indicator and the clamp to hold it in place. If the taper is going to be accurate, the arm has to be dead parallel to the ways before setting the angle. The pictures show one way to do that. The indexing pin is within about 5 thou and I use my .0005 indicator to get it dead-on. Once the arm is dead parallel the contact point of the indicator needs to be at at set distance from the pivot, preferably 12" or 24" to yield taper in IPF. The CAD drawing shows this clearly, I hope. With the indicator zeroed and the point 12" from the center of the pivot the arm in moved until the indicator reads HALF of the desired taper: #3 MT = .60235/inch so the indicator needs to read just on the fat side of .301 (unless you have a better indicator than me!) If you set the contact point 24" from the pivot center then the indicator should read the full IPF number. (Sorry if the is redundant to the experienced hands out there but I had several "D'oh!" moments figuring this all out.) Well there you have it. Hope someone can make use of this. I'm sure there are better ways of doing a lot of it. That's the beaauty to me of the group. I learn something everytime I read my mail. Sorry if I rambled. Don't encourage me, you know how I can be... Regards, Jim ------- Re: Shop-made Taper Attachment - UPDATE Posted by: "indianfourrider" indianfourriderx~xxyahoo.com Date: Wed Mar 26, 2008 6:16 am ((PDT)) Friends, I have posted a folder in the "Files" section with the CAD drawing, CAD file, some of the pictures and an edited version of my earlier long-winded post. I have deleted the photo album. Thanks, all! Jim ------- Re: Replacement dials [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "mertnedp" pdentremx~xxforterie.com Date: Tue May 13, 2008 2:11 pm ((PDT)) Robert Berry wrote: > Can someone advise me of a source for replacement dials for the > Craftsman 12 inch lathe 101.07403? Mine have gotten rather worn and > hard to read. I made my own replacement dials. A nice little project for a weekend. See some pictures at http://wrx-now.tripod.com. Click on the Atlas picture or the Atlas title to get to the pictures. The new dials are just shy of 2" in diameter. What a difference when looking at the markings of the new one versus the old dials! ------- Re: Replacement dials Posted by: "James Walther" indianfourriderx~xxyahoo.com Date: Tue May 13, 2008 2:25 pm ((PDT)) How did you incise the markings on the dial? Nice piece of work! Jim ------- Re: Replacement dials Posted by: "mertnedp" pdentremx~xxforterie.com Date: Wed May 21, 2008 2:32 pm ((PDT)) Thanks. Using the diameter of the 3 jaw chuck that I was using to hold the new dial blanks, I used a drawing program (ie Autocad) and simply made an array of 100 lines that equaled the circumference and printed on a sheet of paper. In my case it took more than 1 sheet. Using a letter-sized sheet I cut the sheet into strips and put two together to get enough to go around the chuck. Now remember that the sheet has a thickness as well. You have to add that in as well or the divisions will not line up when you wrap the chuck. Second time was better! Using the same setup as below. I then scribed a line on the side of the chuck mounting plate at each of the divisions. Therefore I now have a chuck that is permanently marked with 100 spaces for future projects! Make up a wire to use as a pointer and mount where it works for you. It will line up with the new lines on the chuck, thus indexing the dial blank. I then scribed the lines onto the dial blank. Use a sharp tool set on its side. A threading tool is what I used with a sharp point. After all the lines were marked I stamped the final numbers using number stamps. In making the lines you have to pass the tool a couple of times to get enough depth. Any other questions? Hope this helps! ------- Re: Replacement dials Posted by: "j.c.gerberx~xxtbwil.ch" Date: Tue May 13, 2008 2:39 pm ((PDT)) Well done, but what I almost prefer your cross feed control assembly. Very nice and practical idea. Jean-Claude, Switzerland www.homestead.com/turnandmill ------- Re: Replacement dials Posted by: "mertnedp" pdentremx~xxforterie.com Date: Wed May 21, 2008 2:35 pm ((PDT)) Thank you. That cross feed control came right out of MetalWorking Book One. The Best of Projects in Metal. Pg76 By Richard Torgerson. ------- Re: Mystery 4 jaw chuck [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "speedphoto300" speedphoto300x~xxyahoo.com Date: Sun Jul 6, 2008 6:51 pm ((PDT)) "azbruno" wrote: > My question is... did the 1"-10 spindle coincide with the move to > Timken bearings? I'd guess not, but how soon before or after? -Bruno Good question, Bruno. And until recently I was sure I knew the answer. Conventional wisdom is that from 1937 until 1958 there were two branches to the Atlas 618 tree, the Atlas version had Timken bearings from the start and the version they made for Sears had plain bearings. Both had 1"-8 spindles. Around 1958 Sears dropped the plain bearing model and went to Timken bearings; from that point on the only difference between Sears and Atlas was the label. Simultaneously, the spindles went to 1"-10. That's the story I had heard and believed, given the evidence. Recently, however, a 618 showed up on the SF Bay Craigslist that had a plain bearing headstock, but an Atlas bed, nameplate and all. My feeling is that this is a replacement bed with a Craftsman headstock on it, but real info on all of this is hard to find. As time goes on I doubt more and more. Joe ------- Re: Mystery 4 jaw chuck Posted by: "speedphoto300" speedphoto300x~xxyahoo.com Date: Mon Jul 7, 2008 7:23 am ((PDT)) "Joe R" wrote: > Here's a site that has a good write up on the 618 and most all other > brands of lathes. > http://www.lathes.co.uk/craftsman/page5.html > To answer Bruno's question it seems it was 1" x 10 from the start???? Most people here are familiar with Tony's site, and are also familiar with the errors that show up there. It's next to impossible to get it all right. On the page you point to he says that the spindle was 1"-10 from the start but I've yet to see a Craftsman plain bearing 6 inch lathe with anything but 1"-8. On http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/page3.html he mentions the circa 1958 changeover to 1"-10, and this coincides with the Craftsman change to Timken bearings. Unfourtunately, Atlas has no historical records with this sort of detail. It's left to detective work and imagination, and opinion. Joe ------- Re: When was the last year the Craftsman 12" was sold? [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "don ryan" dieman222000x~xxyahoo.com Date: Fri Nov 7, 2008 8:34 pm ((PST)) The last Atlas 12 lathe was built on 3-6-1981. I was the one of the people that assembled the lathe. I can't tell you when the last one was sold as I was laid off after this and I know that there was still lathes in the warehouse when I left. All of the remaining parts were put into the spare parts inventory at this time so no more lathes where built after this date. Also as of this date, the Sears contract had been cancelled. ------- Parts may become less available from Clausing [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "pflatlyne" pflatlynex~xxyahoo.com Date: Fri Nov 14, 2008 1:04 pm ((PST)) I emailed Clausing regarding parts and this is the information I received (edited for easy reading). > Normally we would make the items here in the warehouse, but we had to do cut backs and we closed the warehouse down. And its getting difficult to find a vendor that will do that parts for us. So as of right now we are still trying to get parts made. But some of these are just so old that they are just becoming unavailable. Have a wonderful day, Amanda Wakeman Customer Service ext 317 811 Eisenhower Dr S. P.O. BOX 877 Goshen, IN 46527-0877 Phone: 800-535-6553 or 574-533-0371 Fax: 574-533-0403 Web Site: www.clausing-industrial.com We accept Visa, Mastercard or American Express, or we can ship UPS-COD (within the continental United States only) - please note this is not a secure link. < ------- Re: Parts may become less available from Clausing Posted by: "pflatlyne" pflatlynex~xxyahoo.com Date: Fri Nov 14, 2008 2:51 pm ((PST)) "Joe R" wrote: > Just this week I ordered and received 5 different parts for my mid > 1950's (fifty years young) Atlas/Clausing 8525 milling machine and > they had them all?? Things seem ok for now,and of course there are parts that don't seem to have been available for awhile, but if what she said was correct, I read it as they closed the facility that they were using to make the parts and are outsourcing it,and having trouble finding people to do it. If I read that right, then more parts may start becoming unavailable. OF course many of those parts can be made ourselves. ------- Re: Parts may become less available from Clausing Posted by: "Brett Jones" brettx~xx5foot2.com Date: Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:04 pm ((PST)) It was my understanding that all the cast iron parts have not been available for a long time. Brett Jones ------- [Seeking identification of a particular Atlas made lathe] Re: newbie from minne-soda [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "donjsjr" donjsjrx~xxyahoo.com Date: Sun Nov 16, 2008 12:48 pm ((PST)) > the model is "TH 42" that means what?? th = thread?? 42 = length? > the sears site won't recognize anything i put in ... dddon ------- Re: newbie from minne-soda Posted by: "John Ruge" jrugex~xxmsn.com Date: Sun Nov 16, 2008 1:22 pm ((PST)) You may be able to learn something from this site: http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/ At least it tells you what the H & 42 stand for. John ------- Re: newbie from minne-soda Posted by: "Joe R" jromasx~xxcolumbus.rr.com Date: Sun Nov 16, 2008 1:37 pm ((PST)) I just found this on Tony's site http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/ that I listed earlier. Model numbers can be used to decode the original specification of a lathe: a "V" suffix indicated a vertical countershaft whist the letter "H" showed a horizontal drive system was used; if these letters were combined with a "T", as in TV-36, this showed taper rollers were used in the headstock. Digits after the letter(s) indicated the length of the bed, but not the capacity between centres; thus, "TV-48" would have been a vertical countershaft machine with taper roller bearings and a 48-inch long bed; the bed lengths of 36", 42", 48" and 54" gave between-centres capacities of: 18", 24", 30" and 36" respectively. After 1947 production costs were cut by simplifying the range: just two bed lengths (42" and 54") were offered, the option of the vertical countershaft was discontinued and (sensibly for this class of machine) roller bearings fitted as standard to the headstock. These lathes were coded TH-42 and TH-54 for changewheel screwcutting and QC-42 and QC-54 when fitted with a quick-change screwcutting gearbox. T= tapered roller bearings H=horizontal drive 42=42" bed length. Joe R. ------- Re: newbie from minne-soda Posted by: "Jon Elson" elsonx~xxpico-systems.com Date: Sun Nov 16, 2008 1:49 pm ((PST)) donjsjr wrote: > the model is "TH 42" that means what?? th = thread?? 42 = length? > the sears site won't recognize anything i put in ... dddon T = Timken tapered roller bearings H means countershaft moves horizontally to tighten the belts 42 is the full length of the bed, in inches. Sears knows this lathe as a 101.xxxxx number. Every change to the lathe, as little as changing a washer from steel to fiber, will get the lathe a new model number, so there are quite a number of model numbers for essentially the same lathe. The standard models are either 42 or 54" bed length (corresponds to 24 and 36" between centers). If it bears a TH42 model number anywhere, then it is NOT a Sears/Craftsman, but an Atlas lathe, sold directly by Atlas Press Co. Jon ------- Quick Change [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "ChrisandJudy" chrisandjudyx~xxcableone.net Date: Sun Dec 7, 2008 2:04 pm ((PST)) Hi, I just got a very late 12 inch C/A cabinet model lathe. This will replace my very old but good 12 inch change gear lathe. The label on the quick change says slide gear in for the very coarsest threads and out for all of the rest. My question is, what is the slide gear? Thanks Chris ------- Re: Quick Change Posted by: "LocoGear" jjohnsonx~xxlocogear.com Date: Sun Dec 7, 2008 4:25 pm ((PST)) Chris, This is described on pages 124-126 of the manual. If you do not have a manual, get in touch with Clausing and order one. They still sell them. Basically the sliding gear is in the gear train and is attached to the harp. This allows the gear to be disengaged from the gear train and moved to either the inside gear or the outside gear that runs the quick change gear box. It is directly under the double gear that is on the shaft that rotates when you change the direction of the lead screw. The Slide Gear will either engage the larger (Inside) or smaller (Outside) gear on that shaft. I have never needed to cut a thread courser than 8tpi, so I have not had to make this change and have just left it in the out position. John D.L. Johnson 3879 Woods Walk Blvd. Lake Worth, FL 33467-2359 www.LocoGear.com ------- Re: Quick Change Posted by: "bill phelps" sweetwaterent2000x~xxyahoo.com Date: Sun Dec 7, 2008 5:49 pm ((PST)) When you use the sliding gear, you must have the double gear that has a steel washer to keep the sliding gear from moving while the gear train is engaged. ------- WAS Re:Howdy, New 12x36 Member NOW: Lead Screw Bearing [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "John Dugan" duganjx~xxgmail.com Date: Mon Dec 8, 2008 10:48 am ((PST)) Thanks to the group for all the responses. So despite my misunderstanding at the outset, and the breakaway part being a useful feature, there does seem to be some consensus that making it out of zamac and not steel was also a bit of a cost saving measure. So moving forward making your own replacement out of steel, with a bronze bushing and this breakaway feature: www.bellsouthpwp.com/t/h/thib9564/Atlas_Lathe_Leadscrew_Bearings.htm would seem to be a nice upgrade. Then again this could a moot point if my leadscrew is driven by a ~110 oz-in stepper motor that would stall at the first sign of trouble. John ------- NOTE TO FILE: Make sure you visit the above site. Besides having a plan to make a much safer break-away leadscrew right bearing, the home page's Atlas section has many more fixes and tips for Atlas lathes. ------- Re: Atlas- Manual of Lathe Operation [atlas_cratsman] Posted by: "anthrhodesx~xxaol.com" Date: Mon Dec 29, 2008 10:59 pm ((PST)) In a message dated Mon Dec 29, 2008 conv73ford writes: > I'm pretty sure my lathe was made around 1964. It is a 12 x 36, I was looking for info on basic lathe operation for example: lathe setup, taper attachments, lathe components. < Matt: Sounds like the latest edition would be a perfect fit. Get one from Clausing, it won't be dog eared or have odd notes in the margin and it will encourage Clausing to continue to service these out of production machines. It also won't support copyright pirates. On a completely different subject, here's a throw away that I mentioned in a message on gears for the 6" lathe but it also applies to the larger ones. Most makes of lathes have a changeable stud gear, but the Atlas built lathes have a dual gear limiting your options to 32 or 16 teeth. Ah, but not so! It turns out that you can remove the dual gear, slide a change gear bushing in its place, then install a 32 to mesh with the tumbler gears and any other change gear in the "front" position. This ability allows greater variation in change gear setups. If you're only interested in what the manual or the gear charts and tables say ignore this, but if you're interested in maximizing your gear train options this is a useful trick to know about. Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Oil Cup Removal [atlas_cratsman] Posted by: "mccracken67" dsburix~xxhotmail.com Date: Thu Jan 8, 2009 10:40 am ((PST)) Has anyone ever removed the oil cups located above the timken bearings? I tried twisting a little bit with a pliers and a rag but don't want to damage them. I am restoring my Craftsman lathe and want to give it the nicest paint job I can. I just bought it this summer and have no experience turning metal at all but have always wanted to get into it. I figured that the best way to learn my lathe was to start by tearing it down. ------- Re: Oil Cup Removal Posted by: "Brett Jones" brettx~xx5foot2.com Date: Thu Jan 8, 2009 1:01 pm ((PST)) If you want the cups out only for paint, I'd recommend taping them up and using a razor to create a clean paint line. I once removed a pair out of a 12" craftsman headstock that was damaged. I used heat to expand the casting, unsuccessfully. I also tried various methods of pulling them out (without crushing the cups), all failing. In the end I used a cut off wheel to split the casting at the cups. If you need to replace the cups, McMaster Carr sells new cups that will fit. Brett Jones ------- Re: Oil Cup Removal Posted by: "bill phelps" sweetwaterent2000x~xxyahoo.com Date: Thu Jan 8, 2009 5:57 pm ((PST)) I made a small set of wedges and used them the same as you would remove a chuck from a taper. It worked very good and did not damage them; the wedges go in from both sides and oppose each other and you tap them very gently. ------- Re: Oil Cup Removal Posted by: "Scott Henion" shenionx~xxshdesigns.org Date: Thu Jan 8, 2009 6:44 pm ((PST)) Maybe turn a small rod with a lip on the end the same diameter as the inside. Then center drill. Drill most of the way through bigger and then tap. Cut a slot in the end. The screw would the force the end bigger. If you can't get a lip, then knurl the tool. Or do the same for clamping on the outside. A bar drilled almost all the way through to leave a lip. Then cut in half lengthwise and use a bolt to clamp together. Either would give you something you can grab on to. The wedge idea might work too. Scott G. Henion Stone Mountain, GA Consultant SHDesigns http://www.shdesigns.org ------- Re: Oil Cup Removal Posted by: "jmartin957x~xxaol.com" Date: Thu Jan 8, 2009 7:41 pm ((PST)) > Or do the same for clamping on the outside. A bar drilled Not a bad idea - sort of like the broken cartridge case removal tool used with, say, the M1. Fingers compress when inserted, but the central rod is wedge-shaped and expands them when you try to withdraw the tool. My guess, though, is that if he taps gently on each side of the Gits fitting using a soft drift it will loosen enough to be removed. New Gits oilers in the standard sizes are available from most bearing suppliers or by mail. John Martin ------- Re: Oil Cup Removal Posted by: "Scott Henion" shenionx~xxshdesigns.org Date: Thu Jan 8, 2009 7:46 pm ((PST)) And also from Clausing or Sears. HomeShopsupply has some also for the smaller lathes. With them so available, it might be worthwhile to order replacements and then you have more options as you don't really care about saving the old ones. ------- Re: Oil Cup Removal Posted by: "Jon Elson" elsonx~xxpico-systems.com Date: Thu Jan 8, 2009 6:59 pm ((PST)) The tools for crimping electrical crimp connectors are often quite good for this type job. Jon ------- Re: Oil Cup Removal Posted by: "Michael Fagan" woodworker88x~xxgmail.com Date: Thu Jan 8, 2009 7:09 pm ((PST)) Mine was already crushed, so I pulled it out with a pair of pliers and drove in a new one with a soft-faced hammer. If you are just painting, I'd leave them in place to keep debris out of the bearings. ------- Re: Oil Cup Removal Posted by: "mf205i" mf205ix~xxyahoo.com Date: Fri Jan 9, 2009 12:20 am ((PST)) Put the solid end of a close fitting drill bit down the center to protect them from crushing and then grab them low and lever them out with a pair of dykes side cutters -- wire cutters. Mike ------- Re: Oil Cup Removal Posted by: "mccracken67" dsburix~xxhotmail.com Date: Fri Jan 9, 2009 8:39 am ((PST)) Thanks Mike, I used the drill bit/side cutter method and it worked great. I did use a pliers to loosen the cups by twisting them side-to-side first. I took all four cups out and didn't damage any of them! Thanks for the advice everyone. Darin ------- Gib [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "southern_chinook" southern_chinookx~xxyahoo.ca Date: Wed Feb 18, 2009 3:04 pm ((PST)) I just received some repair parts from Clausing for my newly aquired Atlas 618 and was surprised to find that the Gib I ordered came in plastic. I had one that I figured was bent and needed to be replaced... any problems with having just one plastic. Pros & cons, comments? (Man are parts ever expensive from Clausing, especially when you have been given only Canadian money to play with!) Don ------- Re: Gib Posted by: "James Walther" indianfourriderx~xxyahoo.com Date: Wed Feb 18, 2009 3:13 pm ((PST)) The gib on the cross slide on my c.1979 Atlas 12x36 is plastic. When I joined this august group over a year ago I asked the same question. The only time I have had any problems that I might be able to attribute to/blame on the plastic gib has been when milling with a home-made attachment that puts a lot of extra stress on the cross slide. Jim ------- Re: Gib Posted by: "mondosmetals" jwreyx~xxusa.net Date: Wed Feb 18, 2009 3:37 pm ((PST)) Pros: Less wear on the dovetailed slides costs less to manufacture (and purchase) Cons: Distorts and cracks more easily under stress leading to greater inaccuracies. Wears faster than hardened steel gib. Why not make your own from steel? Enco (www.use-enco.com) has hardened ground steel bar stock, 1/8 x 1/2 in 18" lengths for about $5. You can make two or three, perhaps as many as four gibs from one length. You can cut it to length with a hack saw, put a milling cutter in the three-jaw chuck and use a milling attachment or even a small tilting table and small milling vise clamped to the cross slide to bevel the edges while cutting it to the required width, then put in the adjusting screw divots, dress the edges with a file and a honing stone, and voila! Instant new gibs! Just clean thoroughly then oil upon installation. I am surprised at how many people buy parts for a machine that is perfectly capable of making most of it's own replacement parts - if the owner makes note of what is wearing and makes the replacements before the machine becomes crippled. raymond ------- Re: Gib Posted by: "jmartin957x~xxaol.com" Date: Wed Feb 18, 2009 5:21 pm ((PST)) > Really? Hardened steel for the gibs? I'd never thought about it > before, but it seems unhardened would be better to avoid additional > wear to the slide (not to mentioned that the machining of the gib > would be easier). There is some confusion regarding "hardened" vs. "hardening", I think. The ground flat stock that Enco and others sell is almost invariably sold soft. It is tool steel that contains enough carbon that it may be hardened - thus the designations oil hardening, water hardening or air hardening. They do also carry a low carbon ground flat stock which would require carburizing or nitriding to harden. I'm not so sure that hard gibs would be a bad thing, though. If highly polished, they shouldn't wear the mating cast iron surfaces much. The last thing you would want would be a very soft gib, as it would allow dirt and other grit to embed itself in the gib surface - turning it into a lap. John Martin ------- Re: Gib Posted by: "LocoGear" jjohnsonx~xxlocogear.com Date: Wed Feb 18, 2009 5:25 pm ((PST)) Don, I made a new set of gibs out of brass. Much easier to machine than steel. The improvement was quite striking over the original plastic gibs. I have a 12x36 Craftsman. John D.L. Johnson 3879 Woods Walk Blvd. Lake Worth, FL 33467-2359 www.LocoGear.com [and in a later message] I could feel the difference hand feeding the cross slide while cutting with less chatter and a smother finish. A more solid feel to the cutting. I could take larger cuts after the brass gibs were put in as opposed to the original plastic ones. By that I mean going from say a .010" cut to a .020" or .025" cut. I have also used my milling attachment and could see a big difference in milling. Things seemed to be much more rigid. Cutting just sounded better. I would equate the difference as about the same order of magnitude as when I upgraded from the old lantern tool post to a quick change tool post. I did this about ten years ago to the cross slide and compound and have not had to adjust the gibs much over the years. They seem to hold up well without much wear. I use lots of way oil. ------- Re: Gib Posted by: "Russ Kepler" russx~xxkepler-eng.com Date: Thu Feb 19, 2009 6:39 am ((PST)) On Thursday 19 February 2009 LocoGear wrote: > As I understand it, the originals were plastic on all Atlas and Craftsman lathes. I would say that both steel and brass would give equally better results than plastic. < Nope, the originals look like cold rolled steel. When I made a new one I splurged and made it from low carbon gage plate. I think the gib needs more stiffness than a plastic will provide to 'spread out' the pressure from the gib screws. If it's not stiff enough you'll basically have a point contact in 4 places on the gib instead of contact the length of the gib. (Yes, I know that steel is really silly putty in disguise and will end up with some of the aspects of the 4 point contact, but they will be much wider than the plastic gib). ------- Re: Gib Posted by: "Russ Kepler" russx~xxkepler-eng.com Date: Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:54 am ((PST)) On 19 February Jim Ash wrote: > Isn't there some kind of rule that says you shouldn't use the same two metals for bearing surfaces or it will gall? I don't know if steel and cast iron are close enough to be considered the same for these purposes. I'd be inclined to go with brass. < In some cases you can get galling, particularly stainless steel on stainless steel. But cast iron on itself is very nice, pretty much anything on cast iron is pretty good. If you really want to have some fun aluminum bronze would make a nice gib, the only real problem would be in finding some the right size and flat enough to make a consistent contact. That's why I went with ground flat low carbon stock, it was to diimension and very straight. ------- Re: Bull Gear Index Pin [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "mondosmetals" jwreyx~xxusa.net Date: Sun Mar 1, 2009 6:53 pm ((PST)) John wrote: > > I don't think the pin which allows me to index the spindle is working the way it's supposed to. There are 60 indexing holes on the bull gear of my 12X36 Atlas QCG lathe I think the number of my lathe is 1014470. I'm guessing without getting my lazy butt out of my chair and going to look. I can't move the pin into any of those holes. The pin is there but it seems to be stuck or something. I'm wondering if the pin is spring activated or does it just push in an out of the holes without any spring action. Scott Henion wrote: > Mine is real tight. I think there is a spring + ball that pushes up from the bottom. Put some penetrating oil in the hole above the pin and turn it with pliers. It should work loose. As said by others, it is a _locating_ pin not a locking pin. Just used to locate the spindle. To lock the spindle, use the back gear. Right: There is a small coil spring topped with a steel ball in the bottom of the vertical hole under the index pin. There are no detents on the pin unless some owner has taken the pin out and cut a lateral groove. The purpose of the spring loaded ball is to provide resistance so the index pin doesn't slide into the bull gear solely from operational vibration. A tapered pin passes through the index pin perpendicular to its axis on the bull gear side of the headstock casting to provide raised bumps so the index pin can't be pulled completely out by accident. If the index pin is real tight then it probably needs cleaning and oil. But being tight isn't necessarily a bad thing: It can't vibrate into the bull gear while the lathe is running and destroy the bull gear index holes while beating itself up in the process. (Mostly destroy the index holes in the bull gear.) If it is real loose then the sping is either rusted to dust or loaded with varnish from many years of use of improper oil, or filled with grinding swarf so fine it gets into places you didn't know existed. If you were to service this mechanism you first find which end of the tapered pin is the larger, then rotate the index pin so this is at the bottom. Now tap the tapered pin out using a very small drift and a light hammer. While covering both the hole on the bull wheel side of the casting and the vertical hole above the index pin, pull the index pin out. Watch that the steel ball doesn't roll out and disappear under the bench! Using a crooked mechanic's pick fish out first the ball then the spring. Clean the parts you just removed - pipe cleaners are handy for cleaning the spring hole. Putting this all back together isn't any more difficult. A tiny drop of sewing machine oil in the spring hole first will keep the spring and the ball lubricated for another generation. Drop the spring down the hole, perhaps using a wooden dowel or the mechanic's pick to guide it home. Cover the index pin hole on the bull gear side of the casting then roll the ball in from the other end and use the pick to nudge it into position on top of the spring. Slide the index pin in as far as the ball then use a small wooden dowel or small drift inserted from the top to gently push the ball down while continuing to slide in the index pin over the ball. Once the end of the index pin catches over the ball you can withdraw the dowel or drift and push the index pin home. Rotate the pin until you see the larger end of the through hole on top. Install the tapered pin assuring it appears at both ends of its hole and you are done. The entire process can be done faster than it took me to type this up. Enjoy! raymond ------- Re: 618 cross slide nut [atlas618lathe] Posted by: "Jim" mosher-racingx~xxsbcglobal.net Date: Fri Mar 13, 2009 4:23 pm ((PDT)) "Jim" wrote: > > Where can I purchase a cross slide nut for my 618... Thanks "azbruno" wrote: > Two sources I know of... > 1. Clausing 800-535-6553 > I think they are about $25 plus shipping there. > 2. There's a guy selling on eBay who makes them. The item number is 290301189414, his ID is tross96586. I've never bought from him, but haven't heard anything bad. Bruno < Thanks for the info. Jim ------- Re: 618 cross slide nut Posted by: "stinson108_1" stinson108_1x~xxyahoo.com Date: Fri Mar 13, 2009 8:11 pm ((PDT)) Hi all, I have purchased the nut made by tross96586. He seems like a nice enough guy to deal with again. So far I'm happy with it as it significantly tightened up the lash in my cross-slide. As a caveat, I had to finish machine the nut to fit my cross- slide because the post (for lack of the proper name) on the nut was too large to fit up into the cross-slide. It wasn't plug-and-play but it wasn't all that hard to put it in the 4-jaw, dial it in and shrink it :) I would buy it again if I needed it -- it's cheaper than the ACME tap so for me it was a no brainer. Ian ------- 618 Gears (Was Re: Value of Atlas change gear set) [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "anthrhodesx~xxaol.com" Date: Fri Mar 20, 2009 10:47 pm ((PDT)) In a message dated Wed Mar 18, 2009, Donald Pittman writes: > I sure wish I could come across a reasonable(good deal) like that for > my 618...I didn't get a single change gear with my aquisition. When I picked up a Craftsman 101.07301 in the early '90s it came with only a few gears, don't remember which ones just now but probably for a moderately fine feed. This was before I had web access and eBay access so my basic approach was to acquire the necessary gears from Clausing and Sears. Firstly I determined what a standard complete set of gears included and which ones I would need to fill out the set. Then I did some personal analysis. I decided that it was important to be able to cut the pitch of the spindle threads for chuck mounting, which on my lathe was 8 TPI, so filling out those requirements was my number one priority. Secondly I felt that fine feeds were a high priority so the gears for those pitches were my next priority. At some point this reduced the number of gears to fill out the set to a small enough count that I bought the remaining missing gears. Since that time I've added several duplications to add flexibility. In actually purchasing the gears I got a price list from Clausing, and went to Sears' parts department and checked gear availability and prices. With that information I literally purchased the gears in which I was interested at the moment from the less expensive of the two sources for each individual gear. Now, with the Internet and other facilities, there are many more sources available to you. You don't have to buy all the gears at once; set some priorities. For my 8 TPI the chart specifies two 32s, two 64s, a steel spacer and you need an extra spacer or gear to fill out the leadscrew. If your 618 has a 10 TPI spindle thread and you want to follow the same principle, the chart specifies one 32, one 40, two 64s and a steel spacer, and again you'll need either another spacer or gear to fill out the leadscrew. Any other thoughts on your priorities I'll leave to you and allow you to make up your own "needs" list. By the way, I find it a little hard to believe that you had zero change gears. Usually you would find one or two on the leadscrew and you might have one or two on the banjo. As reference, the complete standard gear train for any auto-feed on an Atlas-built 6" lathe is: Spindle gear Tumbler plate Forward and reverse tumbler gears 16-32 gear at center of tumbler plate Banjo complete with mounting bolt Gears 20, 24, 32, 32, 36, 40, 44, 46, 48, 52, 54, 56, 64, 64 Two change gear stud assemblies Two steel spacers (I think) It's worth having one or two extra change gear stud assemblies and one or two extra steel spacers plus any additional gears. A 38 would allow cutting 19 TPI exactly. A 50 would allow setting a gear train to use the lathe to index 100 lines to create micrometer dials, and so on. Hope this is helpful. Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- Re: acme 3/4-10 Left Hand thread want to borrow [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "Jon Elson" elsonx~xxpico-systems.com Date: Wed Mar 25, 2009 11:56 am ((PDT)) ted wrote: > I need to make a cross slide nut its acme 3/4-10 Left Hand thread id like to borrow a tap. will be happy to pay shipping both ways and even some rent on tap if need be. just cant see having to pay 190.00 for a one use item. < I made a replacement Atlas cross-slide nut, which is maybe 1/2" major diameter, IIRC. That was just a bit tricky. You should be able to cut a 3/4" Acme nut pretty easily on the lathe. (You DO have an Atlas lathe, or why would you be here?) It should take about half an hour to make up an Acme threading tool if this is your first time, and half an hour to cut the thread. When you get close, you test the fit of the leadscrew in the nut until it is just right! Jon ------- Re: acme 3/4-10 Left Hand thread want to borrow Posted by: "Darren Dean" we4212x~xxgmail.com Date: Wed Mar 25, 2009 12:05 pm ((PDT)) Make one? You are using a threaded bar, do you have some spare? Make a tap out of it; it only has to cut leaded bronze and only once at that. ------- Re: DP of the Craftsman gears [atlas618lathe group] Posted by: "anthrhodesx~xxaol.com" Date: Tue Apr 21, 2009 8:09 pm ((PDT)) On 4/20/2009, Antonio Majer writes: > I have just start studying the way the gears are classified, and I'm trying now to recognize the change gears of my Craftsman 12'' lathe. If I'm not wrong they are 24DP, are they? What's their pressure angle? In general is there a way to measure it? < Antonio: If you have an Atlas or Craftsman 101 model 12" lathe the gears are 16 DP, 14-1/2 degree pressure angle. If you have a 6" the numbers are 24 DP, 14-1/2 degree pressure angle. Regarding pressure angle, there are gear gauges, just as there are thread gauges, or you could use a gear cutter of the appropriate type as a substitute gear gauge. Otherwise, if you're not familiar with the differences it's not easy to identify which you have. Aside from the basic question, all Atlas manufactured gears are 14-1/2 degree pressure angle. Anthony Berkeley, Calif. ------- closing business [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "Earl Bower" earl.bower1x~xxverizon.net Date: Sat May 30, 2009 6:37 am ((PDT)) Just want to let you all know that at the end of this year I will be closing the business. I will be doing what I have stock and castings for in the shop and will be posting them to the web site until October 29th of this year (when the web site is due to renew). I will post a quick email when items are ready. I will not take any orders for the next two or three months for the cross slides or faceplates, from MLA. I will post when I decide to machine them again or not. It is time for me to retire and do machining for myself. I am starting a personal web site and will post it when it is up and running. I would like to thank all my customers in the group for their business. Earl Bower www.bowermachineandtool.com ------- Re: 618 CrossFeed Handle [atlas618lathe] Posted by: "Mike" oldtoolx~xxfvi.net Date: Tue Jun 9, 2009 6:38 am ((PDT)) > I was wondering, if anyone knows where to obtain a cross feed handle > for a 618? Make one. The most basic is a piece of flat stock for the body with turned handles screwed to the ends. Mike ------- Re: 618 CrossFeed Handle Posted by: "chiphead42" MooseBakerx~xxwebtv.net Date: Tue Jun 9, 2009 6:04 pm ((PDT)) I used one for a mini lathe (grizzly or enco), had to cut key with a saw blade. It's right size, works good. You may also need to shorten the key. chiphead42 ------- Re: 618 CrossFeed Handle Posted by: "Hank" n1ltvx~xxyahoo.com Date: Wed Jun 10, 2009 9:28 am ((PDT)) It's a pretty nice little project to make one, even if it's just temporary until you find a factory made one. Hank ------- cross-feed handle [atlas618lathe] Posted by: "John Bump" johnbumpx~xxgmail.com Date: Wed Jun 10, 2009 7:35 am ((PDT)) I just made one -- my second -- for my Atlas. The first was a piece of 1/8" flat stock with holes drilled through and a keyway cut with a saw; the handle thickness was roughly 1/3 of the key length so I had to make a bushing that sits beside the handle, with a keyway cut in it. The second one that I just finished, I cut a conventional ballcrank-design handle out of steel, about 2mm thinner than the length of the original woodruff key, and am substituting a new key that fits it correctly. The keys on both the cross and compound are really long, much longer than I think they need to be. ------- cross-slide crank handle pictures [atlas618lathe] Posted by: "smellsofbikes" johnbumpx~xxgmail.com Date: Thu Jun 11, 2009 5:33 pm ((PDT)) I don't quite understand how to use yahoo groups folders. I also prefer flickr because I can put extensive commentary on the photos (and even have comments linked into the photos so they'll pop up when you point at a relevant part of the picture, though that's a pain to link to.) I read this newsgroup via email, text-only, so I'm just including locations, not inline URL's (because they're enormously long and spammy.) So my lathe arrived with a broken-off cross-slide handle. I built this first: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3643/3618316812_b13f769e8a_b.jpg It's a piece of 1/4" thick, 3/4" wide CRS with holes drilled on 1" centers. That's the wrong dimension, but I didn't have one to start with so I just guessed. It should be just about 3/4" between centers. I drilled the larger hole 5/16" and cut in a slot with a jeweler's saw for the woodruff key; I drilled the smaller to 3/8" and pressed in a couple of bearings I had, and used a machine screw as a handle. Since the woodruff key is more than twice as thick as this bit of metal, I made a shim by slotting a 3/8" nut and drilling out the threads to 5/16". It worked for long enough. I used *that* to make a ballcrank. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3402/3618316814_5d40a7c40d_b.jpg Sorry it's fuzzy. Lathe-cut between centers from a piece of 3/4" scrap. I'd intended to cut actual spheres but the radius cutter I designed and made, made me realize that designing and fabricating a good radius cutter is trickier than I thought. So this is just eyeballed. If you do this, cross-drill first, because it's hard to get everything lined up well on a doubly convex surface. The 6-32 screw screws into the tapped hole in the bellcrank; the brass is drilled and tapped internally, and turned externally to the diameter of a #1 drillbit. The steel knob (incomplete) is drilled internally to a #1 drillbit with the last 5mm drilled to 1/4", for the screw head to capture. It works pretty well. It was very difficult to cut something this thick with a jeweler's saw. Use something bigger than #4, use beeswax to keep from binding, and don't try to cut the 90 degree angles at the bottom in one go. Clean up with a tiny file. Assembled: http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3356/3618316824_e7c1c3b649_b.jpg ------- Re: QCTP Question [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "Jon Elson" elsonx~xxpico-systems.com Date: Thu Aug 6, 2009 7:11 pm ((PDT)) James Rice wrote: > Jon, what model is your Atlas 12"? Mine is a 101-07403 Craftsman from about 1947 and the tool post has no hump on it. Mine is flat across the top with an almost 1" drop down to the back of the compound. My 6" has a hump at the back of the t-slot as you describe. There seem to be a lot of variations on Atlas-Craftsman lathes over the years. < I no longer have the Craftsman lathe. I think it was a 101.28910, 12x36 with QC. I have moved up to a 15" Sheldon R15-6 toolroom lathe. It is very advanced, weighs about 3500 Lbs., has an 80-speed QC box and a DRO. It also has a 2.25" spindle through hole and a D1-6 spindle mount (camlock). It is a totally different sort of machine from an Atlas, no sign of vibration or chatter, EVER, even on insanely difficult cuts that would shatter the bed of an Atlas. The later 12" lathes never had the "hump". It was only on the 10" and very early 12" that were really just 10"-ers with a taller head and tailstock. As for variation in Craftsman part #s, they assigned 4 new part numbers if Atlas changed a washer somewhere in the lathe from metal to fiber, or any other minute change. It took 4 numbers as there was with & without QC, and 24 and 36" between centers. Also, maybe some more. ------- hi and a question [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "juan_chicoy" juan_chicoyx~xxyahoo.com Date: Fri Sep 25, 2009 9:32 am ((PDT)) hello juan here, i have been a guitarmaker/repair person for about 30 years and live in central coast california. share shop space with a harp builder, he uses my lathe and i use his mill. it is a craftsman atlas lathe from the late 40s, has a 36" bed, lots of tooling and is in real clean shape. i paid $300 for it about 15 years ago. don't use it much but real handy to have when you need it. the tailstock has a centering arbor with a ballbearing type cone in the middle of it to hold one end of the work (i know this is not the right term) the bearing is worn and the shield has come off of it. how does one replace the bearing? they have the bearing at the local bearing house. i have looked on the search function here but can't find it. i don't have a digital camera and admit to being computer challenged. thank you, juan ------- Re: hi and a question Posted by: "Michael Fagan" woodworker88x~xxgmail.com Date: Fri Sep 25, 2009 9:44 am ((PDT)) You're looking to replace the bearing on a ball bearing live center. Not all centers have replaceable bearings, but if yours does, it usually involves a cap which is threaded down into back of the bearing seat. On mine it requires a pin spanner to remove (identifiable by two blind holes on the centerline). It sounds like you might be better off just buying a new live center -- nice ones can be had for less than 30 dollars. ------- Introduction and a couple of questions [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "dwaynekleck" dwaynekleckx~xxyahoo.com Date: Thu Oct 8, 2009 7:14 am ((PDT)) Hi, my name is Dwayne and I am a new member to the group. I am 61 years old, retired from the US Navy, and am still working as a mechanic in a power plant in southern California. I bought a Craftsman lathe about a year ago. The old gentleman who owned it was having health problems and wanted to get rid of his toys so his wife didn't have to deal with it. It is a Model 101-07403/2077 (12 X 30). It came with a quick change, 3 and 4 jaw chucks, face plate and a Jacob's chuck. It is in good shape only it was really dirty when I got it. It still has the Craftsman motor on it. I bought a lot of tool bits etc from a local machinery salvage business and a milling attachment from E-bay. I joined the group to try and pick up some pointers and hopefully learn more about using my unit. I have built a sheet metal brake, slip roller and am currently working on a bead roller. Up next is an English wheel. All of this is in support of my 1920 model T roadster project. Here are my first two questions. What size dead center do I need for the head stock? I see there are long and short Morse tapers in the table. My Jacob's chuck and live center for the tail stock are clearly marked #2. Question 2 has anyone rented movies from http://smartflix.com/ ? If so how was the experience and did you find some great and some not so great? And a little side story. When I went to look at the lathe when the old guy rolled up the garage door there set an original not restored 1928 Chrysler roadster that his uncle bought in 1930. He ask me if I wanted to buy it but one old car at a time is enough. Besides my wife knows how a gun works. Thanks Dwayne ------- Re: Introduction and a couple of questions Posted by: "William Abernathy" williamx~xxinch.com Date: Thu Oct 8, 2009 8:23 am ((PDT)) #3 MT (short) works fine in the headstock. Get a soft one, so you can recut it as needed. Yes. I've rented a couple of welding videos from them. They deliver promptly, as promised. There was no problem with their service. My only complaint was that I didn't read the fine print on one of their DVDs. Turned out I was watching the first of a 2-part series, and all I saw was the safety checks and setup stuff, and none of the desired white-hot metal-on-metal welding action. I was disappointed, but it's not their fault I'm too dumb to read what's printed there on the screen. Good luck with your T. William ------- Re: Introduction and a couple of questions Posted by: "Michael Fagan" woodworker88x~xxgmail.com Date: Thu Oct 8, 2009 8:35 am ((PDT)) The Atlas 12" machines take a standard #3 in the headstock and #2 in the tailstock. Contrary to William's advice, I would get a hardened center, because if the headstock taper is clean and not burred, there should be no need to recut it, and it will last longer and be easier on the spindle and the work (it can't get dirt embedded in the surface like a soft one). ------- Re: Introduction and a couple of questions Posted by: "William Rutiser" wruyahoo05x~xxcomcast.net Date: Thu Oct 8, 2009 9:13 am ((PDT)) Your lathe has a Morse #3 taper in the headstock and a Morse #2 in the tailstock. It's common to have a #3 to #2 adapter sleeve to hold #2 tapers in the headstock. It's likely that such a sleeve was included with the lathe when it left the factory. Note that making a sleeve and center wouldn't be out of the question and would make an excellent learning experience in taper turning. Use your headstock and tailstock as gauges. Bill ------- Re: Introduction and a couple of questions Posted by: "jmartin957x~xxaol.com" Date: Thu Oct 8, 2009 9:29 am ((PDT)) Contrary to both sets of advice, I'd get a Morse #2 center for the headstock. Plus a Morse #3 to #2 reducing sleeve. Two advantages: the #2 centers are cheaper, and you can use them in the tailstock as well. With the sleeve, you can also use the other tailstock tooling -- such as drill chucks -- in the headstock, and make up any special tailstock tooling you might need. You can use it to clean up your tailstock center, which you will have to do on occasion. You might lose a very small bit of accuracy due to the sleeve, but I wouldn't worry at all about that. As to hardened vs. soft centers, I'd probably go with a soft center for the headstock. You don't get much wear on the live (headstock) center as it turns with the work. About the only time you'll get wear is when cutting tapers with an offset tailstock, which causes the work to rock on the center. Wear is minimal, though. The hardened centers are typically hardened just at the tip -- often, it's a piece of ball bearing steel or carbide inserted into a soft body. For the tailstock, you definitely want a hardened center. John Martin ------- Re: Introduction and a couple of questions Posted by: "JACK SIMS" JACK-BR549x~xxWORLDNET.ATT.NET Date: Thu Oct 8, 2009 10:20 am ((PDT)) One thing about advice, there is never a shortage of it [:-) Jack Sims ------- Re: Seeking Lead screw - Additional Help Asked [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "Russ Kepler" russx~xxkepler-eng.com Date: Sat Nov 14, 2009 11:27 am ((PST)) On Saturday 14 November 2009 12:01:37 ErnieA wrote: > I bought 3 - 6ft lengths of 3/4x8TPI Acme from Tacoma Screw (minimum quantity) to make a new lead screw. I don't particularly want to disassemble my lathe to measure the existing screw for the dimensions. Does anyone have the dimensions of the QC54 screw? Mine is a 1969 Atlas undermount cabinet model. I bought the parts catalogue and manual from Clausing only to find the assembly method for setting the clutch and such. No real pictures or statistics of the machine. My lead screw is worn badly for the first 16 inches but it still works well enough to make the new screw. Once made, I want to make two more per order. It will be a fun project once I get started. < The leadscrew is pretty simple - the headstock end basically floats lengthwise with a keyed shaft being driven by the QC output, coupled to the leadscrew through the clutch. The tailstock end holds the leadscrew in position lengthwise with a couple of thrust bearings. If you remove the whole bearing assembly from the tail of the bed and loosen a setscrew on the headstock (or maybe pull the shear pin?) and the leadscrew simply slides out of the apron. Anyway, the leadscrew is 49 5/8" OAL with a 7 1/4" section of unthreaded shaft on the headstock end and a 2" section turned to 1/2 on the tailstock end, threaded 1" of 1/2 fine thread (mine is 36 tpi, I think). There's a 1/4" shear pin 2" from the headstock end, and the tailstock end has a 7/8" diameter 3/16 "washer" so the thrust bearings aren't riding on the end of the thread. > Additionally: Is it better to disassemble the carriage to remove or can it be removed off the end of the bed in complete assembly? I'm guessing the gibs will need to be adjusted anyway and carriage removed in pieces and cleaned properly. But I wanted to do this after the new lead screw is made, then do it all at the same time. < All I'd do with the carriage (as long as everything is working) would be to loosen the gibs and flush with some oil, working the carriage back and forth, then reset things to be "slightly tight" at the tail end of the bed. No real need to take everything off unless there's something specific you want to check or fix. ------- Re: 12" Atlas Master Parts List now in files area [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "n9gtm" jim.n9gtmx~xxgmail.com Date: Sat Nov 21, 2009 7:45 am ((PST)) In atlas_craftsmanx~xxyahoogroups.com, "Daniel Nelson" wrote: > If anyone has 12" Atlas manual pages and can make a .pdf of the > parts list and a decent picture, I'll add to this resource Misc 12" atlas info: http://bridgeport.askmisterscience.com/atlas.htm PDF here: http://bridgeport.askmisterscience.com/Craftsman12Parts.pdf I didn't see a copyright date. Jim ------- Re: 12" Atlas Master Parts List now in files area Posted by: "Daniel Nelson" djnx~xxieee.org Date: Sat Nov 21, 2009 12:11 pm ((PST)) Hi Jim...I'd managed to get the 101.27430 and 101.27440 12" lathes in the original excel file! Let me know if you can't find them there...Thanks. Regards, Daniel J. Nelson ------- Re: 12" Atlas Master Parts List now in files area Posted by: "n9gtm" jim.n9gtmx~xxgmail.com Date: Sun Nov 22, 2009 12:58 am ((PST)) Thanks but I don't need them since I have the smaller 6x18 101.21400. I was just hoping they'd be of use to someone else. It looked like the PDF has more readable pictures of the parts but I didn't look at all the pix you posted so maybe not. I just remember the few Sears parts pix I looked at on their website being kind of hard to read. Of course I still grab this kind of stuff when it shows up just in case an Atlas 12" follows me home someday :-) Jim ------- Re: Fw: Lead Screw [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "catboat15x~xxaol.com" olewilly2000 Date: Tue Dec 1, 2009 12:32 pm ((PST)) As I remember the lead screw on the Atlas has several variations. There were two diameters supplied as sometime during the production it was found a larger diameter lead screw was needed. Two lengths depending on the length of the bed. The the question of length for the models with quick change gear was different than the lathes with loose change gears. The models with the loose change gears had a longer lead screw that went through a bearing on the left end to accept the last gear of whatever gear set was employed, while the lead screw for the QC models was a little shorter and fit into the QC box that was bolted onto the way or head stock. (I think that one also had a slip clutch which prevented damage to the works if you ran the cross slide into the head stock or some other kind of overload or crash. On the lathes with manual change gears the "safety" was the breaking up of the right hand bearing where the lead screw was held. It is fairly common to find a manual change gear Atlas with no bearing or a home built bearing on the right hand end of the lead screw. Then there is the absence or presence of a groove down the lead screw. The groove was not there in some models without a power cross feed. The best way to look for the lead screw that will fit your particular lathe is to get the parts list from Clausing (contact them by telephone) and get the parts list for your particular model which will have the proper part number to search for a replacement lead screw. I think also you can use the Sear's model number to bring up a parts list where you can find information on the lead screw along with a break down drawing of your lathe. Sears (at least the last time I looked) still has some parts for various Atlas model lathes. The last resort would be Ebay where the seller may or may not have a correct part number so if you buy an unknown part be sure to get some kind of arrangement so the "unknown" part does not fit your particular lathe you can return the part for refund or credit. ------- Re: wanted [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "David LeVine" dlevine144x~xxmyfairpoint.net Date: Tue Dec 22, 2009 7:45 pm ((PST)) Randy Bennell wrote: > Have you considered an electronic lead screw instead? > Check out the Yahoo ELS group. Just for information, by the time you get done you have a lathe that threads in BOTH Imperial and Metric, does multiple pass threading without operator interaction, and can save countless amounts of time and frustration (ever forget to withdraw the bit?). This will cost you $200-$300 (depending on how good a scrounger you are), but how much will a FULL set of change gears cost? David G. LeVine Nashua, NH 03060 ------- Cross feed dial [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "catboat15x~xxaol.com" olewilly2000 Date: Sun Dec 27, 2009 8:49 pm ((PST)) When I made a new dial for my six inch atlas I simply used a paper dial. What I did was to print out an enlarged scale on a cad program on the computer. Complete with numbers and long ticks for 100's and a bit shorter for the in-between marks. With a cad program you can do it any way your fancy requires, and then reduce it to the size to wrap around the dial so it fits exactly. I had made a whole new dial, so added a different arrangement than the set screw to hold it in place (a cam inside the dial). I turned the raw dial so my graduated strip fit exactly (zero to 100 touching). Glued it in place and coated the paper with several coats of a good marine spar varnish. I used that dial for many years until in my second most stupid moment of my life I sold that lathe. (If you had met my first wife you would know the first most stupid moment.) The only disadvantage was I lost some ability to retract the cross slide to accept the max diameter work unless I went in on an angle. ------- Re: Selling Craftsman 6" Lathe [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "Daniel Nelson" djnx~xxieee.org Date: Mon Mar 15, 2010 5:23 pm ((PDT)) On Mar 15, 2010, at 7:50 PM, c_h_a_r_t_n_y wrote: >> Whether you part it out of sell it whole is your desire. It brings >> much more in parts, but you have to list and ship all those things as >> well as name them. Good luck. -chart- Lance wrote: > I agree with Chart. You'd probably get 2 - 2.5 times the package price for all the parts especially if they are almost new. It would take a day to disassemble and clean the parts. Then take a couple pictures of each. Then find its Atlas part number from the diagram. Then write the eBay ad Then post it on eBay. Box it and pad it very well... cast iron is fragile; take it to the post office and get delivery confirmation; Subtract the eBay fees and the PayPal fees. Ask what is your time and aggravation worth? < I am in the process of parting out a 6" lathe. So far it has taken 282 auctions to sell 138 parts.....I'd guess 28+ hours. Just a data point and a FYI. Dan in Chandler, AZ ------- Re: need a part [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "Jon Elson" elsonx~xxpico-systems.com Date: Tue May 11, 2010 9:20 pm ((PDT)) dallashotrodparts wrote: > Well I have been on this group for a while. I actually use my 12x36 on a daily basis. I turn bushings, sleeves etc with a diameter of about 2" so no precision needed. However I have stripped some teeth off the gear that moves the main part left and right. The gear contacts the long strip of teeth along the bottom of the bed. Forgive me if I use the wrong terms. < By "main part" I assume you mean the carriage. The long gear is the carriage rack. > also the gear just behind that handle thats in an aluminum or pewter housing thing is also either broken or something. I know the housing is broken.. < Your carriage gearbox is broken. A common problem, and I think Clausing has run out of that part. They might have the gears, however. There has been a lot of discussion of making new castings for the gearbox-housing part. The housing is Zamak, and may have been a little under-designed, judging from how many people have this problem. Although, on my first Atlas lathe, it used to get loose, and I would tighten the 3 screws that held it on whenever I felt looseness in the carriage handwheel. It may be that continuing to use it with the screws loose put too much stress on one corner of the part, and that's why they break. Jon ------- Re: need a part Posted by: "Michael White" dallashotrodpartsx~xxyahoo.com Date: Wed May 12, 2010 2:57 am ((PDT)) Yes that sounds correct. I'm hoping that someone has something that will help me. I guess I may not be like many in that I use mine every day in a work related capacity. Michael White Dallas Hotrod Parts www.dallashotrodparts.com ------- Re: Gits oliers [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "PeterH" peterh5322x~xxrattlebrain.com Date: Sun May 30, 2010 10:13 pm ((PDT)) On May 30, 2010, at 9:36 PM, Michael Fagan wrote: > I don't know what kind of oiler you were looking at but my 618 uses > these http://www.mcmaster.com/#1232k12/=7bmt3m > They are about 2 bucks each ... The drive-in shoulder Gits oilers have been completely redesigned to use no milled brass parts. And usually no brass, period. Most are now precision formed steel. ------- Re: crossfeed nut [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "David Beierl" dbeierlx~xxattglobal.net Date: Mon Jul 26, 2010 7:33 pm ((PDT)) At 09:13 PM 7/26/2010 Monday, warrengrant wrote: >I would like to know the thread for a 618 cross feed nut. I think >it is the M6-19A. It's 3/8-10 Acme -- .100 advance per turn. Beware -- the specification for Acme threads changed in the ?early '70s? and a new feed screw will not enter into an original nut, nor will a new nut fit an old screw properly (but will thread on, I believe). Also note that when I bought a feed screw from Clausing 10-12 years ago, and subsequently the new nut with it, the finish on the threading of the screw was very rough. I really should have sent it back. 'Tany rate, I now have more backlash (.015 or so) with the new one than with the old -- Ima y put the old one back. As I said, I should have sent it back, it really looked bad. I just didn't have enough confidence in my own judgment at the time. But I hope it was a sample defect, not a general condition. It seems to have worn much smoother -- I no longer see a thick suspension of brass particles in oil every time I oil the screw. Yours, David Beierl -- Providence RI USA Atlas 618 6"/3" lathe ca. 1941, shiny-new Taig mill. ------- Re: power feed no work [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "David Beierl" dbeierlx~xxattglobal.net Date: Sat Jul 31, 2010 10:05 pm ((PDT)) On Sat, Jul 31, 2010, baker519x~xxatt.net wrote: > Lead screw was fine. Took tailstock off, removed lead screw end bearing, and slid carriage off. Removed half nut assembly. Half nut was damaged (smashed). Looking for half nut assembly. Am checking ebay and Sears parts. The Sears 101 half nut is the same as the 618. Thank you for your assistance. < Buying from Clausing will be (likely a lot) cheaper than from Sears. If you get new M6-12A half nuts from Clausing you will have to also get a new M6-13A guide, as the construction of the nuts was beefed up and won't fit the older guide. Been there, done that. Yours, David Beierl -- Providence RI USA Atlas 618 6"/3" lathe ca. 1941, shiny-new Taig mill. ------- Re: atlas part [atlas_craftsman] Posted by: "Raymond" jwreyx~xxusa.net Date: Mon Aug 2, 2010 9:24 pm ((PDT)) "emausmark" wrote: > I need a bolt and nut that goes through the quad bracket through the bushing and attaches one of the gears to the gear assembly. The part number is 9-69a? I think...I have a TH54 and the serial number is 63162. Any ideas where I might get one, or can a stove bolt be used for this going through the bracket and bushing? thanks Mark < These can be found on Ebay frequently as part of a handful of miscellaneous gear parts, typically selling for 10 bucks or so for the handful. But you have a lathe! Use the lathe to make its own replacement parts! You should be able to use a 3/8 carriage bolt. Flatten the top of the head by facing, then reduce the diameter of the head to make it fit the slots in the bracket, or "banjo" as it is often called. The key is the flattened head which should not protrude beyond the backside of the bracket. You don't need power feed to satisfactorily modify the head of a carriage bolt for this! Raymond -------